Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

YaMon

Vaping since 2010
I own the D020-D which is similar to that side car single matrix, but the first one you posted (double matrix) is exactly what I've been looking for. Dunno how I missed it. Can you talk a little more about how you like/dislike it?

Edit: On second thought, if it's the same size as this one, I'm not interested. I'm looking for a shorter version.

It's the same height as the one you linked to. Shorter would be cool as the only drawback to it is the size, but the size seems to be a perfect way to gauge a hit. I draw until it milks, I do not clear it and hold that first part of the draw, exhale and then I clear it. I could clear it all at once, but don't want to push my lungs that way as I have allergy induced asthma this time of year. I can extract the density and size clouds I want with this combination every singe time, whereas the free flowing can on the bottom I am more apt to get my ass handed to me. The totally free draw of that piece is like playing with blasting caps when you have the heat right, which for me is 735 capped (However briefly)

Edit, added from back to back posts. Sorry Mods!
While obvious and probably already called out, I'm going to say it anyway. The NV FlowerPot ShowerHead paired with the right glass piece (Perhaps even a J-Hook) can heat the air as fast as you can draw it. No other vape does that for me, except perhaps pulls from the Volcano or Herbalizer bags! You have your choice, you may take a shot from a funnelator or chug a beer by switching to a glass piece that "glugs a bit more."
 
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Alexis

Well-Known Member
Sherbert pencil for my dabbing
I misread you there for 1 second. I thought you said "Sherbert pencil for my PUDDING"! :drool:

@WAM90 those 2 bubblers are a different height. The FC 186 you linked above is 34 cm. The Newvape model is 12.5 inches which is what...31.5cm? :hmm: So only a touch shorter but those few cm can make a surpirising difference. (And before you do, PLEASE don't anybody quote me in the posts taken out of context thread!):brow:
 
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EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
so you guys said the vrod wont work with aubers rdk coils right?

Needs to be a coil like this one...

v_rod_flowerpot_setup2-1.jpg
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
If you've soldered before/can solder already, its really easy!
@Grifo ... if you are looking for the XLR end, and you don't have a source locally, I would recommend Digikey (part is ~$6.50 and $8 flat rate shipping here in Canada, and likely similar in the US as they are in both Canada and the US). I was previously getting them from AVShop.ca as I couldn't find them @ digikey ... so either they didn't have them or for some reason I couldn't find them not always the best UI for finding stuff ... :lol: ...

Anyways ... here's the links for the parts in Canada and the US (for those in other countries, Digikey is everywhere, so the Digikey part # is 1937-1034-ND)

- Canada: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/io-audio-technologies/IO-XLR5-M-BK/1937-1034-ND/8619504
- USA: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/io-audio-technologies/IO-XLR5-M-BK/1937-1034-ND/8619504
 

ParanoidAndroid998

Well-Known Member
@Grifo ... if you are looking for the XLR end, and you don't have a source locally, I would recommend Digikey (part is ~$6.50 and $8 flat rate shipping here in Canada, and likely similar in the US as they are in both Canada and the US). I was previously getting them from AVShop.ca as I couldn't find them @ digikey ... so either they didn't have them or for some reason I couldn't find them not always the best UI for finding stuff ... :lol: ...

Anyways ... here's the links for the parts in Canada and the US (for those in other countries, Digikey is everywhere, so the Digikey part # is 1937-1034-ND)

- Canada: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/io-audio-technologies/IO-XLR5-M-BK/1937-1034-ND/8619504
- USA: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/io-audio-technologies/IO-XLR5-M-BK/1937-1034-ND/8619504
Is it obvious which parts to solder once you've opened up the cable?
 
ParanoidAndroid998,

Grifo

Well-Known Member
Here we go again... :)



If you've soldered before/can solder already, its really easy!
I can but im not super pro like the old asian ladies at work, but i can do it im just lazy. LOL.


BTW can i not re solder the old plug? Idk how it looks.
 
Grifo,
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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Is it obvious which parts to solder once you've opened up the cable?
That depends ... if you've never soldered much before, then you better buy a couple extra connectors! Contact time has be super quick on these so as to not melt them (and you need to use at least a 40W iron I would say ...) Make sure you use a rosin core solder and an electronic flux.

As far as if it is obvious, just don't get the blue wires mixed up. One should be for the AC load (pin 5) and one for AC neutral (pin 4).

So ... to make your life easy:

Pin 1: Ground => Green/Yellow
Pin 2: TC+ => Red
Pin 3: TC- => Black
Pin 4: AC Neutral => Blue
Pin 5: AC Load => Blue

Make sure to mark the 1 blue cable when you snip off the end ... otherwise I don't know how you can tell after the fact.

I'm actually not sure that it would matter which is which for these coils ... good chance it's irrelevant ... however, better safe then sorry.

Edit:

BTW can i not re solder the old plug? Idk how it looks.
No. Most e-nail controllers use an XLR-5 pin connector. NewVape uses a reverse GX16-5 pin connector.
 

ParanoidAndroid998

Well-Known Member
That depends ... if you've never soldered much before, then you better buy a couple extra connectors! Contact time has be super quick on these so as to not melt them (and you need to use at least a 40W iron I would say ...) Make sure you use a rosin core solder and an electronic flux.

As far as if it is obvious, just don't get the blue wires mixed up. One should be for the AC load (pin 5) and one for AC neutral (pin 4).

So ... to make your life easy:

Pin 1: Ground => Green/Yellow
Pin 2: TC+ => Red
Pin 3: TC- => Black
Pin 4: AC Neutral => Blue
Pin 5: AC Load => Blue

Make sure to mark the 1 blue cable when you snip off the end ... otherwise I don't know how you can tell after the fact.

I'm actually not sure that it would matter which is which for these coils ... good chance it's irrelevant ... however, better safe then sorry.

Edit:


No. Most e-nail controllers use an XLR-5 pin connector. NewVape uses a reverse GX16-5 pin connector.
Amazing, thanks!
 
ParanoidAndroid998,
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Likes2vape

Well-Known Member
That depends ... if you've never soldered much before, then you better buy a couple extra connectors! Contact time has be super quick on these so as to not melt them (and you need to use at least a 40W iron I would say ...) Make sure you use a rosin core solder and an electronic flux.

As far as if it is obvious, just don't get the blue wires mixed up. One should be for the AC load (pin 5) and one for AC neutral (pin 4).

So ... to make your life easy:

Pin 1: Ground => Green/Yellow
Pin 2: TC+ => Red
Pin 3: TC- => Black
Pin 4: AC Neutral => Blue
Pin 5: AC Load => Blue

Make sure to mark the 1 blue cable when you snip off the end ... otherwise I don't know how you can tell after the fact.

I'm actually not sure that it would matter which is which for these coils ... good chance it's irrelevant ... however, better safe then sorry.

Edit:


No. Most e-nail controllers use an XLR-5 pin connector. NewVape uses a reverse GX16-5 pin connector.
It is irrelevant you don’t have to keep track of which is which.
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Amazing, thanks!
No problem :)

I just finished re-wiring 5 adapter cables (one left to go once I get confirmation on wiring and length) + I re-wired the end of my coil when I got my vrod ... so I have it memorized right now ... :lol:

It is irrelevant you don’t have to keep track of the which is which.
On a resistive coil both ends are the same correct? (this was what I wasn't 100% sure on ... is it the same as a lightbulb or a resistor? ... being a heating element I figured that would be the case ...) For the adapter cables on the other hand that I just build ... I think it does matter ... it doesn't technically matter as far as it would work either way ... however, it sorta' matters in that either pin 4 or 5 is live on the female end of the adapter cable when plugged in :) ... and it's always good to know which pin is live :)
 
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Slagzord

Don't fuckle with shuckle
I'm pretty sure Mr. Auber isn't sitting alone in a shed in Georgia hand curling each coil in his overalls and cackling with satisfaction at a job well done...so, I wonder if it would be possible for them to get coils of this dimension. I'd rather dream big before I go into the garage to find the box the soldering kit is in.
 
Slagzord,

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Is it obvious which parts to solder once you've opened up the cable?

newvape_enail_pinout-1_3.jpg


I can but im not super pro like the old asian ladies at work, but i can do it im just lazy. LOL.


BTW can i not re solder the old plug? Idk how it looks.

I solder one lead every 10 years or so, so no pro either, but yeah, it was very very easy. Just a bit fiddly.
 

Likes2vape

Well-Known Member
@Likes2vape Do you know if the connector that JCat posted will work with the Menovo controller?
Can't remember if it uses a different pin pattern.
Here's the link: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/io-audio-technologies/IO-XLR5-M-BK/1937-1034-ND/8619504
The dnail pin out will not work with the Menovo it uses the high5 pin out.
Pins 1&2 tc, pin3 ground, pins 4&5 power is what it is for the Menovo controller. He could wire it up for you it shouldn’t be a problem.
 
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