I disassembled the Solo. Here are the results. Findings:
1. The unit runs on two 18650 LiPo cells configured as 2S terminating in an JST-RCY connector. The cells are typical OEM cells shrink wrapped in blue and matrix printed with among other things 7.2V 2200mAH.
2. There is a modificaiton that can be made that will increase air flow resulting in potentially better fluffier hits with the caveat that its more possible to get AVB in the air path.
Now for the sexy pictures:
Arizer Solo take-apart
Note: No person dead or alive will take responsibility for anything you do to your own Arizer Solo. If you fuck something up taking it apart look in the mirror for blame. In other words I will not take any responsibility for anything to do with you and your Solo. There is a chance you will break something. I do not encourage you to do anything with your Solo. You've been warned.
Remove the 4 small screws on the bottom of the solo. The unit slides apart:
With the chassis out of the case, you can see its in 2 pieces clipped together with a plastic tongue. Bending the tongue under will enable the pieces to come apart:
When they come apart you can see the battery pack (blue):
The battery sits loose in the case. The connector is wrapped in black:
The battery pack is two standard 18650's in 2S with total capacity of 2200mHA according to the print on the pack. This means simple 18650's can be used to replace the pack and even increasing capacity. Here is the pack and 2 standard 18650 cells:
The battery uses a JST-RCY connector. This is great because it makes exchanging the battery a lot easier. Soldering will be required however to put the replacement pack together unless you have a source for pre-made packs. The connectors are real JST connecotrs and not cheap knock-offs. This echos the high quality of the rest of the Solo:
Here a couple shots of the main board. DIfferent lighting for different views. Observations: I can see components that make up a switching power supply, the likely culprit of the high frequecy pitch some people here. I do not think there is anything that can be done about it. Most of the chips have the part number scraped off, a typical tactic to prevent reverse engineering the circuit. Fine. I haven't been able to really reverse engineer the boards. I see 5 of what appear to the be the same chip, 2 multi-pin chips so its likely really digitally controlled. probably custom mictro controllers for this application. the smaller one at the top might be and A/D type chip to convert the temp sensor to digital.
I guess a couple drivers for the battery charging and the heater (black/red wires on the left and right respectively).
Note the 5 pin connector pads at the top left. interesting. a programmer or diagnostic interface?
Digging deeper into the heater head, first remove the 4 screws:
Then unclip to the top of the unit from the bottom:
The top and bottom separated:
The heater assembly matches to the chassis. There is a pair of thickish teflon coated wires and a pair of thin teflon coated wires going from the chassis to the heater. I assume the thick set is power to the heater and the thin is the temperature sensor:
Observation: on the inside of the case shell there is evidence of AVB suggesting AVB can get into the chasis:
The top of the crucible. Note the thin metal cruicible sits inside the high temp plastic chassis with 4 spacers to to hold it out from the chassis wall. This provides a small free channel for air flow up through the small holes in the crucible.
Further, the crucible appears held in place and there is more space under the bottom of the crucible and the bottom of the chassis suggesting the heater is under the crucible. This would be good instead of say touching one part of the wall of it, because it would provide more even heat flow:
The top of the chassis has a smaller inner ring (in the middle). this ring actually buts up against the top of the crucible and plugs the 4 air gaps. no wonder there is constricted airflow. Later I will show a mod you can do to increase airflow:
This is the view inside with the upper part on, but without the plastic spacer showing the airflow path:
This is normally how the pieces would fit together:
So if you put it back together with the spacer out:
And then drop the spacer in the top, it will leave some space above the airflow gaps to allow more air to flow:
I tried it and it gives a little more airflow. bigger clouds but less stamina to produce them. So you have a choice now, both in batteries and in to mod to increase airflow.
Here is how i pack: small screen in the bottom:
and then the salad and another small screen. nice thing is this enables for different packing densities: you can go loose for more airflow and big fluffy clouds, or tight for more regulated flow, smaller clouds, and no AVB in the crucible:
One thing I should point out about the airflow mod: it means you will be more likely to get AVB in the airflow and/or the unit chassis so beware of that.
. however, it only addresses why those holes would be there, not if they restrict air flow or not. All i'll say is,
