atadam
Well-Known Member
Greetings from ANKARA! This thread will serve as a showcase for my possible future vaporizers. First working design v1.0.0 (codename: HaloNut) is below. First of all great thx to @Abysmal Vapor for the name and his thread "Halo-log" which have been my main inspiration. A collection 'might' be found here in the future: fc.kesik.top
This versions objectives were
a) All glass air path except for the screens and rods (SS)
b) Doable without power tools (electric screwdriver doesn't count
)
c) Except for GonGs and bubbler, purchasable from local industrial sites (SS), construction and super markets
(even glassware can be ordered from chem. lab suppliers in industrial sites, it just is expensive
that borosilicate though)
##PART LIST## (AFAIR)
#Electronics:
#Body:
#Glassware
#1-(ELECTRONICS) Drill a 3mm hole in an excess wood, and pass SS-Rod through. That will help you grab the rod (trying to hold w/ pliers is not fun). Notch the wood for saw to grab, letting easier grooving of the SS-Rod. Desired method is trying to keep saw blade as horizontal as possible, so groove will end up parallel-ish to the rod. Be patient you only need 2 properly grooved rods (I got 2 out of 5 trials luckily). That's the hardest part, constantly try to fit bulb terminals to not overshoot with saw.
The Bulb fit on the rods within coconut (pic below).
#2-(THREADING WOOD) Cut top and bottom of the coconut, such that 18M-18F GonG passes from top to bottom. However, gets stuck (does not fall from bottom hole). Metal-saw cuts less messy, but takes longer than wood-saw. Then you need to grab the swinging (female side) of GonG with two 100*8*25mm wood. When glass no more shakes, sandwich cork sander in between woods and drill up to 2.5mm. Thread 2.5mm holes with 3mm bolt. Better cut a bolt roughly so that it has a bulge to help threading drill hole. Even then my hands ached btw. Using 6.0mm bit, drill some space for bolt head.
#3-(THE BODY) Screw threaded woods (while sandwiching cork) w/ a bolt. That will form a peg to hold GonG. Fasten it and proceed w/ second hole to be drilled. Do threading again, and secrew with bolt later on (might want to disassemble before threadings). Mine already had the holes, don't let this trick you. After first wooden couple forms the structure, screw second one in a way that 100*8*8mm wooden part is squeezed in between GonG and second row of wood.
Mind that you need to drill two holes (3mm) in the middle of 100*8*8mm wood to place grooved rods. Later on, length of rods will be decided upon by attaching the bulb and sliding it with the rods within glassware.
Afterwards both rods will be bent 90 degrees. Second row of wood will be disattached and drilled so bent rods go through one each. Then second row will be screwed back and hopefully you are almost finished. Try to power the bulb within coconut.
One might wonder why the 100*8*8mm wood is not fastened down to something. Well, since there will be little precision with the tools mentioned, that wood works as an adjuster. Its orientation determines relative positions of the rods (see pic below, especially compare grooves orientations).
#4-(REFLECTOR) At this point, cut 10*9.5*1mm and 10*1.5*1mm SS-sheet. Numbers WILL CHANGE for your case, calculate is using 2*pi*R formula and form a frustum-conical out of the sheet. I did so by forming a "C" and completing it to a circle with an "i" (flat metal sheet) so "Ci". Just check the pics below. Also that conical/cylindrical reflector helps fitting GonGs easier on top of each other. Sometimes GonGs seem to be stuck, a gentle wiggle is all it takes to dismantle.
#5-(SCREENS)
You can use ordinari flat screens to form a dome, but it is not practical since the glass will get real hot. So either use Arizer-like dome screens off shelves, or write your solution to develop the design. Also a bigger than ordinary flat screen, should be placed in the middle of 14M-18F GonG. I ordered SS-mesh (Vandy Vape SS316L mesh), however for the time being some french-press mesh was cut into right size and does the job. DEFINITELY not recommended. The goal is clean air path after all.
(P.S. I broke 2 of my GonGs while taking pictures, thats why above pic has a broken 18M glass)
Since I broke my glasses, no new pics. Down are some old pics to display how the vaporizer looks (all 3 GonGs are within the coconut. Also right-top one shows where your bulb should fall into the second 18M-18F Gong clearly).
Lastly, I would recommend substituting Cork Sanding Block with wood, but it is much easier to drill/screw I must admit. At least source yours from a trustworthy place, a construction market is not the best place sadly.
Just connect your, powerful enough, PSU. Give the vape some minutes to heat up, experiment with thermometer and so on.
Oh, here is a FreeCAD model, (v0.9.0 = v1.0.0)
https://github.com/atadamfc/vapes
This versions objectives were
a) All glass air path except for the screens and rods (SS)
b) Doable without power tools (electric screwdriver doesn't count
)c) Except for GonGs and bubbler, purchasable from local industrial sites (SS), construction and super markets
(even glassware can be ordered from chem. lab suppliers in industrial sites, it just is expensive
that borosilicate though)
##PART LIST## (AFAIR)
#Electronics:
Halogen bulb (G6.35) - Osram 35W (12V)
SS316(L) 3mm Rod (approx 50cm, 3mm was the thinnest possible here)
Crocodile jumper cables (2x)
Bonus: 2.1mm DC jack (male-female)
Bonus: LED Dimmer
SS316(L) 3mm Rod (approx 50cm, 3mm was the thinnest possible here)
Crocodile jumper cables (2x)
Bonus: 2.1mm DC jack (male-female)
Bonus: LED Dimmer
#Body:
Coconut (1x)
Cork Sanding Block (1x)
100*8*25mm wood (4x)
100*8*8mm wood (1x)
40*3mm Bolts (1+4x) - Screws also OK
Cork Sanding Block (1x)
100*8*25mm wood (4x)
100*8*8mm wood (1x)
40*3mm Bolts (1+4x) - Screws also OK
#Glassware
18M-18F adapter (2x)
14M-18F adapter (1x)
14mm Nectar Collector (Pinnacle Hydrotube - Bubbler)
(Arizer-like dome screens are suggested)
#Tools Required14M-18F adapter (1x)
14mm Nectar Collector (Pinnacle Hydrotube - Bubbler)
(Arizer-like dome screens are suggested)
Hobbyist Hand Saw (Metal and Wood)
Electric Screwdriver
Drill Bits (at least 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 6.0 mm)
Philips Screwdriver (for bolts)
Needle Nose Pliers (others OK too)
Sandpaper
##TUTORIAL##Electric Screwdriver
Drill Bits (at least 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 6.0 mm)
Philips Screwdriver (for bolts)
Needle Nose Pliers (others OK too)
Sandpaper
#1-(ELECTRONICS) Drill a 3mm hole in an excess wood, and pass SS-Rod through. That will help you grab the rod (trying to hold w/ pliers is not fun). Notch the wood for saw to grab, letting easier grooving of the SS-Rod. Desired method is trying to keep saw blade as horizontal as possible, so groove will end up parallel-ish to the rod. Be patient you only need 2 properly grooved rods (I got 2 out of 5 trials luckily). That's the hardest part, constantly try to fit bulb terminals to not overshoot with saw.
The Bulb fit on the rods within coconut (pic below).
#2-(THREADING WOOD) Cut top and bottom of the coconut, such that 18M-18F GonG passes from top to bottom. However, gets stuck (does not fall from bottom hole). Metal-saw cuts less messy, but takes longer than wood-saw. Then you need to grab the swinging (female side) of GonG with two 100*8*25mm wood. When glass no more shakes, sandwich cork sander in between woods and drill up to 2.5mm. Thread 2.5mm holes with 3mm bolt. Better cut a bolt roughly so that it has a bulge to help threading drill hole. Even then my hands ached btw. Using 6.0mm bit, drill some space for bolt head.
#3-(THE BODY) Screw threaded woods (while sandwiching cork) w/ a bolt. That will form a peg to hold GonG. Fasten it and proceed w/ second hole to be drilled. Do threading again, and secrew with bolt later on (might want to disassemble before threadings). Mine already had the holes, don't let this trick you. After first wooden couple forms the structure, screw second one in a way that 100*8*8mm wooden part is squeezed in between GonG and second row of wood.
Mind that you need to drill two holes (3mm) in the middle of 100*8*8mm wood to place grooved rods. Later on, length of rods will be decided upon by attaching the bulb and sliding it with the rods within glassware.
Afterwards both rods will be bent 90 degrees. Second row of wood will be disattached and drilled so bent rods go through one each. Then second row will be screwed back and hopefully you are almost finished. Try to power the bulb within coconut.
One might wonder why the 100*8*8mm wood is not fastened down to something. Well, since there will be little precision with the tools mentioned, that wood works as an adjuster. Its orientation determines relative positions of the rods (see pic below, especially compare grooves orientations).
#4-(REFLECTOR) At this point, cut 10*9.5*1mm and 10*1.5*1mm SS-sheet. Numbers WILL CHANGE for your case, calculate is using 2*pi*R formula and form a frustum-conical out of the sheet. I did so by forming a "C" and completing it to a circle with an "i" (flat metal sheet) so "Ci". Just check the pics below
. Also that conical/cylindrical reflector helps fitting GonGs easier on top of each other. Sometimes GonGs seem to be stuck, a gentle wiggle is all it takes to dismantle.
#5-(SCREENS)
You can use ordinari flat screens to form a dome, but it is not practical since the glass will get real hot. So either use Arizer-like dome screens off shelves, or write your solution to develop the design. Also a bigger than ordinary flat screen, should be placed in the middle of 14M-18F GonG. I ordered SS-mesh (Vandy Vape SS316L mesh), however for the time being some french-press mesh was cut into right size and does the job. DEFINITELY not recommended. The goal is clean air path after all.
(P.S. I broke 2 of my GonGs while taking pictures, thats why above pic has a broken 18M glass)
Since I broke my glasses, no new pics. Down are some old pics to display how the vaporizer looks (all 3 GonGs are within the coconut. Also right-top one shows where your bulb should fall into the second 18M-18F Gong clearly).
Lastly, I would recommend substituting Cork Sanding Block with wood, but it is much easier to drill/screw I must admit. At least source yours from a trustworthy place, a construction market is not the best place sadly.
Just connect your, powerful enough, PSU. Give the vape some minutes to heat up, experiment with thermometer and so on.
Oh, here is a FreeCAD model, (v0.9.0 = v1.0.0)
https://github.com/atadamfc/vapes
Last edited by a moderator:
) Thanks are appreciated,but for sure i am not the only one that should be receiving them.I am glad my thread got the spark of creation in you too !There are just arent enough halogen vaporizer on the market today,they taste so good and deliver nice clouds,cant take a pass on that for sure. Eventually i should stop gifting them and make a few for sale,but it is a bit of a financial struggle to get all the parts at once,cause i blew some (which is a lot for me) in the R&D of the project.. Now i know exactly what should i buy and how to source it ,but i guess i will have to save up a bit to get things going for real.. I am happy that at least in the i have figured out of few other working concepts and neat ideas ,which might come to be handy in future,so i dont really consider anything went to waste 
