ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
been doing some testing with the ArGo and its a sweet little vape. Super easy to use and get good results. I'm testing the battery life but so far I've vaped 2 loads at 356F for 5 minutes each and my battery is 100%. The heat up time to 356F from 62f was 45 seconds the first load and 55 seconds the second load but the vape started a few degrees colder at 59F. Draw is really nice and the vapor is very flavorful, pure, smooth and cool. Hits get warmer, dryer and less flavorful 3ish minutes in but still very nice and pleasant. I've been grinding medium-coarse w/ a Chewy 2 grinder and filling the chamber to the end with 1mm of space like suggested by Arizer. I will be trying screens, different temps and grinds to see what happens. Here a few pics: ABV from 5min @356F and about 15 draws. Pic of oven appears to be the same style as the Air and Solo vapes. ArGo Glass stem with various chambers to show scale and comparison.


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I have SOLO from a long time ago in today's acceleration.

It won't die?

My wife won't let me spend the $$$ 4 a new portable?

I would dump her however I like females built like her.

5'9'' and no body fat? (excess anyway)

At least she buy's me CANNABIS?
I have VAS so bad.
I want to collect vaporizer's but she say's NO!
I only have 10 about? (she say's, too many)?
30 glass WP's is all I have and that's too many?


I want one! (ARGO)
 

OF

Well-Known Member
There's no ArGo WPA on the Arizer website. Anyone have thoughts/experiences with running this device through water?

I didn't find one either. Nor do I recall their being all that fast at offering them for Solo? IIRC for a few years PV was the only source.......

Given the target use, I suspect it's not a priority with them. However I will no doubt be looking for some way to do this, probably with something like the little bubbler PIU sells for Solo/Air. Perhaps with an o-ring but more likely with Silicone tube in the ID of the MP since so little of it is 'proud' (sticking up) to start with. Something around 3/8 inch I figure?

Hopefully in a few more days I'll have something to report.

OF
 

Just Justin

Well-Known Member
Since last night, I've vaped 10 loads through my ArGo, each for 5minutes @ 356F and my battery indicator shows about 50%! I am pleasantly surprised that I got 10 out of a single 18650 but it's still going and if the indicator is accurate, I could get another 5-10 loads...

I also did a conduction test, again at 356F for 5minutes without drawing and packed the chamber the same. The results were interesting and only the very end of the load, the herb that was nearest and possibly touching the metal bottom of the heating chamber had browned a little but most of the herb was still fresh and green. I guess there may be more convection going on here than I thought and if the herb was packed a little tighter and didn't touch the bottom of the heating chamber, there might not have been hardly any cooked herb. I will do another test to confirm or deny this theory. After 5 minutes @ 356F and about 10-15 draws, the herb is always completely cooked and the ABV is tannish brown throughout. I believe the temps on this device are quite accurate and feel similar to the Might / Crafty at the same temp and I get comparable vapor, maybe not as thick but possibly more flavorful and smoother.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
There's no ArGo WPA on the Arizer website. Anyone have thoughts/experiences with running this device through water?

One of @Ratchett's water adapters which seems like the best best: (*the small size must be out of stock)

https://delta3dstudios.com/nearly-universal-vape-to-waterpipe-adapter-medium/

Or even cutting a corkscrew cut down to the appropriate length & then making a circular hole in it.

Although the ArGo has a shorter stem, here's a pic showing how @VCBud adapted the Ghost MV-1 for water use. Something like this may work in the interim.

qFsPDac.jpg

gHS4AHa.jpg
 

DoStuffAndStuff

New Member
Since last night, I've vaped 10 loads through my ArGo, each for 5minutes @ 356F and my battery indicator shows about 50%! I am pleasantly surprised that I got 10 out of a single 18650 but it's still going and if the indicator is accurate, I could get another 5-10 loads...

I also did a conduction test, again at 356F for 5minutes without drawing and packed the chamber the same. The results were interesting and only the very end of the load, the herb that was nearest and possibly touching the metal bottom of the heating chamber had browned a little but most of the herb was still fresh and green. I guess there may be more convection going on here than I thought and if the herb was packed a little tighter and didn't touch the bottom of the heating chamber, there might not have been hardly any cooked herb. I will do another test to confirm or deny this theory. After 5 minutes @ 356F and about 10-15 draws, the herb is always completely cooked and the ABV is tannish brown throughout. I believe the temps on this device are quite accurate and feel similar to the Might / Crafty at the same temp and I get comparable vapor, maybe not as thick but possibly more flavorful and smoother.

Any noticable comparisons against the Solo 2?
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
I also did a conduction test, again at 356F for 5minutes without drawing and packed the chamber the same. The results were interesting and only the very end of the load, the herb that was nearest and possibly touching the metal bottom of the heating chamber had browned a little but most of the herb was still fresh and green.

I believe that this is the only factual data point so far in this discussion relevant to convection vs conduction in the ArGo.

If a vape can be left on with little to no cooking of the herb without drawing air through it, then to me its primarily convection; engineering and physics principles notwithstanding.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
If a vape can be left on with little to no cooking of the herb without drawing air through it, then to me its primarily convection engineering and physics principles notwithstanding.

Have you tried this on other (conduction) vapes? It's actually pretty common I think, I've seen it other places. For instance, Purple Days (a conduction stem vape) had a history of guys fading off and leaving a loaded stem in overnight. The next morning (PD is usually heated 24/7) it looks physically different, but the THC was still there!

The theory is (I get some guys resist theory) that the THC simply evaporates from one place and condenses in another since it can't escape and is not damaged by the temperature. Airflow removes the vapor normally. But that 'experiment' was run many times and reported by many owners, I did it myself to see. Seems real to me.

If you want evidence, how about the observation that putting herb above the glass partition (where there is no conduction available, but convection is in full force) doesn't produce vapor?

What do you suppose the average temperature of the air entering the load is? Some small part of it got heated to 400F no doubt (most never touched anything hot on the way in), but what is the average? I bet under 100F. Surely less than 200, a small fraction of what's needed? The important heat comes thought the walls by conduction. The need/advantage of 'heat soak' is a conduction characteristic, convection should produce instant vapor in a cold stem? It sure does with TV's Cera. And T1 and Evolution. Once the air is 'properly tempered' vapor production is instant and responsive (hit it harder and you get more, not less vapor like with Solo/Air). But a cold stem in a hot Solo/Air doesn't produce vapor until conduction has time to work?

OF
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
Have you tried this on other (conduction) vapes? It's actually pretty common I think, I've seen it other places. For instance, Purple Days (a conduction stem vape) had a history of guys fading off and leaving a loaded stem in overnight. The next morning (PD is usually heated 24/7) it looks physically different, but the THC was still there!

The theory is (I get some guys resist theory) that the THC simply evaporates from one place and condenses in another since it can't escape and is not damaged by the temperature. Airflow removes the vapor normally. But that 'experiment' was run many times and reported by many owners, I did it myself to see. Seems real to me.

If you want evidence, how about the observation that putting herb above the glass partition (where there is no conduction available, but convection is in full force) doesn't produce vapor?

What do you suppose the average temperature of the air entering the load is? Some small part of it got heated to 400F no doubt (most never touched anything hot on the way in), but what is the average? I bet under 100F. Surely less than 200, a small fraction of what's needed? The important heat comes thought the walls by conduction. The need/advantage of 'heat soak' is a conduction characteristic, convection should produce instant vapor in a cold stem? It sure does with TV's Cera. And T1 and Evolution. Once the air is 'properly tempered' vapor production is instant and responsive (hit it harder and you get more, not less vapor like with Solo/Air). But a cold stem in a hot Solo/Air doesn't produce vapor until conduction has time to work?

OF
I have no idea WTF you want to argue about this and do it on the basis of theory and analysis when we have a real world data point (albeit only one so far)

No, my experience with full conduction vapes is that if you leave a load in there with the vape on, then the load gets cashed. Oh, this was with a FM Pro.

But that 'experiment' was run many times and reported by many owners,

Who? With what?

Sorry, I'm bailing on this topic. My position is clear...if you can leave it on without air flow and the herb is not cooked, then its convection and THAT definition is sufficient and accurate for me.

Best to you, now.

Cheers
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Excellent point! In fact I think it might explain a lot? No doubt that's the 'conventional wisdom', but on what is it based? A few years back, on that topic, someone opined that in general conduction vapes were harder to clean well, which makes sense here. I think the stem being easy to keep clean goes a very long way to delivering the excellent taste. So there are exceptions. I think, for instance, Solo/Air tastes 'cleaner' than ESV, which is real conduction but harder to clean. No, make that 'darn near impossible'. VGs can fit that model too I think.

The second point is also an important one. Convection vapes mean breathing in lots of heated air along with the vapor that was made by that air. That means more drying out of you without delivering more blessed THC. Recreational users don't face this as starkly I think. For MMJ types like me, with different vapes all around, I just switch to something else when it gets into tough sledding.

Two great, even borderline profound, points in one post? Most cool. Thanks.

OF

Have you tried this on other (conduction) vapes? It's actually pretty common I think, I've seen it other places. For instance, Purple Days (a conduction stem vape) had a history of guys fading off and leaving a loaded stem in overnight. The next morning (PD is usually heated 24/7) it looks physically different, but the THC was still there!

The theory is (I get some guys resist theory) that the THC simply evaporates from one place and condenses in another since it can't escape and is not damaged by the temperature. Airflow removes the vapor normally. But that 'experiment' was run many times and reported by many owners, I did it myself to see. Seems real to me.

If you want evidence, how about the observation that putting herb above the glass partition (where there is no conduction available, but convection is in full force) doesn't produce vapor?

What do you suppose the average temperature of the air entering the load is? Some small part of it got heated to 400F no doubt (most never touched anything hot on the way in), but what is the average? I bet under 100F. Surely less than 200, a small fraction of what's needed? The important heat comes thought the walls by conduction. The need/advantage of 'heat soak' is a conduction characteristic, convection should produce instant vapor in a cold stem? It sure does with TV's Cera. And T1 and Evolution. Once the air is 'properly tempered' vapor production is instant and responsive (hit it harder and you get more, not less vapor like with Solo/Air). But a cold stem in a hot Solo/Air doesn't produce vapor until conduction has time to work?

OF

A request to take this debate elsewhere does NOT mean it's okay to continue it because someone else did. You are being singled out here because you have more than enough experience at FC to know better, and you were the one who started this whole derail. Send me an angry PM if you like, but one more post in this thread about this topic gets you a warning point.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

I just got my ArGo and can hopefully answer a few questions. First off:
diPneev.jpg


Hopefully that is a good representation if size, much better IMO than random hands? With the cover up (about 10mm) it's almost exactly the same size as the Altoids tin, and a tiny bit thicker.

The standard half inch tube cap does an excellent job of covering the MP when up, there's just enough of a gap above the glass inside so you can push a thumbnail in from the side and pop it off without pulling the stem up out of the vape (which a cork does.....). For those who insist is shouldn't be too hard to find a cork, the ID is a tiny bit under 3/8 inch, not enough to worry about. Making a number 1 cork the right size. They were under a quarter each at the local hardware store last time I bought them there:
http://corkology.com/what-size-cork-stopper-do-i-need-p-165.html

The inch and a half (or so) piece or Silicone tube does a great job coupling to 14mm WT connections. It goes over the lip on the stem on one end and over or inside the 14mm connector depending on gender (inside the F, outside the M). Works great, I got my forth hit that way, just as the flavor was starting to fade a bit, great hit didn't even have to crank up the heat!

I cheated a bit on using the new 18650 since is was (correctly) partially charged when I got it so I borrowed the 18650 from my Air for a quick test, the factory one and the vape are now on charge. Based on the battery use for the 1.5 sessions I did, it seems 'on par' for Air (where I'd expect 5 or maybe 5 sessions) so the 50% increase in capacity should give us 6, 7 or maybe even 8? It's a bit annoying in that the stem is over the heater (of course....) so the hot part of the case is against your thumb base if you're right handed. But stuff has to go somewhere, and they sure packed it in well it seems.

Another observation I haven't heard yet is about the vents at the bottom. They are definitely different ('improved'?) over what came before. The cavity in the floor is bigger and the holes are not only larger but extend up the sides. Yes, up the wall. I was able to fish the bent end of a .041 inch wire sideways through them. Low restriction guys are sure to love it. There's a grill the bottom just under the oven, and up that side, hard to say how isolated the electronics is for those with that concern.

The case itself is plastic(s). Very nicely done in terms of fit and finish, and the bottom half has a 'rubber coat' which is very easy to grip. Ribs on the sides add to the 'easy to handle' aspects very well. The sort of thing you'd expect Arizer to come up with?

The micro USB port works as expected, it's uncovered and actually kind of hard to find among the ribs on the side, it charges at 1 Amp (right now) so will take close to 3 hours bottom to top I expect. It displays the usual 'charging battery icon' but also the % of charge. Very nice.

It's not a direct copy of the Solo II (I don't have an Air II) in some small ways (like the things you can change like beep and such) but it also flashes the temperature when booted up. Pushing a button fixes it and it stops flashing and gets to the business of heating up, but IMO flashing displays don't fit well with stealth.

One minor quibble with labeling. IMO the label on the door latch is backwards. It has a bar with a locked lock icon on one side, unlocked on the other. Putting your fingernail on the unlock side (what you want to do) and pushing so it would be the only icon showing doesn't work. It's even logical in that pushing that way would normally retract a latch inside and let the door swing open (toward the hinge push). No joy, It goes the other way. You push on the lock side and the latch comes out of the body and unlocks the door from the outside, not inside. IMO the icons are backwards, but maybe that just because I'm using inches not metric?

Anyway, from what I've seen (and done), Arizer has another winner here. Not for everyone, but I think darn near everyone will find it useful if not often used? If that makes sense.

If it interests you I see no reason (past price perhaps) not to recommend it.

Please feel free to ask questions, I'm happy to answer ones I can, but but tend to avoid subjective calls often?

Regards and Merry Christmas wishes to all.

OF
 

ohmygodimsohigh

Well-Known Member
After 9 bowls in it so far today - I am really enjoying it.

I took it to the local outdoor mall, crowded as hell.
I turned it on in my pocket and walked around enjoying a 10 minute session.

I really enjoyed having discreet and stealthy ARIZER vapor in an easy to pocket vape.
First battery charge powered me through 6 bowls, 10 minutes each.

Video coming shortly
 
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invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
After 9 bowls in it so far today - I am really enjoying it.

I took it to the local outdoor mall, crowded as hell.
I turned it on in my pocket and walked around enjoying a 10 minute session.

I really enjoyed heaving discreet and stealthy ARIZER vapor in an easy to pocket vape.
First battery charge powered me through 6 bowls, 10 minutes each.

Video coming shortly

Is it smoother than an Air or is the vapor still kind of harsh?
 
invertedisdead,
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ohmygodimsohigh

Well-Known Member
Is it smoother than an Air or is the vapor still kind of harsh?
To me it kind of feels smoother, but i was pretty high (and excited) while performing the side-by-side comparison.

The argo stem is a different shape. It's more narrow than the air/solo stem at the bowl, but it's more open at the mouth.

I'll do another comparison
 

OF

Well-Known Member
The case itself is plastic(s). Very nicely done in terms of fit and finish, and the bottom half has a 'rubber coat' which is very easy to grip. Ribs on the sides add to the 'easy to handle' aspects very well. The sort of thing you'd expect Arizer to come up with?

OK, after a bit more inspection, it seems I lied. The case is not all plastic. The upper half is Aluminum it seems based on the scratches at the USB port. I needed a magnifier, but it's real and confirms the 'this doesn't sound like plastic when you tap on it' point.

The lower half (the 'rubber' part) is plastic. A single molded piece that's held on the top half by a single screw next to the hinge under the cover. There's a rubber plug in the hole, but under it is a small (number 1?) Philips screw in a well.

When I get tired of playing, I think I'll go for the screw....... Blows the warranty, of course, but when does Airzer stuff break? There's a hopefully small risk I won't get it back together, but I'm very curious to get a peek inside. What you can see though the battery compartment looks interesting. It's calling to me, softly, but persistently.

Sorry to have misled folks about the case, it is a very effective and intriguing little vape. Perhaps not for everyone, but appreciated by 'everyone' I think.

Glad I got it.

OF
 

Bearsabi

Member
OK, after a bit more inspection, it seems I lied. The case is not all plastic. The upper half is Aluminum it seems based on the scratches at the USB port. I needed a magnifier, but it's real and confirms the 'this doesn't sound like plastic when you tap on it' point.

The lower half (the 'rubber' part) is plastic. A single molded piece that's held on the top half by a single screw next to the hinge under the cover. There's a rubber plug in the hole, but under it is a small (number 1?) Philips screw in a well.

When I get tired of playing, I think I'll go for the screw....... Blows the warranty, of course, but when does Airzer stuff break? There's a hopefully small risk I won't get it back together, but I'm very curious to get a peek inside. What you can see though the battery compartment looks interesting. It's calling to me, softly, but persistently.

Sorry to have misled folks about the case, it is a very effective and intriguing little vape. Perhaps not for everyone, but appreciated by 'everyone' I think.

Glad I got it.

OF

Part of me wishes they went for that material for the whole vape. I got no problem with the soft touch matte plastic they went with but the aluminum just feels so nice in the hand that i wouldn't mind the extra weight. Feels weird that their most expensive portable is the one that feels the cheapest in comparison to their other vapes
 

ohmygodimsohigh

Well-Known Member
OK, after a bit more inspection, it seems I lied. The case is not all plastic. The upper half is Aluminum it seems based on the scratches at the USB port. I needed a magnifier, but it's real and confirms the 'this doesn't sound like plastic when you tap on it' point.

The lower half (the 'rubber' part) is plastic. A single molded piece that's held on the top half by a single screw next to the hinge under the cover. There's a rubber plug in the hole, but under it is a small (number 1?) Philips screw in a well.

When I get tired of playing, I think I'll go for the screw....... Blows the warranty, of course, but when does Airzer stuff break? There's a hopefully small risk I won't get it back together, but I'm very curious to get a peek inside. What you can see though the battery compartment looks interesting. It's calling to me, softly, but persistently.

Sorry to have misled folks about the case, it is a very effective and intriguing little vape. Perhaps not for everyone, but appreciated by 'everyone' I think.

Glad I got it.

OF

I fell for it too!!
I called it plastic in my video and didn't realize the mistake until this afternoon.
The bottom part may even be metal. It feels like the fury 2 body, which is a metallic alloy unibody coated in some sort of rubbery plastic
 

Cheesequake

Free Men Don't Ask
I think this will probably be my next vape. A more portable air with increased air flow sounds pretty sweet. I'l be watching out for PIU or aromatek to get them at a decent price.
 
Cheesequake,
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OF

Well-Known Member
I fell for it too!!
I called it plastic in my video and didn't realize the mistake until this afternoon.
The bottom part may even be metal.

Thanks. Nice to know I'm not the only fool in town. I might have even 'heard' (or read) it somewhere, but I should have looked closer, the 'feel' just wasn't right for plastic. And like I said it 'thumped' wrong.

The bottom is plastic, I just scratched the battery tube. The door is metal (of course....). Very solid design I think, excellent use of materials as they seem to do as a matter of course? No obvious poor compromises WRT reliability. I'm very curious how they designed the oven. It's obviously 'in the family' but has some important differences I think. Not just a simple evolution like we saw on Solo (even before Air) and Air. This oven is different. Perhaps in important ways?

OF
 
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