Arizer Solo II

tom32

Active Member
Hello. Can anybody recommend dosing capsules?

Does anybody have a picture of the air path In a teardown?
 
tom32,

Phajik

Well-Known Member
Hey team, can you guys direct me to a stem that I can put a screen into with NO GLASS SCREEN. I fucking hate the glass screen. This thing is my daily driver and I am happy with it but I modified it by smashing out the glass screen with the tip of a nail.
 
Phajik,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Hey team, can you guys direct me to a stem that I can put a screen into with NO GLASS SCREEN. I fucking hate the glass screen. This thing is my daily driver and I am happy with it but I modified it by smashing out the glass screen with the tip of a nail.
How about one of Ed's excellent wood stems. They have SS bowls with SS screens already installed.....glass free!

OF
 

ray_

Active Member
I just joind FC yesterday. I've been using a Solo 2 for a few years. I like the glass vapor path, the size of the bowl is just right for me and it is incredibly easy to keep clean. I recently purchased a dimpled stem from Sneaky Pete and that has made a huge dfference in the coolness of the vapor. Very nice. Glad to have joined and hope to pick up some good tips here.
 

zzrvr

Well-Known Member
I found them to draw about the same.
Thanks for the reply, I guess I’m spoiled as my Craft has such a easy draw. I pulled my old solo out and tried it out the other day and couldn’t believe had hard you had to puff to get anything out of it.. Just wondered if the 2 was any better....
 

His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
Thanks for the reply, I guess I’m spoiled as my Craft has such a easy draw. I pulled my old solo out and tried it out the other day and couldn’t believe had hard you had to puff to get anything out of it.. Just wondered if the 2 was any better....
I definitely find the Solo and Solo II to have more draw restriction than many of my vapes. BUT I don't find the draw restriction to be bad and they produce some seriously tasty and thick vapor.

I don't pack the stem very tight, I stopped using a screen in the stem awhile back and I keep the holes clean/clear.

When I fill the stem I put the bowl end in the herb and inhale from the other end to fill it. I find that filling the stem by inhaling and not packing eliminates packing too much and increasing draw restriction.
 
Just got my first vaporizer in 8+ years and went with the Solo II off many many recommendations across the interwebs. I prefer vaping at safe temperatures (180°-195° C) and am having a lot of trouble getting the Solo II to milk. I have tried the standard glass stems, an Ed's TNT wood stem, and a Sneaky Pete's High-Efficiency GonG and every time I am left with wispy hits for the length of the session. At the end, my herb is evenly and well extracted, but I can't seem to get it to milk like I've seen others do in videos (especially with the GonG through glass). I have tried various grinding and packing methods but can't seem to get it right. Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 

wildwilliewanker

Active Member
Just got my first vaporizer in 8+ years and went with the Solo II off many many recommendations across the interwebs. I prefer vaping at safe temperatures (180°-195° C) and am having a lot of trouble getting the Solo II to milk. I have tried the standard glass stems, an Ed's TNT wood stem, and a Sneaky Pete's High-Efficiency GonG and every time I am left with wispy hits for the length of the session. At the end, my herb is evenly and well extracted, but I can't seem to get it to milk like I've seen others do in videos (especially with the GonG through glass). I have tried various grinding and packing methods but can't seem to get it right. Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
When I really milk my Solo II on a bubbler it's at max temp 428F/220C. I would expect good flavor at 383F/195C and below, but not the largest clouds.

Aside from temperature, your herb can always affect cloud production. I have some stuff that just isn't very potent and doesn't milk up any vaporizer, except my Ditanium, and not for very long.
 

ray_

Active Member
I doubt the designers of the Solo had 'milking' as a design goal. Try using it as you have been and if you are getting really high who cares if you can do a Youttube video? But to actually answer your question, 195 C is on the low side, so you could bump that a little. When it heats up and says it's ready it's really not. Let it sit for a few minutes beyond that. I like to wait until the glass just outside the Solo is wam. Take a long, slow draw. That will get you close to a dense, robust vapor.
 
When I really milk my Solo II on a bubbler it's at max temp 428F/220C. I would expect good flavor at 383F/195C and below, but not the largest clouds.

Aside from temperature, your herb can always affect cloud production. I have some stuff that just isn't very potent and doesn't milk up any vaporizer, except my Ditanium, and not for very long.
Thanks for the input. I do have quality medical herb from my local dispensary, and I have seen some insane glass milk white at 200C. Is there really that big a difference in those 5 degrees in terms of vapor density? I feel like I'm just not packing/drawing it right, but I also feel like I have tried every possible combination and it shouldn't be this hard from what I've heard.

I doubt the designers of the Solo had 'milking' as a design goal. Try using it as you have been and if you are getting really high who cares if you can do a Youttube video? But to actually answer your question, 195 C is on the low side, so you could bump that a little. When it heats up and says it's ready it's really not. Let it sit for a few minutes beyond that. I like to wait until the glass just outside the Solo is wam. Take a long, slow draw. That will get you close to a dense, robust vapor.
Thank you, yes I apologize if I came off as a teenage tiktok blogger. I don't have any interest in creating my own videos and understand that effective medication is the primary goal. However, I am trying to determine if my unit may be defective, or if I am engaging in some user error. Since my results do not seem to match the results others on this thread and elsewhere have achieved, I am hoping someone with more knowledge and experience might be able to shed some light on best technique for what I am being told is low-temp vaping? I always considered low temps anything under 180C but maybe times have changed.
 

ray_

Active Member
Thank you, yes I apologize if I came off as a teenage tiktok blogger. I don't have any interest in creating my own videos and understand that effective medication is the primary goal. However, I am trying to determine if my unit may be defective, or if I am engaging in some user error. Since my results do not seem to match the results others on this thread and elsewhere have achieved, I am hoping someone with more knowledge and experience might be able to shed some light on best technique for what I am being told is low-temp vaping? I always considered low temps anything under 180C but maybe times have changed.
How are your results? Are you getting good and high? The Solo, while being a great vape, is not the best for milking a bong. Try what I suggested and see what happens.
 
ray_,
How are your results? Are you getting good and high? The Solo, while being a great vape, is not the best for milking a bong. Try what I suggested and see what happens.
Gonna try bumping it up to 200C. Best results seem to be using the "straw" method to hoover up the herb and then just lightly tamp to create some space between the herb and the heater plate. I let the device heat up, insert the stem, then leave it in for 30 second to 1 minute before hitting. I usually do this at 180 or 185 and then once I start losing flavor I increase to 195. I will rarely see visible vapor at 180-185 and will start getting whispy hits 1-2 draws into 195. I usually keep getting small whisps through the full 15 minute session and by the end am well medicated and the herb seems well extracted. Just wish there was a way to get good consistent large hits so that I can get a full extraction faster and the hits can pack more punch. Maybe you are right, that in order to achieve that with the Solo II I will need to increase my temp above the safe level of 195C and experiment in the 210-220C range, especially through glass.
 

His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
@Shutd0wnK1ng - I think you're heading in the right direction by increasing the temp. I use the Solo's through a D020-D bubbler and the first few hits are seriously cloudy/milky.

The straw method you mentioned is how I do it as well. I also don't use a screen in the bowl anymore. The Solos use a combination of convection and conduction (Hybrid production-Let the debates begin!) so the Solos will definitely benefit from a minute or so of heat soaking.

Try this...
- Make sure the stem is clean around bowl and especially the 4 holes in the bowl.
- Fill using straw method.
- Place stem in Solo II.
- Set temp to 200C.
- When temp is reached wait 1 to 1.5 minutes before drawing (First time trying this sequence wait 1.5 minutes and if this works for you play around with the wait time to try going lower in subsequent sessions.
- Take your first hit. Should be so cloudy you think it's going to rain.
- When the clouds start to get whispy - increase temp to 205C to get more vapor.
- When 205C stops producing finish off the stem at max temp.

I can see that you prefer lower temps so once you dial it in with the above you should be able to find some lower temps that you're satisfied with. The biggest issue I see in your sequence is heating the Solo and then putting in the stem. The stem will benefit from a heat soak by being in the Solo as it heats up.

Good Luck! Let us know how it goes...
 
@Shutd0wnK1ng - I think you're heading in the right direction by increasing the temp. I use the Solo's through a D020-D bubbler and the first few hits are seriously cloudy/milky.

The straw method you mentioned is how I do it as well. I also don't use a screen in the bowl anymore. The Solos use a combination of convection and conduction (Hybrid production-Let the debates begin!) so the Solos will definitely benefit from a minute or so of heat soaking.

Try this...
- Make sure the stem is clean around bowl and especially the 4 holes in the bowl.
- Fill using straw method.
- Place stem in Solo II.
- Set temp to 200C.
- When temp is reached wait 1 to 1.5 minutes before drawing (First time trying this sequence wait 1.5 minutes and if this works for you play around with the wait time to try going lower in subsequent sessions.
- Take your first hit. Should be so cloudy you think it's going to rain.
- When the clouds start to get whispy - increase temp to 205C to get more vapor.
- When 205C stops producing finish off the stem at max temp.

I can see that you prefer lower temps so once you dial it in with the above you should be able to find some lower temps that you're satisfied with. The biggest issue I see in your sequence is heating the Solo and then putting in the stem. The stem will benefit from a heat soak by being in the Solo as it heats up.

Good Luck! Let us know how it goes...
Thank you, sir! I thought I had read that inserting the stem when the unit is still cool can stretch the ring out, but I will try your method and see how I do. I agree that starting at higher temps may be the best solution to get the draw pattern right and then I can dial in lower temps that suit my needs. My one last question is the draw technique. I think I know I should be using long steady draws, but the question is how hard should I be pulling? I imagine there is a balance between pulling slow enough to let the heat mingle with the herb, while pulling hard enough to get enough air flow. Thoughts?
 
DingoGlittering,

His_Highness

In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
Thank you, sir! I thought I had read that inserting the stem when the unit is still cool can stretch the ring out, but I will try your method and see how I do. I agree that starting at higher temps may be the best solution to get the draw pattern right and then I can dial in lower temps that suit my needs. My one last question is the draw technique. I think I know I should be using long steady draws, but the question is how hard should I be pulling? I imagine there is a balance between pulling slow enough to let the heat mingle with the herb, while pulling hard enough to get enough air flow. Thoughts?

Many of the folks who have had Solos for awhile actually prefer a little play in the bowl to improve air-flow and some prefer it so we can rocker the stem a little for even more air-flow.

When I'm using a bubbler I use a steady mid-level draw speed. It's around 3/4 of normal breathing. One of the benefits of a bubbler is being able to see the cloud/vapor forming so your draw can be modified during the draw. Also the bubbler helps add strength to the draw for me.

When I'm not using a bubbler I also use a mid-level draw but I allow a tiny bit of air to seep in through the corner of my mouth so I'm not fighting with any of the Solo draw restriction.

All of this is subjective though. If my original suggestions work for you I think you'll quickly find your happy spots because you'll have solved the cloud equation and will actually want to dial it back a bit. Once those clouds start rolling in your draw speed and strength of pull will naturally adjust.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Just got my first vaporizer in 8+ years and went with the Solo II off many many recommendations across the interwebs. I prefer vaping at safe temperatures (180°-195° C) and am having a lot of trouble getting the Solo II to milk.
Some excellent suggestions have been given. I agree, "Big Clouds" was not a design goal but rather a flexible and useful vape that is frugal with herb. If you wanted to make one for milking, you'd use a larger load and as suggested above maximum temperatures in an effort to increase vapor production.

One important point hasn't been made however, if you want maximum density of vapor ('milking') draw very slowly. This is a conduction based vape. Vapor is produced by heat conducted into the load through the walls from the cup, further slowed by the glass of the stem. Vapor can only be made so fast since this requires time lest the temperature in the load drops. Pulling harder, in an effort to increase production, will not do so since this conduction rate has set the maximum possible transfer of heat. Instead the increased air flow will need more of the heat to heat the additional incoming air up to vaping temperature. effectively 'robbing' heat from the load that would otherwise make more vapor (cooling it down too far).

Watch those videos again, notice that the show offs are filling their WTs very slowly?

In a larger sense, as one of the responders pointed out full extraction of the load is what you probably want anyway. Hitting it harder gives you bigger volumes of less dense vapor.

Regards to all.

OF
 
Some excellent suggestions have been given. I agree, "Big Clouds" was not a design goal but rather a flexible and useful vape that is frugal with herb. If you wanted to make one for milking, you'd use a larger load and as suggested above maximum temperatures in an effort to increase vapor production.

One important point hasn't been made however, if you want maximum density of vapor ('milking') draw very slowly. This is a conduction based vape. Vapor is produced by heat conducted into the load through the walls from the cup, further slowed by the glass of the stem. Vapor can only be made so fast since this requires time lest the temperature in the load drops. Pulling harder, in an effort to increase production, will not do so since this conduction rate has set the maximum possible transfer of heat. Instead the increased air flow will need more of the heat to heat the additional incoming air up to vaping temperature. effectively 'robbing' heat from the load that would otherwise make more vapor (cooling it down too far).

Watch those videos again, notice that the show offs are filling their WTs very slowly?

In a larger sense, as one of the responders pointed out full extraction of the load is what you probably want anyway. Hitting it harder gives you bigger volumes of less dense vapor.

Regards to all.

OF
Thanks, OF!

Super helpful information, exactly what I needed to know re: draw speed/technique. I know on the ditanium the harder you pull the harder it will hit, but it didn't seem like that was the case with the Solo II. Feels good to get some confirmation and additional insight. Really appreciate it, brother!

Best,

SK
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks, OF!

Super helpful information, exactly what I needed to know re: draw speed/technique. I know on the ditanium the harder you pull the harder it will hit, but it didn't seem like that was the case with the Solo II. Feels good to get some confirmation and additional insight. Really appreciate it, brother!

Best,

SK
Yer welcome, glad to help when I can.

Unfortunately, combustion skills can lead us astray here. With combustion, drawing in lots of air feeds the fire, making more heat. The opposite of what we get with conduction vapes. True convection vapes, like say VG, respond as we expect. Hit them harder and the heat goes up, making more vapor faster, and leading to combustion if you're not careful.

Solo II is an outstanding vape with many useful techniques available. Just not a natural at milking. I suggest you enjoy it as it comes as so many of us do.

Best wishes,

OF
 
Yer welcome, glad to help when I can.

Unfortunately, combustion skills can lead us astray here. With combustion, drawing in lots of air feeds the fire, making more heat. The opposite of what we get with conduction vapes. True convection vapes, like say VG, respond as we expect. Hit them harder and the heat goes up, making more vapor faster, and leading to combustion if you're not careful.

Solo II is an outstanding vape with many useful techniques available. Just not a natural at milking. I suggest you enjoy it as it comes as so many of us do.

Best wishes,

OF
Thanks, OF!

As with anything in life, having realistic expectations from the onset seems to be the best way to ensure a positive experience.

Since discovering FC, I have been following the Solo II, Ditanium, and now HydroBrick threads as those are the three vapes I have recently acquired, and I seem to have seen you quite a bit. Thanks for all you're help past, present, and future I'm sure.

SK
 

otroo

Well-Known Member
My Solo 2 came today and I am very happy with it it hits smoother then my Silver Surfer that I have been using for year running through water. I was going to pick this unit up a couple of years ago but picked up a Davinci IQ instead and I wish I would of gotten this unit instead back then.
 
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