Smknbud
Well-Known Member
They did. But the issue is not on the exposed surface....rather it appears to be on the mounted surface. I was hoping that this wasn't going to be considered a feature vs correctable manufacturing glitch.
Ascent Vaporizer by DaVinci
- Thread starter Davinci_vaporizer
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They did. But the issue is not on the exposed surface....rather it appears to be on the mounted surface. I was hoping that this wasn't going to be considered a feature vs correctable manufacturing glitch.
OF
Well-Known Member
Interesting observation, but changes in the battery are not likely to be a factor. This is a temperature regulated vape. Like your home heater, the heater here it turned on and kept on until it reaches the desired temperature then shut down until it cools off too much.
As long as there's enough power available to eventually make temperature, all that changes in power output (from improvements in battery or otherwise) do is change the time it's on with each cycle. It does not change the temperature the regulator is set for. Any more than a more powerful heater in you house won't make it hotter unless you change the thermostat. Or a more powerful engine (or better tune up) changes the speed of your car with cruse control engaged.
I don't doubt performance over all has changed, many vapes do. I just think it's due to some factor other than changes in the battery. Putting that 'improved' battery in a new Ascent is unlikely to change that Ascent performance wise. As a guess it's perhaps an effect due to in changes in the way temperature is sensed? The temperature sensor is not actually in the load, but somewhere 'upstream' in the heat flow. Like improved heat transfer between the point in the heater where it's sensed to the center of the load where it's actually used. That is the load temperature went up and you had to change the setting, much like if the thermostat in your house is poorly places so that say opening or closing a window effects it?
We can see this clearly in the Solo. Changing the Power Adapter output over the allowed range (7 to 9 Volts) does not change the actual temperature delivered, but it does change the number of seconds the heater is on in each cycle. I reported this effect in the Solo thread:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-solo.3833/page-615#post-401871
This would be true in regulated cases, unlike open loop ones like Persei, Cera, MF and so on where power follows voltage not regulator settings. Ascent is not like them.
No need to waste an opportunity for more conjecture, how about it's the result of the toxic, evil 'mystery vapror' being driven out???
Very true, but as I just said that would normally lead to more sessions per charge, not any change in actual temperature. A tune up won't make your curse controlled car go faster, it will just get more MPG (go further on a tank of gas).
OF
i still think a large problem is communications. once the specs have been communicated and understood, there is no reason why slave labor can't be as good as first world labor. they do electronics pretty well.
on the other hand, most products don't heat up to 440°F ... well, there were those few notebooks that self combusted, but not recently.
@OF ... i liked your post about temp measurements in the Solo, and i was going to make some comments about k-type thermocouple (i use the same 0.010" uninsulated type you have) and temp measurements but that thread was 5 pages past your comment by then. You could PM if you want to discuss.
alphabj
Well-Known Member
The rep I spoke with on the phone didn't mention a film at all. He said that the people assembling it were scratching the screens by accident during assembly. It sounds like they did put a film on during assembly, but I don't think they left it on. I think that if most people look closer, all such problems are due to scratching.
Smknbud
Well-Known Member
I have no scratches on the surface. The 'defect'/issue is clearly on the bottom side.
I have an original DV with a display screen, and while smaller, looks of similar material and is flawless.
OF
Well-Known Member
Thanks very much, glad it's of interest. I'm not at all surprised you too are using 'the right stuff' TC wise, you seem to have the technology wired down pretty tight to me. It has drawbacks of course, but is the 'smart money' way here I think?
Given more resources (like a spot welder) I'd have welded the TC leads to the cup. You do know that you can do that in two locations, right? That is the Chromel lead in one spot to the SS, the Alumel one in another (different) spot to the cup, and still get 'the right' reading? Many do not, but it's in the Omega Book, and does work well. Much better than trying to stack up the welds and dealing with the thermodynamics issues....... In a fun way it turns out the signal is not developed in the welded junction but in the leads where the temperature drop is. The weld is (hopefully) a short, no signal can happen there. In spite of 'conventional wisdom'.
It's at least giving us useful relative (if not absolute) information to ponder over. Solo seems to be more than a little off from their advertised temperatures. The steps are maybe twice as big as they say? Maybe even a mite more?
Fun stuff.
Thanks very much for the PM offer, I hadn't considering bothering you..... I may well take you up on it if and when I have something out of the ordinary or useful to relate?
Perhaps when I've had a chance to carry the measurements through to the actual load temperature some more fun stuff will present itself.....
OF
Reflections
Well-Known Member
So have we determined if the exposed green circuit board by the charging inlet a bad thing? Time to send back?
rsqemt911
Well-Known Member
Mine is a little less than 24 hours away so I will look at mine and let you know what I uncover.
I suspect it may be an issue and will lead to loose solders or pinched wires or something along those lines. May have had something to do with the wonky charging port issues/ loose connection to charge cable that some people have complained of. Does yours have any of that?
grokit
well-worn member
My theory is pretty simple: The supplier of the lcd screen put the requested protective film on the wrong side. The assembly instructions to leave the film on would have been correct if the film had been applied to the correct (out)side of the display, but it was not.
This resulted it two separate problems: the display has no protection so it scratches on the outside surface because the protective film is not there; and the film is still on the back, separating from the display's backside causing the visual blemishes beneath the surface.
Reflections
Well-Known Member
rsqemt911.. Outside of the scratched lcd and the leather not being glued properly ,there are no other issues.
Smknbud
Well-Known Member
My take on it is that it was designed that way and has been like that thru all the months of testing and never presented itself as an issue. The issues were dealing with now are QC problems and apparently some silicon material sourcing.
alphabj
Well-Known Member
That's certainly possible, but from how the rep described it and how it looked, the scratching seemed to be going on in the inside of the display, not the outside. I think DV mentioned something about a film and so everybody started thinking they left a film inside (which it sorta looks like that), when it was just scratched on the inside. I can't see any film peeling in mine, just the very light scratching (on the inside) from trying to position the screen. But maybe only some people are having the film left in.
nigel
And shepherds we shall be,for Accuracy & Discovery
That is incorrect. There are 2 PROBLEMS.
A unit may have one problem, both, or none.
The most common problem is the film/coating issue. A lot of the people that have that have said they don't feel it is that much of an issue as it isn't seen while the display is one.
A lot smaller number have scratched screen cover. In my mind, this is the bigger issue, but thankfully, it affects few. If the screen is as bad as that photo that was posted when this was all first brought up, I'd ask to get it exchanged.
alphabj
Well-Known Member
I'm curious as to how you're certain that the film issue is not just a misdiagnosis of the scratching issue. The scratches on my display are very slight and not nearly as horrible-looking as that one photo that was posted. I just never remember there officially being 2 verified problems.
nigel
And shepherds we shall be,for Accuracy & Discovery
alphabj
Well-Known Member
OK. So some units were just scratched because there was no film? And then the ones that had the film didn't get scratched, but the film started peeling off?'Cause I've seen a unit with the "film/coating" issue in person now.
nigel
And shepherds we shall be,for Accuracy & Discovery
Unfortunately, I haven't seen one of the scratched units in person, so the best I could do is comment on the photo.
DV has said the film/coating was to prevent scratches. I don't think units shipped without this film/coating, so I don't believe the scratched units are scratched for a lack of coating.
Because a few people claim to have both problems (again, I haven't seen the scratches in person), I would tend to suspect that the scratches are on a different layer/part.
My
. Anyone that thinks they have both issues want to comment here?
Medical Mark
Well-Known Member
Hey I have some hash I can try for you, hash in the glass jar or hash in the heating chamber or sand which between herb ? Name your pleasure. I need to try it anyway.
Cheers medical mark
Cheers medical mark
Yeah someone asked me about hash in the ascent a couple pages ago. I haven't done a bubble run in forever so I haven't had any to try. I've used wax and shatter and sap in the cans with good results and kief in the bowl with outstanding results! But no hash. 
Reflections
Well-Known Member
Here are a few very short newbie vids lol..trying to find my sweet spot. Packed tite with no beads or spacers.
k0udek
Active Member
Oh man that would be so nice! I only use hash (moroccan pollen in my case) most part of the times to medicate and i've been looking for a stealth vape like the Ascent, so if it vape hash like a champ i'll only have to wait they come to europe
I'll be looking for your reports
Reflections
Well-Known Member
It is! Just followed everyones advice and seems to be getting better and better...I'd feel more secure knowing it's ok to continue to vape it with the circuit board exposed.
Smknbud
Well-Known Member
I postponed my RMA for a swap after a phone call to Davinci.
As I stated earlier my only remaining issue was with the screen. After talking to them, they are unaware if new shipments will come with the screen deficiencies or not. They did promise, and in writing, that if new batches arrive free of the screen defects, I can then proceed with swap.
Now enjoying some Church Indica. Lowered my temp from 395 to 385. I'll even try lower next time. Good suggestion temp wise @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd.
Packed 1/4 bowl puck spaced with cotton. Real nice clouds. I'm in a good place buzz wise.
As I stated earlier my only remaining issue was with the screen. After talking to them, they are unaware if new shipments will come with the screen deficiencies or not. They did promise, and in writing, that if new batches arrive free of the screen defects, I can then proceed with swap.
Now enjoying some Church Indica. Lowered my temp from 395 to 385. I'll even try lower next time. Good suggestion temp wise @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd.
Packed 1/4 bowl puck spaced with cotton. Real nice clouds. I'm in a good place buzz wise.
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
The Church is an awesome indica!