The shortest GonG I have is the one from PV.
Yes, IMO, the Air stems are worth trying. They make a useful 'poor man's GonG' and are also good for general use I think. For ten bucks you can find out?
Battery replacement is easy, many of us have done it, but I'd stick with the factory battery if you don't know what you're doing. Batteries from EBay have risks. Pack from CentiZen are a solid call IMO, the man knows his stuff.
Depends on what you want. Yes, for the time being they will easily outperform a dead battery? Happy customers are to be expected. However, consider, if those cells made a superior battery don't you think Arizer would be using them? They 'did everything else right', didn't they? They take a long view on such things, that battery has to last in a tough job.
Some batteries work great alone, but not in matched sets like in a battery pack. As long as they're matched they work like a fine team of horses and the wagon goes straight and fast. But, when one gets weaker than the other, the stronger one 'beats him up all the more'. The good cell hammers the weak one into an early grave. The pack must stay balanced though it's life. Building packs from random (unsorted) cells is sure to build a hot but short lived pack, even if the 'kitchen table makers' used cells with welded tabs like the pros do (soldering to the cell directly is 'playing dice with the devil', no legit maker does that).
There's a big clue that laptops and Electric Cars use the same class of 'low power' cells as well, they too are wise. Go to a 'battery house' and check what cells they sell with tabs (to make packs from), you won't find such 'better' cells.
IMO Arizer did it right. They used the 'state of the art' cells, a solid protection PCB and a (rare) thermal protection unit:
That's the protection PCB between the cells and the thermal protector (the white thing at the top), they didn't include that thermal protection (not normally there.....) to run the cost up, they saw a real need for it? Notice that when I rebuilt the pack above I used appropriate cells with welded tabs (the solder connections are isolated from the body of the cell) of the type intended to build packs, not the highest capacity in the book.
Your call, but my advice is above. Unless you know a LOT about this, and are using selected cells with welded tabs designed for the duty and are including the thermal protection Arizer thinks is important (like I did....) I'd stick with the factory (or Centizen's) offering. I would not be trusting some random guy on EBay who's not even using his real name........
OF
Unfortunately, as I found out when buying my replacement battery, @CentiZen is no longer active on FC or selling battery packs. I sense a business niche reopening!
I would not order from a vendor that supplied the battery fully discharged. Dos not inspire confidence.
I would not order from a vendor that supplied the battery fully discharged. Dos not inspire confidence.
Hence why I mentioned it. Nonetheless, it brought my unit back to life beautifully.
@abby I did not respond properly.
The Solo is an amazing vape.
I replied to whether you needed a mighty and from what I've read the Boundless is not a mighty, but it is less than 1/2 the price and folks are happy. my Boundless CFV will be in my hands tomorrow.
I want to buy a power adapter that has adjustable amperage and voltage so that I can use just one adapter to charge or 'pass through power' the solo from same power adapter. My arizer solo is an M1B serial number and those didn't have the feature to be used while its being charged.
If your Solo is old enough to be 'true PA' you don't need adjustable current (but you do need 2.5 Amps capability in PA mode, not the one Amp needed to charge). You need to lower the 12 Volts to something in the 7 to 9 Volt range.
Before they went out of style, Pipes was selling a well received "all in one" charger along the lines of the versions I cobbled up. You might PM him and see if he has stock?
FWIW, this is what an early prototype looked like:
It's a simple regulator (voltage reducer) to drop 12 Volts to 8 or so, but it needs a bigger 12 Volt supply to drive it so it can deliver the required 2.5 Amps for heating.
OF
Ha Ha im sure you don't need the encouragement from us.
Alright this other battery sounds fishy enough, I'll pick up an official one. Basically, my airzer solo refurbishment bill was going too far up (new battery, new glass, new charger, new power adapter), so I just bought a new arizer air instead, but all that made me realize is that I want to refurbish my solo and start using it. I might sell the arizer air and get a boundless or a enano or something.
Anyways. Does anyone have experience with 3rd party power adapters and 3rd party chargers for the arizer solo? I want to buy a power adapter that has adjustable amperage and voltage so that I can use just one adapter to charge or 'pass through power' the solo from same power adapter. My arizer solo is an M1B serial number and those didn't have the feature to be used while its being charged.
I'd love to hear a comparison with a solo once it gets here.
Mod note: posts merged.
Chill out!
I was really just hoping for a general purpose power adapter ordered out of china. Those exist right? With knobs and meters and a little led display that tell you what voltage/amperage you're outputting the current at..If your Solo is old enough to be 'true PA' you don't need adjustable current (but you do need 2.5 Amps capability in PA mode, not the one Amp needed to charge). You need to lower the 12 Volts to something in the 7 to 9 Volt range.
Before they went out of style, Pipes was selling a well received "all in one" charger along the lines of the versions I cobbled up. You might PM him and see if he has stock?
FWIW, this is what an early prototype looked like:
It's a simple regulator (voltage reducer) to drop 12 Volts to 8 or so, but it needs a bigger 12 Volt supply to drive it so it can deliver the required 2.5 Amps for heating.
OF
I was really just hoping for a general purpose power adapter ordered out of china. Those exist right? With knobs and meters and a little led display that tell you what voltage/amperage you're outputting the current at..
Also, I never fill the solo's bowl to the full, its pretty much 100% convection that way imo.
I have a FRENCH Wife!I'll try, but I always use my Solo in a way that mimics convection. I heat my Solo to # 7. While heating Solo I fill the stem. Once the Solo is at top temp I insert my stem, start drawing. I remove the stem while not drawing.
I know Solo is Conduction, this gets the closest to convection.
i know our resident power maven , @OF will state that the Solo is 100 conduction.
@Episode666 I am not sure that running the battery"dry" is great for the battery. @OF will hopefully chime in on that
She does appear CIVILIZED!
I fill my solo stems bowls to the full. I chop the buds first and then pack a full bowl, lightly tapped down and that's how I like it. I couldnt imagine only filling up the bowl a bit personally.
The SOLO should be given to all UNIVERSITY students.
Lets not forget the parents trying to make the tuition costs. Parents of college kids need to be CIVILIZED (and a bit chilled) too.
And they need to remember it's those kids who will pick a 'retirement home' for them and divide up their goods........
OF
I already spent my kids inheritance years ago.
@OF may we need to include the parents?And they need to remember it's those kids who will pick a 'retirement home' for them and divide up their goods........
OF