smalltiredlemur
New Member
Great tips, I'll try them out--thank you!
Arizer Solo II
- Thread starter bluenavey00
- Start date
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- arizer error 7 fix solo ii
Great tips, I'll try them out--thank you!
How much does the Solo 2 smell when not in use?
If I use it, shut it down and put it in a room will the whole room smell / reek?
@Goldenbud
@MasterChief
Can I finish a bowl within 5 minutes or less without a bubbler/glass?
If I use it, shut it down and put it in a room will the whole room smell / reek?
@Goldenbud
@MasterChief
Can I finish a bowl within 5 minutes or less without a bubbler/glass?
Tranquility
Well-Known Member
I can't smell mine at all. (Then again, I'm old and need hot sauce to taste food.) Most of the smell will be in the stem and you can remove that and wash it. The body might have some smell in the stem chamber, but not as much as with most other vapes. Anything on the outside from being around vapor is going to be the same with any vape.
I don't pack a full stem and I usually finish around the time the Solo II shuts down. COULD I finish a stem in 5 minutes? Probably not. Water or no, you'd be huffing every breath and hoping the Solo kept up. I don't think the optimal slow draw to get big vapor is going to let you fully toast a whole load in 5 minutes. The limit is not just your throat (which is why you suggest a tool), but the tech. At least for me.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
it has no smell when it's idling. there's a small lid for closing the chamber, nothing leaks.
Yes it is possible to finish a small bowl like half or even less capacity (use a screen, or a POTV One's capsules) within 5 minutes, Use a Bent stem! it should cold the vapor.
OF
Well-Known Member
As has been said, the unit itself has little smell when cold (the contamination isn't there), it's the stems that smell. If you pull it out and put it in a 'travel tube' (from our friends at Planet Vape for a dollar or so) or use HEAT PROOF caps (or wait until it's cold) like Arizer sells for the task that should 'bottle up' the smell well enough for most cases. There are also 'smell proof cases' made which tend to do what they claim if you put the unit inside.
No, you cannot vape a normal load in five minutes no matter how hard you try. Being as it's a conduction vape you must take into account the time needed for the heat to move in, commonly called 'heat soaks'. This means it takes say two minutes to get to solid vapor from cold then say 20 seconds 'heat soak' between hits. So you can exhaust a load that size (9 normal hits) in five minutes. Get some domed screens and reduce the load size if you need to fit in five minutes. But you have to put it in to get it out, no magic. So you'll be looking at a total load with not much THC due to it's low volume. You get to decide if that's enough for you.
A bubbler isn't going to change that.
Vapes like VG, where you can jam more heat in on demand, are probably a better call if you're in a rush.
It's really a session vape at heart/design. Which is why the largish stems and 12 minute session times. It's also good to remember Solo/Air/ArGp has earned it's huge following, most of us find it a top flight bit of gear. IMO it's on the list of 'vapes everyone should have'.
Regards to all.
OF
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
OF
Well-Known Member
Yep, I'm sure. For convection to work the air has to be heated much hotter than 'magic temperature' before going in so it can make vapor (cooling doing so) and still be above 400F before leaving. Not possible here since only a tiny fraction of the air actually touches hot metal (which is 'only' 400F or so). Try running it with the stem inserted just to the seal (all convection, 'no' conduction) and compare it to a cold stem inserted into the cup and left say two minutes (all conduction, no convection). Which is more like Solo in normal operation?
A convection vape doesn't need heat soaks to recover between hits. In fact, just the opposite. It does, however, need a very much hotter heat source (something like 1200F in the case of TVs) so the average air temperature is well above 400F (which is not possible if the cup itself (more importantly the walls of the four ports, the part air touches) is 'only' 400F to start with.
Heat soak is a conduction effect. Letting convection vapes sit idle makes production go down, not up. Besides, convection is a power hog......very short battery life not like we enjoy with Solo/Air/ArGo. Heat is heat in the end, but if we're going to put a name on it, Thermodynamics says it's conduction, FWIW. For some reason folks believe convection is superior and, or course, therefore want it. There's a thread somewhere on this topic, the belief it's convection 'dies hard' for sure.
Regards to all.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Yup, as I understand Science. And excellent examples of what good work can be done with the technology.
Convection is really a problem in a portable, it eats up precious battery life. ThermoVape, using the best 18650s and very very serious insulation (Zirconia) not found on other vapes was barely able to manage 30 minutes run time if you never let it cool off. Likewise ESV, another convection vape, is extremely hard on very a very special battery pack. GH I understand also has this Achilles heel, despite the earlier claims otherwise?
VG excels here since burning Butane gives huge energy potential in a small package.
IMO F2/EDGE is the result of development/improvement on what works well already. Conduction gets the job done, and often done very well.
You're welcome, always happy to help out when I can.
Regards to all.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Could well be, I don't know that vape personally.
It's worth noting that Solo (both I and II) has a real battery (a single cell is not a battery, a battery is two or more working together like a Battery of Artillery). Two cells in series to that 3400 mAh is delivered at 7.2 not 3.6 Volts therefore represents twice as many Watts (useful power).
OF
pulpF
Well-Known Member
Hi Soloists,
The other day I dropped my Solo II with the stem in it. The stem didn't survive, but the Solo itself seemed fine. I used it for a day, put it in my bag to visit another city, and realised there's a problem. First of all the stem is harder to get in, I looked inside the heating chamber and it looks different. I couldn't find any similar photos to compare the difference, so I am attaching a photo showing what I mean.
The device still turns on, heats up and operate, but there is now a rubbery smell and a faint taste when using the device (similar to when you get a new device prior to letting it cycle through max heat a couple of times, however the smell won't go away). I can't work out what has happened, other than perhaps the chamber has sunken in the unit and is now making contact with something it shouldn't.
I have no other vaporiser with me, and some bud which needs using before I leave. I have bought some papers for emergency, incase this is now unsafe to use.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.
The other day I dropped my Solo II with the stem in it. The stem didn't survive, but the Solo itself seemed fine. I used it for a day, put it in my bag to visit another city, and realised there's a problem. First of all the stem is harder to get in, I looked inside the heating chamber and it looks different. I couldn't find any similar photos to compare the difference, so I am attaching a photo showing what I mean.
The device still turns on, heats up and operate, but there is now a rubbery smell and a faint taste when using the device (similar to when you get a new device prior to letting it cycle through max heat a couple of times, however the smell won't go away). I can't work out what has happened, other than perhaps the chamber has sunken in the unit and is now making contact with something it shouldn't.
I have no other vaporiser with me, and some bud which needs using before I leave. I have bought some papers for emergency, incase this is now unsafe to use.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.
hans solo
Left coast Canada
I want to find a successor or a companion for my much loved mystic blue solo ll.
Flavour , precision heating and low maintenance are my priorities.
I prefer to vape via bong.
Looking at a splinter V2 or Z but I don’t like to stir and it seems unwieldy on a bong.
I mostly vape with the wife on a power recliner so a portable is preferred.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have ruled out the mighty, boundless products and all butane vapes.
Arizer extreme q might work but I would need a nine foot whip so that ain’t happening.
Flavour , precision heating and low maintenance are my priorities.
I prefer to vape via bong.
Looking at a splinter V2 or Z but I don’t like to stir and it seems unwieldy on a bong.
I mostly vape with the wife on a power recliner so a portable is preferred.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have ruled out the mighty, boundless products and all butane vapes.
Arizer extreme q might work but I would need a nine foot whip so that ain’t happening.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Get an US Splinter Z with a DNA mod, you can get the cheap DNA75 mod (under 60$)
I recommend the DNA mod because it is considered to be more accurate and reliable comparing it to the "regular chipped" mods
you'll have to stir the bowl each session one time if you load 0.1g as you would load with the Solo II, prepare yourself to massive clouds
If you want I can send you the link to that mod (Search HCIGAR on Aliexpress, sort by Orders for finding the proper seller)
MasterChief
Well-Known Member
I have a US custom Z and a Solo 2. I like the Z, but it sure is a pain to setup. I was so used to the ease of using the Solo that I’ve stopped using the Z. The Z rips, but I like consistency of the Solo.
hans solo
Left coast Canada
Get an US Splinter Z with a DNA mod, you can get the cheap DNA75 mod (under 60$)
I recommend the DNA mod because it is considered to be more accurate and reliable comparing it to the "regular chipped" mods
you'll have to stir the bowl each session one time if you load 0.1g as you would load with the Solo II, prepare yourself to massive clouds
If you want I can send you the link to that mod (Search HCIGAR on Aliexpress, sort by Orders for finding the proper seller)
The mod I was looking at is the Reuleaux RX GEN3 Dual but I am not sold on the stirring thing, simplicity makes my vaping experience more enjoyable but massive clouds are cool.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
DNA75 is a better choice than the GEN3 in my opinion. efficient, reliable, in terms of dealing with battery saftey and voltage. but you can also get DNA250, just much expensive, but much powerful.
hans solo
Left coast Canada
The simplicity and the consistency of the solo ll are a hard act to follow.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Accurate. One unit, stays clean, big battery, without the need to holding a button.
hans solo
Left coast Canada
The Reuleaux DNA250 was my second choice but it’s the oven that is my first priority.
olivianewtonjohn
Well-Known Member
I have never had a solo 2 (just solo 1 and air 1). You cant beat arizer for low maintenance, flavor, and ease of use. Splinter is supplemental not a replacement in my experience (more like a connoisseur vaporizer). I think you are best suited by the solo 2 as its a portable desktop style vaporizer. If you have the cash I say buy the splinter/mod and expect to buy the solo down the road, another more economical option is the stempod Si (think its like $50-$60)
shadyonedeath
Well-Known Member
What happens if your bud never turns brown? I have a Arizer solo2 that i use with a bubbler. My AVB is always still green/yellow...never brown. Max Heat. 220 C* 428F*
What gives? Do i have a faulty unit? How long is their warranty?
What gives? Do i have a faulty unit? How long is their warranty?
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