Arizer Solo

JSteez4205

aka Gordon NugzB
are there any pics of a solo dismantled? im thinking new paint job.
IMG_0019.jpg

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I imagine since you can remove the battery core and heater that you could essentially remove the outer shell completely which would enable you to paint & modify to your tastes... I'd check to make sure your paint is temperature safe if I were you...maybe that's not even a thing, I don't know much about paint. :shrug:
 
JSteez4205,

Red Indy

Low carbon PSYCHONAUT
are there any pics of a solo dismantled? im thinking new paint job.

Great idea!!
It unscrews quite easily at the bottom (4 tiny screws) and the top cover of the heating element can be screwed off as well.
Than you can take off the outer casing from the part where the battery houses and the circuitboard sits.
When you take it apart you will see that the battery has most of the weight, so the casing, after taking out the electronic part, can be easily (spray)painted.
 
Red Indy,

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
That's the exact opposite of what actually has been happening. The battery indicator drops super fast on the M1 serials...like to 5 after one sesh, but on the M107 you could do a full sesh and the battery either wouldnt drop at all, or just 1 light.

You sure you compared the 2 from full charge?



I mean the meter drops off too early. It'll show the battery at Level 1 or below, and still have plenty of battery left. It's well known that the M1 models have less accurate battery indicators than the M107.


Exactly.


More than sure, I always charge fully...

What you are saying is not occurring. :) M1A4xxxxxx
 

poonman

Well-Known Member
That's why Centizen's are more...bettery batteries and labour shipping included. Centi is DA MAN!

Ya the Zenman ,
What was his fee again ?
if you know ....

I think he's been busy playing with the Pax or inh004 ....
 
poonman,

timmahsan

treEnt
I just wanted to let you all know that I received the $40 bubbler from pipesdaddy and the PHVES GonG adapter, and it hits well! Does anyone have any temperature recommendations? I tried starting at a 3, and didn't get much visible vapor. I tried a fresh bowl at a 6 and 7 and whoa--that was a lot of vapor!

I like my short turbo's for just myself. quick bowls and nice even brown ABV. I usually do two. It is very ritual-like for me. My wife is pregnant and is very sensitive to smells, so I am stuck outside medicating. :(

modnote: sorry, tried to merge my back to back post, couldn't delete the second one!
 

chromehorse

New Member
I just got my Arizer and it seems like the battery is underwhelming. I've been vaping at about temp 4 with a very loose grind and domed screen. The LED's flash once at 7 and then it shows a lower number which I assume indicates charge. When the battery is supposedly empty, it is not heating at all and has a solid red charge button.

I just started the last stem with a battery charge of 6. I put the setting up to 7. It hovered heat wise around 7 but would drop quickly to 2-3 and heat back up after I started inhaling. Not sure how fast I'm supposed to draw, but I've been drawing very hard. When I first got it a couple days ago, I was drawing really slow, about as fast as you would a magic flight. Anyway, that last 12 minute session which was maybe 6 minutes at 7 and 6 minutes at 2-3~ dropped the battery from 6 to 2. Are my batteries not matching expectations? Or am I drawing too fast and hurting the battery that way by forcing more current to heat the air? I put the battery on the charger about 5 minutes ago and it's already up to # 4 so that's another interesting point. Is the battery "memory" weak and needs to be completely depleted and charged for a few hours? For anyone curious, the model number begins with M1A4.

Update: I just ran through a session on the arizer. Toasted to light brown when finished. Started at battery 7 and now at 5.
 
chromehorse,

Red Indy

Low carbon PSYCHONAUT
I agree, I never once combusted with my Solo.
Well, no total combustion, not white burned ash, I agree, but when I take it to #7 the content of my stem surely looks black on the surface and has a very burned smell to it.
Over #4 I notice that the color changes the hotter it gets, also there will be more vapor but the taste will be less, as is the smell.
In my new M1A3 I even noticed that it got partialy darker on #4, not every time but it happened and I could taste it as well.
 
Red Indy,

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
Well, no total combustion, not white burned ash, I agree, but when I take it to #7 the content of my stem surely looks black on the surface and has a very burned smell to it.
Over #4 I notice that the color changes the hotter it gets, also there will be more vapor but the taste will be less, as is the smell.
In my new M1A3 I even noticed that it got partialy darker on #4, not every time but it happened and I could taste it as well.

You smell benzene that starts building at 400C and above...and the blackness is the chlorophyll.

I want to remind you that if you really combust then the chamber+stem would smell like s**t, forcing you to wash it ASAP.
 

Red Indy

Low carbon PSYCHONAUT
You smell benzene that starts building at 400C and above...and the blackness is the chlorophyll.

I want to remind you that if you really combust then the chamber+stem would smell like s**t, forcing you to wash it ASAP.
Hmmm...you might be right there but I really have no idea what benzene would smell like, it smells burned to me.
 
Red Indy,

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
Hmmm...you might be right there but I really have no idea what benzene would smell like, it smells burned to me.

Well, try burning the herb then smell it, also put a LED flashlight on your "black ABV" and notice how green-brown it is.

Benzene is formed during the heating process....
 
m0sh,
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