Arizer Solo

[FlowersInTheAttic]

The guy who did the complete teardown in this thread has pictures showing some sort of a connector port on the internals. Not sure what it is exactly, but it may be worth checking out those posts

I took a look at the teardown post (page 93, for those interested), but I couldn't identify a PROM. Everything I saw was soldered in, which makes swapping one out much trickier. There's also a possibility that some other sort of alteration (say, swapping out a resistor for one of a different value) might also achieve a similar effect. But that's getting way out of my area of expertise.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

Has anyone been talking about how the software on the M105 might be altered to match the newer M107s or even the old ceramics? ... I'd like to see my current 7 down around 5, maybe even 4. I don't care if it reduces battery life. ... I assume the software is on a PROM (programmable read-only memory). Does anyone know if it's soldered in place? Sometimes they're in a socket (which is soldered in) ...

i think the processor chip id is scratched off. code would be in eePROM if it is anything like my rig. it may be possible to attach a chip-clip to connect the chip to a USB programmer -- if, if, if -- but you'd have to reverse engineer the code to see where the constants are stored and what values are used.

could be done, but not at all trivial, not for the faint of heart

 

[FlowersInTheAttic]

i think the processor chip id is scratched off. code would be in eePROM if it is anything like my rig. it may be possible to attach a chip-clip to connect the chip to a USB programmer -- if, if, if -- but you'd have to reverse engineer the code to see where the constants are stored and what values are used.

could be done, but not at all trivial, not for the faint of heart

Alas, I am both trivial and faint of heart. I don't think I would even consider this without Arizer's blessing and/or assistance. My hope was that Arizer would supply the software if not the actual PROM itself. I'd spend some money for that.

Obviously this problem does not rise to the level of a warranty replacement. Since the M105 would seem to be alone in having this problem of being a little too cool, though, I'd hoped Arizer might be willing to consider how they could help us make a small software upgrade.

 

[dorkus_molorkus]

in his teardown page 93 Vaplexus says this just above the 9th pic:
''Note the 5 pin connector pads at the top left. interesting. a programmer or diagnostic interface?''

there are 5 little holes that look like something might plug into them in the top left of pic number 9, would they be where someone could plug in and tinker with the software?

 

[Hippie Dickie]

i apologize, i didn't phrase that right ...

i think they have the means to upgrade the software -- probably like dorkus suggests -- also something that nags at me in my design (since my code is never done, there's always one more bug to fix) -- but they probably consider the software to be secret sauce.

 

[FlowersInTheAttic]

i apologize, i didn't phrase that right ...

i think they have the means to upgrade the software -- probably like dorkus suggests -- also something that nags at me in my design (since my code is never done, there's always one more bug to fix) -- but they probably consider the software to be secret sauce.

Fair enough, and that was a concern of mine as well. I'd be willing to pay a fee to cover their costs if they hired a kid to upgrade M105s that came in. That way, the sauce stays a secret, and they're not out any money.

My M105 is not defective. I don't think they should have to pay to make it right. It's already right. But it does reflect a design decision they have since re-thought. I'd like a chance to get in on that re-thinking if it weren't too much money for me or hassle for them.

 

[Robob]

Hey guys I received a m105 today. Charged it until light was green, got about 3 hrs or so of awesome clouds @ lvl 3.
The problem is the charge light turned red so I plug it in and now 4 hours later light is still red and I believe it's supposed to be green and blinking like it was when I first got it this morn.
The unit still turns on, beeps and let's me select a heat level but since the batt is dead it won't heat and the charge light goes red.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appriciated, I would rather take this one apart and order a new m107 over dealing with a RMA.

Ty

 

[cycleb]

Hey guys I received a m105 today. Charged it until light was green, got about 3 hrs or so of awesome clouds @ lvl 3.
The problem is the charge light turned red so I plug it in and now 4 hours later light is still red and I believe it's supposed to be green and blinking like it was when I first got it this morn.
The unit still turns on, beeps and let's me select a heat level but since the batt is dead it won't heat and the charge light goes red.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appriciated, I would rather take this one apart and order a new m107 over dealing with a RMA.

Ty

It should be blinking green while charging, and go to solid green when fully charged. If it was red, it wasn't getting charged. Check that everything is snugly plugged in, and the light should begin blinking green.

 

[Xchadb]

Hey guys I received a m105 today. Charged it until light was green, got about 3 hrs or so of awesome clouds @ lvl 3.
The problem is the charge light turned red so I plug it in and now 4 hours later light is still red and I believe it's supposed to be green and blinking like it was when I first got it this morn.
The unit still turns on, beeps and let's me select a heat level but since the batt is dead it won't heat and the charge light goes red.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appriciated, I would rather take this one apart and order a new m107 over dealing with a RMA.

Ty

congrats 105+lvl 3= perfect sorry to hear about the charging issues, make sure to check all connections and the outlet itself even, but when you plug it in, regardless if its on or off, should emit a long beep (if sound is on) and go into charging mode and will automatically shut off the heating element.

 

[Robob]

Everything is snug, tried un-plugging it etc, now that the battery is completely dead all i get is the red charge light(not blinking) when its plugged in and the blue idle light, buttons etc do nothing.

Seeing as I wanted overnight and sat delivery I chose amazon, poor choice for this kind of product.
I just ordered one from vapor nation and used their promo code here to pay for the shipping, so hoping to tear this old one apart, put new battery in it and see what happens.
It says they are M107's at vapor nation, *fingers crossed*

 

[Xchadb]

damn! that sucks man wish you would of read an old post when i got mine, from amazon from NW Healthtek and i got it overnighted to my house for around 180. had no problems so far, no funky smells or tastes either

 

[Robob]

funny u say that chad, that is the same place mine shipped from. It arrived with a battery level of 4 or 5 so i charged it for a few hours, green light blinking, went solid green and all was good. Used it til the charge light started to blink, plug it in and get solid red light etc...
Was awesome the one time anyway! haha

Edit: I do still get the beep as well, and if i time it right I still can enable/disable the beep. Which makes me think the battery is just faulty or a cell is dead from sitting on the shelf awhile, I'm trying to find the link a hundred or so pages back that had them in it lol

 

[Xchadb]

Lmao, wtf? damn sorry but thats pretty crazy....what if you get your new one and turns out to just be a bunk charger? FUGG YEA two solos! One for the kitchen and one for the bedroom!

 

[Robob]

I suppose the charger could be bunk, the light is on and my meter says its giving 12.01v @ 1000mA it matches the sticker on the plug and i assume they gave me the correct one

 

[Xchadb]

ya, charger is great, well after a battery swap give it another go, hopefully its that and not some bigger issue.

 

[hogleg]

the polarity may be wrong my solo did this when I made my car charger backwards

 

[Xchadb]

uhm, i dont think you can reverse the polarity on a wall outlet.... Robob is using a wall charger right?

 

[Robob]

yeah I dont have a car charger

 

[Sinclue]

uhm, i dont think you can reverse the polarity on a wall outlet.... Robob is using a wall charger right?

Having worked 25 years as a Handyman you'd be amazed at how many homes/receptacles are wired incorrectly, with polarity reversed...even brand new homes.

 

[Robob]

Thanks to page 93 (http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=5564&p=93) also just got
Li-Ion 18650 7.4V Tenergy 2200mAh Rechargeable Battery module with PCB (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Y2LJW0/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details)

2x solos soon, one for car and one for the can!

 

[Robob]

sin, I've also tried many plugs at 2 different houses, and the computer UPS which I know gives the right polarity etc

 

[Sinclue]

sin, I've also tried many plugs at 2 different houses, and the computer UPS which I know gives the right polarity etc

Sounds like you've exhausted all possibilities save contacting Arizer directly. Have a friend who purchased his off Amazon and got it replaced by Arizer for a "smell" issue. You problem sounds way more definitive than that.

Not knocking having two Solos though. Got an old ceramic and its SS replacement (chipping issue). Greatly prefer the ceramic, but no problems with the SS either.

 

[Robob]

Yeah I am not opposed to having two solo's, this one happens to be SS and I didn't notice a funny taste at all. But I did pre-heat the unit a few times before using, so the piece would fit into the top of the unit.

 

[hogleg]

oops

 

[jimmylegs]

My buddy recently bought a ss 105 after trying my ceramic 102 (which rocks). He is a medical user with chronic pain and likes the full range of temps to give him some relief. The problem is that his 105 doesn't get nearly as hot as my 102 so he is kinda disappointed with his unit. We can take his abv after the 105 won't extract anymore vapor and get another good cycle of vapor with mine. I remember reading the temp range for the solo and his isn't even close (measured with a laser thermometer). To me this is a warranty issue because the unit doesn't hit the temps they advertise. Any thoughts before I pursue this. Thanks.