biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
I'm thinking my propane torch will cut that in half!
Gear D-nail thread
- Thread starter PhotoRider
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I'm thinking my propane torch will cut that in half!
Ti and SiC should both heat up faster than quartz.
biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
That's flippin amazing... guess I can drop the propane and go with a smaller butane torch now!
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
@ensabbahnur
I have the base that precedes the slim:
I go base > small locking collar > SiC Halo > locking nut.
Almost all of the base of the Halo is exposed.
Just one spot (small, single flame); you have to move the torch around to get all of the Halo.
SiC has killer thermal transfer properties though so it might be possible to torch the crap out of just one spot and have fairly even Halo temps? (I've never tried just staying in one spot).
I think my torch is kaput.
The piezo igniter has been broken forever too.
I have the base that precedes the slim:
I go base > small locking collar > SiC Halo > locking nut.
Almost all of the base of the Halo is exposed.
Just one spot (small, single flame); you have to move the torch around to get all of the Halo.
SiC has killer thermal transfer properties though so it might be possible to torch the crap out of just one spot and have fairly even Halo temps? (I've never tried just staying in one spot).
I think my torch is kaput.
The piezo igniter has been broken forever too.
Man you guys weren't kidding about SiC being easier to clean than quartz, and I enjoy the flavor more. I'm really blown away with it right now!
I got the dnail dish and carb cap with dabber...that thing heats up really fast including the handle/fork end. Anyone make wood handles threaded for the cap? Might prefer to use a glass dabber, also to not scratch the dish (or is that not a concern?)
Also tried wrapping some bee line hemp wick around the handle, it felt good but quickly unwound since it was just wrapped around haha, anyone made something like that permanent?
I got the dnail dish and carb cap with dabber...that thing heats up really fast including the handle/fork end. Anyone make wood handles threaded for the cap? Might prefer to use a glass dabber, also to not scratch the dish (or is that not a concern?)
Also tried wrapping some bee line hemp wick around the handle, it felt good but quickly unwound since it was just wrapped around haha, anyone made something like that permanent?
ensabbahnur
Hash Vacuum
I use a much fatter dabber that threads into the cap and takes longer to heat up, others use a Qtip with the cotton pulled or just a little left on it, others also hemp wrap and tie it off.
SIC is ridiculously durable and can take pretty much anything you'll be able to throw at it so long as you don't drop it.
Haha just tried the qtip, too funny but also effective! The answer was right in front of me...
biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
Which dabber do you use? Are the threads fairly universal? Would NV dab tools fit?
For some reason my d-nail dabber does not get hot whatsoever unless I forget about it and leave it sitting on there for a while. My old NV Ti Showercap was a completely different thing....scorching!
I just asked the same question quite recently...if you only go back some pages you'll probably find many more answers.
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
Both Highly Educated and CCA710 dabbers have the same thread size/pitch.
ensabbahnur
Hash Vacuum
dnail tools seem to be threaded like Highly Educated tools, I just grabbed a random ti stick where the body was much fatter then the threaded part, the added mass lets it soak a lot more heat but makes it unbalanced when its on the nail if you're free holding the rig.
edit @alittledabwilldoya' really? none of my 5 CCA dabbers fit any of my dnail or HE caps, nor vice versa. Matter of fact I sometimes use the CCA dabbers specifically because they don't fit right and have much less surface contact on the threads.....but they are definitely cross threaded
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
Hmmm, I had only tried adding the CCA's finger saver to D-Nails dabber and that mated well.
Trying CCA's dabber into D-Nail's cap isn't so good, partial thread.
So, no go on CCA / D-Nail dabber; apologies.
lazylathe
Almost there...
ensabbahnur
Hash Vacuum
lazylathe
Almost there...
High temp torch with laser temp so you don't overheat the nail! LOL!
biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
Finally discovered a negative to my Dnail SiC halo..... it causes me to actually drool way too often into my glass piece! Usually occurs about halfway into the hit, sometimes a little sooner. I HATE the feeling, and about 50% of the time I plow through it and cringe, and the other 50% of the time I prematurely stop the hit. Surely depends on the strain, terp content, etc. but just something i've noticed over the last little while. But that's the only negative, everything else is pretty damn perfect. #1stWorldSiChaloProblems 
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
... @biohacker ... @ensabbahnur ...
I figured out the clicking! I turned my 2 alarms back on (to value 2 as opposed to 0), and as soon as it went over temp, it clicked as it turned on "sub1" and "sub2", which I assume are internal mechanical relays inside the Omron ... at any rate, these are the "auxiliary outputs", and they are activated by alarm 1 and 2 respectively. There is, however, nothing hooked up to sub1 and sub2 internally. It is using Out1 which is the default out that triggers the internal zero-crossing SSR for managing the AC voltage provided to the coil. If you turn off the alarms (set the values to 0), then the sub1/sub2 won't be triggered, and the clicking will be gone
Hope that helps everyone with these out ... because, as I thought I remembered, it did initially click; I think this is actually why I sought out how to turn off the alarms if I remember correctly (thought it couldn't hurt ... why would this be turning on if it's not doing anything ... shouldn't have "out1", "sub1", and "sub2" illuminating ... we just need "out1")
Thanks @JCat for figuring out it... in a way you are correct @ensabbahnur the noises you are hearing are indeed contacts being opened or closed, but they are auxiliary outputs that have nothing to do with e-nail functionality, so they can be deactivated and your e-nail should quiet down.
All this talk about e-nail guts has me jonesing to build a new box using one of those E5CC controllers. Might be time to put some things together soon so I can get a second e-nail setup going.
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It has been a long time since I've delved into this thread and have gone back to review some older post and the great discussion between myself and some members about the merits of heat sinks vs fast-response feedback loops. I've seen many of the heat-sink camp using Newvape parts in combination with SiC Halo's as far back as page 18 of this thread. I see that Newvape offers both "E-nail" and "Flowerpot" SiC/Halo dishes to adapt 20mm barrel coils onto an SiC dish. I'm interested in mashing up some of their parts with my D-Nail Slim Series nail and SiC dish (and soon to be Sapphire dish as well).
I am not interested in vaporizing flower in the same glass rig I use to vaporize oil and hope that I don't have to give up my D-nail 14mm joint or Slim series heat-dissipating base, so I'm wondering if any of the NewVape parts can attach to my existing base. I am interested in dabbing on a boat, and thought back to the barrel coil and heat shield adapter, wondering if that might help with more stable temperatures in a windy environment. So, on to NewVape's website- not sure if this is @NewVape710 or @NewVape420 territory here....
Under "Enails" they list a "D-Nail Wrap-Around Post for 20mm Enail Coils (3081)"
They also have the "FlowerPot 20mm Coil Cover (3061)"
And under Flowerpot Parts, I see the "D-Nail Wrap-Around Post for 20mm Coils (3075)" That one looks like it has a thicker threading underneath.. and no chance of working with an e-nail.
Could anyone that's using any of these NewVape pieces in combination with their D-Nail pieces post up some photos so I can see if anything might fit together? I am really not interested in swapping out the perfectly-fitting, heat dissipating, elegant and compact design of the Slim series
For a decidedly old school three-fitting "universal" gigantic piece-tipping heatsink.
Is there any way for these parts to get along?
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The Flowerpot isn't designed to sit on the rig like a traditional enail, it's designed to sit on a stand when not in use.
The FP assembly has a coil nut which sits on the bowl. I don't believe you could still use the slim series base in conjunction with those other parts as the enail dropdown also uses that same threading as the coil nut I believe.
The FP assembly has a coil nut which sits on the bowl. I don't believe you could still use the slim series base in conjunction with those other parts as the enail dropdown also uses that same threading as the coil nut I believe.
The flowerpot bowl becomes your base and the dnail halo wrap-around head sits atop. I use different glass for my flower and oil and just move the bowl from piece to piece. The only dnail parts that will be used in the FP setup is the halo and carb cap. It's a fun marriage 
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
You can’t use any of the NV parts on the slim base. If you just an enail get 3081 dnail wraparound for enail, 3061 coil cover, and 2586 14/18mm enail post.
In all honesty I would get the FP set though that way you vape flower if you want.
3085 fp wraparound for dnail 20mm post size but 16mm thread size), 3061 coil cover, 9174 16mm coil nut, and a bowl of your choice.
For just dabbing I like 3013 14mm stubby bowl. For vaping flower get a pan/shovelhead bowl with the correct post size or one of the standard handle bowls.
In all honesty I would get the FP set though that way you vape flower if you want.
3085 fp wraparound for dnail 20mm post size but 16mm thread size), 3061 coil cover, 9174 16mm coil nut, and a bowl of your choice.
For just dabbing I like 3013 14mm stubby bowl. For vaping flower get a pan/shovelhead bowl with the correct post size or one of the standard handle bowls.
what temps do you run with the flowerpot WA sic to get proper dabs since its a little different than just the halo?The flowerpot bowl becomes your base and the dnail halo wrap-around head sits atop. I use different glass for my flower and oil and just move the bowl from piece to piece. The only dnail parts that will be used in the FP setup is the halo and carb cap. It's a fun marriage
I set my PID to 580F, and the dish temps were around 480ish using a type-k thermocouple.
StormyPinkness
Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
I pre-heat my dabber and I usually wait until the dish get's back up to temp before doing a dab. I was thinking about the uptemp stuff that I've seen posts about and hit it right after I took the dabber off as it was heating back up. I definitely noticed a difference, I think I'm going to start trying it out more seriously. My dish drops about 15-20 degrees heating up my dabber, I'll have to go read up on it and see how far they drop it. If it's as easy as turning it off and on again why the hell not.