Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

fak

The Dude
Yes! I use my VROD for flower most of the time, and also capped. I've kinda wished I had something I could affix to the top either in place of the dish, or over the dish, that acts like the carb cap but is secured in place. Then I'd only have to grab the FP handle and not reach over for the cap and place it every time.

Are you using it capped or uncapped? There are so many variables, but if you're using it uncapped and pulling hard, that might cause what you've explained to occur. Then again, I'm no expert and I'm new to the FP as of 2 months ago, but adding a cap and slowing the pull definitely lets you milk it more.
uncapped, if I go anywhere in the 600s it has to be capped or it doesn't really milk. the thing about the cap is once you get a good buzz going it's easy to forget to take it off, I've had a few times where I had to turn off the entire unit and forcefully remove it haha
 
fak,

tokenknifeguy

Well-Known Member
Was looking at getting a newvape, but is there much or that much difference between the auber RDK300, RDK200, or DC Micro? If price didn't matter, which would be the best and why? Also at the current price points, is there enough difference to warrant a higher price over the lower one? Thanks
 
tokenknifeguy,

androponic

vaped.

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
You can’t go wrong with the Auber 300b, it’s a work horse. Features are worth the small cost difference. Good luck!
 
RustyOldNail,
  • Like
Reactions: Ramahs

delta hotel

Well-Known Member
I originally ordered the NewVape controller and then asked to pay the difference for the Auber controller before it shipped. I want the cut off just in case, even though I have it set at something like 8 hours. I'm also a big sucker for rotary knobs. I can't comment on the NV controller, but the Auber has been great so far, and I have the NV cover/stand case on it.
 

710yota

Have you heard about the boom on Mizar 5?
I think I figured it out last night...lol I need to pull harder!!!! I was almost sipping on it, this thing demands air flow :D

I've ran into this myself where I actually haven't got as milky of hits as I was hoping for because I was focusing on drawing so slow. The herb is being heated by the air being drawn through the head, a harder pull means more air and then more heating to a extent until your pulling enough its just cooling everything down.
 

disGRUNTled

Well-Known Member
OG putting in work ..
IMG-2897.jpg

IMG-2898.jpg

 

Vapor Loop

Well-Known Member
The Sublimator is supposed to be up there but good luck getting a new one. I have been waiting for the torch powered one to be available myself for a few months.


I was just going to request @NewVape710 make a torch powered heater. I know they sell quality because i been using the same coil and controller daily for three years. The entire set up is so old not a single part is still made yet it all but the heater looks new.



The Elev8r is a heavy hitter and the Ssv with glass, quartz or ruby balls if you don't mind a whip.
 
Vapor Loop,

Alexis

Well-Known Member
Is there a harder hitting desktop on the market that is available than the Flower Pot?
Yes. The Verdamper. Hands down. I tell everybody. Some people listen. Most people agree.

Gosh that was longwinded wasn’t it? But I managed to answer, to the best of my own knowledge and experience, without the need for drama or a rant.
 

Vapor Loop

Well-Known Member
I realize i could just torch it but a dedicated torch only head with high temp handle would be pretty cool. At least this Native over here thinks so. I also realize anyone using there head and common sense would know what i'm talking about regarding the parts looking new.



The current bowls are a nice change was using a old stubby bowl for years. The Weedeater looks so nice on the current bowls i might just have to get one soon.



I love how people only talk down to me when i'm not rite there to do anything. That reminds me of the old Fc days and why this experienced vape user only joined in 2014.
 
Vapor Loop,

Alexis

Well-Known Member
I realize i could just torch it but a dedicated torch only head with high temp handle would be pretty cool. At least this Native over here thinks so. I also realize anyone using there head and common sense would know what i'm talking about regarding the parts looking new.



The current bowls are a nice change was using a old stubby bowl for years. The Weedeater looks so nice on the current bowls i might just have to get one soon.



I love how people only talk down to me when i'm not rite there to do anything. That reminds me of the old Fc days and why this experienced vape user only joined in 2014.
Well you beat me by about 6 months on that. I joined, partly on a quest to seek out the best, as in, gets you the absolute highest vaporizer, having sold my Verdamper due to it not being allergy friendly enough for me.

I didn’t fully appreciate back then how I had already been accustomed to the pinnacle of vaporizer highness.

But also it was the Vriptech Heat Wand I joined to learn more about, specifically.
 
Alexis,
Wow, thanks for bringing this up. I'd noticed the same dust and assumed it was other material, but I definitely see the polished parts. If you're using it for flower will putting terp pearls in the dish help still move the air around without spinning, or is that not enough?
Terp pearls definitely get things moving. I've only tried using one at a time but I do have multiple to play with. The downside is they are splashy, put a lot more material up on the cap and down the hole. I've been lifting and turning the cap instead of spinning it for now, but I may go back to playing with the pearls. If you don't have any pearls it's probably not worth picking up IMHO (and the opinions of some respected people here I should have listened to). They can still be useful for other things so not the worst pickup to play with, but dubious value overall.

Hmmm, I will look into it further. I can't agree with the statement that SiC is harder than Ti, so maybe its dust from the dish that you are seeing. But I will toy around with parts and see what I get.

Well I disagree with everyone else saying the powder is black, in my case it very clearly has that dull grey color of powdered titanium (google image search powdered titanium). Maybe the internet has failed me, but AFAIK the hardness scale to use for abrasion/scratching is mohs, silicon carbide is 9-10 (similar to diamond) and pure Ti is 6 (way softer). Also silicon carbide is a common used commercial Ti abrasive/polishing material (including for much harder Ti alloys), which is kind of exactly what we are doing here, grinding Ti on SiC. IMHO this would be very easy for you to test, you've got brand new and cleaned dishes and caps in stock, go grab a pair and grind em up on each other then ISO qtip wipe em, see what you get.
From all my knowledge of materials science (which admittedly is quite layman's) and personal experimentation, I can't help but conclude it's Ti dust. I can repeat this over and over with the same results, level of dish cleanliness does not seem to be a factor to me.

My concern is the SiC - the edge is noticeably polished and cleaning with a qtip in the dish yields a mostly amber qtip but towards the top of the dish it starts to leave a lot of solid black residue on the qtip. Even just touching the dish leaves black on my hand like I used a pencil
I'm pretty sure the dish has a bevel on the inside edge from the factory which I think is what you are seeing, I don't think it's SiC residue, see above. If you clean your dish and cap really well with ISO qtips so that no residue shows, then spin the cap on dish for a bit while cold, qtip it and can you look at the residue under a good light and tell me if it looks black or grey to you? I see the dull grey of Ti every time but maybe it's all in my head. I have the same observation re: amber residue for actual dab cleanup, and no dark dish edge residue if I don't spin the cap.
 
somethingcool,
  • Like
Reactions: fcmb

The Stray Fox

Separated from the group
Terp pearls definitely get things moving. I've only tried using one at a time but I do have multiple to play with. The downside is they are splashy, put a lot more material up on the cap and down the hole. I've been lifting and turning the cap instead of spinning it for now, but I may go back to playing with the pearls. If you don't have any pearls it's probably not worth picking up IMHO (and the opinions of some respected people here I should have listened to). They can still be useful for other things so not the worst pickup to play with, but dubious value overall.



Well I disagree with everyone else saying the powder is black, in my case it very clearly has that dull grey color of powdered titanium (google image search powdered titanium). Maybe the internet has failed me, but AFAIK the hardness scale to use for abrasion/scratching is mohs, silicon carbide is 9-10 (similar to diamond) and pure Ti is 6 (way softer). Also silicon carbide is a common used commercial Ti abrasive/polishing material (including for much harder Ti alloys), which is kind of exactly what we are doing here, grinding Ti on SiC. IMHO this would be very easy for you to test, you've got brand new and cleaned dishes and caps in stock, go grab a pair and grind em up on each other then ISO qtip wipe em, see what you get.
From all my knowledge of materials science (which admittedly is quite layman's) and personal experimentation, I can't help but conclude it's Ti dust. I can repeat this over and over with the same results, level of dish cleanliness does not seem to be a factor to me.


I'm pretty sure the dish has a bevel on the inside edge from the factory which I think is what you are seeing, I don't think it's SiC residue, see above. If you clean your dish and cap really well with ISO qtips so that no residue shows, then spin the cap on dish for a bit while cold, qtip it and can you look at the residue under a good light and tell me if it looks black or grey to you? I see the dull grey of Ti every time but maybe it's all in my head. I have the same observation re: amber residue for actual dab cleanup, and no dark dish edge residue if I don't spin the cap.
This is the nature of the beast. I get Ti dust on my cap from spinning and Ti dust bulilds up on the ground glass joints I use the NV Ti bowl with. There are techniques to minimize this but others and my way to mitigate the issue is to use water to filter out any potential dust.
 

delta hotel

Well-Known Member
Is this an OK place to ask what glass you guys like to use with your FlowerPot? I started using a Grav coil showerhead (https://grav.com/products/12-grav-coil-showerhead-water-pipe-clear) that I liked, but was curious about a matrix perc to try and ordered a cheap clone (first time).

Aside from the Matrix 18mm joint being a little too big (the post rocks a LITTLE), it seems to be a little too airy, maybe I need to add water. I thought about trying one of the smaller matrix sidecar bubblers instead of the full stereo matrix bong, but I don't know if it'll be just as airy, so I figured I'd ask here before I ordered one. I've seen conflicting ideas about whether a bong or a bubbler works best with this device (volume vs. size). I have several smaller Grav bubblers (slush cup/coffee mug) but it felt like the FP head was too close to my face in some cases.

What I have may be what I stick with, but I suppose I was just looking for or open to suggestions, though it's all personal preference, maybe someone will recommend my new favorite piece of glass!

EDIT: I'd also add that where I could usually finish the amount with the Grav piece in one pull, and at most I'd could go back in and darken it a little more for a final touch. With the new piece and the matrix perc, it seems to take several more to get to the same color. While I mentioned the post wobbled a little, and it's very very very little. Like just barely a little. I don't know that that would be the entire reason for that. Just a thought.
 
Last edited:

Vapefanatic

Well-Known Member
Is this an OK place to ask what glass you guys like to use with your FlowerPot? I started using a Grav coil showerhead (https://grav.com/products/12-grav-coil-showerhead-water-pipe-clear) that I liked, but was curious about a matrix perc to try and ordered a cheap clone (first time).

Aside from the Matrix 18mm joint being a little too big (the post rocks a LITTLE), it seems to be a little too airy, maybe I need to add water. I thought about trying one of the smaller matrix sidecar bubblers instead of the full stereo matrix bong, but I don't know if it'll be just as airy, so I figured I'd ask here before I ordered one. I've seen conflicting ideas about whether a bong or a bubbler works best with this device (volume vs. size). I have several smaller Grav bubblers (slush cup/coffee mug) but it felt like the FP head was too close to my face in some cases.

What I have may be what I stick with, but I suppose I was just looking for or open to suggestions, though it's all personal preference, maybe someone will recommend my new favorite piece of glass!

EDIT: I'd also add that where I could usually finish the amount with the Grav piece in one pull, and at most I'd could go back in and darken it a little more for a final touch. With the new piece and the matrix perc, it seems to take several more to get to the same color. While I mentioned the post wobbled a little, and it's very very very little. Like just barely a little. I don't know that that would be the entire reason for that. Just a thought.
The post is not supposed to rock. Watch the video on it. You're supposed to fit it yourself onto each glass you use. Watch the video. It'll make sense. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you mean?
 
Vapefanatic,

delta hotel

Well-Known Member
The post is not supposed to rock. Watch the video on it. You're supposed to fit it yourself onto each glass you use. Watch the video. It'll make sense. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you mean?
I have the 14mm post, and it fits into all of my Grav pieces fine with no wobble. I bought the 18mm post to use with this piece, and I have an 18mm drop down, both wobble just a little bit, the drop down more than the post. I'm referring to wobbling in the joint on the piece, not the shovelhead. I assume it's because this is a cheaper clone, first clone glass I've ever bought and now I see why, though it's far from terrible.
@delta hotel I've used these and prefer the 50mm version of #1 - I like the form factor. In my experience draw speed and water level have a big effect on how thick a hit is, and a not-exactly-perfect seal on a joint doesn't matter much.
  1. Monark ball perc
  2. FC-UFO
  3. GRAV beaker
Yeah, it's not a PERFECT seal but I'd say clone enough, I didn't think it mattered that much. I did add a little more water and it hits a little better, but I'm still not quite able to cash a bowl like I am with other pieces, maybe it's an 18mm thing, this is the first time I've ever used the FP on an 18mm joint, or maybe 18mm all together. I'll check those pieces out though, thanks!
 

Vapefanatic

Well-Known Member
I have the 14mm post, and it fits into all of my Grav pieces fine with no wobble. I bought the 18mm post to use with this piece, and I have an 18mm drop down, both wobble just a little bit, the drop down more than the post. I'm referring to wobbling in the joint on the piece, not the shovelhead. I assume it's because this is a cheaper clone, first clone glass I've ever bought and now I see why, though it's far from terrible.

Yeah, it's not a PERFECT seal but I'd say clone enough, I didn't think it mattered that much. I did add a little more water and it hits a little better, but I'm still not quite able to cash a bowl like I am with other pieces, maybe it's an 18mm thing, this is the first time I've ever used the FP on an 18mm joint, or maybe 18mm all together. I'll check those pieces out though, thanks!
Have you watched the NV video on how to assemble bowl and post?
 
Vapefanatic,
Top Bottom