Arizer Air II

dontmindme

Active Member
I found the wpa listed as a accessory on arizers website and the new stems provided with the unit be different.

The wpa(air 1/solo 1)has a larger diameter and smaller sized holes. It compressed my gasket a little bit and now my air 2 stem is a little loose fit.

Still air tight i think... but you wont be experiencing the increased air/vapor flow with the current stock of the wpa or atleast when i purchases it, or what i received from arizer.

Edit

So this device was developed in canada?
Was it tested in mexico prior to release?

The actual heat up tempurature incorporates the glass stems heat retention.
 
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dontmindme,
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UnevenPizza

I dream of Pizza
I'm going to buy an IR thermometer eventually so that I can measure the temps of my dabs, it would be interesting to test it out on the Air II as well.

That would be cool! That would be a good way to measure the actual temp. Can it work through glass? I'm just wondering if it would be measuring the temp inside the bowl or the glass bowls walls? Hm I'm no physicist!

Thank you @OF and @InhaleExhale for the insight into Li-ion batteries! Good stuff!


Finally got one, and really like it. The improved airflow is night and day.

I gave the included battery for a 7 hour “over charge” before turning it on. Must have done 8 sessions by the time I did 2 burn offs, a few stems, and tried the included lavender.

Haven’t plugged it in yet and still showing as 50% battery on the screen.

Wow, that's impressive! What temp did you run it at, at what session length?

I've thought about using my a2 for micro dosing, I've been using less and less material and using a dome screen may be a cool improvement.
I usual scoop a load out of the grinder with the stem, never really pack it tightly. Last night I tried filling it only half full, thinking maybe if it's loose I could sort of stir it while inhaling (or shaking it lightly) and getting an even bake.

I saw this pic on reddit and will try to bend something like this for myself haha:

jZH3c13.jpg

credit: reddit user herb_puffer
 

bluenavey00

Arizer Air Aficionado
Wow, that's impressive! What temp did you run it at, at what session length

It was very unscientific, but the first two sessions were 12 mins and at 220 for the burn offs, me and my GF did 3 stems worth, maybe an hour or total on time. Then we tried the lavender on 150 up to 220 for a session or two.

Then I tried to drain the battery down before bed, to fully charge over night it was on what looked like 30%. There was no stem in but it was siting on 220 for over 30 mins.

I am intending to measure it more accurately, but I’m guessing it was at least 2 hours of run time. Maybe even just over.
 
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metaknight

I dab. A lot.
That would be cool! That would be a good way to measure the actual temp. Can it work through glass? I'm just wondering if it would be measuring the temp inside the bowl or the glass bowls walls?

I would try measuring the crucible's temperature if I got an IR thermometer. Once I get a Solo II as well I want to try measuring all of my current Arizer models.

I did a side-by-side temperature comparison with the Air and the Air II just now. Both of the units I ran at 210C/410F. I didn't expect much difference, and there was none. Both of the bowls got just as dark.
 
metaknight,
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OF

Well-Known Member
So this device was developed in canada?
Was it tested in mexico prior to release?

The actual heat up tempurature incorporates the glass stems heat retention.

Yes, Arizer is Canadian. The Solo/Air line (now 10 years old?) is made there as are a bunch of other keen Arizer stuff I don't own. No telling where it was tested, I'm sure they have no trouble getting volunteers most anywhere they want?

Yes, sorta. "Heat retention" isn't a factor, nor is thermal conductivity (how fast heat can move through the glass to the load) really since that only changes the times scale. Eventually 'heat soak' brings the glass, load, screen if there up to the same temperature as the cup (and no hotter). How long that eventually is depends on a lot of things of course, but once it 'recovers' the temperature of the cup rules the game, it determines the temperatures available.

Thank you @OF and @InhaleExhale for the insight into Li-ion batteries! Good stuff!

Wow, that's impressive! What temp did you run it at, at what session length?

I've thought about using my a2 for micro dosing, I've been using less and less material and using a dome screen may be a cool improvement.
I usual scoop a load out of the grinder with the stem, never really pack it tightly. Last night I tried filling it only half full, thinking maybe if it's loose I could sort of stir it while inhaling (or shaking it lightly) and getting an even bake.

I saw this pic on reddit and will try to bend something like this for myself haha:

Yer welcome fer sure! I'm with you, that's the sorta stuff that brings me here. Lots of good folks pooling their experiences and ideas. Honestly. About as good as it gets.

In your experiments stay mindful of the conduction nature. Packing improves this heat transfer but can obstruct the airflow if overdone. Grind helps here, avoid fine grinds (like flour or fine sand) as it can pack in too tight. Getting all the THC out of a tiny load at normal rates is a challenge, enjoy it.

FWIW, my favorite vape for tiny doses is VapMan. A personal favorite for many reasons. You might check it out as you need to have a backup?????

Guys make domed stems from 5/8 inch screens usually. Forming the bowl over the end of a 'Sharpie Pen' is the usual technique I think. In the end many of us came to use the custom screen our own @Sinclue found for us:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/200981331675?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The same guy sells different size lots, cheap and they last a LONG time. They look like this installed:
eslZCjG.jpg


When they finally foul (it takes a long time since all the holes 'work') fish it out (I use a bent safety pin) and torch it until it glows. The SS is fine, the other stuff burns off and laves fine ash that you can brush or blow off before putting it back.

Standby for rants below on IR Pyrometers ('thermometers') and battery life (or be really clever and skip on.....)

Then I tried to drain the battery down before bed, to fully charge over night it was on what looked like 30%.

I am intending to measure it more accurately, but I’m guessing it was at least 2 hours of run time. Maybe even just over.

I'd avoid intentionally 'draining the battery down' unless there's an advantage I don't see? Unlike some other battery types. All you can do is potentially harm it with deep discharges and waste time and energy recharging it again? Your call, but IMO not good advice generally.

Run time will depend (mostly) on vaping load. That is from a 'heat load' POV the heater has to provide energy to make up for losses (mostly conduction to the case) and make vapor. Making vapor takes more percentage wise in normal use. I did a lot of testing with Solo years back. A good pack will give 'a session a light', it can be depended on for 8 'normal sessions', perhaps a bit more. But it will also go FIFTY or more sessions 'open top, no stem, full blast' ('burn offs'). I did a lot of such testing and reported it in that thread.

The new battery type brings Solo II to 50% more capacity being 50% 'bigger'. It also means charging is 50% higher, requiring a new 'wall wort'. 12 normal sessions seems to be par now. More possible if you play with it as before. Using that scale, I'd expect Air II to have the same change. Where we used to have 4 'for sure' sessions on tap, now the number will be six? Nothing magic, nice, but not magic. Just numbers.

I would try measuring the crucible's temperature if I got an IR thermometer. Once I get a Solo II as well I want to try measuring all of my current Arizer models.

I did a side-by-side temperature comparison with the Air and the Air II just now. Both of the units I ran at 210C/410F. I didn't expect much difference, and there was none. Both of the bowls got just as dark.

IR Pyrometers are useful and fun but have their limitations. They are basically light meters for a light we can't see. The idea is the hotter stuff is the brighter it glows (which is true enough obviously). But 'how bright stuff glows' includes temperature and a constant determined by material called "emissivity":
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emissivity

Basically a measure of how easily it emits photons as opposed to absorbing them. Very important WRT to precision:
http://www.npl.co.uk/reference/faqs/what-is-emissivity-and-why-is-it-important-(faq-thermal)

Cheap units (like we generally use) have a preset (IIRC .95, that is it glows 95% as bright as the ideal "Black Body" does at that temperature). Those that allow you to change will change the indicated temperature with every change in Emissivity..... As so often happens, calibration becomes a big issue. Simply changing the surface finish (say polishing it) can change Emissivity greatly. There's been a lot of poking at this over the years, some searching (try using Google restricted to this Forum?) could provide you with hours of reading fun. I've also played some with thermocouples (which found some interesting and useful stuff on Ascent) and 'thermal paint'. IMO 'reading the ABV' and monitoring the expected vapor is probably most useful?

TCs have their limitations too, of course. Not the least among them being the leads pulling heat out causing a 'too low to be real' reading. That condemned this experiment:
LZUxiqM.jpg


Although a similar one with Ascent worked well:
VEM60ZH.jpg


I still put my faith in ABV color and vapor production, subjective as they both are?

OF
 

dontmindme

Active Member
After using this vaporizer for a month or so... I've completely stopped using it. I don't agree to have the air intake near the circuitry and wiring. They advertised isolated air path... but it's the same as the Solo II it appears.
 
dontmindme,

jdent3

Well-Known Member
After using this vaporizer for a month or so... I've completely stopped using it. I don't agree to have the air intake near the circuitry and wiring. They advertised isolated air path... but it's the same as the Solo II it appears.

The circuitry is in the battery compartment sealed from the air path. There are two wires coming out of that compartment and into the heating chamber. Im guessing the two wires are wrapped in silicon. I have tested mine extensively and notice no offgassing or off taste. I even vaped a bowl with no bud in it to see if I could detect anything. I think your worrying for nothing, the design of the airpath is definitely different than the Solo 2.
 

dontmindme

Active Member
I still think with a re-design of the heating chamber, with a top air flow or even a side one... you could eliminate silicone from the air path.

It's possible when the stem is loaded or the device is inverted for the heat to escape thru the air intake along the wiring due to less resistance?

People seem to be happy with arizer products, so it might just be me and my concerns...
 
dontmindme,

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
I still think with a re-design of the heating chamber, with a top air flow or even a side one... you could eliminate silicone from the air path.

It's possible when the stem is loaded or the device is inverted for the heat to escape thru the air intake along the wiring due to less resistance?

People seem to be happy with arizer products, so it might just be me and my concerns...

I've always trusted an Arizer product, I've had 3 OG Solos, an OG Air, an Air II and now a Solo II on its way. I feel like a lot of air also comes through the top of the vaporizer passing the glass and stainless steel crucible, although I haven't cut down a silicon o-ring and put it in-between the plastic and gasket yet so I cannot confirm that. Either way, all I taste is clean vapor and no plastic tastes out of all my Arizer products.

I also turn my vapes upside down with no adverse affect to taste or burning things.
 

dontmindme

Active Member
i cant detect any foreign smells either.

it might be the wpa they list for the air 2 stretched my gasket out and is no longer air tight... and air is flowing thru the seal (like you said)... but i dont know.

I've noticed better flavor with the original stems with smaller holes though.

I don't know what the air intake chamber where the wires are housed in is made of... or if all the materials used is safe to be running at max temp with no air flow to cool it down.

Going to continue not using it to see if this is giving me cold like symptoms.
 
dontmindme,

Simple Man

Simple Pleasures
Haven't posted here in a LOOOONG time. Lost my login info and couldn't get help getting it back. Found a piece of paper with login info today, so now I'm back.

Dropped and broke my OG Air last week while on vacation in Vegas so I came back to investigate new vapes and found this thread. How exciting. Will the Air II work with all of my old Solo and Air stems? Particularly interested in using my TnT blackwood stem. If so, I'll be ordering an Air II sometime before xmas. Merry Christmas to me.

While I was writing this Simple Man came on Spotify. Must be a sign. Lol.
 

BigJr48

Well-Known Member
Haven't posted here in a LOOOONG time. Lost my login info and couldn't get help getting it back. Found a piece of paper with login info today, so now I'm back.

Dropped and broke my OG Air last week while on vacation in Vegas so I came back to investigate new vapes and found this thread. How exciting. Will the Air II work with all of my old Solo and Air stems? Particularly interested in using my TnT blackwood stem. If so, I'll be ordering an Air II sometime before xmas. Merry Christmas to me.

While I was writing this Simple Man came on Spotify. Must be a sign. Lol.

All the Og stems fit great and with plenty of flavor
 

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
Wonder whether the ed's stem will fit to tight to allow good airflow. Has anyone actually used one in the Aa2?

On Puffitup they are selling the granadillo wong for the Air II so I'm assuming a stainless steel bowl like yours will fit in it.

The air flow is great with stock stems regardless, but I could see the advantage with a non-breakable stem.
 

Simple Man

Simple Pleasures
In addition to getting a lot of use at home, my AA has always been my goto vape for out and about. So the unbreakable wong is always in it. Black and unbreakable is a good combination for a stealth public vape. Not to mention the AA size making it easy to palm.

Don't remember if anybody said whether the screen on the AA2 can be turned down or nearly off when in public and not wanting to draw attention?
 

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
In addition to getting a lot of use at home, my AA has always been my goto vape for out and about. So the unbreakable wong is always in it. Black and unbreakable is a good combination for a stealth public vape. Not to mention the AA size making it easy to palm.

Don't remember if anybody said whether the screen on the AA2 can be turned down or nearly off when in public and not wanting to draw attention?
The screen can be turned to a low brightness setting.
 
metaknight,
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frank grimes

Well-Known Member
Anyone know if any external charger can be used with the air 2?

I got a 1A xtar ant mc1 charger which I'd like to use.
 
frank grimes,

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
I find the low brightness setting still very bright for nighttime use so I just cover the screen with my hand while vaping at night. Doesn't bother me at all.

I also find it's kinda bright. You can still clearly see the light, but it's hard to read such a small screen from a distance.
 

UnevenPizza

I dream of Pizza
In addition to getting a lot of use at home, my AA has always been my goto vape for out and about. So the unbreakable wong is always in it. Black and unbreakable is a good combination for a stealth public vape. Not to mention the AA size making it easy to palm.

Don't remember if anybody said whether the screen on the AA2 can be turned down or nearly off when in public and not wanting to draw attention?

AFAIK You can't turn it off.
But you could slide the/a silicon cover a little to the side, so that it covers the screen. You can still press the buttons that way, if needed.
If you don't have/want a cover, your thumb usually can cover the entire screen, so if you don't mind fingerprints then that could also work in a pinch.
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
For those of you that have used the Air and the Air2.......how is the extraction in comparison. I was reading on a reddit forum that some people thought the Air2 does not hit/extract as good as the Air versions. They said they got lighter vapor in comparison.

Do you feel you get better results with the old Air....or no difference at all? I really want to upgrade my Air to the new version....but not if it sacrifices performance in extraction ability.
 
LabPong,

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
For those of you that have used the Air and the Air2.......how is the extraction in comparison. I was reading on a reddit forum that some people thought the Air2 does not hit/extract as good as the Air versions. They said they got lighter vapor in comparison.

Do you feel you get better results with the old Air....or no difference at all? I really want to upgrade my Air to the new version....but not if it sacrifices performance in extraction ability.

It depends on your draw speed. The ability to have free flowing air has its drawbacks, I usually pack my stem tighter than usual to stop myself from drawing so quickly.

I've done a bowl at the same temperature and they both extract about the same amount, the color is about the same. I'll get pictures up in about half an hour :science:

A little sooner for the pictures.

EDIT:

Here's my results. I used the same stem for both, and set both to 401F and had the Air II run a 10 minute session for consistency.

a3eacdb88ae064b6d9539c43a31d2876.png
 
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