I need to replace the bottom plate (cover) it's cracked.
I was thinking to make a Aluminum one?
Does
@Pipes still make them?
Finally I will have a rebuilt unit and unbreakable parts for my SOLO.
Lots of folks have cracked plates for sure. I have a new type loaner that's been out twice. and 'passed around a bit' no doubt, but never disassembled. I took the battery out to test it the other day and noticed two cracks........
AFAIK nobody (and that includes Pipes) makes a replacement base plate. As we've discussed before, the base plate is the basic chassis for the unit. The boards screw to it, as does the oven. More over, it carries the serial number, which while optional becomes mandatory once the maker puts it on. Fun rule. Except for a few things like guns and cars, serial numbers are not required by law. But if they are there from the maker (even if he doesn't really track them) it's 'prima facie' evidence it's stolen. Even if it's yours legally and you remove it. I seriously doubt anyone cares, but if the cops really wanted you..........
I think Pipes still sells kits of backup washers and screws......I hope he still does, I can't find my stash of tiny SS hardware......
Anyway Aluminum would work OK if it was something like 6061 T6 would do it if thick enough:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6061_aluminium_alloy
It has to be hard to work, 20XX, 30XX and such won't cut it. Too soft. That alloy is a 'Precipitation hardening' affair where material properties can be controlled by 'heat treating' like with carbon steels. Airplanes live on the stuff. T6 is a standard 'machinable' heat treatment that can be used 'raw' (without further treatment or finish), although (caustic etch and) black anodize would be cheap and a great finish, local shops should be able to finish a few for you for a sixer of Dos XX if you ask nice.
Better, I think, would be Stainless Steel. It could be made thinner that way and remain strong enough.
In either case it should be a simple plate over the existing base I think. And I'd seriously consider doing 'counterbored' (flat bottom) holes rather than the countersink Arizer used. I think 'wedge action' on the countersinks does the damage in many/most cases. It could even be two thin plates glued together?
Good luck with it. Hopefully it'll be a CNC adventure (Computer controlled) so once you get it right you can whomp up a bunch for your friends?
OF