Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

[Bumping Spheda]

Heh, the silicone still gets plenty hot, trust me. It's not going to work how you think it will.

Aw, don't tell me that. Welp. I guess I'll see how this goes, already purchased the SS scoop with silicone.

I will admit, I'm a bit skeptical by your claims, though. It takes a while for the un-insulated dabber tool to get hot, and I don't find that the insulated handle on the shovel head bowl gets that hot. How long do you heat soak? The vcap gets hot pretty fast, no?

 

[MAbud]

Anyone played around with the different airflow VROD caps on the WE? I have the original 1 hole design but wondering if the 3 or 4 would be more evenly dispersed when dealing with flower?

 

[Zangano Cruel]

Anyone played around with the different airflow VROD caps on the WE? I have the original 1 hole design but wondering if the 3 or 4 would be more evenly dispersed when dealing with flower?

I wouldn’t sweat it so much.
I use all of them caps, on the WE.
OG VROD 1 hole cap.
2nd revision VROD 2 angled holes cap.
D-Cup cap.
If there’s a difference, it’s very small.
Nothing that will make, an absolute big difference, imho, between caps.
And using a cap, helps in many ways, pros & cons.
Stay vaped.

 

[Warmaniac_209]

Heh, the silicone still gets plenty hot, trust me. It's not going to work how you think it will. I got one of these with the VROD kit and tried this.

The wooden handle is amazing. There is a reason it's the price it is. It's extremely well built, and yes, you can leave it on there for hours and still pick it up just fine.

When it comes to New Vape, make no compromises!

exactly as i suspected, anyway, its the kind of thing you buy once, after, you move it to the carb cap in use.

Edit : after a few hour of utilisation of my brand new VRod, i just noticed that the Coil sold by Newvape, their own only have 4 wrap, is it a revision, didi'nt they need 5 wrap to be the most effective, now i have a giganormous wiggle in the head unit, and i cant seem to be able to achieve a stable temp at the SiC dish, and as i say, its a brand new Newvape genuine controller + coil. someone already experienced something like this ?

Edit 2 : i tryed the method to spread the coil a little bit with a flat screwdriver, but i dont want to ruin the thermocouple in the coil, and im a the point i dont feel confortable enough to continue to spread them. very frustrating indeed...

 

[started@52]

Got a little portability going on tonight. Look how nice this glass piece fits, lol.

 

[YaMon]

Got a little portability going on tonight. Look how nice this glass piece fits, lol.

How many watts is that UPS and how much run time do you get out this setup?

 

[started@52]

How many watts is that UPS and how much run time do you get out this setup?

200w 42000mah, maybe 3-4 hours but I don’t run it real long, I’ll just do a session and shut it down. It’s overkill for an around the house portable vape, lol. Kind of dangerous to walk around with. I use a tray to move it most of the time.

 

[YaMon]

200w 42000mah, maybe 3-4 hours but I don’t run it real long, I’ll just do a session and shut it down. It’s overkill for an around the house portable vape, lol. Kind of dangerous to walk around with. I use a tray to move it most of the time.

Ever since I saw this I’ve been looking at inexpensive UPS with removable power cords. I have two 1500 Watt and one 1000 Watt UPS, but do not care to carry those around.

 

[nodrog]

Ever since I saw a post here last week about using the Weedeater with *no* water, I've been experimenting. A long time ago the Arizer company discouraged me from buying a "water tool" for the Solo II, saying they felt it decreased the effect. I've used that vape a bunch with and without water, not really noticing much difference (caveat: lots of water definitely decreases the effect).

Like everyone here, I've been using the WE with water in the bong. But, now I'm appreciating what seem to be improved quality of effect and improved potency with not using water. If the goal is to cool the vapor, then a sufficiently large or long dry glass path should work too. Hooked up a dropdown to the Mobius Binary Matrix and I've been using it dry to my delight. I find it's more challenging to get just the right draw than with water in the pipe, but I'm genuinely liking this experiment.

Right now, running about a 1/4-1/2 shovelhead (lightly dumped in, not packed) at 670 degrees. Takes 6-7 hits before the bowl is all browned. It's a more delicate, nuanced way to use cannabis, but I'm really digging it. No big cloudy/milky puffs, but wow the efficacy is great!

I've been fantasizing about having this setup: a plastic mold about the size of a can of soda, to freeze ice in a small cylinder. Then, a very simple pipe: a long glass tube with a 14 mm joint in one end and the mouthpiece on the other. It will be made to wrap multiple times closely around a cylinder between the joint and the mouthpiece. So, you take a prepared ice cylinder out of the freezer, set it inside the glass coil, wait a minute or so and voila! A very cool dry hit. Soon as it melts substantially, replace as needed with another frozen cylinder. I might actually approach a glassblower about this one.

 

[EmDeemo]

Ever since I saw a post here last week about using the Weedeater with *no* water, I've been experimenting. A long time ago the Arizer company discouraged me from buying a "water tool" for the Solo II, saying they felt it decreased the effect. I've used that vape a bunch with and without water, not really noticing much difference (caveat: lots of water definitely decreases the effect).

Like everyone here, I've been using the WE with water in the bong. But, now I'm appreciating what seem to be improved quality of effect and improved potency with not using water. If the goal is to cool the vapor, then a sufficiently large or long dry glass path should work too. Hooked up a dropdown to the Mobius Binary Matrix and I've been using it dry to my delight. I find it's more challenging to get just the right draw than with water in the pipe, but I'm genuinely liking this experiment.

Right now, running about a 1/4-1/2 shovelhead (lightly dumped in, not packed) at 670 degrees. Takes 6-7 hits before the bowl is all browned. It's a more delicate, nuanced way to use cannabis, but I'm really digging it. No big cloudy/milky puffs, but wow the efficacy is great!

I've been fantasizing about having this setup: a plastic mold about the size of a can of soda, to freeze ice in a small cylinder. Then, a very simple pipe: a long glass tube with a 14 mm joint in one end and the mouthpiece on the other. It will be made to wrap multiple times closely around a cylinder between the joint and the mouthpiece. So, you take a prepared ice cylinder out of the freezer, set it inside the glass coil, wait a minute or so and voila! A very cool dry hit. Soon as it melts substantially, replace as needed with another frozen cylinder. I might actually approach a glassblower about this one.

Or one can go best of both worlds, and use a Rattle Can

 

[nodrog]

Or one can go best of both worlds, and use a Rattle Can

Are you suggesting freezing a rattle can with water in it? Wouldn't that break the glass? I used to have one, was noisy AF and I gave it away, but that was before I discovered vaping flower.

 

[EmDeemo]

Are you suggesting freezing a rattle can with water in it? Wouldn't that break the glass? I used to have one, was noisy AF and I gave it away, but that was before I discovered vaping flower.

Ah, sorry no, I was being slightly facetious, very high, and I think posted halfway through having a conversation with myself that no one else could possibly hear

Rattle Can is great for having very little diffusion and the vapour is going thru very little water, so there is lots of saving flavour. Thats what I meant about best of both worlds.

 

[nodrog]

Ah, sorry no, I was being slightly facetious, very high, and I think posted halfway through having a conversation with myself that no one else could possibly hear

Rattle Can is great for having very little diffusion and the vapour is going thru very little water, so there is lots of saving flavour. Thats what I meant about best of both worlds.

Ah, yeah, not quite my goal. I had one of those Bates/Worm external-arm versions and liked it, but like I said, it was so noisy I gave it away (to my son, actually). I'm really interested in a low-tech way to easily have a water-free chilled vapor path.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

I've been fantasizing about having this setup: a plastic mold about the size of a can of soda, to freeze ice in a small cylinder.

Have you seen those removable, glycerin filled, coils that you can freeze and they cool the vapor dry. Might be up your alley.

 

[triskelion]

rob some menthol to your material old school

 

[Bumping Spheda]

Idk why the pic is rotated, but okay.

Got the insulated SS shovel in the mail today. PID set to 687F, left the vcap and SS shovel on Vrod to heat soak for ten minutes straight, still, even the shovel is only warm, I can touch the shovel, bare metal, with my fingers without any hint of discomfort, it's only warm. I could easily chop the rubber insulator tube in half, and then cut some notches into the SS shaft with a hack saw to decrease thermal flow through the shaft some (grooves might also act as heat sink fins), but I think modification is unnecessary as the vcap reachs temp within a minute or so, and the shovel seemed to equalize after about 5 minutes. I kept coming back to check up on it every minute or so and after some point it just seemed to stop getting hotter and it never got out of control. Even the uninsulated dabber tools, if you grab near where you put your dab it doesn't seem to get that hot at all, ime. YMMV.

 

[started@52]

Idk why the pic is rotated, but okay.

Got the insulated SS shovel in the mail today. PID set to 687F, left the vcap and SS shovel on Vrod to heat soak for ten minutes straight, still, even the shovel is only warm, I can touch the shovel, bare metal, with my fingers without any hint of discomfort, it's only warm. I could easily chop the rubber insulator tube in half, and then cut some notches into the SS shaft with a hack saw to decrease thermal flow through the shaft some (grooves might also act as heat sink fins), but I think modification is unnecessary as the vcap reachs temp within a minute or so, and the shovel seemed to equalize after about 5 minutes. I kept coming back to check up on it every minute or so and after some point it just seemed to stop getting hotter and it never got out of control. Even the uninsulated dabber tools, if you grab near where you put your dab it doesn't seem to get that hot at all, ime. YMMV.

Ten ten minutes is not really a heat soak compared to leaving it on all day. I can barely touch my stand base after a few hours. If that’s all you do it should work great for you but I wouldn’t leave it on top much more then that. If I left my cap on all day it would be purple, lol.

 

[bizwaxzion]

Ten ten minutes is not really a heat soak compared to leaving it on all day. I can barely touch my stand base after a few hours. If that’s all you do it should work great for you but I wouldn’t leave it on top much more then that. If I left my cap on all day it would be purple, lol.

The base under my WE is around 105 degrees when heat soaked says the IR gun - I built a wooden 'coaster' for it to sit in. What temp do I need to run the WE at to turn it blue? Auber is on 640F - 675F for hours at a time and it's a nice golden color - or does it just need more time?

 

[started@52]

The base under my WE is around 105 degrees when heat soaked says the IR gun - I built a wooden 'coaster' for it to sit in. What temp do I need to run the WE at to turn it blue? Auber is on 640F - 675F for hours at a time and it's a nice golden color - or does it just need more time?

105° after 10 mins sure, check it again after two hours, lol. I also have the solid post, the new hollow ones might keep the base cooler.

Just time will grow the colors. Not sure if heat cycles effect that in any way or not though.

 

[bizwaxzion]

105° after 10 mins sure, check it again after two hours, lol. I also have the solid post, the new hollow ones might keep the base cooler.

Just time will grow the colors. Not sure if heat cycles effect that in any way or not though.

Measurement was after 4 hours of run time on the solid post. I can rest my fingers on base, but I wanted to isolate that warmth from the surface under the stand.

 

[EmDeemo]

What temp do I need to run the WE at to turn it blue?

I dont remember temps/colours for the controller, but you could always take the coil out and then take a torch to the WE head if you really want more colour

I did that with both my SH and VRod heads.

 

[Vaporware]

I dont remember temps/colours for the controller, but you could always take the coil out and then take a torch to the WE head if you really want more colour

I did that with both my SH and VRod heads.

Time can make up for temp, and even if you torch it to the color you want it’ll keep changing over time. Slowly if you’re at low temps, but my ShowerHead turned blue after being in most of the year even though it was only in the 550-600f range at least 99% of the time.

 

[started@52]

Measurement was after 4 hours of run time on the solid post. I can rest my fingers on base, but I wanted to isolate that warmth from the surface under the stand.

Small base or big base? My big base isn’t as bad, I can touch the small base, doesn’t actually burn but it’s not something I like to handle for very long.

Haha, I just checked the WiFi remote outlet app I use my FP on. Didn’t know it kept track of this stuff. 17 hours a day average lol!

 

[YaMon]

It's my belief the reason the FlowerPot excels, is it's ability to heat lots of air and subsequently my Cannabis super quickly! So are you guys attempting to shorten that time by preheating? I'm not so sure I want to precondition my herb? Seems like a lot more work and more hot surface area to burn myself on.. touch wood.

 

[bizwaxzion]

Time can make up for temp, and even if you torch it to the color you want it’ll keep changing over time. Slowly if you’re at low temps, but my ShowerHead turned blue after being in most of the year even though it was only in the 550-600f range at least 99% of the time.

ok - I'll just keep doing what I'm doing.

Small base or big base? My big base isn’t as bad, I can touch the small base, doesn’t actually burn but it’s not something I like to handle for very long.

Basic safety stand - I think the one in your picture?
Edit : I'm nowhere near 17H/day on time