Does the O-ring you used come in contact with the metal bowl? With the grooved black ring theres a tiny gap. If your not using that flimsy grooved ring, mind sending it to me? Its a high temp teflon and works great with my stem. But I may try your method while replacing my dried up teflon ring!
Arizer Solo
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Does the O-ring you used come in contact with the metal bowl? With the grooved black ring theres a tiny gap. If your not using that flimsy grooved ring, mind sending it to me? Its a high temp teflon and works great with my stem. But I may try your method while replacing my dried up teflon ring!
OF
Well-Known Member
AFAIK none has ever been posted. In fact, I recall guys failing to get them from the maker (the only source since it seems to be a custom part).
This is, in fact, the problem that led to the search for the o-ring mod. If we could simply buy new (tighter) seals and install them instead we'd be Jake and not need the #113 ring.
The maker doesn't support guys taking the heaters apart, and IMO rightly so.
You're welcome to use whatever routine you want of course, but if you really want to fly your OCD flag here I'd suggest you rethink it. Specifically, compulsively charging 'to the very top' is probably the worst thing you can do to the battery. Seriously, look it up. You get maybe 300 cycles. Back it off .1 Volt or so and you double the lifespan of the battery. Your buddy has better practice here actually. It's not good to fully drain them either, but really not as bad.....and Solo keeps you from really hammering them with the cutoff.
Check out:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Especially around chart 4, interesting stuff.
In honor of this, many Military applications limit charging to 4.0 or even a bit under to limit/remove having batteries fail in the field. They live with lower operating time per charge.
IMO if you want to get maximum useful life out of your Solo battery always check battery level when you start a session. It's OK to finish a session that shows no battery left (current production, early 'meters' were different) since there's a fair size safety margin there, but charge after that (that is never go more than one session past 'no battery left' on the meter). Then, when you charge go to the top LED lit (changes between 4.0 and 4.1 Volts per cell) but before the charging light stops flashing (4.2 Volts) stop the charge. Don't let it go solid. This will, 'by the books' take you from 300 cycles to over 1000.
Your call, of course, but that's my advice if you want other OCD guys to stand aside and tip their hats as you walk by.
Interesting idea, but I'm not so sure they first designed in an industry standard o-ring then changed their mind without changing the cover. Rather, I think the seal was a key design point from the start. I don't think it's an accident the way it works. I think it was a custom part from the very start, like (nearly) everything else in the heater is. Not, I guess, that that really matters?
What I do advise against is average guys messing with those four screws. Many guys have broken the heater leads this way. I'm one of them. You can't even see the danger from the top, let alone deal with it if you don't fully understand the assembly. The clips hold the two halves together until the screws are in (so it's a secure sub assembly), once the screws are in there's no need for the clips (indeed probably half the ones I've seen are unlatched and doing just fine). However, the four frail wires you can't see coming out the bottom of the center section solder to a PCB attached elsewhere. The four screws are keeping the wires safe by keeping the heater body firmly down on the four support posts, remove the screws, the heater moves (and the PCB does not) and you've got a dead Solo that IMO should not be covered under warranty (tampering by user).
Adding the ring on top (and removing it any time) without disturbing the internals further violate the warranty, removing those screws does even if you 'get away with it'. My advice is to use the ring as the rest of us are and not mess with those screws unless you really know what you're doing and can repair it yourself if you screw up like I did?
Regards to all,
OF
spoutti
Well-Known Member
If you dont get that teflon ring, I would suggest the oring addonn. It will put pressure on the teflon ring and maybe squeeze the rip together.
Jab
Well-Known Member
Yeah sorry I pressed "post" and realized I hadn't commented on that. Was editing while more posts were coming in and I didn't want to confuse people. As for the point you made: Yep thank you, if I decide to buy a backup I will definitely ask them about that and should they lower the price, it would indeed change things. I'm not a price nazi, I just thought their listed price was pushing it a tad bit, is all
EDIT:
OF said:
To follow-up on this, I've since tested the battery with one of those cheap 9V battery testers and the Solo battery is NOT dead. In fact it looks like it's completely full (can't give exact measurement, meter just has red/yellow/green ranges). This would imply the battery has actually been charging during all the reset attempts etc (even though the light shows were going on).
I guess it's still possible that the circuitry on the battery is failing (since the voltage seemed over 7.4V on that 9V scale, but I could be wrong and it could just be "full" as it should be).
Anyway, thanks for help guys/ladies, it looks like I have no other choice than to send it in and be without a portable for New Year's Eve
(I don't think the gf would appreciate me buying another one right now -- what with all the expenses december brings -- while I have a big-ass Volcano sitting here)
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olivianewtonjohn
Well-Known Member
clouded vision
Well-Known Member
Nothing to worry about @olivianewtonjohn the weight shouldn't pose any problem but I wouldn't set it down with the hydratube on it. the higher center of gravity can cause it to tip easier which could lead to broken glass. Here is a picture of the heater and you can see the supports in there.
I don't think that the 9 volt tester you have will give a valid reading on "defective" batteries. You see the testing is looking for voltage "without" load. Many battery failures will measure good until you load them down and then the voltage drops. Causing the Solo to go wacky. Not saying the battery is bad for sure but that is where the odds lay. You would need to measure under load. Perhaps a car light bulb or 2.?
Good luck,
olivianewtonjohn
Well-Known Member
Excellent news great design. I'm hoping Arizer didn't fuck it up, the reports of lower temps/extraction is worry someNothing to worry about @olivianewtonjohn the weight shouldn't pose any problem but I wouldn't set it down with the hydratube on it. the higher center of gravity can cause it to tip easier which could lead to broken glass. Here is a picture of the heater and you can see the supports in there.
I have an extensive knowledge of other battery types, and cant see why starting at the top would be a bad thing? I have ran my vape all day every day,from wakeup til pass out for about 90% of the last year and a half, battery hasnt lost any noticable life. About 1 bar per 12min session. and through testing I find get 2-3 bowls after zero bars. It never gets below 2 bars usually,as I plug it in even between loading bowls. The only thing that going to kill battery life quicker IMO is full depth of discharge cycles, or a charging circuit that is ill designed. I have trust that the charging system is putting in proper voltage and amperage in. My friends 8 month old solo dies after about 4 bowls, and I can honestly say this is without a doubt from starting at 3-4 charge and getting the red light mid session before putting back on the charger. full discharge from a low starting point...
OF
Well-Known Member
Bummer, I was afraid of that. The symptoms around the failure were not good..... Pipes has a good point, in general, about battery testing, but here I think your test was conclusive enough. Most of those testers I've seen have a modest load but even without it Li-ions don't 'sag' nearly as much as other types. The battery read' normal (had plenty of charge) before the failure, and the Solo seems to charge it normally......looks like a hard failure to me, time to send it in?
Good show you've got backup, but that Volcano won't seem quite so portable when you get to the end of the extension cord.......
Best wishes
As another member showed the cup is secure inside the ribs in the body, but the cup is 'only' glued into place with furnace cement. If it breaks free, the lead wires will break.
It's a bigger risk than with a smaller WT for sure, and remember the maker never intended such loads, Arizer doesn't sell GonG adapters, they don't expect their unit to be 'hung up by the heater' (inverted on a WT), let alone expect someone to use a strengthened stem as a lever. I'd be careful, even more so than using the F Bomb or PNWT. It's duty the Solo wasn't designed for, although most would say it does fine (me included).
Also I think Arizer would have to honor the lifetime warranty on the heater (the part you'd break potentially) since they didn't specifically forbid this use in the pre sale conditions. Not, I think, they would give you any pushback anyway.
So I suggest going for it, just being careful. At some point the Solo is an accessory for the (larger) WT.
Good luck with it.
Did you read the reference I suggested? If you had, I suspect you'd know why I said what I did, anecdotal experience not withstanding, the testing data shows what works for longest life.
Specifically what's going on has to do with the plate chemistry I beleive. When you make any battery you have to set it up so the anode or cathode runs out of 'stuff' first. IIRC car batteries are biased to the PbO2 side for instance? When you run out of chemical to convert, so long as the other plate is 'working' (and therefore conducting) further action takes place (often at higher voltage, if even by a bit), this can damage the plate (in our case a bit each time). This is the sort of thing that gives limited lifespan to batteries. It's what 'wears out'.
That reference is far from unique, it's just a lot easier to follow than many.
Here, check out what Wiki has to say:
"Lithium-ion is charged at approximately 4.2 ± 0.05 V/cell except for "military long life" that uses 3.92 V to extend battery life. Most protection circuits cut off if voltage greater than 4.3 V or temperature greater than 90 °C is reached."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery
Makers love to push it so you get maximum battery life per charge (sells well) and are often not concerned about selling you replacements soon after the warranty runs out. But note what the 'smart money' in the Military does in cases where they want to depend on the battery for a long time...... I think we too would welcome "extended battery life" if we knew how to get it? 'cept we do, or at least some of us think we do.
OF
olivianewtonjohn
Well-Known Member
OF
Well-Known Member
You're very welcome, of course, thank you. Informed choices is the game plan, right?
On that note, first rate tip for those poor souls who are currently Sololess.......I think some will be more comfortable with the proven version?
Thanks for your continued contributions on the Fourm, the 'new guys' need accurate, useful information and this seems to be the place to get it. Lord knows it answered a lot of newbie questions for me when I needed answers.
OF
EVlL 55
Well-Known Member
...like i said,...once i put driver to screw i knew any thpe of warranty is now void,..
I actually think its a low down dirty shame that any type of mod should be done on the device at all....
The mondy i paid worked fine right out of my pocket,..but the device shure isnt 100% right out of the box.
I just focused and got lucky then i guess....i am not a vaporizer repair man by any means,..
Its just sad that the devices true potential is marred by stupid shit.
Im a cook,..i have to taste everything before it goes to the dining room,...
Its like they never "hands on" worked the solo
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ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I have a few cars and some are European some American.
I know how to work on them and got them pretty wired I think!
Now the SOLO is not perfect at all.
It has need for improvements as well.
However to take it a part and do my own repairs is not rocket science.
For this reason I don't keep buying portable vaporizes looking for the HOLY GRAIL!
Why their isn't one!
I do not want to learn another device of this kind.
I think the SOLO is like a old FORD PICK UP so simple yet functional!
Can the SOLO be better?
Most likely!
Does ARIZER need to do anything?
Probably not!
Looper
Well-Known Member
Sorry if this is double post, but apparently the new 2014 arizer solo model allows you to use it while charging. Cheers.
http://www.vapornation.com/arizer-solo-vaporizer.html
http://www.vapornation.com/arizer-solo-vaporizer.html
photobooth
Well-Known Member
Was about to post the same thing, makes me want to upgrade from my 2012 model!
oli
Well-Known Member
just a quickie,
TO ALL NEWBEES USING THE SOLO
I 've had my SOLO for 1 month now, was very happy with it,
But NOW!
WOW WOW WOW a couple of days ago I forgot to pack my stem the way I've usually done it, fairly tightly packed that is, and what a surpise, a complete revelation as far as vapor goes. So thick, a pure joy
All the while I have been packing my stems way to tight!!! now I simply fill it, press it gently, only to make sure its all in with no spilling, so not hard at all.
just wanted to share
TO ALL NEWBEES USING THE SOLO
I 've had my SOLO for 1 month now, was very happy with it,
But NOW!
WOW WOW WOW a couple of days ago I forgot to pack my stem the way I've usually done it, fairly tightly packed that is, and what a surpise, a complete revelation as far as vapor goes. So thick, a pure joy
All the while I have been packing my stems way to tight!!! now I simply fill it, press it gently, only to make sure its all in with no spilling, so not hard at all.
just wanted to share
Caligula
Maximus
A lot of people would argue that the OEM design is actually the best overall configuration for this device. Most of the time modifications are done to adjust the product to personal preference, not to "fix" something that is broken.
OF
Well-Known Member
Great post! I points to a very important idea, experiment with technique. Material, heat, draw, grind and personal preferences make other guys 'best way' perhaps not best for you. Not to mention the odd cloud chaser or flavor freak who might be looking for something very different from you.
Vary the routine and follow the results you like.
Excellent point as well. The mods we do are to customize the Solo for personal reasons I think. Some guys like the restriction of stock stems, others jump from PVHES to PVHES.
I think it's great we have such options......we don't have to 'do it the Army way'.
OF
michaelstone
Well-Known Member
we've been discussing this for a couple weeks now.
OF, I checked into it, and it appears that you dont want to keep a li-ion battery STORED for an extended duration at 100% charge. I'm glad I know that now, but assuming one is going to be using the Solo the very next morning, I feel topping off is the way to go for a daily user. Again I'm not well versed in lithium technology,but I would assume if 100% charges were somehow detrimental to battery performance in any way, under regular use, that the manufacturers definition of 100% charged would actually be 95-99% of the cells capacity, limited by the charging system. I'm definitely going to leave the Solo half charged during TBs from now on though!
Hexi
Well-Known Member
just a quickie,
TO ALL NEWBEES USING THE SOLO
I 've had my SOLO for 1 month now, was very happy with it,
But NOW!
WOW WOW WOW a couple of days ago I forgot to pack my stem the way I've usually done it, fairly tightly packed that is, and what a surpise, a complete revelation as far as vapor goes. So thick, a pure joy
All the while I have been packing my stems way to tight!!! now I simply fill it, press it gently, only to make sure its all in with no spilling, so not hard at all.
just wanted to share
Same thing happened to me the other night.
IMO for the best clouds, don't pack tight, but be prepared for 3 hits and done or 4 hits and done. I get greedy and try and pack tighter for more clouds, and it ends up just slowing everything down. And the clouds get big, then nothing then you need a stir etc...
Of course, not packing tight is in the OEM instruction booklet
Dear Abby OF or Pipes -
While I don't ever let the battery run down to zero, I do let it charge to 100% only because I leave it and forget it. When I remember to come back to it and pull the plug, it's already been fully charged for quite some time. What's a guilt-ridden forgetful Solo babysitter to do?
While I don't ever let the battery run down to zero, I do let it charge to 100% only because I leave it and forget it. When I remember to come back to it and pull the plug, it's already been fully charged for quite some time. What's a guilt-ridden forgetful Solo babysitter to do?