Arizer Solo

WakethBaketh

Well-Known Member
i dont know how true it is and hopefully someone who knows more can chime in but i read somewhere that the closest fit was a ps2 plug with an adapter on the end, 1 out of 3 got it to work, 1 out of 3 gets a fried device...maybe not worth risking it

Yeah I rather not take the risk, thank you for letting me know. I guess I will just buy the the power adapter intended for the Solo.
 
WakethBaketh,

OF

Well-Known Member
I looked around in this thread and searched this thread, but I couldn't find the answer I was looking for. I was thinking of picking up the power adapter for the Solo, but I was wondering if anybody knew any other cheaper alternatives that would do the job?

i dont know how true it is and hopefully someone who knows more can chime in but i read somewhere that the closest fit was a ps2 plug with an adapter on the end, 1 out of 3 got it to work, 1 out of 3 gets a fried device...maybe not worth risking it

So yes, I know a solid supply that will do the job for about half the bucks, but as stated above you'll need to change the connector and (in my case) drop the voltage a bit. It turns out the exact output voltage is critical, it needs to be under 9.0 but over about 8.5 or so. The unit says '9 Volts' but the PA says 8.5 Volts, that's a big clue....or was to me.

I think the consensus was don't take the chance.

I think once again, the Lady has the best advice. Guys have had the ps2 supplies melt down on them, even if you're renting you probably don't want that sort of concern.....unless you like fires?

OF
 

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
i heard the draw on these things is worse than trying to suck a milkshake through a straw, is attaching it to a water pipe with a gong make them better to draw on?

Its about the same as trying to drink a milkshake through a straw IMO. At least with the stock stems anyway. Still was easy tomget huge hits, yu just have to get used to the technique.

Pvhes stems turn it into a whole different experience. I would definetly suggest the pvhegong stems or any pvhes stem
 
Mynameismud,

timmahsan

treEnt
I have some full melt that I have been breaking up and laying on a puff of organic cotton within the solo stem. It seems to be doing the trick, but I don't know how much of a duration it lasts. Should I go till it continues to give off vapor? I don't want to be confused by vapor from the cotton, if that is even possible.
 
timmahsan,

mmenzie

My friends call me "Menz"
^^^ two users in the FC Board with same picture avatar... throws me off every time.... LOL
 
mmenzie,

VaporGuy

Lets Get Baked
i dont know how true it is and hopefully someone who knows more can chime in but i read somewhere that the closest fit was a ps2 plug with an adapter on the end, 1 out of 3 got it to work, 1 out of 3 gets a fried device...maybe not worth risking it
It does work. I've tried it (the original PS2) had to change the connector though to make it fit the solo but it did work. having said that, I would avoid using the knock off one It would be risky to use IMO.
 
VaporGuy,
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Red Indy

Low carbon PSYCHONAUT
It does work. I've tried it (the original PS2) had to change the connector though to make it fit the solo but it did work. having said that, I would avoid using the knock off one It would be risky to use IMO.

I'd rather spend the bucks on the original PA than taking the risk to break the Solo.
If you aren't familiar with how this all works with voltage and changing connectors, just don't do it, it is very tricky and one little mistake is enough to leave you with a broken vaporizer!!!
 

XGerpXDerpX

Well-Known Member
Ima be using mine tonight shit got delivered...whoohoo.....hoping draw is similar to ecigs which im expert with
 
XGerpXDerpX,

VaporGuy

Lets Get Baked
I'd rather spend the bucks on the original PA than taking the risk to break the Solo.
If you aren't familiar with how this all works with voltage and changing connectors, just don't do it, it is very tricky and one little mistake is enough to leave you with a broken vaporizer!!!
there is no need to be an expert all you need is to use this piece to make the connector fit the solo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-5-5x2-1m...=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3f0c6921a9
 
VaporGuy,
So yes, I know a solid supply that will do the job for about half the bucks, but as stated above you'll need to change the connector and (in my case) drop the voltage a bit. It turns out the exact output voltage is critical, it needs to be under 9.0 but over about 8.5 or so. The unit says '9 Volts' but the PA says 8.5 Volts, that's a big clue....or was to me.
OF

My charger has this spec
12VDC 1000 ma - Model SW-120100
 
MonsterWithoutBorders,

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
It does work. I've tried it (the original PS2) had to change the connector though to make it fit the solo but it did work. having said that, I would avoid using the knock off one It would be risky to use IMO.

It certainly is risky. From what I can tell, Arizer has intentionally mislead people by labelling the bottom of the solo to say that it heats on 9 volts. That's just not the case, the QiLi PSU that is sold for the Solo is rated as 8 and a half volts. Now half a volt in theory should not cause too much of a problem, but at the same time the Solo draws over 4 amps in a heating cycle (M102) and the Playstation slim PSU isn't made for that kind of constant power draw. It might work, but I don't know how long or how safe.
 

aesthyrian

Blaaaaah
I'd rather spend the bucks on the original PA than taking the risk to break the Solo.
If you aren't familiar with how this all works with voltage and changing connectors, just don't do it, it is very tricky and one little mistake is enough to leave you with a broken vaporizer!!!

IME the risk is not breaking your solo, but instead burning your whole house down. Those Chinese PS2 Slim adapters are only good as a heat source, and a very unsafe one at that.
 

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
I agree with everyone - when it comes to our beloved vapes its never worth risking to save a few bucks. It's like trying to save money and vaping shwag - it's just not worth it! :puke:
 
mvapes,

pancreas_fractum

Active Member
I, too, was hoping to get a cheap alternative - but obviously not at the risk of breaking my beloved Solo. Just picked one up on ebay for $42.
 
pancreas_fractum,

OF

Well-Known Member
My charger has this spec
12VDC 1000 ma - Model SW-120100

That's correct for a charger. It actually uses about .65 Amps, but we're talking about the Power Adapter which doesn't charge the battery but will run the Solo 'off the wall power'.

but at the same time the Solo draws over 4 amps in a heating cycle (M102) and the Playstation slim PSU isn't made for that kind of constant power draw. It might work, but I don't know how long or how safe.

Are you sure of that current? Did you actually measure it? I measured mine (M1A4). It's just under 2.5 Amps worst case (cold) which drops to closer to 2.0 as it heats. Earlier ones could have used more current I suppose, but if the warm up time had been doubled (as this would seem to indicate) I would expect that to have been noticed, reported, and complained about far and wide. I'll bet it's not using as much current as you think?

I agree with folks about taking chances with a 'make do' supply. The one I'm using is a reasonable quality switcher desktop supply (like a laptop supply typically is, but at 9 Volts and 6 Amps). I'm using less than half the capacity, it runs nice and cool.

OF
 
OF,

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
That's correct for a charger. It actually uses about .65 Amps, but we're talking about the Power Adapter which doesn't charge the battery but will run the Solo 'off the wall power'.



Are you sure of that current? Did you actually measure it? I measured mine (M1A4). It's just under 2.5 Amps worst case (cold) which drops to closer to 2.0 as it heats. Earlier ones could have used more current I suppose, but if the warm up time had been doubled (as this would seem to indicate) I would expect that to have been noticed, reported, and complained about far and wide. I'll bet it's not using as much current as you think?

OF
Yes, and I did it on a M102 which is well known to run much hotter. I'll hook up my M1A4 and see how that goes. But it could be that my MM is on the way out, it is not a very high quality unit and I've been meaning to get a new one.
 
CentiZen,

OF

Well-Known Member
Yes, but keep in mind I was testing the M102 which is well known to run much hotter. I'll hook up my M1A4 and see how that goes.

Interesting. Running hotter should not change heat up time, in fact it should make it longer? If guys were used to getting to temperature in say 90 seconds with M102 and that went to 3 minutes for the next model I can't believe that folks didn't notice that and complain??? Why would they choose to lower the heater current, and if there's a good reason (better performance, longer battery life, etc.) it seems strange guys haven't sniffed that out and made a big deal of it ('cuz in my mind it's a huge deal to change power so radically).

Thanks.

OF
 
OF,

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
Well, to be honest, taking your results into account makes me pretty confused to, I can't really account for a whole amp and a half difference over 20 degrees. I'm starting to doubt my equipment.

When you measured was it on the PSU or a battery pack? I don't get home from work for about an hour but when I do I'll test my MM.
 
CentiZen,

OF

Well-Known Member
Well, to be honest, taking your results into account makes me pretty confused to, I can't really account for a whole amp and a half difference over 20 degrees. I'm starting to doubt my equipment.

When you measured was it on the PSU or a battery pack?

PS current (at 8.5 Volts), battery current would be lower still. This is a closed loop system with no proportional control. It's full blast or off, like your home heater, not variable power. You turn it on and then cut power to zero when you make temperature (actually heater power goes to zero, the electronics still draws a bit). The extra 20 degrees is not related to power but is the result of heating say 15 seconds longer. When you change temperatures the heater and power don't change, all you do is change the temperatures you turn the heat off and back on again. It's most likely a software, not hardware, thing. Doubling the power would normally introduce a whole host of possible problems, it doesn't make sense somehow.....

OF
 
OF,
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