Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

[710yota]

I occasionally have my adjust-a-bowl stick or what was more common is that the joint would get loose when I tapped my bowls out and make the bowl have a bit of play in my rig. I've found that sticking a small piece of metal through the hole in the handle and using that to really wrench it tight solves these issues

 

[RustyOldNail]

The trick to the “adjust-a-bowl”, is to add something THIN between the bowl and the glass joint BEFORE you tighten the rod. An index card, piece of tape, something THIN. Then after you tighten up, there is a tiny bit of play, and the bowl won’t stick at all.

 

[thevapist]

I occasionally have my adjust-a-bowl stick or what was more common is that the joint would get loose when I tapped my bowls out and make the bowl have a bit of play in my rig. I've found that sticking a small piece of metal through the hole in the handle and using that to really wrench it tight solves these issues

This is actually the recommended way of doing it per the setup video.

The trick to the “adjust-a-bowl”, is to add something THIN between the bowl and the glass joint BEFORE you tighten the rod. An index card, piece of tape, something THIN. Then after you tighten up, there is a tiny bit of play, and the bowl won’t stick at all.

Could be dependent on the piece being used? I don't really have this issue. I find the ti/glass bowls both "stick" the same, which seems normal for how hot they get compared to a normal bong slide with a cherry going. If I take 2-3 rips in succession, the bowl will be way hotter than any traditional slide will ever get. I'd say a veeeeeery small percentage of time I need to use two hands to get the bowl out.

If I were to leave the heater head on the bowl for an extended amount of time, I could see it though. Maybe this is worth doing if that's how you use it.

 

[RustyOldNail]

This is actually the recommended way of doing it per the setup video.



Could be dependent on the piece being used? I don't really have this issue. I find the ti/glass bowls both "stick" the same, which seems normal for how hot they get compared to a normal bong slide with a cherry going. If I take 2-3 rips in succession, the bowl will be way hotter than any traditional slide will ever get. I'd say a veeeeeery small percentage of time I need to use two hands to get the bowl out.

If I were to leave the heater head on the bowl for an extended amount of time, I could see it though. Maybe this is worth doing if that's how you use it.

If you get any sticking, try the hack, that’s why I posted it, not my idea, but it works because as you noted things EXPAND when they get hot.

 

[thevapist]

I don't get it enough to bring an extra step into the equation. Are you sure you're not letting more air in as well? The adjust-a-bowl already let's some air in due to the design.

I just did some testing and sticking seems to be mostly due to the weight of the head pushing down on the bowl. My NV glass bowl also sticks more than the adjust-a-bowl, which doesn't stick at all. But the spacing trick won't work with the glass bowl. This is also just for my setup/pieces.

If I hold the heater head on the glass bowl for 3 minutes while not letting the weight rest on the bowl, it doesn't stick at all. The bowl is HOT at this point.

Same test but letting the head rest on the bowl as normal, it will stick instantly sometimes while still cold. This to me says it's mostly a matter of the weight pushing the male stem down into the hole real good. I can also get it to stick pretty dang well just by putting some pressure on the bowl with my hand.

If I leave the heater on the adjust-a-bowl long enough that it gets fully heat soaked, it will usually stick. Not sure why anyone would ever do that, though.

When something gets stuck due to heat, it usually gets really stuck and essentially has to cool down to be removed. From my understanding, this was what happened with the OG bowl and I could see it happening if you left the heater on the bowl like some people do. Doesn't seem to be what is happening on my end.

I think the fact the glass bowl sticks more is just due to sandblasted on sandblasted contact in my setup. The adjust-a-bowl doesn't really stick, but I also doesn't leave the heater on the bowl. I don't think anyone should do that. The two-piece design allows you to take a few rips before the bottom portion that connects to your rig gets hot enough to expand to a point of sticking, then remove it to the stand until the next use. I am actually very surprised to see that some people leave their heater on the bowl. Do you guys not own a stand?

If you leave the heater on the bowl too long, you are basically replicating the one piece issue. Two-piece just slows down the transfer to the bottom male/female connector.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I don't get it enough to bring an extra step into the equation. Are you sure you're not letting more air in as well? The adjust-a-bowl already let's some air in due to the design.

I just did some testing and sticking seems to be mostly due to the weight of the head pushing down on the bowl. My NV glass bowl also sticks more than the adjust-a-bowl, which doesn't stick at all. But the spacing trick won't work with the glass bowl. This is also just for my setup/pieces.

If I hold the heater head on the glass bowl for 3 minutes while not letting the weight rest on the bowl, it doesn't stick at all. The bowl is HOT at this point.

Same test but letting the head rest on the bowl as normal, it will stick instantly sometimes while still cold. This to me says it's mostly a matter of the weight pushing the male stem down into the hole real good. I can also get it to stick pretty dang well just by putting some pressure on the bowl with my hand.

If I leave the heater on the adjust-a-bowl long enough that it gets fully heat soaked, it will usually stick. Not sure why anyone would ever do that, though.

When something gets stuck due to heat, it usually gets really stuck and essentially has to cool down to be removed. From my understanding, this was what happened with the OG bowl and I could see it happening if you left the heater on the bowl like some people do. Doesn't seem to be what is happening on my end.

I think the fact the glass bowl sticks more is just due to sandblasted on sandblasted contact in my setup. The adjust-a-bowl doesn't really stick, but I also doesn't leave the heater on the bowl. I don't think anyone should do that. The two-piece design allows you to take a few rips before the bottom portion that connects to your rig gets hot enough to expand to a point of sticking, then remove it to the stand until the next use. I am actually very surprised to see that some people leave their heater on the bowl. Do you guys not own a stand?

If you leave the heater on the bowl too long, you are basically replicating the one piece issue. Two-piece just slows down the transfer to the bottom male/female connector.

Nothing to do with the glass bowl. No air loss. Far too simple to waste words on, this technique was actually in one of the NV videos, I’ll post it if I find it. Moving on now....

 

[BlueHueCO]

Thanks for the kind words. I was running at 570F and I think I could have gone lower. I have the ti tip ccd screen set in the middle notch and it was toasting the herbs no problem. It doesn’t seal like a Woodscents, if you are familiar, but with minimal effort it lines up just fine. It’s been mentioned before here but you can also just do it more traditional log style. I don’t really mess with concentrates much and I’m sure glad I went with the Vrod over the Weedeater.

Sure thing brother, and thank you for the reply. Great info indeed.

As far as a the adjust-a-bowl debate, I employ a similar technique to RustyOldNail. I barely snug the handle to the post. Just enough to allow me to pull out the bowl without loosening the handle. Then I hold the bowl horizontal, and I slowly loosen the handle. I give the post a very gentle tap, and snug the handle with a elev8 marble pick. I test it by placing on a water rig and covering it with my hand. Never leaks. Never sticks. It's a natural process that I could do in my sleep. I change water pieces often for rotational cleaning.

 

[RustyOldNail]

2017 - NewVape Adjust-a-Bowl video:

Edwin shows micro adjustment with “tape” at 3 minute mark. You may not need this extra install tip, but test how well the bowl comes off when hot, if you like to clear your rig after a toke.

 

[Summer]

Edwin shows micro adjustment with “tape” at 3 minute mark.

I'd be surprised if 3/1000 of an inch gap is gonna cause air loss.

 

[EmDeemo]

I'd be surprised if 3/1000 of an inch gap is gonna cause air loss.

Plus it'd soon be filled with an imperceptible layer of reclaim.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I'd be surprised if 3/1000 of an inch gap is gonna cause air loss.

I have no air loss at all.

 

[EmDeemo]

I have no air loss at all.

IIRC, version one of the adjustabowl had an air leak, due to the implementation of the handle/screw.

It was completely fixed in version two.

 

[RustyOldNail]

IIRC, version one of the adjustabowl had an air leak, due to the implementation of the handle/screw.

It was completely fixed in version two.

Thanks, guess I have a V2.

 

[JCruiser]

I just got mt vrod FP from the 4/20 sale. Ive been a long time user of the sublimator and the original cloud before that (i didnt like the Cloud EVo). My goal is the biggest hits/fastest extraction and i wasnt sure if the FP could hold up to the Sub. Well, so far ive been extremely happy with the performance of the FP. It hits just as hard as the sub, is was easier to clean and heats up a ton faster.

Now, i have been keeping the carb cap on and hot before i take a hit. Its way too airy without it, and it lessens the hit if its not pre heated. I wish they made a screw on carb for the FP. it would add extra mass for big hit and could have adjustable carbs. Leaving the hot carb on the vrod is a little sketchy and not something i would do with other people around. a screw on carb would fix that and could easily be swapped out for the dish when needed.

as for the sticking bowls, ive been using a 18mm->18mm adapter. I dont know if its heat or pressure causing it to stick, but the bottom 18mm never sticks. its also a lot more convenient when dumping the bowl, so i dont have to hold the hot part.

 

[EmDeemo]

Once the carb cap is warm, it will take quite some time to cool down to completely cold, and once warm, it will heat up to the temp of the FP head REALLY quickly again.

Basically, once warm, you can take the carb cap off between hits and not lose any of the 'pre heated' carb cap benefits. No need to leave the cap on and let it get super burning hot.

EDIT: Also, if youre finding it too airy with flower, slow your draw down, theres a chance you're going waaaaaaay too fast.

 

[Radiohead]

My Flowerpot Showerhead should arrive any day now, so exited !

I just got it! Jesus Christ the shipping was SO FAST, amazing!

 

[Gigsabits53]

I don't know if this has happened to anyone else, but my other vapes have been getting used less and less since I bought my FP. I do like variety in vaping but it's damn hard to pick my Vapcap, Lotus, Brick, etc when I have the VROD sitting right here.

 

[Ramahs]

I don't know if this has happened to anyone else, but my other vapes have been getting used less and less since I bought my FP. I do like variety in vaping but it's damn hard to pick my Vapcap, Lotus, Brick, etc when I have the VROD sitting right here.

I couldn't agree with you more right now. I received a pretty hand-made Dynavap stem in the mail the other day that I'd ordered...but I haven't used it yet because my Flowerpot honeymoon phase is in full-frontal effect right now.

In fact, this is what I'm doing right now, as I just sat down for a Flowerpot and videogame session in the warm light of the sun coming in through the window on this fine Sunday afternoon:

 

[Gigsabits53]

I couldn't agree with you more right now. I received a pretty hand-made Dynavap stem in the mail the other day that I'd ordered...but I haven't used it yet because my Flowerpot honeymoon phase is in full-frontal effect right now.

In fact, this is what I'm doing right now, as I just sat down for a Flowerpot and videogame session in the warm light of the sun coming in through the window on this fine Sunday afternoon:

The honeymoon lasts a long time apparently. I've had mine since last July and I love it more and more every day. It just hits so hard with very minimal to no effort at all. Just an amazing device!

Enjoy that new toy @Ramahs !

 

[Radiohead]

Can you guys give me tips about using the carb cap with a flower on SH?

 

[The Stray Fox]

@Radiohead welcome to the party. Did you see @emmdeemo comment/tips on using the carb cap 6 posts back? Please don’t take that as being snarky. It was good advice and I don’t want you to miss out. I wish I could help but I have been achieving bliss without the cap. What are you trying to achieve? Big clouds, flavor, low temps, fast extraction, etc?

 

[cvs8floz]

[QUOTE="JCruiser, post: 1474984, member: 12577"
Now, i have been keeping the carb cap on and hot before i take a hit. Its way too airy without it, and it lessens the hit if its not pre heated. I wish they made a screw on carb for the FP. it would add extra mass for big hit and could have adjustable carbs. Leaving the hot carb on the vrod is a little sketchy and not something i would do with other people around. a screw on carb would fix that and could easily be swapped out for the dish when needed.[/QUOTE]

My experience is very similar, i like to preheat and always use carb cap which kind of precariously sits on top of WeedEater, they made 1 carb cap to fit both VRod and WeedEater and the fit ain't great, I have had it fall off many times. Edwin doesn't think a carb cap is needed, he says so in every video NV instructional video I have seen, so I don't expect much innovation to come in that respect.

 

[Ramahs]

I’ve found no use for the carb cap when vaping flower only.

I suspect some may like using it with flower because the resistance helps them hit it slower. I however hate the resistance. I have no problem inhaling that slow without the resistance helping to control the pull.

I could understand using the carb cap if I had lung issues that prevented me from making long slow pulls without the resistance from the card cap, but I don’t. And I greatly appreciate the open airway that allows my lung muscles full control.

 

[cvs8floz]

I’ve found no use for the carb cap when vaping flower only.

I suspect some may like using it with flower because the resistance helps them hit it slower. I however hate the resistance. I have no problem inhaling that slow without the resistance helping to control the pull.

I could understand using the carb cap if I had lung issues that prevented me from making long slow pulls without the resistance from the card cap, but I don’t. And I greatly appreciate the open airway that allows my lung muscles full control.

I don't find the additional resistance bothersome, it's nothing like the Firefly 2 where every hit is a workout for your lungs. For me, it's the difference between being able to sip and take 5 second draws with the cap on, and long 10+ second draws where you are sucking air for the first 3-5 seconds before any vapor forms without the cap. Over time, the long draws will irritate your throat more and lead to more coughing IMO.

 

[EmDeemo]

Just cap for that initial hit to get things going, and then either take it off between hits, or just dont use it for the rest of the session. There are solutions other than just leaving the cap on thru the session.

Slowing your draw slightly to find the exact correct draw speed for the FP and your choice of glass will yield great results.

Edwin doesn't think a carb cap is needed, he says so in every video NV instructional video I have seen, so I don't expect much innovation to come in that respect.

Tbf fair to NewVape, the majority of users that report back here dont use the carb cap for flower.

For the record, I used to cap flower all the time btw.