Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
... and me! LOL!!!
wildman420
The Most Interesting Monkey in the World
Bought a weed eater head and a DCup, flat coil, DCup accessories, a double enail controller. I am pretty much a completist. I think I literally have one of almost everything. I currently have 2 VRods. One in the garage and one in the house. I have the battery and chassis Hooked to the one in garage. I am addicted to New Vape.
I must say... im impressed with your collection. Glad you're enjoying the products!
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your answers @VaporWare.
I get along witb degummed hemp as well as I get along with scotch tape.But it is an option. Although I will probably go @Baron23's route & go screenless. But as I'd like to have the screen option, I need to know if the ti are the screens to buy or if there are others that are preferable.
You're right. I said FP, but didn't specify SH. I just assumed you'd know.I will find out from @NewVape710 if the basic carb cap will fit the SH well enough for light, infrequent dabbing. If not, I'll stick with the dedicated cap.
I won't be changing temps frequently, but if during all of my 4 hitsyet. I don't even know yet if you can turn the controller down like the enano & let it run over 4 hours or better to turn it off & on again 2 hours later. I want whatever controller is better to work with & has a lesser failure rate.
@NewVape710, how long is the Auber warranty? And are controller warranties transferrable?
Since this thread started 11/16, any suggestions as to what point I should jump in & starting reading this thread?
We microdosers never do anything crazy.
I started from the beginning and went through it all...if you decide to, consider suggesting the best posts for a new Best Of thread!
You can certainly turn the temp down and leave it on, or even leave it at temp if you want to. I’ve done it for many, many hours...
I haven’t really tried temp stepping with the FP, mostly because of the little buttons on the controller that would make it a bit annoying. Now that I have the Auber controller I do change the temp a bit more and I might try temp stepping over a short period soon too.
If that’s a feature you really want I’d switch to the Auber controller if it hasn’t shipped yet, but otherwise I have no problem with the original controller.
Since you said you want the one that’s easier to work with, I’d say the Auber, but it only really matters if you want to “work with” it a lot rather than just turn it off and on.
Hopefully you can get an answer straight from NV on the carb cap, but unless there’s a new one that I haven’t seen, the Shower Cap was made specifically to fit the ShowerHead (and I believe the Wrap-Around which has been replaced by the VRod which is why it has that stepped look). At least at the time they didn’t have anything else that fit.
...and on screens, I use the double weave Ti screens in the Ti bowls and they’re the best at keeping flower out of your glass (an ash catcher should work too if you have one), and the only other screens I have are the single weave Ti you ordered.
If you want to fit them to the glass bowls I think they’ll be fine. Stainless steel screens would be cheaper, but I don’t know why they’d be better. I’d just stick with the Ti or no screen.
I think your question was answered, but just so you don’t worry about it too much I wanted to add that my original coil has been fine through over a year of being on much more than it was off. My new Auber isn’t on nearly as much because I’m leaving the auto-off on, but as long as you use it in a normal temperature range and don’t physically beat it up I don’t think it’s worth worrying much about (and I worry about everything).
In fact, I can’t remember whether or not anyone in the thread has reported a coil failure. A few controller failures, but the coils seem to be pretty durable.
thevapist
Well-Known Member
Awesome, thanks for the info. I think I'll grab the nut for $25 and stick with the VROD diffuser for now.
Me too, whoa NV... I wasn’t ready for this! I’d mentally prepared for 3 weeks! LOL! Sike! I’ll be ready! LOL!MY original coil is about a year and half old now.
Also, keep your eye out on that Newvape false advertising...1 to 3 weeks for delivery??? Got my shipping notification last night!!
YaMon
Vaping since 2010
When's the next party?
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Can't believe I screwed this up in my last post...it SHOULD read:
The basics of physics, specifically boiling point depression with lower PRESSURE, is still in effect.
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I only consume 2 grams ROSIN per week so maybe l don’t qualify to make a comment?
Should I order a 22 mm ring?
Look’s fun?
You know the most about this device!
turk
turk
...you know when I read that...I was really wondering what you meant...than I thought I was to high and would think about it later...lol
wildman420
The Most Interesting Monkey in the World
Every day my friend. Mi casa su casa!When's the next party?
I love my toys and you guys make the best products.
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@Baron23 pretty much nailed it. Its all in your preference. Some use screens on the g bowls, some dont. I use the Ti bowl cause i feel the g bowls are messy. Some feel the taste make this predicament worthwhile.
Carp Cap - I dont use it but when were at shows i have one with me for every person. It helps me adjust the FP to their draw. Its always worth experimenting IMO, but you can definitely use the FP without it.
Controller - they both work, but if you absolutely need the shutoff timer, get that. the knob is a nice feature, i must admit.
Both Controllers have a 1 year warranty. Coils are 30 days. Ill get back to you on transfer ability.
EDIT: Warranties are only transferable with BVA products. Irrelevant to this thread really.
Hope this helps!
PS I need a juicy burger today.
Carp Cap - I dont use it but when were at shows i have one with me for every person. It helps me adjust the FP to their draw. Its always worth experimenting IMO, but you can definitely use the FP without it.
Controller - they both work, but if you absolutely need the shutoff timer, get that. the knob is a nice feature, i must admit.
Both Controllers have a 1 year warranty. Coils are 30 days. Ill get back to you on transfer ability.
EDIT: Warranties are only transferable with BVA products. Irrelevant to this thread really.
Hope this helps!
PS I need a juicy burger today.
Well, in 1-3 weeks I'll have my FP. I went with 14 & 18mm glass bowls, the NV PID, coil with handle, the safety stand with debowler, carb cap, reg. screens pack & the ss loading tool. $300 + ship, not bad.
I'm partial to glass, so went with the g. bowls, & it didn't hurt that they are @Baron23 approved.
Since this was not a financially prudent purchase at this time, I forgoed (no such word, but there should be.) the 14 & 18mm ti joints &.shovelhead for $56 & didn't even research the Auber PID & coil upgrade.
I think I'm gonna love it, but as a microdoser, don't know if it will be overkill, especially since I have 7 other vapes. Like how many does a microdoser really need to accomplish the deed.But this vape has had me intrigued, then
for a while. So here I am.
I do have 4 questions in case I want to make a change before shipping:
Thank you in advance. Now I'm gonna start reading through the thread before delivery.
- I never used screens in my fixed glass stems, but I see some do in the g. bowls. Are they using the NV standard ti screens or some other? And if NV, do the screens have to be cut to fit?
- Being a microdoser who inhales for 10 - 15 sec. at best, I'm not sure that a carb cap is nec. And, to date, I've never dabbed, & when I do, it will only be rosin on occasion. supershredderdan got his initial setup 2nd-hand w/o a cap & his 4 flower hits went fine. With my short draws, it seems like as soon as I put it on I'll be removing it. This all said, can I get away with the basic $8 carb csp on the site for my needs instead of the $40 FP cap?
- Apart from auto shutoff, what benefit, if any, would the Auber provide over the NV for my usage stlye?
- I've looked all over the site & can't find the warranty length for either controller. And is the warranty transferable should this not work out?
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thevapist
Well-Known Member
Asking here since I'm sure other people are interested.
In my NV account, I see "Stored Payment Methods" and also "My Payment Data".
I don't remember clicking "save information" at checkout, and "Stored Payment Methods" didn't have any info, but my card and address seemed to be saved in "My Payment Data".
I deleted this, but can someone from NV chime in and confirm that my card information is no longer stored on their servers?
In my NV account, I see "Stored Payment Methods" and also "My Payment Data".
I don't remember clicking "save information" at checkout, and "Stored Payment Methods" didn't have any info, but my card and address seemed to be saved in "My Payment Data".
I deleted this, but can someone from NV chime in and confirm that my card information is no longer stored on their servers?
I can assure you that none of your credit card numbers are stored on our magento server. The option that you're referencing is part of the authorize.net credit card processor module. No one at NewVape ever knows your complete credit card number. I do understand your concern.
Summer
Long Island, NY
I'll pm Stu next week & make a case, or at least try to. Promise.I started from the beginning and went through it all...if you decide to, consider suggesting the best posts for a new Best Of thread!
Can you, please explain this in laymen's terms - without the physics - cause it's over my head. 8th grade level presentation for me please.
Wouldn't a looser weave be more desirable because the double weave along with the fixed screen would, I would think, create too much draw resistance. Wouldn't you think so? And, do you really need that tight a weave if you already have the fixed screen protection?
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
Are you saying that NV now offers a controller/coil combo for which the pin & coil configuration now conforms to the unstandardized, but industry-accepted configuration being employed by the other mfrs ... or am I completely misunderstanding?
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
Its easy, Summer. Its why you can't get a truly hot cup of coffee at the top of Mt Everest. The pressure is so low that the coffee begins to boil before its actually warm.
Lower ambient pressure = lower boiling point (of anything...its a general law)
Higher pressure = higher boiling points.
Its why carb caps work on nails and bangers. When you cap, with a small carb hole while sucking in air through the rig, you are lowering the pressure in the banger and hence the dab will boil at a lower temp.
If you dab at all, then you have seen that when you put in your dab and are drawing in, there might be some light vapor but as soon as the carb cap is put on the rig milks. That's these gas laws at work.
Wouldn't a looser weave be more desirable because the double weave along with the fixed screen would, I would think, create too much draw resistance. Wouldn't you think so? And, do you really need that tight a weave if you already have the fixed screen protection?
Don't really know...I just was speaking that there are screens out there from lower cost to higher cost with the double weave being a prime example of the latter. I should think that any cheap screen would do perfectly fine...a single weave Ti screen or SS screen
Summer
Long Island, NY
@NewVape710, @newvape918, please, be good enough to answer my above-quoted question so I can make an educated purchasing decision.
Specifically, I want to know:
- How well does the basic cap fit the SH? Well or just well enough?
- Does the SH cap have air holes? And, & if so, which has the more open airflow of the two?
- what does 10-24 thread mean?
Thank you -TIA.
Anyone on the thread even have the basic cap?
Speaking of carb caps: Having not even seen a FP in person, I'm gonna ask such a naive question that it may make me sound like an ignoramous & I might be asked to turn in my FC membership card
:Do you heat soak it on or off the herb? I would think off, otherwise, I would think that the herb would be roasted if not combusted if on.
How specifically does it help
in adjusting someone's draw?I haven't a clue. No physics please.
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@Summer i'd like to take a stab at responding to your questions.
carb caps
I (old lungs) don't like using the carb caps when I'm at home with my own dialed in vaping station. Yes many will say that i'm wasting product. I don't like coughing so I prefer to keep my dabs small and keep my temps set accordingly to avoid needing the carb cap. When dabing the carb cap is considered by many as a way to "properly finish a dab" This can be personal preference. We use carb caps at shows with flower to help compensate for the varying lung strength of people walking up to the dab bar. Other folks on this forum use their carb cap for adding a conduction heat element to their flowerpot session.
The flowerpot can be used (as many do) as a conduction vape. However true on demand convection vaping was the original design intent of the flowerpot.
screens
With convection vaping the finer the grind the denser the clouds (like espresso coffee). This is because the surface area of the material is increased. There's more edges of the material for the hot air to contact. In my opinion convection vapes are largely limited by their filtration (screen) system. Many vapes just can't handle the extra fine grind (mighty comes to mind) as they get clogged up quickly and begin to restrict draw. Our titanium double weave screen will allow extra fine material to be vaped. These double weave screens last a long time. I've been using the same one for over a year. It cleans like new after soaking in hot alcohol (fizzes like alkalizer tablet when first dropped in). One would think that the double weave screen would get gummed up and quickly begin restricting the air flow but that doesn't seem to happen. The double weave screen will also help keep the glass clean. Our glass bowls with their built in glass screens do get gummed up quickly and don't handle the extra fine grind as well as the shovelhead bowl with double weave screen.
Big air
The showerhead or weedeater paired with a 18mm female glass will produce the most amount of airflow. The vrod has a bit more restriction because the center hole design.
carb caps
I (old lungs) don't like using the carb caps when I'm at home with my own dialed in vaping station. Yes many will say that i'm wasting product. I don't like coughing so I prefer to keep my dabs small and keep my temps set accordingly to avoid needing the carb cap. When dabing the carb cap is considered by many as a way to "properly finish a dab" This can be personal preference. We use carb caps at shows with flower to help compensate for the varying lung strength of people walking up to the dab bar. Other folks on this forum use their carb cap for adding a conduction heat element to their flowerpot session.
The flowerpot can be used (as many do) as a conduction vape. However true on demand convection vaping was the original design intent of the flowerpot.
screens
With convection vaping the finer the grind the denser the clouds (like espresso coffee). This is because the surface area of the material is increased. There's more edges of the material for the hot air to contact. In my opinion convection vapes are largely limited by their filtration (screen) system. Many vapes just can't handle the extra fine grind (mighty comes to mind) as they get clogged up quickly and begin to restrict draw. Our titanium double weave screen will allow extra fine material to be vaped. These double weave screens last a long time. I've been using the same one for over a year. It cleans like new after soaking in hot alcohol (fizzes like alkalizer tablet when first dropped in). One would think that the double weave screen would get gummed up and quickly begin restricting the air flow but that doesn't seem to happen. The double weave screen will also help keep the glass clean. Our glass bowls with their built in glass screens do get gummed up quickly and don't handle the extra fine grind as well as the shovelhead bowl with double weave screen.
Big air
The showerhead or weedeater paired with a 18mm female glass will produce the most amount of airflow. The vrod has a bit more restriction because the center hole design.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Hi Edwyn - not sure I understand why you feel that adding a carb cap adds conduction versus convection. The Ti adjustabowl gets as hot as it gets from the heater...depending on how long you leave it on there and just adding a carb cap doesn't seem to me to increase any component of conduction.
I may well have just misunderstood.
And yes, many prefer to not cap flower.....but as I said, I do because I believe that with the lowered pressure inside of the bowl from capping that I have reduced boiling points for cannibinoids and can either run at a slightly lower set point temp or choose to leave the temp as is and just get milk.
It seems to be a personal preference thing...no wrong, no right, just what the individual prefers.
Oh, and I actually like the added draw resistance of the cap.
Yes, my name is Baron23 and I'm a carb capper! LOL
Summer
Long Island, NY
Thank you for that explicit explanation, @NewVape710.
Now how about taking a stab at the unanswered questions I asked about the carb caps. PLEASE!
& this question, too.
*I'm not going away until I get these questions completely answered. Thank you.
@Baron23, i understand the pressure formula you explained, but don't understand why if the coffee's boiling, it's not even warm??? Would think that it would get hot in proportion to the speed of heating.
BTW, I sent an email to CS & followed up with a pm to NV918 asking to upgrade to the Auber & add a carb cap as I can't believe I checked out without it.
Just hope I hear back before shipping so I don't have to do a postal exchange. 
Now how about taking a stab at the unanswered questions I asked about the carb caps. PLEASE!
& this question, too.
*I'm not going away until I get these questions completely answered. Thank you.
@Baron23, i understand the pressure formula you explained, but don't understand why if the coffee's boiling, it's not even warm??? Would think that it would get hot in proportion to the speed of heating.
BTW, I sent an email to CS & followed up with a pm to NV918 asking to upgrade to the Auber & add a carb cap as I can't believe I checked out without it.
Just hope I hear back before shipping so I don't have to do a postal exchange. 
mantis_871
Well-Known Member
@Summer
The other guys have explained it pretty well. @NewVape710 definitely knows what he's talking about and probably answered all of your questions. I'm just gonna post a tiny bit more info, maybe it'll help, maybe it won't.
http://www.peoi.org/Courses/Coursesen/chemintro/ch/ch10c.html
^ this has great info and easy-to-understand diagrams. And it's tailored to chemistry, not physics. We all like our chemistry, right? At least, if you like terpenes and cannabinoids, you do!
http://www.peoi.net/Courses/Coursesen/chemintro/Resources/ball-fig10_008.jpg
^ this graph in particular is what I'm getting at. I remember seeing almost this exact graph in high school chemistry. Basically, it's showing ether (a nonpolar solvent, remember Fear & Loathing?), ethanol, ethylene glycol (central component of antifreeze), and good old water. This is a good mix, because you have one nonpolar and three different polar compounds, so they'll have different properties (think oil [nonpolar] vs water or alcohol [polar]). Notice alcohol has a lower boiling point than water - so it will vaporize faster. If you've ever seen alcohol evaporate, you understand this.
Notice the black horizontal line at 760 (mm Hg). That's standard pressure - very close to what we're all used to, especially if you live near sea level. If you live in the mountains, the pressure is lower - bringing a pot of water to boil is faster in Denver than in NYC, because it will evaporate (BOIL) at a lower temperature.
Makes sense? Think about what pressure is - you can think of it as the weight of the atmosphere pressing down on you. Higher pressure is going to make it harder for things to evaporate into the air. That's a verrry oversimplified explanation so don't take that as scientific gospel or anything.
When that black horizontal line is brought down - a reduction in pressure - what's going to happen? Well, you see how each of the colored lines is a curve, right? The lower that black line is (lower pressure, again), then the liquid is going to evaporate (or, if you will, VAPORIZE), at a reduced temperature, with temperature displayed at the bottom. Don't worry about all the specifics, like what torr is (it's based on mercury - mm Hg). Just know that water evaporates at 100C, or 212F, if you prefer, and the lower the pressure, the lower temperature that it can evaporate at.
Now, keep in mind cannabinoids are nonpolar compounds (OILS) - lots of chemicals with aromatic rings, which is part of why terpenes give off a smell/taste - things like perfumes are based off aromatic compounds. Terpenes are actually a broad class of compounds - most "essential oils" are just terpene compounds - camphor is a good example. The thing that makes it a "terpene" is that it's built with these Y-shaped carbon structures that link up like LEGO blocks or something. The nonpolar part is important because it's an oil, not water or similar to water, so it won't behave exactly like water (this basically means different boiling points - the essential principle of lower pressure, lower boiling temp remains the same).
Keep in mind, too, we're not trying to slowly boil these compounds. We're trying to hit them with such a high heat that they get blasted into vapor, while keeping the heat low enough that they don't get destroyed. Putting on the carb cap means you create a drop in pressure, which means that these compounds can vaporize at lower temps - meaning bigger clouds, more robust performance at lower temps, what have you.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/24/Squalene.svg/840px-Squalene.svg.png
With that one you can see all the Y-shaped moieties (if my old biochem professor heard me saying "Y shaped moieties" i think he'd about have a heart attack) linked up in a line.
https://img1.wsimg.com/isteam/ip/ab74d3c6-640a-4ca4-8de1-0ba63c35b972/1aac8d11-cd00-4c49-9639-0ea1dcdfdb94.png/:/cr=t:9.94%,l:0%,w:100%,h:89.29%/rs=w:1860,h:930,cg:true
The above one shows common structures.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...1600px-Synthesis_of_geranyl_pyrophosphate.png
This shows how a basic terpene can be produced - ignore all the phosphate groups, they're just there to help the chemical reactions come along (look up "leaving groups" if interested).
Finally, the below image shows many of our favorite molecules! Whenever you see R', R'', etc, that's just a placeholder - like X or Y in algebra. It just means "there's something here but we're too lazy to show it" or "this part is X on molecule 1 but it's Y on molecule 2".
https://www.hempbasics.com/hhusb/61fighmp.gif
I hope somebody got something out of my ramblings! This concludes our impromptu FC chemistry lesson.
(hopefully the last) edit: If anyone remembers the old days when cars had manual altitude adjustments in the engine, this is highly relevant. I remember an old Celica a friend used to own that he ripped out all the automatic altitude adjustment equipment just to make it more ballsy. Whenever he drove from a more mountainous place to someplace such as NYC or Long Island, he would literally have to pull over, pop open the hood, and adjust the altitude setting right then and there to get it to run properly. This is because the car had an internal adjustment to compensate for the fact that at higher pressure (closer to sea level, think MORE AIR above you) the temperature needed for gasoline to vaporize was higher (gas doesn't burn well in liquid form, the evaporated gas is what combusts), and so without the adjustment the motor ran quite poorly. All modern cars and even most old cars do this automatically. I don't think there was actually a performance difference when he ripped out the automatic adjustment stuff, but his thinking was less parts = more power, lol.
The other guys have explained it pretty well. @NewVape710 definitely knows what he's talking about and probably answered all of your questions. I'm just gonna post a tiny bit more info, maybe it'll help, maybe it won't.
http://www.peoi.org/Courses/Coursesen/chemintro/ch/ch10c.html
^ this has great info and easy-to-understand diagrams. And it's tailored to chemistry, not physics. We all like our chemistry, right?
At least, if you like terpenes and cannabinoids, you do!http://www.peoi.net/Courses/Coursesen/chemintro/Resources/ball-fig10_008.jpg
^ this graph in particular is what I'm getting at. I remember seeing almost this exact graph in high school chemistry. Basically, it's showing ether (a nonpolar solvent, remember Fear & Loathing?), ethanol, ethylene glycol (central component of antifreeze), and good old water. This is a good mix, because you have one nonpolar and three different polar compounds, so they'll have different properties (think oil [nonpolar] vs water or alcohol [polar]). Notice alcohol has a lower boiling point than water - so it will vaporize faster. If you've ever seen alcohol evaporate, you understand this.
Notice the black horizontal line at 760 (mm Hg). That's standard pressure - very close to what we're all used to, especially if you live near sea level. If you live in the mountains, the pressure is lower - bringing a pot of water to boil is faster in Denver than in NYC, because it will evaporate (BOIL) at a lower temperature.
Makes sense? Think about what pressure is - you can think of it as the weight of the atmosphere pressing down on you. Higher pressure is going to make it harder for things to evaporate into the air. That's a verrry oversimplified explanation so don't take that as scientific gospel or anything.
When that black horizontal line is brought down - a reduction in pressure - what's going to happen? Well, you see how each of the colored lines is a curve, right? The lower that black line is (lower pressure, again), then the liquid is going to evaporate (or, if you will, VAPORIZE), at a reduced temperature, with temperature displayed at the bottom. Don't worry about all the specifics, like what torr is (it's based on mercury - mm Hg). Just know that water evaporates at 100C, or 212F, if you prefer, and the lower the pressure, the lower temperature that it can evaporate at.
Now, keep in mind cannabinoids are nonpolar compounds (OILS) - lots of chemicals with aromatic rings, which is part of why terpenes give off a smell/taste - things like perfumes are based off aromatic compounds. Terpenes are actually a broad class of compounds - most "essential oils" are just terpene compounds - camphor is a good example. The thing that makes it a "terpene" is that it's built with these Y-shaped carbon structures that link up like LEGO blocks or something. The nonpolar part is important because it's an oil, not water or similar to water, so it won't behave exactly like water (this basically means different boiling points - the essential principle of lower pressure, lower boiling temp remains the same).
Keep in mind, too, we're not trying to slowly boil these compounds. We're trying to hit them with such a high heat that they get blasted into vapor, while keeping the heat low enough that they don't get destroyed. Putting on the carb cap means you create a drop in pressure, which means that these compounds can vaporize at lower temps - meaning bigger clouds, more robust performance at lower temps, what have you.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/24/Squalene.svg/840px-Squalene.svg.png
With that one you can see all the Y-shaped moieties (if my old biochem professor heard me saying "Y shaped moieties" i think he'd about have a heart attack) linked up in a line.
https://img1.wsimg.com/isteam/ip/ab74d3c6-640a-4ca4-8de1-0ba63c35b972/1aac8d11-cd00-4c49-9639-0ea1dcdfdb94.png/:/cr=t:9.94%,l:0%,w:100%,h:89.29%/rs=w:1860,h:930,cg:true
The above one shows common structures.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...1600px-Synthesis_of_geranyl_pyrophosphate.png
This shows how a basic terpene can be produced - ignore all the phosphate groups, they're just there to help the chemical reactions come along (look up "leaving groups" if interested).
Finally, the below image shows many of our favorite molecules! Whenever you see R', R'', etc, that's just a placeholder - like X or Y in algebra. It just means "there's something here but we're too lazy to show it" or "this part is X on molecule 1 but it's Y on molecule 2".
https://www.hempbasics.com/hhusb/61fighmp.gif
I hope somebody got something out of my ramblings! This concludes our impromptu FC chemistry lesson.
(hopefully the last) edit: If anyone remembers the old days when cars had manual altitude adjustments in the engine, this is highly relevant. I remember an old Celica a friend used to own that he ripped out all the automatic altitude adjustment equipment just to make it more ballsy. Whenever he drove from a more mountainous place to someplace such as NYC or Long Island, he would literally have to pull over, pop open the hood, and adjust the altitude setting right then and there to get it to run properly. This is because the car had an internal adjustment to compensate for the fact that at higher pressure (closer to sea level, think MORE AIR above you) the temperature needed for gasoline to vaporize was higher (gas doesn't burn well in liquid form, the evaporated gas is what combusts), and so without the adjustment the motor ran quite poorly. All modern cars and even most old cars do this automatically. I don't think there was actually a performance difference when he ripped out the automatic adjustment stuff, but his thinking was less parts = more power, lol.
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Not sure if this is late. @Summer, the basic Cap does NOT fit the SH. The only cap that will fit the SH is the ShowerCap.
10-24 refers to the thread size on the top and side of the cap which is where you screw your dabber into. The size of that thread is consistent with NewVape and will fit most if not all of our dabbers and even the threaded loading tool.
The ShowerCap has one air hole and it is not angled.
Hope this answers your questions.
10-24 refers to the thread size on the top and side of the cap which is where you screw your dabber into. The size of that thread is consistent with NewVape and will fit most if not all of our dabbers and even the threaded loading tool.
The ShowerCap has one air hole and it is not angled.
Hope this answers your questions.
@NewVape710, @newvape918, please, be good enough to answer my above-quoted question so I can make an educated purchasing decision.
Specifically, I want to know:
As I know I won't ever use the SH cap for flower, if I can get by with spending $8 vs. 40 & having it be good enough, I'll go that route.
- How well does the basic cap fit the SH? Well or just well enough?
- Does the SH cap have air holes? And, & if so, which has the more open airflow of the two?
- what does 10-24 thread mean?
Thank you -TIA.
Anyone on the thread even have the basic cap?
Speaking of carb caps: Having not even seen a FP in person, I'm gonna ask such a naive question that it may make me sound like an ignoramous & I might be asked to turn in my FC membership card
Do you heat soak it on or off the herb? I would think off, otherwise, I would think that the herb would be roasted if not combusted if on.
How specifically does it help
in adjusting someone's draw?I haven't a clue. No physics please.