Got a PA+Stand on the way from Pipes too(thanks man)!
Naw I wouldn't say all that. Because I usually insert my whip and let it warm up some before I can really good banging good hits out of it. So there has to be "some" conduction going on. Not much but some.The da Buddha is 100% convection !
And there you said it. I bolded it for you So then I was right? Its more like 98% convectionLets not derail this thread.. Pm if you want more info but I assure you it is 100% convection. Convection is hot air being pulling through whatever your heating, that warm up you say you are doing really would have minimal to no effect on the herb.
I believe they are essentially the same. I don't think you can go wrong with either one. I have the pinnacle WT, and I absolutely love it. I prefer it mainly because I think f-bomb is a stupid name to have plastered on it!I'm having trouble deciding between the pinnacle wt for the solo or the f-bomb. Please chime in if you have either or both and let me know what you do and do not like about them
The one thing is to temper expectations. The Solo is not a desktop vape, while many of us treat it as such, it is a battery powered hand-held. The power is limited.
As long as you don't expect desktop performance from a hand held, the solo can treat you right. There is a reason so many of us are pumped for the CLOUD EVO, more power, better efficiency, big huge clouds etc..
The Solo is best when compared to hand-helds.
I'm having trouble deciding between the pinnacle wt for the solo or the f-bomb. Please chime in if you have either or both and let me know what you do and do not like about them
I don't disagree with you, but the ceramic solos could stand up to even an LSV in terms of cloud production, so some of us are coming from a place where they really could run with the big boys. If you have a ceramic solo with a PA, you've pretty much got a first class desktop vape in my opinion, even though I usually go with the Cloud for ease of use.
I bought those same ones for my SOLO'S!OF - Do you think the glass flowers you've suggested for the Ascent will fit in the Solo stem? Also, what do you think of the honeycomb screens below for the Solo, 3/8" diam.? Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/Honeycomb-Screens-3-7-9mm2mm-smoke-screens/dp/B00BFO01AE/ref=pd_sbs_misc_4
Great! Do they make a difference in any way?
OF - Do you think the glass flowers you've suggested for the Ascent will fit in the Solo stem? Also, what do you think of the honeycomb screens below for the Solo, 3/8" diam.? Thanks!
I use them sometimes.Great! Do they make a difference in any way?
Trvb?TRVB has the PN WT on sale for $ 50 with code PNWT50 .
Until Oct/31 .
Howdy and welcome to the forum. Couple points here. There have been a number of cases where the charger was marginal for the output voltage to kick the Solo into charge mode.I just tested the charger with a multimeter and it's outputting 12V. I also measured the current draw when the Solo is plugged in; it is 65mA * 120V = 7.8W power consumed. During normal charging it should use >12W, so the Solo must be drawing less than the normal 1A. Also, I found out that it is in fact charging, but VERY slowly. After several hours I managed to get a few hits out of it when I turned it on.
EDIT: Took the damn thing apart and tested the battery voltage. It's 7.4V and that's what the pack is rated for. If the battery was dead I would expect to see less than 7.4V. I guess the Solo is just FUBAR and is falsely detecting a dead battery.
Arizer has said that it's a production run number and that's all. They don't reveal what changes are made between production runs. There could be many or none. The point is that lots of people fuss over getting the "latest
TRVB has the PN WT on sale for $ 50 with code PNWT50 .
Until Oct/31 .
I race rc cars with lipos and sometime the low voltage cut off ( the circuit that tell the lipos to stop discharging so they don't go into the dangerous too low voltage ) is somehow bypassed and if the lipo goes below the lowest voltage it should, then when we put it back on the charger the charge will give you a reading that says your battery is too low to charge. At that point you have to find an old NiCad charger and put the battery on it at low amperage then charge the battery for a short time , like 1 min or less then check it again on a lipo charger and a lot of the time the NiCad charge will have brought the batteries up just enough to let the lipo charger take over and do its job. Not sure if this is happening here or not but it sound like you used the batteries to there very bottom point so I"m thinking this could help.. How you would attach it to a NiCad charger is another story and would probly involve cutting open that wire leading to the plug to get a NiCad charger attached........ hmm thinking outside the boxI just tested the charger with a multimeter and it's outputting 12V. I also measured the current draw when the Solo is plugged in; it is 65mA * 120V = 7.8W power consumed. During normal charging it should use >12W, so the Solo must be drawing less than the normal 1A. Also, I found out that it is in fact charging, but VERY slowly. After several hours I managed to get a few hits out of it when I turned it on.
EDIT: Took the damn thing apart and tested the battery voltage. It's 7.4V and that's what the pack is rated for. If the battery was dead I would expect to see less than 7.4V. I guess the Solo is just FUBAR and is falsely detecting a dead battery.