Arizer Solo

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Could u give me specific bit I should use for my dewalt for the turbo

Are making a TURBO so you can load whole flowers without a screen?
I've just loaded whole flower nuggets in a stock stem non turbo without a screen.
Not bad!
Why not Mix it up?
 
ataxian,
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thesoloman

Well-Known Member
I would use the 13th bit, counting left to right
il_340x270.196014709.jpg

@Zow237
I need to remind you to use safety glasses, I also use a respirator, glass dust is bad stuff.
I use the round bit to do the channels on the side, and i would use a skinny bit to drill out the inside of the stem. I will also let you know that drilling out the 4 holes inside the stem is the hardest part, and this is when you are most likely to break the stem. I also use a towel on the table to reduce vibrations, which can also break your stem.
 
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Macsen

New Member
Well, my Solo has packed in after a measly 4 months. Not impressed at all. It refuses to do anything but constantly beep, with all the lights flashing. This happened on Saturday, at which time I emailed the Ebay seller Good gets UK for assistance under warranty. Still waiting for a response.....
While I am waiting can anyone tell me how to stop the bloody thing from BEEPING all the time? I know it will stop when the battery eventually dies, but any help is welcome. Shame that the designers didn't see fit to allow the user easy access to the battery...
 
Macsen,

OF

Well-Known Member
I need to remind you to use safety glasses, I also use a respirator, glass dust is bad stuff.

Concern about the glass dust is justified IMO, as is a related problem nobody is mentioning, heat build up.

To counter both, you should do this job wet. Not a lot of water is needed, but you should have enough to both carry away the dust from the cutting area (keep the tool clean) and provide cooling. The water will trap the dust just like using water spray basically ended 'Black lung' and other dust related mining surges.

Just a few drops are needed, but keep working through a small puddle of water and it will be faster, easier, safer and less likely to chip out on you. Remember, there are a lot of edges near by when working on this part of the stem, normally a disqualifying feature (the general advice is to avoid holes within a half inch or so of an edge in a glass piece to avoid stresses chipping bits out. Slow and easy (and wet) is, I think, the key.

BTW, the 'right' bit for this sort if thing is a tube. Balls, cones and such stress the walls of the cut. Traditionally brass tubes with grit would be used for this. Tungsten carbide grit (like used to grind auto valves) works fine....in fine enough grades (I've used 400 grit Colver).

While I am waiting can anyone tell me how to stop the bloody thing from BEEPING all the time? I know it will stop when the battery eventually dies, but any help is welcome. Shame that the designers didn't see fit to allow the user easy access to the battery...

But they did. Remove the four screws, slide out the works, unclip the battery cover, disconnect the battery (connector is beside it). Count to 10 and plug it back in. I bet it works.....

OF
 

thesoloman

Well-Known Member
Concern about the glass dust is justified IMO, as is a related problem nobody is mentioning, heat build up.

To counter both, you should do this job wet. Not a lot of water is needed, but you should have enough to both carry away the dust from the cutting area (keep the tool clean) and provide cooling. The water will trap the dust just like using water spray basically ended 'Black lung' and other dust related mining surges.

Just a few drops are needed, but keep working through a small puddle of water and it will be faster, easier, safer and less likely to chip out on you. Remember, there are a lot of edges near by when working on this part of the stem, normally a disqualifying feature (the general advice is to avoid holes within a half inch or so of an edge in a glass piece to avoid stresses chipping bits out. Slow and easy (and wet) is, I think, the key.

BTW, the 'right' bit for this sort if thing is a tube. Balls, cones and such stress the walls of the cut. Traditionally brass tubes with grit would be used for this. Tungsten carbide grit (like used to grind auto valves) works fine....in fine enough grades (I've used 400 grit Colver).



But they did. Remove the four screws, slide out the works, unclip the battery cover, disconnect the battery (connector is beside it). Count to 10 and plug it back in. I bet it works.....

OF
The first time i tried drilling it i used water, IMO it helps with the dust but ins't necessary, although i am cautious about not letting the stem get too hot, I usually don't hold the bit to the stem for more than 5 seconds. I have found that the round bit is the easiest in my experiences, it makes it easy to get an even cut all the way along the side of the stem, without going to deep. I have the whole set pictured above and I really only use the round ones. I tried the other shapes and none of them have worked as well for me. In theory a tube bit would work(if thats any of the first 6 im my above picture, i think thats what you mean by tube @OF ) however i've found it to be a pain in the ass to try and use.
 
thesoloman,

Macsen

New Member
But they did. Remove the four screws, slide out the works, unclip the battery cover, disconnect the battery (connector is beside it). Count to 10 and plug it back in. I bet it works.....

OF
I'm afraid I don't have a screwdriver small enough to fit these tiny screws. Anyway, its obviously defective so best exchanged while under warranty. Hopefully the replacement will last a lot longer than 4 months..
 
Macsen,

thesoloman

Well-Known Member
I'm afraid I don't have a screwdriver small enough to fit these tiny screws. Anyway, its obviously defective so best exchanged while under warranty. Hopefully the replacement will last a lot longer than 4 months..
Just wondering if you Iso'd it before this happened? A buddy's solo went into constant beep mode after his heater got iso'd.
By iso'd I mean came in contact with isopropyl alcohol
 

Zow237

Well-Known Member
Are making a TURBO so you can load whole flowers without a screen?
I've just loaded whole flower nuggets in a stock stem non turbo without a screen.
Not bad!
Why not Mix it up?
I'm doing it for the airflow and the fact that I've never gotten the whole pack to brown or actually finish vaping the load

So how am I supposed to make a turbo? Any one have a pic of what it's look like inside? Id rather experiment with cheap stems than order the stems from Canada to impatient and quite expensive


mod note: 2 posts merged.
 
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Zow237,

alltoreup

Damn you, party liquor
So how am I supposed to make a turbo? Any one have a pic of what it's look like inside? Id rather experiment with cheap stems than order the stems from Canada to impatient and quite expensive
Hopefully someone will pop in with a pic, but it's basically just a small rim for the screen to rest on. Everything else is gone. Mine is almost ground too far to the edge on one side. It came from PV.
 
alltoreup,

Macsen

New Member
Just wondering if you Iso'd it before this happened? A buddy's solo went into constant beep mode after his heater got iso'd.
By iso'd I mean came in contact with isopropyl alcohol
No , its never been ISO'd. I just give the heater a wipe with a dry cloth now and then.
Good news is its stopped beeping at long last :)
 
Macsen,

Zow237

Well-Known Member
Where the 4 holes are can. I just run a thick enough bit through where they are and it'll have a rim from the glass I don't go through??
 
Zow237,

thesoloman

Well-Known Member
Where the 4 holes are can. I just run a thick enough bit through where they are and it'll have a rim from the glass I don't go through??
In theory yes, you could just drill strait thru, i have found that using a skinny bit, one that fits into one of the 4 holes. and slowley working my way thru the center chunk of glass is the easiest way. Be careful to leave the ring around the edge, sometimes i have had this break off when drilling, it can be really tricky to get it right.
 
thesoloman,
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OF

Well-Known Member
In theory a tube bit would work(if thats any of the first 6 im my above picture, i think thats what you mean by tube @OF ) however i've found it to be a pain in the ass to try and use.

No, those would be cylinders I think? Tubes are hollow. That's the point, you cut a disk out of it rather than grinding everything to dust. Much less cutting to do and the 'plug' in the center keeps things aligned well until the very end of the cut. Traditionally (like the centuries between glass being invented and the widespread usage of industrial diamonds) this was literally done with a brass tube. The end of the tube picks up the abrasive and holds it against the glass.

It's like the difference between using hole saw rather than a huge drill bit to install a doorknob. Or in this case more like not using a chisel? Here, the use of the tube makes the job easier and 'safer' (in terms of not wrecking the part) as well as safer (in terms of no glass dust to worry about. Just a thought, but if I took it in mind to drill out the center of a stem I'd be doing it on the drill press, at slow speed, with a tube and abrasive (and I have lots of diamond bits to pick from).

BTW, I'd also do it while using tape to build the tube OD near the bottom up to nearly the ID of the bowl so the tube stays centered as it grinds the hole.

Where the 4 holes are can. I just run a thick enough bit through where they are and it'll have a rim from the glass I don't go through??

Probably not without having a breakout to a nearby edge, the advantage to using a tube to cut a round groove through the center instead. A tube will stay centered well, but a high speed bit that 'dances' will make a mess.......and it will dance since it's only working on one side of the tool. Hopefully flaws won't call for scrapping the stem. Not impossible, but harder than it needs to be. The big issue is all the edges in the area you're working it, that's where the stresses concentrate. It only takes a small flaw in glass to spread a crack.....think windshields.

OF
 

Zow237

Well-Known Member
I honestly can't follow what u guys are saying to be honest haha I'd have to see it to know what's up I'm so visual
 
Zow237,

olivianewtonjohn

Well-Known Member
I'm doing it for the airflow and the fact that I've never gotten the whole pack to brown or actually finish vaping the load
More airflow wont =darker ABV IME. I get darker bowls with the stock stem vs PVHE stems. IMO I wouldnt mess with the stock stem and get a PV stem so you can have both options rather than a modified/mangeled stem
 

Lusi

Well-Known Member
My PV solo arrived! Funny choice edible packing material. .. lol
While I'm impatiently for to charge. .. I can't the glass in. Any tricks?
I'm curious.doesn't herb and residue fall into heating area? I bought screens just in case. do they go before the herb?

So I do 3 3 minute sessions on 7 then am good to go.... if the stem goes in. Lol
Hard imagine anyone getting baked off of 1 little bowl... it takes an entie volcano chamber and 6 huge bags to me. I'm sure keeping my fingers crossed!

Btw it's aM1B1 model. There was customs shipping fees. :)
 
Lusi,
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Zow237

Well-Known Member
My only problem is my solo will heat on 5 right now n not stay heated as I pull spice had to use on 7 :(

you sir just reminded me of my warm cloud upstairs, thank you sir.
and @Zow237 how did you end up doing it?
I bought a 1/4 diamond bit n just drilled it on highest setting n worked perfect have a screen n a nice hole for more airflow
 
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olivianewtonjohn

Well-Known Member
My PV solo arrived! Funny choice edible packing material. .. lol
While I'm impatiently for to charge. .. I can't the glass in. Any tricks?
I'm curious.doesn't herb and residue fall into heating area? I bought screens just in case. do they go before the herb?

So I do 3 3 minute sessions on 7 then am good to go.... if the stem goes in. Lol
Hard imagine anyone getting baked off of 1 little bowl... it takes an entie volcano chamber and 6 huge bags to me. I'm sure keeping my fingers crossed!

Btw it's aM1B1 model. There was customs shipping fees. :)
Yes do a burn session or 2 at 7 with the cap off until it shuts off (12mins). Then after it shuts off the second time press the stems in while its still hot. Most people put the screen before the herb (the glass screen lets alot of particales through). Lightly pack it and the herb should stay especially after heating up.

What I do heat up to 3. Then I take my stem and put alittle flower in it and lightly pack. Then I invert the solo and put the stem in (so the flower doesnt fall out)
 

Lusi

Well-Known Member
Yes do a burn session or 2 at 7 with the cap off until it shuts off (12mins). Then after it shuts off the second time press the stems in while its still hot. Most people put the screen before the herb (the glass screen lets alot of particales through). Lightly pack it and the herb should stay especially after heating up.

What I do heat up to 3. Then I take my stem and put alittle flower in it and lightly pack. Then I invert the solo and put the stem in (so the flower doesnt fall out)

I've got vapors! :)))
Right now I have some freshly cured OG Kush on 2. No coughing and I taste flavor yet have visible vapor clouds. :) I wish a tad less air resistance, but i'll get used to that easily. I did pack my bowl tight. Is any need stir the bowl?

Do guys use the entire bowl up in 12 minutes or several? So far, no to past two. LOVE that this is silent! :))
 
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