Concentrates for Noobs - Q&A

[amberevil]

@DieHard is right about that 200 dollars on a vac set up, no matter what soulvent. Closed loop seems awsome (reusable soulvent) but ive never done it. Just got a pretty big Pyrex extraction tube

Right now im trying to figure out what screens to buy from 316twholesale.com. Artsain, regular, 10u, 20u, 25u, 50u, or some kind of combination. Also a 4"x4" would just make it under my hose clamp, is that good or do i want the little extra room from a 5"x5". Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DieHard]

@DieHard is right about that 200 dollars on a vac set up, no matter what soulvent. Closed loop seems awsome (reusable soulvent) but ive never done it. Just got a pretty big Pyrex extraction tube

Right now im trying to figure out what screens to buy from 316twholesale.com. Artsain, regular, 10u, 20u, 25u, 50u, or some kind of combination. Also a 4"x4" would just make it under my hose clamp, is that good or do i want the little extra room from a 5"x5". Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am using the 25u. But I have used the Artisan 20u as well. The 10u created too much back pressure for my liking. IMO you want the screen to come out the back of the clamp at least a little bit to help prevent blowout or "blow-around". Go with a bigger one and trim off most of the excess to prevent oil from "wicking" into the screen past the clamp to eliminate waste.

 

[PoopMachine]

So what is everyone using for purging? I havent decided what medium I want to go with. Ill probably give KE and butane a go initially but my goal is to work my way into a closed loop system of some sort. I was leaning towards CO2 there purely for the safety factor.

Id like to be able to go a couple of ounces at the time and work up to doing a pound at a time.

 

[herbivore21]

Hey guys... Im ready to get into extraction for larger scale production. Nothing crazy, just personal but Ive been doing my stuff with a tube, blasting it with butane and then without a purge oven, have been repeatedly purging with grain alcohol and boiling it down.

I want to mechanize some of this... I looked at the "Extract into a thermos" method and that looks promising but Id like to see what the rest of you guys are doing. Id like to even have a closed loop system but there are so many choices, I just dont know what to get to get started so Im turning to my FC brothers to nudge me in the right direction. I figure there has to be a grassroots extraction community, I just dont know where that might be.

Hey brother,

You can make incredible shatter with any solvent, but contrary to my main man @DieHard I find the best tek for my purposes and situations is to use 2 solvents. ISO for the initial extraction and ethanol only for winterizing after. My reason for this is that ISO is so cheap compared to ethanol (which is hard to get here and expensive as fuck due to tax regulations).

Still @DieHard is onto a key factor to consider with multiple solvents which is that if your tek is not immaculate, you are gonna get more waste the more solvents you use due to multiple sloppy purges. Still, this loss can be almost entirely/entirely mitigated with super tight, lab style methodology and consistency.

As an aside: If you can get ethanol at reasonable prices, use it! Quickest way to fantastic stuff without using some much more dangerous solvents. Ethanol is extremely conducive to large scale production for yourself and beyond because it allows comparatively very long washes - useful for lots of material in one large jar/vessel for the wash.

Use a vac for the surest purge (I have near perfected purging at atmospheric pressures with my current tech, but still it is a process which requires such tight controls and application of methodology that it is really beyond reasonable for most without overpurging/underpurging and the associated waste/low quality), drop me a PM if you get a vac and I'll help you out with some tailored protips specific to your choice of tek and region.

I am actually finding that with the right tek (my latest improvements) I can sometimes get a perfect absolute using QWISO alone though. My experiments have reliably shown for a while now that my QWISO extractions can pull out NO observable wax when redissolved in ethanol and frozen for a week (any of you who winterize understand that this is gonna give those waxes nowhere to hide in the solution). However ISO strips buds bare (including chlorophyll and wax and fats!) super quick and for many reasons requires me to apply a level of rigor in application that could not be reasonably expected from non-scientists.

I'll post up a pic of my latest QWISO only absolute soon. However for now and to compare later; look at the blue cheese in my avatar, which is the lowest standard of my work using QWISO then ethanol (made with the worst starting material I've applied my current tek to, very immature smaller nugs, not cured, wet, hardly any visible trichs).

Sorry if this post was a bit verbose, I've been very overworked lately and haven't had time to edit down for conciseness' sake!

EDIT: OMG almost forgot if you got the cash and want closed loop - co2 it! So tasty! Do remember though that co2 extraction still gets waxes so you will have to winterize or apply some seriously advanced chemistry to get that out lol (of course unless you don't mind waxes and just want delicious otherwise top quality reliable oil production).

Lol by the time I finished typing this post there were like 10 more!

 

[DieHard]

Hey brother,

You can make incredible shatter with any solvent, but contrary to my main man @DieHard I find the best tek for my purposes and situations are to use 2 solvents. ISO for the initial extraction and ethanol only for winterizing after. My reason for this is that ISO is so cheap compared to ethanol (which is hard to get here and expensive as fuck due to tax regulations).

Still @DieHard is onto a key factor to consider with multiple solvents which is that if your tek is not immaculate, you are gonna get more waste the more solvents you use due to multiple sloppy purges. Still, this loss can be almost entirely/entirely mitigated with super tight, lab style methodology and consistency.

As an aside: If you can get ethanol at reasonable prices, use it! Quickest way to fantastic stuff without using some much more dangerous solvents. Ethanol is extremely conducive to large scale production for yourself and beyond because it allows comparatively very long washes - useful for lots of material in one large jar/vessel for the wash.

Use a vac for the surest purge (I have near perfected purging at atmospheric pressures with my current tech, but still it is a process which requires such tight controls and application of methodology that it is really beyond reasonable for most without overpurging/underpurging and the associated waste/low quality), drop me a PM if you get a vac and I'll help you out with some tailored protips specific to your choice of tek and region.

I am actually finding that with the right tek (my latest improvements) I can almost get a perfect absolute using QWISO alone though. My experiments have reliably shown for a while now that my QWISO extractions can pull out NO observable wax when redissolved in ethanol and frozen for a week (any of you who winterize understand that this is gonna give those waxes nowhere to hide in the solution). However ISO strips buds bare (including chlorophyll and wax and fats!) super quick and for many reasons requires me to apply a level of rigor in application that could not be reasonably expected from non-scientists.

I'll post up a pic of my latest QWISO only absolute soon. However for now and to compare later; look at the blue cheese in my avatar, which is the lowest standard of my work using QWISO then ethanol (made with the worst starting material I've applied my current tek to, very immature smaller nugs, not cured, wet, hardly any visible trichs).

Sorry if this post was a bit verbose, I've been very overworked lately and haven't had time to edit down for conciseness' sake!

EDIT: OMG almost forgot if you got the cash and want closed loop - co2 it! So tasty! Do remember though that co2 extraction still gets waxes so you will have to winterize or apply some seriously advanced chemistry to get that out lol (of course unless you don't mind waxes and just want delicious otherwise top quality reliable oil production).

Lol by the time I finished typing this post there were like 10 more!

Don't apologize! I personally read them twice to absorb everything.

 

[Monsoon]

Hey guys... Im ready to get into extraction for larger scale production. Nothing crazy, just personal but Ive been doing my stuff with a tube, blasting it with butane and then without a purge oven, have been repeatedly purging with grain alcohol and boiling it down.

I want to mechanize some of this... I looked at the "Extract into a thermos" method and that looks promising but Id like to see what the rest of you guys are doing. Id like to even have a closed loop system but there are so many choices, I just dont know what to get to get started so Im turning to my FC brothers to nudge me in the right direction. I figure there has to be a grassroots extraction community, I just dont know where that might be.

One simple and relatively cheap upgrade you can get that can be used for nearly all methods is a Buchner funnel vacuum filtration setup. You can use 2-5 micron filters (Slow) which is better than a coffee filter (~20 micron) and it will filter it very quickly once you get the pressure up. I think my last run it took under 10 minutes to filter through a liter of solution versus the 1-2 hours it took before. Huge time savings and a cleaner product means it's win-win. I run my QWISO through twice to be sure I get everything.

For purging I got a 1.6Gal Flat Chamber, flat PID-controlled heater pad and 3 cfm pump with carbon filter from BestValueVacs. They have some nice pyrex options too which would be good to evap in (no vac!!!) and then start with a thin film purge prior to scraping while also giving you consistent temps. If you ever need to increase your capacity, you can just buy another chamber and share the pump between them. Everyone has their own opinions on whether heat purge alone is enough, my opinion right now is that it's not enough if you're aiming for a high quality well purged extract (@herbivore21 excepted). I ran some "finished" QWISO shatter in my vac when I got it and it bubbled up a lot more than I expected. I've also noticed an improvement in taste when I've gotten shatter as an end product, it's less harsh and maybe bit tastier too. Once you get the knack of it it should save you time since you'll just need to monitor it at the beginning and then check on it periodically. Temps will stay consistent thanks to the PID controlled heater pad and no contamination issues since it's sealed off from the outside air.

------

Also this shows some promise if it actually delivers. I linked to the reddit thread since more info is in the comments also quoted below. It would actually make using ethanol worthwhile instead of ISO if I could easily reclaim it.

The process occurs at body temperature. It uses a vacuum chamber to allow the alcohol to boil at this reduced temperature, and is recovered inside the unit without exposure to electrical or other parts. No significant vapors are released.

The isomerizer took days. The Source takes 40 minutes to an hour or so to process an ounce of material or more.
​

Aside from all the smartphone stuff, it might be possible to come up with a cheap clone of that setup if you're resourceful.

 

[PoopMachine]

Do you guys know anything about the closed loop system these guys sell?

http://www.extractionexperts.com/Products.html

All of these closed loop systems appear to be pretty much the same, just the prices vary wildly.

Again, this is what Im working up to. Im going to start small.... Reading up on this stuff, its enough to make your head spin.

 

[herbivore21]

@Monsoon , about that product you mentioned. You absolutely do not need anything other than a plain old vac chamber and the right kinda pump to do that whole cold boiling at room temp thing.

It's all about finding the ideal pressure inside the chamber by running an equation using a number of key variables not the least of which is your choice of solvent (and it's respective physical properties). Once the answer to this sum is determined, pump down to get that magic reading on the gauge and let the purge happen without any added heat at all! Room temp boiling, you guessed it, your room will have disco fever and the shatter you end up with will have you swearing that things are getting hot in there!

Heat is not necessary when we have an adequate vac

Get a competent vac and you are really not gonna need to worry much about your purge

Bonus points for squeezing that extra value out of the vac by using it for filtration! Kudos for putting that pump to work for your money my friend!

Now for safety's sake:

Everyone else, do not rush out and get buchner funnels and vac hoses and the like to start using a pump for filtration uninitiated, there is a lot of safety to learn when engaging a vacuum pump for a new application like this. Things like appropriate hoses/clamps, appropriate glass, stands (DO NOT CONNECT ANY LAB GLASS RECEPTACLE TO A VACUUM WITHOUT THAT GLASS RECEPTACLE BEING FIRMLY SECURED TO A STURDY LAB STAND - NO EXCEPTIONS, ONE STAND PER FLASK/BOTTLE/WHATEVER GLASS THING!!!) are all essential stuff to know about and have first.

Still, once you do learn these things you'll see why Monsoon has been enjoying his funnel so much!

By the way @PoopMachine I looked at the extractionexperts closed loop system and there really is not enough info there for me to be able to determine if it would be safe or practical to use. I know that legit lab equipment for this purpose which is designed for the solvents we use is liable to cost upwards of 10k though so I wonder. Still, I might get in touch with those guys and find out a thing or two!

 

[negan]

Now for safety's sake:

Everyone else, do not rush out and get buchner funnels and vac hoses and the like to start using a pump for filtration uninitiated, there is a lot of safety to learn when engaging a vacuum pump for a new application like this. Things like appropriate hoses/clamps, appropriate glass, stands (DO NOT CONNECT ANY LAB GLASS RECEPTACLE TO A VACUUM WITHOUT THAT GLASS RECEPTACLE BEING FIRMLY SECURED TO A STURDY LAB STAND - NO EXCEPTIONS, ONE STAND PER FLASK/BOTTLE/WHATEVER GLASS THING!!!) are all essential stuff to know about and have first.

Yeah crazy things can happen. In that video I posted Horatio said that before he had a mag stirrer for the water chamber (steam distillation) that the conditions of the environment in the lab glass under vacuum (from the water boiling) caused the whole setup to rock violently back and forth. He said he came downstairs to see it doing that and very close to tipping the whole setup over. Do not want!

 

[herbivore21]

Yeah crazy things can happen. In that video I posted Horatio said that before he had a mag stirrer for the water chamber (steam distillation) that the conditions of the environment in the lab glass under vacuum (from the water boiling) caused the whole setup to rock violently back and forth. He said he came downstairs to see it doing that and very close to tipping the whole setup over. Do not want!

I hear you brother, you really do not want that with D-Limonene either, which has an EXTREMELY low flash point and is liable to go up in flames with very little encouragement compared to even the other solvents we use (which of course are flammable to a lesser extent too)!

That video bothered me actually. To me it is unconscionable to go and show a bunch of stoners how to do that shit on youtube and recommend they go and do it without them knowing way more basic safety info than was provided in that clip! Horatio even described using a connection not designed for a vac IIRC because his modifications made it safe. DO NOT DO THAT SHIT EVER GUYS! ONLY USE HOSES AND CLAMPS DESIGNED FOR THE PURPOSE WHEN ATTACHING A VAC TO GLASS!

There are many reasons apart from my own proprietary knowledge that I don't go around telling people to use this sort of shit! Number one is safety!

Finally this is nothing against Bubbleman's World more generally, which is a fantastic channel with loads of great information. This is also not any attack on Horatio, who does a lot of great work.

Still, it's all about safety IMO and that video was somewhat lacking in that regard.

 

[Monsoon]

@Monsoon , about that product you mentioned. You absolutely do not need anything other than a plain old vac chamber and the right kinda pump to do that whole cold boiling at room temp thing.

It's all about finding the ideal pressure inside the chamber by running an equation using a number of key variables not the least of which is your choice of solvent (and it's respective physical properties). Once the answer to this sum is determined, pump down to get that magic reading on the gauge and let the purge happen without any added heat at all! Room temp boiling, you guessed it, your room will have disco fever and the shatter you end up with will have you swearing that things are getting hot in there!

Heat is not necessary when we have an adequate vac

Get a competent vac and you are really not gonna need to worry much about your purge

Bonus points for squeezing that extra value out of the vac by using it for filtration! Kudos for putting that pump to work for your money my friend!

So why does just about everyone use at least some heat when vac purging for shatter? Legit question, I want to know the difference since there must be a reason, I'm guessing shorter purge time but maybe something else? Also why wouldn't you want to pull to a full vacuum on a no-heat purge and what would be the difference between pulling it at a full vacuum (~28.5) and pulling it for less? I thought a lot of the solvent escaped when the bubbles popped?

I'm just using the hand pump for now for filtration but I'll probably try it with a vacuum-ed chamber instead since the hand pump is a literal pain. Hooking up the pump directly isn't ideal due to vapors getting sucked into the pump and pump oil and maybe a risk of breaking the glass if the pump is too strong. A water aspirator would work well too and you can get one for $15 on amazon.

 

[amberevil]

@mvapes If I can do th pour tec with butane onto parchment can I simply blast right on parchment, if not why?

 

[Monsoon]

I'm slowly getting my process down since getting my new toys. I ran 3oz of flowers this time and cleaning/washing/filtration took under 2 hours which is pretty good. Tried a lower temp for the first run and didn't go much over 100F, vac'ed for nearly 2 days with flips every 6-8 hours and only had a tiny bit of budder starting to form on one slab when it was done. Smoother than my previous batches, not too much flavour but the starting material didn't smell like much either.

Here are pics of the finished first run posted in the stash thread. Both are from the same starting solution just evap'ed on different dishes under similar conditions. Top one was purged for only 3 hours after evap before scraping, had more solvent when starting the vac and I was able to spread more thinly. The bottom one was purged for 9 hours after evap and I wasn't able to spread it as thinly due to less solvent.

Just finished this batch of Grape Krush QWISO. Rock hard and peels right off the oilslick pad.

And here are some pics of some freshly scraped, flattened and peeled slabs from the 2nd run ready to go into the vac. I love how clear the slab is, zero visible contaminants aside from air bubbles. These were purged for about 8 hours after evap was finished.

 

[Monsoon]

Here are the same two slabs out of the vacuum after ~36 hours at 95-100F. Only had a couple spots of buddering, otherwise it's completely see through. Hits super smooth and has a slight grape taste to it. I'm really happy I'm able to make this level of quality myself, a lot of the shatters/waxes I've bought have been hit and miss and sometimes double the cost.

Bottom (smooth) side up:

 

[PPN]

I get a problem....

To be short I got a Classic honey bee and a mini glass tube ((8-10g max, looks like one posted on this page), this one was very thin and I broke it. I decided to buy another better version of it (more solid), this one: http://www.alchimiaweb.com/fr/extracteur-dhuile-bho-mini-product-3890.php

But the tane is travelling too fast in the tube and I obtain very low yields (9g in= 0.2 outside!, habitually I get 1-1.2g with the same trim&little nugs ), I used exactly the same technique.... I don't understand..... did ou notice so big differences in extraction between different sort of tubes?

I repacked everything in my Honey-bee and got a decent yield...

 

[DieHard]

I get a problem....

To be short I got a Classic honey bee and a mini glass tube ((8-10g max, looks like one posted on this page), this one was very thin and I broke it. I decided to buy another better version of it (more solid), this one: http://www.alchimiaweb.com/fr/extracteur-dhuile-bho-mini-product-3890.php

But the tane is travelling too fast in the tube and I obtain very low yields (9g in= 0.2 outside!, habitually I get 1-1.2g with the same trim&little nugs ), I used exactly the same technique.... I don't understand..... did ou notice so big differences in extraction between different sort of tubes?

I repacked everything in my Honey-bee and got a decent yield...

I have a VapeTools medium glass tube. I had a bad run with it and went back to my old method. My glass tube was overflowing tane back out the fill hole. Now I'm back to using copper for my tube. I can have the tube as long as I like. Today I have 14g of LA Confidential ready to go into the tube. Tube is 3/4"x24". Any empty space in the tube gets filled with glass marbles to diffuse the tane and reduce blowback.

 

[spoutti]

I started to clean my concentrate stash from alcohol in a vac chamber today too @Monsoon ! I started by emptying and smearing my 3 hercs in a 9'' pyrex dish under 29,5Hg at 95F (trying to get 115F with my heating mat/dimmer as in https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5730427&postcount=2) I see it as working and experimenting with my c grade stash . My 1st vac purge

After cleaning my hercs and my remaining stash, grade b id say, I hope I will produce grade a shatter from the lightest blond hash I ever had. I will freeze everything and give it a 1-2h long ethanol wash and winterize it. Any pointers with hash process would be appreciated @herbivore21 or anyone else that have experience with hash. If I can get 50% return (I remember reading 60+% from you herbivore21), that would reduce my cost of production vs bud concentrate.

Im quite stoked about having close to 100% purged smooth concentrates soon. Even more about probably getting my terpiest AND smoothest experience with my soon to be hash concentrate

 

[herbivore21]

I started to clean my concentrate stash from alcohol in a vac chamber today too @Monsoon ! I started by emptying and smearing my 3 hercs in a 9'' pyrex dish under 29,5Hg at 95F (trying to get 115F with my heating mat/dimmer as in https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5730427&postcount=2) I see it as working and experimenting with my c grade stash . My 1st vac purge

After cleaning my hercs and my remaining stash, grade b id say, I hope I will produce grade a shatter from the lightest blond hash I ever had. I will freeze everything and give it a 1-2h long ethanol wash and winterize it. Any pointers with hash process would be appreciated @herbivore21 or anyone else that have experience with hash. If I can get 50% return (I remember reading 60+% from you herbivore21), that would reduce my cost of production vs bud concentrate.

Im quite stoked about having close to 100% purged smooth concentrates soon. Even more about probably getting my terpiest AND smoothest experience with my soon to be hash concentrate

Hey bro, PM me with some details about where you're located (city is enough info!)/what kinda vac you use and preferably with a pic of the hash and I'll give you some pointers which should have you getting the most out of the material

 

[DieHard]

Today's efforts. 14g of LA Confidential (looked and smelled a bit "old" IMO).
Yielded 3.4g. It's looking darker than I usually like to see. It is also slightly tacky to the touch. It won't stick to ptfe, parchment, or oil slick pad. Only fingers. It breaks clean with the dabber. The flavor is a little muted but stronger than the flower vaped in the E-Nano. I'm thinking the flowers were slightly de carbed from age. Still very happy with this batch.

 

[Monsoon]

I started to clean my concentrate stash from alcohol in a vac chamber today too @Monsoon ! I started by emptying and smearing my 3 hercs in a 9'' pyrex dish under 29,5Hg at 95F (trying to get 115F with my heating mat/dimmer as in https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5730427&postcount=2) I see it as working and experimenting with my c grade stash . My 1st vac purge

After cleaning my hercs and my remaining stash, grade b id say, I hope I will produce grade a shatter from the lightest blond hash I ever had. I will freeze everything and give it a 1-2h long ethanol wash and winterize it. Any pointers with hash process would be appreciated @herbivore21 or anyone else that have experience with hash. If I can get 50% return (I remember reading 60+% from you herbivore21), that would reduce my cost of production vs bud concentrate.

Im quite stoked about having close to 100% purged smooth concentrates soon. Even more about probably getting my terpiest AND smoothest experience with my soon to be hash concentrate

You should be fine at 95F if it can't go hotter, probably better around there than at 115F IMO. Make sure you take the reading on the oil after it's been closed for awhile to make sure it's accurate. Don't forget to flip it too, I aimed for around every 6-8 hours or when it seemed to stop reacting over time. I suggest getting some OilSlick Duo's for purging, you can just plop/smear the oil onto one with the other on top, place on a heating plate around 110-120F and flatten and spread it out with your fingers. Then toss in the freezer for 5 minutes and gently peel off the top pad. You can get maybe 3-4g thinly spread per pad, makes flipping it just a matter of re-making the sandwich, freeze and peel.

If you haven't already done so, order a Buchner funnel filtration kit. If you do a lot of alcohol washes it will change your life! I forget the exact timing but for the wash I just did I filtered 2L twice in maybe 30-45 minutes. With coffee filters and plain old gravity that would be a few hours. The entire wash and filtering took 90 minutes this time which is a new record for me, and it means I don't have to set aside an entire afternoon to babysit it. Now that you have a vacuum purge kit, it's just a matter of pulling a vacuum on the chamber and then hooking it up to the flask.

 

[lonelyhero]

I've been using a Büchner funnel and flask for a while now with a hand pump but I'm very interested in adding a vac chamber I usually run 1-2 oz at a time was wondering if you guys had any suggestions

 

[spoutti]

You should be fine at 95F if it can't go hotter, probably better around there than at 115F IMO. Make sure you take the reading on the oil after it's been closed for awhile to make sure it's accurate. Don't forget to flip it too, I aimed for around every 6-8 hours or when it seemed to stop reacting over time. I suggest getting some OilSlick Duo's for purging, you can just plop/smear the oil onto one with the other on top, place on a heating plate around 110-120F and flatten and spread it out with your fingers. Then toss in the freezer for 5 minutes and gently peel off the top pad. You can get maybe 3-4g thinly spread per pad, makes flipping it just a matter of re-making the sandwich, freeze and peel.

If you haven't already done so, order a Buchner funnel filtration kit. If you do a lot of alcohol washes it will change your life! I forget the exact timing but for the wash I just did I filtered 2L twice in maybe 30-45 minutes. With coffee filters and plain old gravity that would be a few hours. The entire wash and filtering took 90 minutes this time which is a new record for me, and it means I don't have to set aside an entire afternoon to babysit it. Now that you have a vacuum purge kit, it's just a matter of pulling a vacuum on the chamber and then hooking it up to the flask.

With time, my 100W silicon heating mat got my oil stabilized at +-105F in a pyrex dish in my aluminum vac chamber. It was a thin film spreaded in a 9" pyrex. I collected it after 18h of vac purge (scraping at 100F is a charm!). There was some frickles like bubbles that wouldnt pop. I just put the collected patty back in the vac at +-105F for the day and see how it is a few hours later.

I have to look into faster filtering as well. Its long with those 10 micron ss filters as well. And they need maintenancing frequently. But dont I risk to suck in some waxes and/or whatnot because of the pressure? Right now, its all about getting that alcohol out of the mix though. Then I will make it happen faster

 

[NickDlow]

r filtering as well. Its long with those 10 micron ss filters as

I strain through a standard SS kitchen strainer for quick separation, then into my 50 micron SS, into the 10 micron.

 

[spoutti]

I strain through a standard SS kitchen strainer for quick separation, then into my 50 micron SS, into the 10 micron.

Close to similar to me! I hold a strainer lined with a 25 micron ss filter on top of a strainer lined with a 10 micron ss filter. I tried stacking 2 25micron hoping to keep the 10 micron one clean longer. Needs more testing.

There are still bubbles in my herc erl recycling.. I put the patty directly on the pyrex plate in the vac under 29,5Hg and it melted/spreaded. I managed to get the temp up to 115F and will leave it overnight again and see if the bubbles survive the night. Bubbles or not, im fuelling my herc/istick with it tomorrow. Its been a long concentrate break; lots of catch up to do

 

[Fairliner]

Has anyone tried using a combination of high pressure steam through a cylinder while hydraulically driving a piston through the cylinder? It's my understanding that the flat press works well because of the increased surface area for the heat to penetrate. I'm thinking of trying high pressure steam running through a hydraulically driven piston that will pressing the material in a cylinder with screen... In theory, should get steam, water and oil out the other side, cool solution and separate water from oil.. could possibly bubble bag first. Attempting a modified rosin extraction..

Also could possibly increase the outlet valve pressure to allow for an increased steam temp.. not sure...

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks