Of course. Designs like you're referencing would fire more evenly than one with the neck coming out of the side, but still probably slightly less evenly than a perfectly straight neck coming out of the top. Balancing ergonomics and function is tricky business!
Hookah-style bubbler with removable mouthpiece trials
.A 18mm MP joint offsets the bubbler much better than a 14mm joint IMO.
@EverythingsHazy thanks for this! Stoked about the pillar.
A thought though: there's a glass ring at the top of the pillars on all the original sovereignties that, as far as I can tell, serves to combine the outflow of all the pillars into one while limiting the water's upward trajectory.
I'm thinking this piece would have a major effect on, and is thus pretty important to, the exchange of water going up and down between the pillars. I notice that the water entering the top chamber on the real pillars looks very different than it does on the one function video we've got so far. You don't see six individual jets of water shooting up into the top chamber on the real sovereigntys.
Also, I just stumbled on this. Look's like we're not the first one making a pillar perc clone:
http://www.badassglass.com/showerhead-to-5-arm-pillars-scientific-glass-water-pipe.html
How do we think this design stacks up? Can we take away anything from it? It looks like they've got that disc at the top of the pillars like the original, as well as a small chamber between the pillars and disc, again like the original. I think our perc looks better though. My only other thought: is there any room in this current design for a splash guard? Looks like this thing stacks pretty high into the top chamber on hard clears (depending on water level), and the originals all have (because they need) a splash guard. I've never really seen one on the style of bubbler we're shooting for, but... maybe there's a way? What do people think?
Maybe the GB-186 you're referring to fires more evenly than mine does. That being said, on a purely theoretical level, the vapor/water are going to tend to take the path of least resistance towards where they're being sucked to. In the attached picture, the green path is a path of lesser resistance compared to the red path, so, theoretically, the perc holes on the side of the green path should fire more frequently, even if it's not visibly noticeable. Whether this leads to a difference in the quality of diffusion I can't say.
Helping out @blankrider with some photo-sketches of @hd_rider 's idea of a hookah-style bubbler design and inputs of other members
Hookah-style bubbler with removable mouthpiece trials
I think if you bulk ordered 10 you might get one that wasn't broken on arrival. That would need to have a custom cut Styrofoam shipping case and 3 layers of the big bubble wrap, to even have a chance at surviving more than 50% of the time in shipping.They look awesome,
What is the can's bore size you guys are aiming for?
Reminds me of the bubbler that PV was working on that never came to fruition.
That long MP looks silly.
I'm pretty sure the suction is more of a funnel shape into the neck from the can. If you draw ridiculously slowly, and with vaporizer on it,. perhaps you could get a slanted perc with a shorter can to bubble from one side more than the other. especially if the cuts in the perc are not all identical, but it everything is pretty straight, it should work fine. If the neck connection went into the can and turned down, it would pull up more from that side. But the way it is in currently, you get about an inch or so of an air funnel, running along the top of the can.Maybe the GB-186 you're referring to fires more evenly than mine does. That being said, on a purely theoretical level, the vapor/water are going to tend to take the path of least resistance towards where they're being sucked to. In the attached picture, the green path is a path of lesser resistance compared to the red path, so, theoretically, the perc holes on the side of the green path should fire more frequently, even if it's not visibly noticeable. Whether this leads to a difference in the quality of diffusion I can't say.
Helping out @blankrider with some photo-sketches of @hd_rider 's idea of a hookah-style bubbler design and inputs of other members
Hookah-style bubbler with removable mouthpiece trials
Ugh, a closed mouthpiece = insta no-buy from me.
I also like the look of the percs firing up like that, but I personally would rather prioritize function over looking cool. This is the Sovereignty pillar design we're working with here. One of the most highly acclaimed and sought after perc designs on the market, which starts at $1100. It's known for delivering amazing flavor and is a highly developed, tuned and refined piece that everyone agrees works incredibly well. I'm sure the people at sovereignty also thought that the exposed pillars looked cool, but they then went and added that disc for a reason. Those discs cost money to produce. They don't add much to the aesthetic, and if they weren't important to the function they wouldn't be there. If we are trying to recreate the experience of using such a piece then I think it would be foolish to change their design, without ever getting to try it for ourselves, based on how it looks. I, for one, feel very strongly that that small little addition is an absolute necessity to a pillar recreation.
Ugh, a closed mouthpiece = insta no-buy from me.
They add unnecessary drag, and I've found all the closed mouthpiece rigs I've had to be more awkward than my flared ones.
AND they have to make them all look so penis-ey
Yeah, mine does that too. I think I chose my words poorly earlier when I said, "on very slow draws the perc noticeably favors firing the holes on the side of the neck." "Very slow draws" was an understatement which may have led to confusion here. If I pull on it extremely softly with the intent of attempting to pull through single bubbles or only 2-3 bubbles at a time, it'll almost always fire on mine on the side of the neckpiece. I still think this is simply the air/vapor taking the path of least resistance. If I pull hard enough so where it's a very slow draw yet a reasonable draw for anyone actually using the pipe, it appears to fire evenly around the perc. I still suspect it's firing slightly more on the side of the mouthpiece, but this isn't visibly noticeable.
Reminds me of the bubbler that PV was working on that never came to fruition.
That long MP looks silly.
Just personal opinion I'd say either a mp like this or a straight one with no flare and no constrictions would be ideal; I have an attachable MP that is just a worked kind of straight / bent neck MP and honestly it works great, and you don't have issues with the flare being too large or small.@alltoreup @MuushuPork is this the type of mouthpiece you are interested in?
Other members please like this photo if you are interested in this style mouthpiece since it was not one of the options
This is exactly what I want.@alltoreup @MuushuPork is this the type of mouthpiece you are interested in?
Other members please like this photo if you are interested in this style mouthpiece since it was not one of the options
I don't mean to be argumentative, but I think there's more going on here than just a splash guard. For starters, many of the sovereignty versions (the newer ones in fact) actually have a dedicated splashguard above that ring.The reason for the flared mouthpieces is that people here got up in arms over some poll where like 6 people deemed flared mouthpieces and bent necks the majority preference on here.The one for the gb-186 is a really good mouthpiece, and if it would just be made a bit smaller it would probably be the best option for people with all different sized mouths.
As for the pillars, this is a closeup of the little glass section some of you have been mentioning. It is nothing more than a splash-guard for the water jets to crash into. No additional percolation. I think it would be a more noticeable difference if the neck came from the top, as a hard draw could cause the water to get sucked up into your mouth, but if you draw hard with the prototype, it just crashes into the top of the can, which is actually beneficial for all those who use cranberry extract as well, since it allows the entire top section to be rinsed and emptied of vapor on the draw if you pull hard enough. It looks like some water would pool around the top section and not be able to flow back down the pillars as well... Not sure tho. One thing it would do negatively to the current design, is take away from the height of the pillar, since it's not just the glass ring, but a dropdown section as well. If anything, the pillars should probably be the same height, or a little taller. I suggested a 1-2cm pillar height increase if possible. I had shown Steven a close up of how the pillar looked in the original design, and he said his guys were going to try their best to replicate it. Not sure if a perfect replica is beyond their skill level at this point, but he did see the original, and produced what he did after a couple tries.
***Edit***
This is a still shot from a video of someone doing a water only draw before taking a hit, off an official Sovereignty Pillar. Note how high the water just shoots up in the top section (it hits the top). It is just one thick jet, instead of 8 individual ones in a ring, which is mostly aesthetic.
Also, for the current FC-186, with a little less water, and a loaded vape attached, there would be a lot less geyser action going on than there is in the water test video.
