biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
Respect, but didn't someone recently state that they actually had better performance without it? Something about it taking heat away from the coil? Maybe i've done one too many dabs, but I swear... lol
Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
Respect, but didn't someone recently state that they actually had better performance without it? Something about it taking heat away from the coil? Maybe i've done one too many dabs, but I swear... lol
RalphsBlend
Well-Known Member
If you already are aware of the risks that can be associated with computer duster, scroll down past the Red "End Warnings" text.
Some warnings about canned air, and a big thanks to VaporWare for reminding me that some warnings may be in order:
To add a few warnings for the uninformed since I figure I may as well cover all the bases:
1) Canned Air does contain gasses that are known to be asphyxiants, so in low ventilation environment repeated use over a period of time can replace breathable air in a manner dangerous to your health. As such, I agree with VaporWare's assessment that you probably shouldn't be using computer duster for vape cleaning constantly. That said, I work with computers and make use of duster frequently (though not every day) and in far greater output per session than described below for computer cleaning applications to no ill effects, so the key is being safe about ventilation and not using a ton of this stuff. If you are worried, do the duster step outside and you should not have any issues.
2) Hold the can as upright as possible while discharging the gas, if you hold the can at too extreme an angle (try to avoid angling the can more than 45 degrees from straight up and down, you'll know immediately if you've done it wrong) as this will cause the liquid form of the gas in the can to come out of the straw and this can cause freezer burns if it comes in contact with your skin.
3) The can will, with sustained discharge, begin to get cold and can get so cold that it freezes the condensation that starts to form on the outside of the can, though I've never gotten the can to do that with the amount of discharged when cleaning the bowl's screen, only with sustained computer dust blasting applications. Still, it's something to keep in mind if you decide to use the duster in other applications.
4) I had forgotten about this until I did a bit of supplemental googling, but due to sufficiently widespread abuse (extremely dangerous, but it happens), computer duster does contain a bittering agent. If you find the taste to be strange after doing a clean like this you may want to give the inside of the bowl/screen a quick ISO wash. I personally have never noticed an off taste after cleaning like this but I may not have the most sensitive palate, so your mileage may vary.
End warnings.
I promised I would detail how I clean my untrimmed double weave screens in the adjustabowls without removing them from the bowl itself, so here's the technique I use.
Note: I cannot guarantee this will work for the OG bowls/screens (though I'm not convinced it's necessary given how easily they seem come out), as they may fly out and be lost forever during the steps involving the computer duster, so don't say I didn't warn you.
For this, you will want a can of computer dust remover (or computer duster) and some safety glasses (or glasses generally, within reason, small lenses may not be very useful for protection), in addition to the usual suspects (paper towels/isopropyl alcohol). For the uninitiated this is a can of compressed air with a thin long straw you insert into the nozzle to get very precise and forceful airflow. Strictly speaking any air compressor with a thin nozzle could work, canned air is just the most easily and economically available solution. And you don't need much. I pick them up by the 3 pack (somewhere between $10/$15 USD) at Frys but can be found at office supply or electronics stores generally and I have yet to go through one over a few months of cleaning this way.
What I do is I remove the post and handle from the bowl, but leave the screen in. After doing so I hold the bowl and screen up to some light to look through it to get a sense of how much light is passing through, for reference later.
Soak the entire bowl/screen in ISO for however long you think you need (this may also be a good time to soak the post, but I usually find the screen needs cleaning long before the post does). No need to agitate anything, just put it in a baggy/container and let it sit, you'll do the agitation later in a rather dramatic fashion.
While you wait find a place, item, or receptacle you don't mind a bunch of brown vape residue getting on, and/or one that is easily cleaned (such as a sink). We will use this shortly. I personally use the lid to a jar I store ISO in, which is fairly wide and can then be put on top of the jar after the inside of the lid gets covered with residue and shaken up to remove the residue from the lid, but I'm sure more elegant solutions exist.
Now that you've let it sit for a while (I let it sit around 30 minutes), pull it out and use a towel of some sort to remove the excess ISO from the outside of the bowl, but leave the inside wet, it will partially evaporate by the time you get to the next steps in all likelihood.
Next take the bowl to that item place or receptacle, put on some glasses or safety glasses if you are worried about splashback (and there may be some, be warned), and point the TOP of the bowl (the part that mates with the coil nut) at the item place or receptacle, so that you should be looking at the bottom of the bowl and the item place or receptacle through the screen.
While keeping the bowl aimed, take the computer duster and aim the straw as parallel as possible to the sides of the bowl and position the end of the straw close to the bottom of the screen (not touching though), then pull the trigger. You should see the screen clearing up quite quickly in the general area around the straw. Move the duster/straw around the screen while blowing and this should blow a bunch of vape residue at whatever you were aiming the top of the bowl at, as well as the insides of the top of the bowl.
At this point, once you are pretty sure you've cleared the screen, hold the bowl/screen up to the light again and check for spots you may have missed. If you see some missed spots, dab some ISO onto that part of the screen repeat the duster process for that particular spot. Note that if this does not seem to be cleaning the screen, you may need to soak for longer and try again.
Once you are no longer seeing missed spots when you hold it up to the light, take a paper towel and wipe out the top side walls of the bowl which have probably gotten some residue on them now. You may need a little ISO on the towel to get it really clean.
Once this is done, reassemble and let dry thoroughly before use.
I do this every week or so and find that keeps things nice and clean for the amount of work required, especially since you don't need to remove the screen.
Of course, if anyone needs clarification pictures, let me know.
Some warnings about canned air, and a big thanks to VaporWare for reminding me that some warnings may be in order:
To add a few warnings for the uninformed since I figure I may as well cover all the bases:
1) Canned Air does contain gasses that are known to be asphyxiants, so in low ventilation environment repeated use over a period of time can replace breathable air in a manner dangerous to your health. As such, I agree with VaporWare's assessment that you probably shouldn't be using computer duster for vape cleaning constantly. That said, I work with computers and make use of duster frequently (though not every day) and in far greater output per session than described below for computer cleaning applications to no ill effects, so the key is being safe about ventilation and not using a ton of this stuff. If you are worried, do the duster step outside and you should not have any issues.
2) Hold the can as upright as possible while discharging the gas, if you hold the can at too extreme an angle (try to avoid angling the can more than 45 degrees from straight up and down, you'll know immediately if you've done it wrong) as this will cause the liquid form of the gas in the can to come out of the straw and this can cause freezer burns if it comes in contact with your skin.
3) The can will, with sustained discharge, begin to get cold and can get so cold that it freezes the condensation that starts to form on the outside of the can, though I've never gotten the can to do that with the amount of discharged when cleaning the bowl's screen, only with sustained computer dust blasting applications. Still, it's something to keep in mind if you decide to use the duster in other applications.
4) I had forgotten about this until I did a bit of supplemental googling, but due to sufficiently widespread abuse (extremely dangerous, but it happens), computer duster does contain a bittering agent. If you find the taste to be strange after doing a clean like this you may want to give the inside of the bowl/screen a quick ISO wash. I personally have never noticed an off taste after cleaning like this but I may not have the most sensitive palate, so your mileage may vary.
End warnings.
I promised I would detail how I clean my untrimmed double weave screens in the adjustabowls without removing them from the bowl itself, so here's the technique I use.
Note: I cannot guarantee this will work for the OG bowls/screens (though I'm not convinced it's necessary given how easily they seem come out), as they may fly out and be lost forever during the steps involving the computer duster, so don't say I didn't warn you.
For this, you will want a can of computer dust remover (or computer duster) and some safety glasses (or glasses generally, within reason, small lenses may not be very useful for protection), in addition to the usual suspects (paper towels/isopropyl alcohol). For the uninitiated this is a can of compressed air with a thin long straw you insert into the nozzle to get very precise and forceful airflow. Strictly speaking any air compressor with a thin nozzle could work, canned air is just the most easily and economically available solution. And you don't need much. I pick them up by the 3 pack (somewhere between $10/$15 USD) at Frys but can be found at office supply or electronics stores generally and I have yet to go through one over a few months of cleaning this way.
What I do is I remove the post and handle from the bowl, but leave the screen in. After doing so I hold the bowl and screen up to some light to look through it to get a sense of how much light is passing through, for reference later.
Soak the entire bowl/screen in ISO for however long you think you need (this may also be a good time to soak the post, but I usually find the screen needs cleaning long before the post does). No need to agitate anything, just put it in a baggy/container and let it sit, you'll do the agitation later in a rather dramatic fashion.
While you wait find a place, item, or receptacle you don't mind a bunch of brown vape residue getting on, and/or one that is easily cleaned (such as a sink). We will use this shortly. I personally use the lid to a jar I store ISO in, which is fairly wide and can then be put on top of the jar after the inside of the lid gets covered with residue and shaken up to remove the residue from the lid, but I'm sure more elegant solutions exist.
Now that you've let it sit for a while (I let it sit around 30 minutes), pull it out and use a towel of some sort to remove the excess ISO from the outside of the bowl, but leave the inside wet, it will partially evaporate by the time you get to the next steps in all likelihood.
Next take the bowl to that item place or receptacle, put on some glasses or safety glasses if you are worried about splashback (and there may be some, be warned), and point the TOP of the bowl (the part that mates with the coil nut) at the item place or receptacle, so that you should be looking at the bottom of the bowl and the item place or receptacle through the screen.
While keeping the bowl aimed, take the computer duster and aim the straw as parallel as possible to the sides of the bowl and position the end of the straw close to the bottom of the screen (not touching though), then pull the trigger. You should see the screen clearing up quite quickly in the general area around the straw. Move the duster/straw around the screen while blowing and this should blow a bunch of vape residue at whatever you were aiming the top of the bowl at, as well as the insides of the top of the bowl.
At this point, once you are pretty sure you've cleared the screen, hold the bowl/screen up to the light again and check for spots you may have missed. If you see some missed spots, dab some ISO onto that part of the screen repeat the duster process for that particular spot. Note that if this does not seem to be cleaning the screen, you may need to soak for longer and try again.
Once you are no longer seeing missed spots when you hold it up to the light, take a paper towel and wipe out the top side walls of the bowl which have probably gotten some residue on them now. You may need a little ISO on the towel to get it really clean.
Once this is done, reassemble and let dry thoroughly before use.
I do this every week or so and find that keeps things nice and clean for the amount of work required, especially since you don't need to remove the screen.
Of course, if anyone needs clarification pictures, let me know.
Last edited by a moderator:
HD Springer
Well-Known Member
I feel a cold cap will steal some heat. And a heated cap works good with out stealing any heat. But the shower cap works wonderfully uncapped and capped. To me it just adds some restrictions to the hit and that’s about all it does for me. At least the way I use it anyhow. This set up will performe no matter what the configuration your using is. It’s one of my favorite aspects to the FP. Sky’s the limit. Limit. Limit. That’s a funny word. Limit!!!!!!!
biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
I agree, and that is exactly why I go uncapped because it is so damn easy to load a bowl and take a rip. Still very happy I have the ti cap as it is a great little stand for my SS herb scoop. After reading this thread tonight I looked hard and serious at my ti cap and thought about it for a second...naw, it's not needed but that's just my opinion.
Fellas, we're talking about the Coil COVER, not carb cap
Justpassedu
Well-Known Member
Ty , yes coil cover it is . The Carb cap is already a proven theory .Fellas, we're talking about the Coil COVER, not carb cap
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
Coil cover isn't "needed" but it really helps keep temps stable imo. I loose much less heat when taking a draw with the coil cover on as opposed to with it off.
I'll also note that I was running my hexnail without a coil cover for a week or 2, and once I put the coil cover on I was able to drop my temps 20degrees and I only have to use glob mode if I'm slapping a huge dab in there now...
so my 2c is that the coil cover is a great help for stability and heat retention. it's $20, if you're trying to talk yourself out of spending $20 then just forget it exists?
I'll also note that I was running my hexnail without a coil cover for a week or 2, and once I put the coil cover on I was able to drop my temps 20degrees and I only have to use glob mode if I'm slapping a huge dab in there now...
so my 2c is that the coil cover is a great help for stability and heat retention. it's $20, if you're trying to talk yourself out of spending $20 then just forget it exists?
Justpassedu
Well-Known Member
Thanks muunch , i have had the exact same experience with my Hex nail and at $20 it's a cheap enough investment , plus it makes it all look allot nicer sitting on my table.
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
Yep, definitely looks better too, but for me the performance increase is worth the price. I consider it essential to my kit. After using my covered coil for months, trying to use the hexnail that did not have a cover, the difference was pretty easy to see. Everyone has their own preferences, and like some may enjoy using the carbcap for flowers, some may not like the cover for whatever reason.
I do think it's impossible for it to be robbing heat though? Wouldn't the rest of the mass from the WA/SH be robbing heat also then? Perhaps you just need to recalibrate your PID after putting the coil cover on there? I rarely notice a drop AT ALL now, but I'm also used to my setup.
Justpassedu
Well-Known Member
I don't think it is robbing heat. I also don't use my Sh that much these days , i use the Dnail Sic wrap around almost daily. I get a very small temp drop when taking a big hit but its back up quickly as this is normal bc i am drawing cool air through everything when hitting but i am sure you know this. Carb capping i personally feel is essential with lower temps but like you said everyone has there own preferences and i don't wanna open a can of
. The Fp works either way so its up to the user to do what they like. To each is own , temps should always drop though when taking a hit carb capped or not and coil cover or not . That Coil cover though just makes it less of drop for me using the hex like your self.
Vapetologist
HamsterDAMAGED
To flog a horse, that if not yet dead, is in mortal danger of expiring - Its basic thermodynamics! The more mass you can keep hot, the less temperature variance you will have as you draw air through it, and the faster the unit can rebound to your set temp. Also as everyone said, it also really improves the looks. I feel its perfectly fine to not purchase the coil cover, but once you get your setup, you're going to wish you had it...eventually.
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LAWTHEONE
CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
Hello I’m new to the forum! I was torn between the F/P & G/S and was leaning towards the G/S. It’s seem like there are a TON of happy F/P customers! After pages of reading and a lot of questions answered thanks to my new FC family I know I’m definitely investing in a F/P in a few weeks! Thanks FC I will post after my purchase at the end of the month!
HAPPY VAPING ALL!!!
HAPPY VAPING ALL!!!
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
Zow237
Well-Known Member
Justpassedu
Well-Known Member
I keep tabs on whats hot , and for awhile now the Liger was the hottest thing out for dabs , i tried one and while it worked great , personally i was already to happy with my Dnail wrap around Sic Halo Flowerpot to make the purchase. I also like that the Fp is a dual use vape while the liger is strictly dabbing. Plus reading the thread for the liger and hearing all the complaints is another thing that really drew me away. Inconsistent machining of parts is a constant issue which brings me back to this image :
I would still love something like this & i know Edwyn at NewVape having some of the top machining skills i have literally ever seen would knock it out of the park making this come to life. A 30mm and 20mm bucket option would just be amazing , personally i'd love a 30mm just bc of that large surface area and i think it would possibly sway some Liger users once they saw the quality and consistency New Vape puts into there work. I also would love my current Flower Pot uising the Dnail Sic Halo to have the same # of airflow holes as the Shower Head as well , that would be cool to try out. Just my rambling but Vas always gets me and i really don't want to buy a Liger so New Vape please try and make these dreams come true.
I would still love something like this & i know Edwyn at NewVape having some of the top machining skills i have literally ever seen would knock it out of the park making this come to life. A 30mm and 20mm bucket option would just be amazing , personally i'd love a 30mm just bc of that large surface area and i think it would possibly sway some Liger users once they saw the quality and consistency New Vape puts into there work. I also would love my current Flower Pot uising the Dnail Sic Halo to have the same # of airflow holes as the Shower Head as well , that would be cool to try out. Just my rambling but Vas always gets me and i really don't want to buy a Liger so New Vape please try and make these dreams come true.
SiC insert + Showerhead airflow + Quartz bowl 
The SiCerhead
That's what we all want, yeah?
The SiCerhead
That's what we all want, yeah?
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
I believe someone said that regarding the dabbing surface temps, but I think they just didn’t have the nut tightened or for some other reason their coil wasn’t making contact with the top of the coil cover.
Everything else I’ve seen indicates that it gives better performance through increased temperature stability, and I have good stability and no problems with it on. I’d still consider it an optional upgrade, but it’s one I wouldn’t pass up at $20 for performance or even just for looks.
Justpassedu
Well-Known Member
All good points but what everyone also has to keep in mind is this is not a portable vape or even a desktop made on a production line so there are variances , not with actual machined parts coming from NV in my experience but the Enails everyone is using and the coils . Not every Enail is going to give the same readings and performance and the same applies for the coils people are using. It is best to stick with a proven coil that works the best such as the ones New Vape used to design the machined parts around. I personally own a NewVape coil and it works well and my daily coil i use is not a New Vape coil but it took me buying about 4 different coils from different companies to find one that fits perfect and is compatible with my hex nail i use on the daily. One can always buy , wire and solder there own connectors to make the newvape coil work with there Enail , i personally just did not have the time so i have one i use with my other Enail.
Vapetologist
HamsterDAMAGED
Hopefully he is just enjoying a nice internet break, safely in the comfort of his own home.
I was in contact with him via pm early winter and he was talking about taking a backward seat in the thread, and fc generally.
But you are right- a fairly long absence.
@emmdeemo we hope you are alright, and they wanted me to say- we miss you come back any time, but as long as you are cool that is all that matters.
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Vaporware
Well-Known Member
Quick note about the cleaning guide from @RalphsBlend - it’s important to remember that most canned air is made up of things you don’t really want to breathe, so while his method is probably safe, I would be wary of for example spraying the screen with it between bowls since there’s more chance you’ll end up breathing that stuff in when you’re in the same location and you’re going straight from spraying it to inhaling deeply.
Otherwise, it sounds like a decent cleaning method for those without ultrasonic cleaners or a lot of patience for shaking iso containers.
Otherwise, it sounds like a decent cleaning method for those without ultrasonic cleaners or a lot of patience for shaking iso containers.
RalphsBlend
Well-Known Member
That's a good point, I would like to add a warning to the beginning of the post, but the edit limit is long past gone apparently.Quick note about the cleaning guide from @RalphsBlend - it’s important to remember that most canned air is made up of things you don’t really want to breathe, so while his method is probably safe, I would be wary of for example spraying the screen with it between bowls since there’s more chance you’ll end up breathing that stuff in when you’re in the same location and you’re going straight from spraying it to inhaling deeply.
Otherwise, it sounds like a decent cleaning method for those without ultrasonic cleaners or a lot of patience for shaking iso containers.
Can mods edit posts posthumously?
VaporScript
Well-Known Member
I too have missed @emmdeemo and his amazing work ethic. I just assumed his never-ending testing of the FP finally led him to Nirvana…we will just have to wait for him to return and grace us with his presence (and share the results of his last test)!
Hope he is well.
HengefulOne
Well-Known Member
I too was about to pick up a GS before Morty posted his FP setup in the classifieds. Im so glad I went with the FP, not gonna break and such a smaller package. Not to mention the performance, its a beast.
