Cheap High Quality Bubbler

[Errl]

Been a long time since I've been on these forums, but I wanted to stop by and say thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I was looking for a small bubbler and the D020 fits the bill perfectly.

So I'm covered on my small bubbler needs... Next step is obviously a bigger one! Haha I'm thinking about something like the WP-010 or the Toro Macro clones. Can anyone link me to a China seller with these?

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?

 

[Mister G]

Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?

Any of the ones labeled 14/20 will work in your D020. The 14 refers to the smaller end that fits INSIDE the 18mm opening and the 20 refers to the wider tapered end of the joint that prevents it from sliding all the way through.

 

[Anonymouse]

Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?

I'd just use a carbon filter (or 14mm female to 18mm male adapter) instead, then lift the whole unit off to clear by grabbing the filter. The Lotus is so small that this is basically the same effort as pulling a stopper anyway, plus you can load the filter/adapter with cotton wool to catch the dust and ash when Lotus inevitably, eventually combusts.

(I like my Lotus, but when you're trying to get that last little bit extracted from a bowl you're walking a really fine line, and if you're doing so regularly, you will burn the load on occasion.)

Edit: This'd give better ergonomics, too, as a full-size claisen would put the top of the Lotus above the mouthpiece, which makes it awkward to see where your flame jet is hitting. An adapter would have it a little below the moutpiece, which is just about perfect viewing height.

 

[Herr_Dampf]

Any of the ones labeled 14/20 will work in your D020. The 14 refers to the smaller end that fits INSIDE the 18mm opening and the 20 refers to the wider tapered end of the joint that prevents it from sliding all the way through.

Negative, first number is diameter at the widest point, second is length.
A 14/20 will not fit the the D020 without an adapter.

The first number represents the outer diameter (OD) in millimeters (mm) at the base (widest part) of the inner joint. if possible - mark on picture The second number represents the ground glass length of the joint in millimeters.[1] The most common US joints are 14/20 and 24/40. These sizes apply only to glassware in the US. There are also European ISO standard joints with common joint sizes of 5/13, 7/16, 10/19, 12/21, 14/23, 19/26, 24/29, 29/32, 34/35, 45/40, 60/46, 71/51 and 85/55. The US and ISO joints differ only in the length, not in the slope, and some can be used in combination. The stopper joints of chemical bottles, volumetric flasks, and separatory funnels often do not use the precision standard taper joints. Stopper joints are designated (if at all) only by the maximum diameter number

Claisen 19/22:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/synthware-Adapter-Claisen-Joints-19-22/940138315.html

 

[Anonymouse]

Negative, first number is diameter at the widest point, second is length.

Heh, you beat me to it. Was just about to edit my last post to add the quote.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Negative, first number is diameter at the widest point, second is length.
A 14/20 will not fit the the D020 without an adapter.



Claisen 19/22:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/synthware-Adapter-Claisen-Joints-19-22/940138315.html

Awesome, thanks for clearing that up - so if I buy a 19/22 like the one pictured, that will give me 3 18mm joints (2 female and 1 male)?

 

[Mister G]

Thank you for the corrections. I know just enough to be dangerous.

To make up for it, here's the best deal I've found on Ebay, $8.99 shipped and the seller is very fast shipper in the CONUS.

 

[Herr_Dampf]

Awesome, thanks for clearing that up - so if I buy a 19/22 like the one pictured, that will give me 3 18mm joints (2 female and 1 male)?

Exactly. Its actually 18.8mm, thats why many places call it 19.

Thank you for the corrections. I know just enough to be dangerous.

To make up for it, here's the best deal I've found on Ebay, $8.99 shipped and the seller is very fast shipper in the CONUS.

Thanks for that link. Due to my location, I am always more on the look out for euro deals

Heh, you beat me to it. Was just about to edit my last post to add the quote.

We are two horrible wisenheimers, aren't we
EDIT: Awesome tag team action there!

 

[Anonymouse]

Awesome, thanks for clearing that up - so if I buy a 19/22 like the one pictured, that will give me 3 18mm joints (2 female and 1 male)?

Yes, but then you'd also need to buy a stopper and a low-profile 18mm to 14mm reducer as well, to connect all the stuff up. Or you could get a 14mm claisen but you'd still need the low-pro to connect, it'd just go in the bubbler instead of the top of the claisen in that case.

The solution I suggested above is cheaper and easier, though, and I think it'd work better in multiple ways with this particular vape. Go back and check the edit I just added for a new point, BTW...

 

[SSVUN~YAH]

Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?

Yes, but then you'd also need to buy a stopper and a low-profile 18mm to 14mm reducer as well, to connect all the stuff up. Or you could get a 14mm claisen but you'd still need the low-pro to connect, it'd just go in the bubbler instead of the top of the claisen in that case.

The solution I suggested above is cheaper and easier, though, and I think it'd work better in multiple ways with this particular vape. Go back and check the edit I just added for a new point, BTW...

Spoiler: Broken record

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/cheap-high-quality-bubbler.5255/page-185#post-571822
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-lotus-vaporizer.2595/page-123#post-568589

 

[Anonymouse]

Spoiler: Broken record

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/cheap-high-quality-bubbler.5255/page-185#post-571822
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-lotus-vaporizer.2595/page-123#post-568589

Hssss! Mussst be all-glasss, hssss! Unbeliever!

Seriously though, I'd personally prefer something rigid, and the advantage of a cotton filter in a vape that's capable of regular combustion (or even just liberating a lot more ash before combustion than most vapes) can't be understated. As Doctor Brule says, it's for your health.

 

[SSVUN~YAH]

Hssss! Mussst be all-glasss, hssss! Unbeleiever!

Seriously though, I'd personally prefer something rigid, and the advantage of a cotton filter in a vape that's capable of regular combustion (or even just liberating a lot more ash before combustion than most vapes) can't be understated. As Doctor Brule says, it's for your health.

The silicone touches the air path less than 1/4" in length, use medical grade high temp silicone. Protects your glass by covering metal, slides over/into any joint, no taste difference, no need for adapters($ and length problems), cheap and easy, plus convert combustion bowls this way. Plus you can slide it over the wpa so there is zero overhang thus not in air path. The Lotus wpa is stainless steel so idk how you get all glass air path to begin with, just trying to help not trying to get flamed by people who have never tried it before...

 

[Anonymouse]

The silicone touches the air path less than 1/4" in length, use medical grade high temp silicone. Protects your glass by covering metal, slides over any joint, no taste difference, no need for adapters($ and length problems), cheap and easy, plus convert combustion bowls this way. Plus you can slide it over the wpa so there is zero overhang thus not in air path. The Lotus wpa is stainless steel so idk how you get all glass air path to begin with, just trying to help not trying to get flamed by people who have never tried it before...

Well yes, hence the mock-sarcastic tone in the first sentence. I don't believe "all glass" is that important as long as the substituted materials are suitably chemically inert. Plus like you say, the WPA (and most of the Lotus) is stainless anyway.

But for all the other reasons I stated, I still think a rigid adapter is the best option, and a filter is a massive bonus. The 14F to 18M converter is like $8 on eBay/iOffer, and that's all he'd need to buy, so it's also really cheap, plus it's much less likely to fall out. He wanted a claisen for easier clearing, and an adapter is a nice rigid "handle" to lift the Lotus off with, but one that's only going to add about an inch of height when inserted, as opposed to the two to three inches a claisen would. Just wedge a bit of screen and some cotton bud lightly in there for a filter and he's good to go.

 

[SSVUN~YAH]

I completely agree with the cotton. Yes that adapter will be fine and work. I thought the same way, I need all glass setup. But when I wanted to see the top of my hammer bub, I used the silicone and it opened my eyes to a world of possibilities!

 

[Anonymouse]

I completely agree with the cotton. Yes that adapter will be fine and work. I thought the same way, I need all glass setup. But when I wanted to see the top of my hammer bub, I used the silicone and it opened my eyes to a world of possibilities!

Right but the whole purpose here was to make the Lotus easier to clear, and to do that the silicone would have to be quite long so as to be grippable, so would stick out just as much as the glass adapter, only it'd be bendy. Also you just drop the glass in any which way and it seals. Silicone would have to be pressed in somewhat.

I'm talking about a full-height 14f to 18m, just to be clear, not a low-pro type, as the main purpose is to be a "handle".

 

[SSVUN~YAH]

Right but the whole purpose here was to make the Lotus easier to clear, and to do that the silicone would have to be quite long so as to be grippable, so would stick out just as much as the glass adapter, only it'd be bendy. Also you just drop the glass in any which way and it seals. Silicone would have to be pressed in somewhat.

How do you clear a Lotus? Why would silicone stick out as much as the adapter? Also you drop your glass joints in place, wow do they stick/lock/freeze/etc? You can actually drop this one in from right on top of the joint w/o worry of lock or breakage bc of the silicone. Do me a favor and try it instead of just thinking about it. I know you are a very educated man, I am not trying to belittle you by asking you to try, maybe it will be fascinating maybe not...

 

[Anonymouse]

How do you clear a Lotus?

I mean lifting it off to clear the water tool. You can't do this easily normally as the height of the WPA when inserted is only a few mm, so there's no room to grab, plus it gets pretty hot. A full-height GonG adapter adds the height of the 14mm female GonG under the Lotus (so ~20mm) to give you aplace to grab and lift off the Lotus and adapter together, instead of pulling the stopper on a claisen that will add a lot more height.

Why would silicone stick out as much as the adapter?

Because it has to to serve the same purpose; we're deliberately raising the Lotus up a little to provide a place to grip it from underneath.

Also you drop your glass joints in place, wow do they stick/lock/freeze/etc?

I can't remember the last time I had a stuck joint, but it's an occasional hazard. If you just let it fall in under gravity it's massively unlikely to be enough force to wedge it. I'm talking a drop of a few mm only, here.

You can actually drop this one in from right on top of the joint w/o worry of lock or breakage bc of the silicone. Do me a favor and try it instead of just thinking about it. I know you are a very educated man, I am not trying to belittle you by asking you to try, maybe it will be fascinating maybe not...

I'm not saying silicone won't work as a joint size adapter, or won't seal, just that it's not a good solution in this case, this case being an alternative to a claisen as an easy clearing method. It doesn't solve the same problem the claisen or glass adapter do unless you make it long and awkward.

 

[SSVUN~YAH]

I liked that post until the end. You don't need much silicone like your thinking. You can grab the wpa with silicone attached, I do it easily plenty of finger room and not hot at all. In my experience if its too hot then your screen probably needs replaced or your heating too long. Also I think it's a better flavor if I leave the Lotus on while clearing. Even with my LSV Claisen adapter setup I don't use the carb often, better flavor IME. I only use the carb if I am short of breath. It solved my problem WAY better than Claisen w/o making it long and awkward. Again please try it a week or so, work out the kinks for yourself, it can and it will work b/c I have done it and still do it today.

 

[DieHard]

 

[Anonymouse]

Also I think it's a better flavor if I leave the Lotus on while clearing.

I stop the flame when ready and clear through the Lotus as it's better to cool it before stopping draw as this reduces the the amount of resin that condenses inside it from residual vapour left in it or produced by a still-hot load. Even once the vapour runs clear, though, it's better to lift it off while still pulling, rather than stop your draw with it in place, as the back-pressure of the water settling will puff up though the bowl and often blow some ABV fragments up into the gap under the heat exchanger. This will build up over time and affect flavour, and there's no easy way to remove it short of disassembling the Lotus which is a bit of a bitch, especially if you don't have the right imperial-size allen key. The metal sleeving inside the Lotus cap really should go all the way to the top of the wood, and have a screen at the top to prevent this puff-back, plus improve diffusion of the heat enterering the bowl, but for some reason it doesn't.

But this is turning into a derail now, becoming less about the D020 and more about the Lotus. :/

 

[SSVUN~YAH]

I will keep my better flavor and longer rips in turn I must tap my Lotus a few times and take proper care and maintanence, not a bad trade off in my book. I agree now we are just arguing what works for us. But before I was saying that there are cheaper and easier ways to get a short adapter. It extended "derailed" b/c you shot it down and declared it unworthy before even trying it IIRC.

 

[Anonymouse]

I will keep my better flavor and longer rips in turn I must tap my Lotus a few times and take proper care and maintanence, not a bad trade off in my book. I agree now we are just arguing what works for us. But before I was saying that there are cheaper and easier ways to get a short adapter. It extended "derailed" b/c you shot it down and declared it unworthy before even trying it IIRC.

All I said was that I'd personally prefer something rigid, and that a filter was a better option because it was also, well, a filter. And then we ended up debating back and forth.

The "hissing" comment was in regards to the reaction you tend to get here from some quarters when suggesting using anything but glass as an airpath, and wasn't directed at you.

 

[SSVUN~YAH]

We're cool man! I respect you and is never my best intrest to get into an argument with well educated people. However, I felt as if my statements about the silicone were being discarded w/o proper justification. Let's have a vape, I will pull the carb in your honor!

 

[Tweak]

So has anyone bitten on any of the newer Sunshine glass yet?

Would love to see the new YQ-42 matrix perc in action. I just worry the QC will go downhill with a more elaborate perc.

IMO, this new "birdcage perc" would look really nice on the D020, maybe slightly bigger chamber.