ean
Well-Known Member
bho always astounds me how different strains come out to different consistency.So I was right about having some of that death star.
Concentrates for Noobs - Q&A
- Thread starter FlyingLow
- Start date
Athanor
New Member
I'm looking at the QWET method, and using ejmix and probably pt3mini. I can get 190proof 1.75L for ~$25, so seems cheap enough (interestingly, the EC in the shop I looked at was only 151p, but they had some other brand at 190p). For the 2nd, 3rd run, do I need to dry everything out, or just make sure everything is cold before running more c2h5oh? Would dry ice at any stage be beneficial? Like for winterizing? If cold is good...
PPN
Volute of Vapor
Thanks!
I don't understand what is happenning with my last runs but my flowers runs gave me a sort of waxy shatter and my trims+2nd flower run runs gave me solid shatter (I use the same heat purge method, on silicon), before I always got shatter....except when I made a mistake!
Maybe the difference is coming from mold cause there is some bigger buds a bit moldy...that's why I use now 4 unbleachec coffee filter (before it was 3), but it doesn't help.....taste is not moldy at all and there is not too much residues that's why I don't want to winterize it.....any inputs?
Havelock Vetenari
Patrician
My strongly suggested input would be to never use moldy flowers.![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
The spores and toxins these produce are small enough to be unaffected by any filtering,which wouldn't filter out all the trichomes(whole or parts)long before...
The difference in shatter consistency isn't likely due to the mold itself IMAO,but might possibly be another consequence(besides the mold) of there being more moisture in your starting product?
The spores and toxins these produce are small enough to be unaffected by any filtering,which wouldn't filter out all the trichomes(whole or parts)long before...
The difference in shatter consistency isn't likely due to the mold itself IMAO,but might possibly be another consequence(besides the mold) of there being more moisture in your starting product?
PPN
Volute of Vapor
A really tiny part of my bud is molded, do you think to heat my flowers before extraction could help?
And what about winterization? do you think it could help to remove spores?
I think moisture and condition of extraction and purge was the same for my flowers and my trim, so I think this can't explain the texture difference.
Although this waxy extractions are made from a mix of different strains (all the little buds+ moldy big buds) and I always got shatter before from a one strain extraction.....
And what about winterization? do you think it could help to remove spores?
I think moisture and condition of extraction and purge was the same for my flowers and my trim, so I think this can't explain the texture difference.
Although this waxy extractions are made from a mix of different strains (all the little buds+ moldy big buds) and I always got shatter before from a one strain extraction.....
Throw it out! It's not worth any possible health problems that mold can cause. 
Havelock Vetenari
Patrician
Different startingmaterial(s) would have been my next guess.
Winterization will not remove all spores,if any and if it's only a tiny part,why bother trying to save it?
Again not worth the risk IMAO.
Winterization will not remove all spores,if any and if it's only a tiny part,why bother trying to save it?
Again not worth the risk IMAO.
2clicker
Observer
My last run: 12.5g Sour Purple Diesel. Yield 3.6g of heaven.
that is a great yeild! i need to start doing my own runs again.
amberevil
Well-Known Member
Is this safe 99 iso.
http://www.multitechproducts.com/isopropyl-alcohol-99-safe-surface-prep-ipa/
http://www.multitechproducts.com/isopropyl-alcohol-99-safe-surface-prep-ipa/
Sorry if this has been asked before, but I was wondering if someone could explain to me the difference between a concentrate that goes into a pen vape (I use Gold Star Concentrates) vs the ones that come in the little round containers and have to be "dabbed". There was also some kind of powder? I've been trying to figure this out through google searches and have embarrassingly not figured it out yet. I'm interested in learning how to make my own concentrate from buds, but I'm not sure which process is the right one for the equipment I have. Any insight would be appreciated. :-)
2clicker
Observer
@Namio, i assume by "goes into a pen" you mean a liquified concentrate? one that wicks in reg ecig equipment?
basically the dabbable concentrate is raw (at least that is what you want) and mostly a solid. stuff like shatter and wax for example. these can still be sticky to the touch, but are too viscous to wick like a liquid. the stuff in ecig clearomizers you see around is just a shatter/wax that has been cut with a liquid to act as a carrier so that it wicks in reg ecig atomizers. most use a liquified concentrate because its very stealthy. you can medicate just about anywhere due to the popularity of ecigs. others use it because its convenient and readily available. liquified concentrate is not as potent as raw concentrate obviously, but it def has its place. oh and check out the "one hitter quitter" thread you will see tons of examples on how to use and build ecig equipment that vapes a solid form of concentrate. i prefer this method myself over a torch and nail setup all day long. it does require building coils yourself, but that shit is fun to me so...
hope this helps
basically the dabbable concentrate is raw (at least that is what you want) and mostly a solid. stuff like shatter and wax for example. these can still be sticky to the touch, but are too viscous to wick like a liquid. the stuff in ecig clearomizers you see around is just a shatter/wax that has been cut with a liquid to act as a carrier so that it wicks in reg ecig atomizers. most use a liquified concentrate because its very stealthy. you can medicate just about anywhere due to the popularity of ecigs. others use it because its convenient and readily available. liquified concentrate is not as potent as raw concentrate obviously, but it def has its place. oh and check out the "one hitter quitter" thread you will see tons of examples on how to use and build ecig equipment that vapes a solid form of concentrate. i prefer this method myself over a torch and nail setup all day long. it does require building coils yourself, but that shit is fun to me so...
hope this helps
Let me clarify: I have an O-pen vape and I LOVE it. I get cartridges for it from a brand called Gold Star Concentrates. The package says it's pure mj oil made using a CO2 extraction method, and contains no pg or vg. I would be very interested in learning how to make my own concentrate, but when I look at tutorials, they ALL assume it's for dabbing. I want something that I can just stick in my vape (or one like it) and carry around in my pocket. I started a thread that goes into more detail about the specific type of liquid I eventually want to create (http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/n...eppermint-oil-for-use-in-an-o-pen-vape.16568/), but this question has been bugging me for a long time. The Gold Star Concentrate is thick but still slightly viscous. Left in one position long enough, the concentrate will eventually pool, which makes it look different than some of the more waxy products I see at the store, which look a lot more solid. Basically, I want to know what the difference is between a concentrate that CAN go in my vape and one that can't, so I can make better decisions about experimenting with making my own in the future. Does that help?
2clicker
Observer
@Namio, it does help. i forgot about the CO2 stuff. from what i understand expensive equipment is needed to produce this. im not sure its a great choice for DIY unless you have the funds and know how.
BUT you can make a very potent liquid yourself, but it will obviously require cutting it with a carrier liquid. dont be misled though. a very tasty and potent mix can be achieved in a DIY setting. check out "liquidizer's EJMix".
BUT you can make a very potent liquid yourself, but it will obviously require cutting it with a carrier liquid. dont be misled though. a very tasty and potent mix can be achieved in a DIY setting. check out "liquidizer's EJMix".
2clicker
Observer
i do qwet runs myself with everclear and it produces shatter everytime. shatter will not work in a tank. you would have to load a dab at a time directly to the coil. again any return from butane or everclear will usually be a solid so it would need to be liquified to wick well.
i am not sure about peppermint oil. i do know that VG or PG will not work alone. when mixed with VG or PG the oil will separate after time and will cause issues.
i can only suggest one solution to turn your solid oil into a liquid to wick in a tank/clearo. that would be EJmix by Liquidizer. i use it myself and its pretty amazing. it will NOT separate on you. this stuff will stay mixed and you can dial in your potency. i use a 1 part EJmix / .5 part concentrate and it tastes good and is very potent.
you can check out their thread on here or nust check their website at www.liquidizer.com
CrazyDiamond
HAL is a StarChild
Looks fine to me...I use 99 iso (not that brand) and it works great.
Yes, I'm back, sort of...still jobless, but I'll have some money coming in soon from a death in the family. So ya it has been an incredibly stressful 2 months for me.
Someone PM me a synopsis of what's been going on around here...would be appreciated...I missed you all.
amberevil
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply @CrazyDiamond. Maybe i should be asking a different question to not have to worry about this again.
What should I look for to make sure that it is safe to use 99 iso? Is there such a thing as unsafe 99 iso?
What should I look for to make sure that it is safe to use 99 iso? Is there such a thing as unsafe 99 iso?
CrazyDiamond
HAL is a StarChild
Just make sure that's all that's in it....pure iso with maybe a touch of water...nothing else!