Auber Enail Discussion

[VaporScript]

@EmDeemo, how long was the upgrade turnaround time from shipping?

Delivered to Auber: Thurs, 6/4
Updated and shipped back to me: Mon 6/8
I received it on Wed, 6/10
Cost to upgrade: $8.00 plus $5.00 for 2 day Fed Ex return shippinng

 

[VaporScript]

Regarding issues some are reporting with the upgraded RDK-300B under the "NewVape FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer" thread, this from Auber:

Thanks for your email. The original firmware on the RDK-300B does have one issue: it is relatively easy for the user to accidentally get into the calibration mode and change the calibration values. One of the reasons is that we added a reset parameter RST (in 155 menu) which can reset all parameter values to factory default. Once the controller is in the calibration mode, the operator either has to supply the calibration signal or has to unplug the power cord to exit the calibration mode. It is not easy for a user to notice that the controller is in the calibration mode.

Two things need to happen together in this particular sequence to get into the calibration mode:
1) The controller is just being reset by the RST parameter in menu 155.
2) Then the controller will re-start. In the first about 1 second, the controller will show "888". If the user presses the knob down during this time, the controller will enter the calibration mode.
( But if you RST reset the controller, but you didn't press the knob during "888" and entered any menu system during the next operation, then the next you won't get into the calibration mode even if you press the knob during "888". )

During normal use, there is no need to reset the controller. But it is a quick way to change all parameters back to factory settings.

To avoid getting into this issue, just make sure you don't press the knob after resetting the controller and while the controller is still showing "888".

We now have new version firmware to fix this issue. These controllers will be marked as RDK-300B V2. It won't be that easy to get into the calibration mode, and even if it happens, there is a parameter to allow the user to exit calibration mode. All other functions are the same as the original version. If you are concerned about this issue, we will offer a free upgrade on the firmware. Please let us know what you prefer. We will also post a note regarding this issue on our website soon.

 

[LabPong]

I would like the B software just for the extended cooling temps reading before it turns the LED's off. A = 150f then led shuts off.... B= ability to go to 100F before led shut off happens?

With my enail...this would help for a few situations.

 

[bizwaxzion]

Thanks for posting that @VaporScript - the extra deail is very helpful.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I would like the B software just for the extended cooling temps reading before it turns the LED's off. A = 150f then led shuts off.... B= ability to go to 100F before led shut off happens?

With my enail...this would help for a few situations.

I called Auber after I bought my 300-A, and mentioned that 150f, is still pretty HOT, when the power “off” light goes OFF. They said I could send it in, and they would program that for me, I didn’t bother. Many of these problems can be avoided with the ability of the USER to do a firmware upgrade at home. I know it can cost more, but certainly a welcome feature of the Maxvapor PID.

 

[LabPong]

I called Auber after I bought my 300-A, and mentioned that 150f, is still pretty HOT, when the power “off” light goes OFF. They said I could send it in, and they would program that for me, I didn’t bother. Many of these problems can be avoided with the ability of the USER to do a firmware upgrade at home. I know it can cost more, but certainly a welcome feature of the Maxvapor PID.

No worries for me sending in if I have to....or just buy a 2nd unit....I have the 200 as well anyway. But I prefer the physical layout and the big dail and read out...it is one PID I have no need to replace or change with another. I use it for 3 diff vapes right now.....one of my fav pieces of equipment.

 

[VaporScript]

Auber is reaching out to those who upgraded to RDK-300B and providing more details on how customers can get it corrected. I received this email this morning:

Dear Customer,

We are contacting you regarding a firmware issue in the RDK-300B controller that you have purchased recently.

The issue is regarding the calibration mode in the original version of RDK-300B controller (sold between mid-April and June 12th, 2020; serial number starts with "2003xxx" and "2004xxx"). It makes it relatively easy for a user to accidentally get into the calibration mode and change the factory calibration value. If that happens, the controller will be unable to show correct temperature readings and unable to bring the coil heater to the set temperature correctly.

To learn more about how to tell which version of the controller you have, how the bug affects the controller, how you can avoid getting into the trouble, and how we can help to solve this issue, please read the PDF document here for more details.

(Note on the Calibration Mode in RDK-300B original version.pdf)

We now have a new firmware to fix this problem. The controllers loaded with new firmware will be marked as "RDK-300B V2“.

For our customers who purchased RDK-300B directly from Auber (through our website or through Amazon.com) we will upgrade the firmware, re-calibrate the controller if needed, and send it back to you under warranty service. Please contact us by email or phone call and provide your order confirmation number. For domestic orders, within 3 months of the purchasing date, we offer a return label; beyond 3 months of purchasing, the customer is responsible for one-way shipping cost for sending the controller in.

Please contact us to arrange the upgrade. If you have any questions, please let us know. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Best regards,

Auber Instruments
www.auberins.com
(770) 569-8420

 

[Stu]

This thread is now re-opened and has been merged with content from NewFC. Read more about it here.

 

[bizwaxzion]

Sent one of my 300A controllers in for a upgrade. Same day turnaround and great customer service. Been trying out my three boost mode settings (390F->530F, 420F->575F, 440->610F) with a 710coils 25mm axial setup with 2 5mm rubies. Floor temp trails set temp by 80F according to thermocouple.

 

[someTooL]

Sending in mine tomorrow for update.

In the meantime, I’m running the rdk300-b with 16mm coil. The highest temperature I can a hit is 635f. Am I missing a setting?

 

[Ramahs]

I called Auber after I bought my 300-A, and mentioned that 150f, is still pretty HOT, when the power “off” light goes OFF. They said I could send it in, and they would program that for me, I didn’t bother. Many of these problems can be avoided with the ability of the USER to do a firmware upgrade at home. I know it can cost more, but certainly a welcome feature of the Maxvapor PID.

Of course 150f is still hot. You do know that you're only about 98f, right? How about we use common sense, and not touch it when it's still hot?!?!

It seems absurd to me that anyone would think that it's okay to touch it at that point. You know that it cuts off at 150f, right? So, that means that you shouldn't be in a hurry to touch it when it just shut off....right?

It's no wonder that stoves have to have a label on them, warning users that they are hot

 

[RustyOldNail]

Of course 150f is still hot. You do know that you're only about 98f, right? How about we use common sense, and not touch it when it's still hot?!?!

It seems absurd to me that anyone would think that it's okay to touch it at that point. You know that it cuts off at 150f, right? So, that means that you shouldn't be in a hurry to touch it when it just shut off....right?

It's no wonder that stoves have to have a label on them, warning users that they are hot

I’m really not sure your post (mini rant) is directed at me? Or the purpose, while I’m no expert, I’ve spent a considerable amount of time reading and learning about PID’s, the differences, and their various settings. As well as many posts on proper temperature reading techniques and results, on this forum.

First of all, in case I was not clear, the Auber 300a when you turn off the heater on the PID, will slowly cool down, the unit displays “HOT”, on its display. When it reaches 150f, the display then turns OFF, so you may think your coil and whatever it was heating, in my case a DCup or WeedEater, is now at room temperature, BUT, until the coil cools down to room temperature on its own, initially it can be 150f, which I felt was a bit TOO HOT, this setting CANNOT be adjusted by the user. I spoke directly on the phone with the Auber support technician, and he said, “no problem just send it back, and they would reprogram it to whatever temperature I wanted the display to shut off at. I thought that was great, but have not taken advantage of it because of shipping and not being able to use it for a week or two.

As far as you stating “You do know that you're only about 98f, right?”, well that’s a big assumption, as I’ve tuned mine so that the temperature on the PID, is within 1-3 degrees of the surface. So, in fact, when the Auber display turns OFF, my devices are still actually at 150f, and there is NO longer a visual “HOT” warning on the PID, and the coil slowly cools down to room temperature.

If you have any further comments, I’ll be glad to clear them up for you.

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

I bought an Auber 300A about a year ago to use with a banger and a 25mm 710 axial coil. I ended up fiddling with the settings in order to get it properly set up. I don't use it very often because I just don't dab very often. However, I don't know if I messed the settings up. The coil I use is 150w.

In order to have the auber work properly with the coil I was instructed to adjust the OTH (output high limit) to 67. When I started messing with the settings I found the OTH was at 100. I then dialed the 100 back to 67 following the instructions. If you look in the auber manual, it states that for the OTH (Output high limit) you use it to match a 100w coil. So for a 150w coil, adjusting it to 67 gives the recommended setting. 150w x .67=100.5w

Does this sound right? I am also trying to figure out if it is worth it for me to send it in for the upgrade. I don't mess with the temps very much, I tend to turn it on and let it get to about 540F, then do my one dab and shut it off. Even that one dab is enough to get me flying for quite a while.

 

[VaporScript]

Sending in mine tomorrow for update.

In the meantime, I’m running the rdk300-b with 16mm coil. The highest temperature I can a hit is 635f. Am I missing a setting?

Sorry you have yet to receive a reply, and I am no expert! And I do not run a 16mm coil with any of my Auber controllers. However, I can easily surpass 635 on all my Auber controllers with the coils I use without any kind of setting change. I would suggest letting Auber know you were having that problem while they are upgrading your controller so they can perform a thorough diagnostic on it?

 

[VaporScript]

I bought an Auber 300A about a year ago to use with a banger and a 25mm 710 axial coil. I ended up fiddling with the settings in order to get it properly set up. I don't use it very often because I just don't dab very often. However, I don't know if I messed the settings up. The coil I use is 150w.

In order to have the auber work properly with the coil I was instructed to adjust the OTH (output high limit) to 67. When I started messing with the settings I found the OTH was at 100. I then dialed the 100 back to 67 following the instructions. If you look in the auber manual, it states that for the OTH (Output high limit) you use it to match a 100w coil. So for a 150w coil, adjusting it to 67 gives the recommended setting. 150w x .67=100.5w

Does this sound right? I am also trying to figure out if it is worth it for me to send it in for the upgrade. I don't mess with the temps very much, I tend to turn it on and let it get to about 540F, then do my one dab and shut it off. Even that one dab is enough to get me flying for quite a while.

I run the same setup with one of my Auber controllers, and I too had to change the OTH setting from the default 100 setting to 67 for my 150 watt coil. My controller drops 1 to 2 degrees during use, and immediately returns to the designated temp setting. It may not be perfect, but i doubt I could discern any difference if if was any better?

Regarding getting the upgrade, I can only say it really depends on how you envision using your controller. There seem to be many variables, each dependent on one's personal vaping preferences, gear, choice of vaporizables, etc. etc. And I have yet to fully experiment with the new boost modes being offered by Auber (thank you @EmDeemo)! However, for some time I have been manually performing a "boost mode" on occasion, and for me, returning my controllers for the upgrade feature was an easy choice.

 

[Ramahs]

I’m really not sure your post (mini rant) is directed at me? Or the purpose, while I’m no expert, I’ve spent a considerable amount of time reading and learning about PID’s, the differences, and their various settings. As well as many posts on proper temperature reading techniques and results, on this forum.

First of all, in case I was not clear, the Auber 300a when you turn off the heater on the PID, will slowly cool down, the unit displays “HOT”, on its display. When it reaches 150f, the display then turns OFF, so you may think your coil and whatever it was heating, in my case a DCup or WeedEater, is now at room temperature, BUT, until the coil cools down to room temperature on its own, initially it can be 150f, which I felt was a bit TOO HOT, this setting CANNOT be adjusted by the user. I spoke directly on the phone with the Auber support technician, and he said, “no problem just send it back, and they would reprogram it to whatever temperature I wanted the display to shut off at. I thought that was great, but have not taken advantage of it because of shipping and not being able to use it for a week or two.

As far as you stating “You do know that you're only about 98f, right?”, well that’s a big assumption, as I’ve tuned mine so that the temperature on the PID, is within 1-3 degrees of the surface. So, in fact, when the Auber display turns OFF, my devices are still actually at 150f, and there is NO longer a visual “HOT” warning on the PID, and the coil slowly cools down to room temperature.

If you have any further comments, I’ll be glad to clear them up for you.

All I can say is that if you know that the display shuts off at 150 degrees, then you know that it shuts off while it is too hot to touch. It's freaking common sense. How do you not know that 150 degrees is still too hot to touch?!?!?

When the screen shuts off, you still have to give it some time to still finish cooling.

This reminds me of a story I heard about an old brand of Lawn Mowers called "Lawn Boy" lawn mowers. At some point a while back, some idiot decided to pick up his Lawn Boy lawn mower and try to trim the sides of his hedges/bushes with it. Well, naturally he dropped it at some point and hurt himself. Well...he sued them because the mower didn't tell him not to do that, and won. From that time on, there was a sticker on Lawn Boy brand movers specifically stating that you should not do that.

This seems similar. It's common sense that 150 is too hot to touch, but when the screen shuts off at 150, you do it anyway. What did you expect, that because the screen shut off, the temp at that moment instantly dropped from 150 down to some temp low enough to touch, like...instantly?

 

[Summer]

@Ramahs, Lawn Boy is still sold, as is Toro & Sears Craftsman.

 

[Ramahs]

@Ramahs, Lawn Boy is still sold, as is Toro & Sears Craftsman.

Thanks. I wasn't sure if they were.

 

[RustyOldNail]

All I can say is that if you know that the display shuts off at 150 degrees, then you know that it shuts off while it is too hot to touch. It's freaking common sense. How do you not know that 150 degrees is still too hot to touch?!?!?

When the screen shuts off, you still have to give it some time to still finish cooling.

This reminds me of a story I heard about an old brand of Lawn Mowers called "Lawn Boy" lawn mowers. At some point a while back, some idiot decided to pick up his Lawn Boy lawn mower and try to trim the sides of his hedges/bushes with it. Well, naturally he dropped it at some point and hurt himself. Well...he sued them because the mower didn't tell him not to do that, and won. From that time on, there was a sticker on Lawn Boy brand movers specifically stating that you should not do that.

This seems similar. It's common sense that 150 is too hot to touch, but when the screen shuts off at 150, you do it anyway. What did you expect, that because the screen shut off, the temp at that moment instantly dropped from 150 down to some temp low enough to touch, like...instantly?

You said, “you do it anyway”. You keep making this assumption as well as accusing me of having no common sense, which perhaps in this case is something you are lacking?

The concept unlike a lawnmower, is this is a HEATING APPLIANCE, that smartly includes a WARNING on the display, that says “HOT”, until a PREDETERMINED temperature, which is set by the manufacturer at 150f. If a new owner is unaware of this, thinking because the display is “off”, that the coil is actually cool or at room temperature, they can potentially be surprised. Also if you were to lend it to someone, or simply let someone else use it, they wouldn’t know this idiosyncrasy.

It would be COMMON SENSE, for one to believe that after a “HOT” message disappears and the controller shuts down, that it’s now SAFE to touch and at room temperature, not still at 150f initially. And the solution is an easy reprogram.

Your lawnmower story, is one of “product misuse”. I’m not misusing the PID.

FROM THE MANUAL:

“When controller is turned off, the coil will stay at a very high temperature for at least 20 min. It will flash “hot” and coil temperature at top display, and it will show “off” at bottom display. DO NOT TOUCH the coil until the controller stop flashing “hot”. The heated coil is very dangerous. It will cause severe burn if touched.”

The above instructions clearly imply that it’s safe to touch the coil, AFTER the controller STOPS “flashing hot”. And the temperature the coil is at after the warning disappears is NOT mentioned in the manual. 150f is not super hot, it’s hotter then I believe it should be, if one were unaware of this and grabbed their NV TCup with the $150 sapphire dish, you would most likely drop it quickly, and well most with common sense, get the idea!

Continue on.....

 

[Ramahs]

Whatever.

 

[EmDeemo]

Sending in mine tomorrow for update.

In the meantime, I’m running the rdk300-b with 16mm coil. The highest temperature I can a hit is 635f. Am I missing a setting?

Hopefully the update will sort out ya issues, having a low top temp doesnt sound right and it should work straight out the box.

 

[SatanLovestoVape]

When the screen shuts off, you still have to give it some time to still finish cooling.

I would assume it was safe to touch as well once the controller is off. I never experience the coil being too hot with my 300B. The 300b screen shuts off at exactly 100 degrees. Immediately after shut off I touch my weedeater and it was cool. If the screen is turned off it should be cool to touch not still hot.

 

[EmDeemo]

It does seem a bit pointless having a feature letting you know that the coil is still too hot to touch once you shut the power off, that stops letting you know its too hot while its still too hot.

The feature fails at its primary purpose

EDIT: Also, hail satan. Nearly forgot.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I would assume it was safe to touch as well once the controller is off. I never experience the coil being too hot with my 300B. The 300b screen shuts off at exactly 100 degrees. Immediately after shut off I touch my weedeater and it was cool. If the screen is turned off it should be cool to touch not still hot.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I spoke with their tech support person, and he said they would be happy to reprogram it, but I didn’t want to ship it back at that time. Perhaps, they are programming them now at 100f, which is reasonable. I have the 300A, and now that the 300B firmware bug has been fixed, I’ll get everything re-flashed.

 

[LesPlenty]

I might snag one the next time they have a sale, what I save may pay for shipping or I might just wait until @710Coils Shane has a sale with the latest version, never hurts to buy from a fellow member when we can!