Cosmic Xtractor
- Thread starter FearAndLawyering
- Start date
That's a great deal. Cheaper than the Blue Mahoe I ordered that arrived this morning! I'll just assume those are inferior in some way. :-) Comparison is the thief of joy, after all.
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
Update post - in between batches right now, I bought some more parts and stuff to try to improve a few issues.
Oven screen - the rig I built for forming these was made out of wood, it worked great for about a dozen or so and then lost its shape. I have metal stuff coming over the next few days to re-do it. I also got an arbor press to help with consistency.
RDA Base - im not happy with the new ones I got / wont be buying any more of them. I have another box of RDAs to try coming from china, hopefully in the next week or so (ordered 3 weeks ago, I think they're in customs now).
in general things are going slow with some family issues popping up as well, hoping things settle down after the holidays
Oven screen - the rig I built for forming these was made out of wood, it worked great for about a dozen or so and then lost its shape. I have metal stuff coming over the next few days to re-do it. I also got an arbor press to help with consistency.
RDA Base - im not happy with the new ones I got / wont be buying any more of them. I have another box of RDAs to try coming from china, hopefully in the next week or so (ordered 3 weeks ago, I think they're in customs now).
in general things are going slow with some family issues popping up as well, hoping things settle down after the holidays
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
new batch finished up -
lighting isnt great, its been cold and dark lately lol.
top row - purpleheart, redheart, blue mahoe x4, red canarywood
bottom row - chechen, zebrawood, chechen x3, marblewood
lighting isnt great, its been cold and dark lately lol.
top row - purpleheart, redheart, blue mahoe x4, red canarywood
bottom row - chechen, zebrawood, chechen x3, marblewood
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
go now!
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
3l3tric
TM2 PH and Tiodw Plus 2.0 cured my VAS
Apologies if this isn't really the purpose of this thread, but I've been researching this heater style for another DIY project I'm currently in the planning phase for, and I'm curious where one would source the various parts required, in particular a good 510 deck and the ceramic plate used to separate the halves of the mesh. In your recent update post you mentioned switching suppliers for the build decks; Do these new decks have ceramic insulators like the most updated splinter decks, or are they more traditional RDA decks? For the ceramic plate, is this something that would need to be special ordered in bulk batches, or could you feasibly obtain a mass-produced version easily?
Thanks for your help, and best of luck with continued production. The units I've seen throughout the thread keep looking better and better!
Thanks for your help, and best of luck with continued production. The units I've seen throughout the thread keep looking better and better!
Vumo
Active Member
In previous versions of the Splinter RBT used Mica to separate the mesh instead of ceramic plate. You can get Mica sheets really cheap on eBay. I haven't found a place to buy the ceramic plates.
3l3tric
TM2 PH and Tiodw Plus 2.0 cured my VAS
Good point, I'd noticed that in a couple pics/vids. Are there any disadvantages to using Mica? According to wikipedia it seems to be strong enough at the temp range we'll be using it that it shouldn't pose problems, but this is I think the only time I've ever heard of it being used in a vape. I'd hoped somehow the ceramic plates were available somewhere, but it seems like they must be something that would have to be custom ordered in bulk the more I research them.
The tube itself is just standard borosilicate glass and the mesh 304, correct? I was considering trying to use fused quartz for the heater cover in my build but if glass will withstand the temps just fine I may go that route for cost effectiveness. Not sure if there's anything special to look out for when looking for the mesh, aside from making sure I get a fair bit of it (those zigzags really hide just how long these mesh strands are!)
(Also if info on the splinter heaters is covered in depth somewhere else feel free to direct me there, digging through the old splinter threads hasn't been productive so far but I'm sure I'm just bad at searching.)
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
The Vapman also uses mica. The issue is potentially with mica dust. As long as it’s a solid piece without exposed areas which can crumble its safe.
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
i use the microwave mica sheets. its kinda looks and feels like a piece of cardboard but it holds up to heat
i’m using 316 ss mesh 26
some dimensions:
glass overall - 55mm
19/22mm joint
mesh - 170mm x 15mm
insulator - 16mm x 38mm
mesh accordian length 47mm
and i made this for folding the mesh -
i’m using 316 ss mesh 26
some dimensions:
glass overall - 55mm
19/22mm joint
mesh - 170mm x 15mm
insulator - 16mm x 38mm
mesh accordian length 47mm
and i made this for folding the mesh -
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Note that in early Zions, the insulator was a glass slab. I preferred that over the mica plate I got in my second Zion, as it created more of a heat reservoir effect due to the higher thermal conductivity coefficient of glass. But Ryan deemed that less efficient, as indeed you can see it as a power robber instead.
But to me the reservoir effect kinda smoothed the temperature and made it even more easier to use in power mode (the Zion is technically more in voltage mode but in practice it's similar enough to a mod in VW mode) And the beauty of RBT heaters is precisely to have managed to create something easily usable in power mode, slow to get rolling but with high inertia like a freight train.
But to me the reservoir effect kinda smoothed the temperature and made it even more easier to use in power mode (the Zion is technically more in voltage mode but in practice it's similar enough to a mod in VW mode) And the beauty of RBT heaters is precisely to have managed to create something easily usable in power mode, slow to get rolling but with high inertia like a freight train.
Franco
is (most likely) vaping
This +1000
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I am not really that familiar with the structute of RBT HSA,but there is plenty of all shapes and sizes ceramic insulator plates (alumina oxide) on aliexpress. Might be better than mica or glass. I am pretty sure customization is also possible ,if you buy in bulk.
www.aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
4.95US $ |To-220/247/264 Aluminium Oxideceramic Plate Socketed Thermal Insulation Ceramic Heat Dissipation Ceramic Plate Only (with Hole) - Air Conditioner Parts - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
1.0US $ |Insulation And Heat Dissipation Ceramic Wafer 95% Alumina High Temperature Resistant And Corrosion Resistant Ceramic Substrate - Flanges - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
3l3tric
TM2 PH and Tiodw Plus 2.0 cured my VAS
My, that's a lot of bump keys!
Reminds me of a certain other internet lawyer I know...
Jokes aside, thanks for all your info! This will definitely be helpful as I go forward, and I really appreciate you taking the time to share. Do you happen to have a measurement for the inner diameter of the glass tube where the heater sits? I see the 19/22 measurement for the joint itself but I'm curious how much width clearance the heater itself needs (for instance, if you were to house the heater directly inside a male GonG connector instead. I'd imagine something like a 24/29 or 24/40 should be sufficient.)
Great find! From what I could tell, the big advantage of the RBT ceramic plates was their shaping. They had a bit of taper towards the top so they could fit a bit further into the glass sleeve than a totally flat piece, while still sealing between the two halves. For other designs, though, a totally flat plate should work perfectly.I am not really that familiar with the structute of RBT HSA,but there is plenty of all shapes and sizes ceramic insulator plates (alumina oxide) on aliexpress. Might be better than mica or glass. I am pretty sure customization is also possible ,if you buy in bulk.
4.95US $ |To-220/247/264 Aluminium Oxideceramic Plate Socketed Thermal Insulation Ceramic Heat Dissipation Ceramic Plate Only (with Hole) - Air Conditioner Parts - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
are the ceramic plates brittle? i would not want to add an extra potential breaking part. especially in the wood oven ones. been curious about wood as an insulator
19/22 glass width - it varies by manufacturer and piece but the 15mm heater width should fit inside the glass
————
mini update - I ordered a bunch of sensors and stuff from a robotics place in china. i’ve noticed the burnin process i do, isn’t really enough. the heater continues to settle in during the first week of use. it can be annoying and confusing to manage if you are new to the devices. so im making a rig to simulate that week of use on the device. and i’m making a thermal camera I can use to calibrate the heaters and show me if they’re running even.
also looking to get into glass work and cooling stems if i can find the right kiln / right price
19/22 glass width - it varies by manufacturer and piece but the 15mm heater width should fit inside the glass
————
mini update - I ordered a bunch of sensors and stuff from a robotics place in china. i’ve noticed the burnin process i do, isn’t really enough. the heater continues to settle in during the first week of use. it can be annoying and confusing to manage if you are new to the devices. so im making a rig to simulate that week of use on the device. and i’m making a thermal camera I can use to calibrate the heaters and show me if they’re running even.
also looking to get into glass work and cooling stems if i can find the right kiln / right price
Usually Silica (SiO2) with minor trace elements.
You can get semiconductor grade 99.99% purity; it just costs more.
Alumina is 9 MOHS so it would be somewhat brittle due to the extreme hardness. The strength depends on the type of forces exerted but hard materials usually snap rather than bend.
LooseCucumber
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I've been using my X for about a week now. First, it looks really nice for B stock, maybe my expectations were lower bc Fear is still perfecting things but it does not lack in appearance. Also a pleasant surprise: the vape can be used on the stand. Until I received mine I thought it was an organizational method but screwing both into the stand allows stationary function, cool! Minor complaint here is how the 510 pin for the mod (on the stand) is mounted, means the mod display faces away from the atty, which makes reading the display difficult (if that makes sense).
Onto performance, this vape has ooomph! I've been using my Splinter (v2 not Z) alot lately and the X is capable of stronger hits (IMO), which is saying something bc I have enjoyed RBT performance. It does hotspot but I stir the basket constantly. I'd encourage you guys to support Fear, I'm happy with what I received. I did receive my P228 with my X TCR profile set to 70W, which I thought seemed high. Well, that first bowl combusted into next week, but I iso'd everything and hooked up my mod to my PC and have it set to 40W now and it's working well. A step below a Tinymight and not as easy to use, but no shame in that. Really liking it thus far
Onto performance, this vape has ooomph! I've been using my Splinter (v2 not Z) alot lately and the X is capable of stronger hits (IMO), which is saying something bc I have enjoyed RBT performance. It does hotspot but I stir the basket constantly. I'd encourage you guys to support Fear, I'm happy with what I received. I did receive my P228 with my X TCR profile set to 70W, which I thought seemed high. Well, that first bowl combusted into next week, but I iso'd everything and hooked up my mod to my PC and have it set to 40W now and it's working well. A step below a Tinymight and not as easy to use, but no shame in that. Really liking it thus far
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
sorry, I need to make a guide or something but it sounds like your settings aren't quite right
in temp control mode the wattage is the speed of the heat up. picture a triangle where the sides are resistance, TCR and temperature. these all combine into your final real temperature. probably your locked resistance is too high. what you'll want to do is unscrew the cosmic from the mod, turn the mod on, screw the cosmic on (making sure not to hit the fire button). and the live resistance shown on the screen is going to be your cold resistance.
if you switch it on or off the base, you will need to set a new resistance (the base adds some)
once its dialed in, it should be easier to use. 2 clicks to start autofire and heat up in about 2 seconds @ 70W. Ive rolled it back on mine personally to 65W and I'm going to update the config to reflect that. I'm also going to do a 2nd profile for mod+base to make it easier
im running locked cold resistance, 65W, 358F, 112 TCR and getting near combustion... right where I want it. coffee brown. but a more conservative 90-100 TCR if you're looking for flavor
in temp control mode the wattage is the speed of the heat up. picture a triangle where the sides are resistance, TCR and temperature. these all combine into your final real temperature. probably your locked resistance is too high. what you'll want to do is unscrew the cosmic from the mod, turn the mod on, screw the cosmic on (making sure not to hit the fire button). and the live resistance shown on the screen is going to be your cold resistance.
if you switch it on or off the base, you will need to set a new resistance (the base adds some)
once its dialed in, it should be easier to use. 2 clicks to start autofire and heat up in about 2 seconds @ 70W. Ive rolled it back on mine personally to 65W and I'm going to update the config to reflect that. I'm also going to do a 2nd profile for mod+base to make it easier
im running locked cold resistance, 65W, 358F, 112 TCR and getting near combustion... right where I want it. coffee brown. but a more conservative 90-100 TCR if you're looking for flavor
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