Any recommendations for a good 4 slot 18650 battery charger?

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I have one of these Nitecore Intellicharger i4 that I've had for years (at least 10 years or more), and it still works fine.

However, I'd like to upgrade to a newer charger with a screen, and one that has the battery revive function to run batteries through a number of up and down charges to revitalize batteries health.

Anyone have any suggestions? I'd like to keep at least four battery bays without having to downgrade to a model with only two bays.

Look at the Opus that Gordentreeman recommended in the post above yours, or the XTAR VC4SL mentioned a few times in this thread. I use a more expensive charger the SKYRC MC3000, but it’s interface may be too complicated for most. Bought on sale for $80.00.

 

Md_Hybrid

Stuck under a 🪵
Charging took just over 2 hours @ 1A, these are new never used batteries BTW. I went ahead and labeled them so I can start keeping track of their performance.
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Charging took just over 2 hours @ 1A, these are new never used batteries BTW. I went ahead and labeled them so I can start keeping track of their performance.
IMG-20220916-171124.jpg

IMG-20220916-171121.jpg

IMG-20220916-171701.jpg

Mark the new batteries with #, Date, and DC resistance.

Your charger has ability to TEST: Internal Resistance – mΩ, an estimate that shows the health of the cell

Make sure both ends of battery, and charger contacts are clean, I rotate the batteries a bit when in the slots, you want the best possible connection, I sometimes take the batteries out, then back in, rotate again, and see when I can get the lowest resistance number to log. I usually look up the manufacturers technical specifications for my batteries, but most big companies use AC resistance, and don’t publish the DC resistance numbers, the kind even expensive chargers like mine use. There are separate AC resistance meters, but most here have no interest. And the DC numbers are NOT convertible to the AC numbers, too bad.

On my charger, my new Molicel P26a batteries showed: 18 ohms AC.

Over time and usage, the resistance will climb. At 2-3x the resistance, it’s a good sign, besides bad performance to recycle and replace.
Good luck!
 

DrJynx86

Well-Known Member
I labelled all my batteries and keep track of each charge session mAh in a spreadsheet, the same is used to ensure the same rotation every time, I have yet to see a big downgrade in capacity because it all depends on actual vaping length, so sometimes they can be at 2300, get down to 2250 and next time they do 2350.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I labelled all my batteries and keep track of each charge session mAh in a spreadsheet, the same is used to ensure the same rotation every time, I have yet to see a big downgrade in capacity because it all depends on actual vaping length, so sometimes they can be at 2300, get down to 2250 and next time they do 2350.

I keep a digital note of my battery tests, though a spreadsheet is IDEAL, good for you.

For those that don’t know, the best way to compare the mAh of a lithium battery to its advertised capacity:

Easier on a charger like the one I use, but it’s a C-D-C program. Battery is FIRST charged to FULL, then SECOND, DISCHARGED to voltage limit the battery specification sheet indicated the factory tests were done at, usually 2.5 volts (lower then most devices auto shut down at approximately 3.0-3.3 volts that the device maker programs into the chip),

Next, the charger CHARGES to FULL.
The charger needs the ability to set the low cutoff to 2.5 volts, then the accurate counting of the milliamps begins to full charge at 4.2 volts should be close to the advertised number. Battery Mouch does a lot of these tests as well online.

If you don’t have a charger that has a built in C-D-C program, or manual ability to set a cutoff voltage, then noting the mAh numbers after the vapor device shuts down or low battery warning, is the next best way, but you won’t see the absolute highest numbers that are advertised but are truthful in the way the manufacturers test them, but good enough.
 

gordontreeman

Everythings coming up Milhouse!
I'm in the US but these came from Vapefiend in the UK.
Maybe the wraps in the uk are very different. In the us they look nothing like that, at least none of the batteries I have from 18650 battery store. I only ask as usually the wrap is a potential way to spot fake batteries.

Edit: https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/molicel-p26a is what I’m used to seeing. I guess I thought if they were authentic the wraps were supposed to be identical regardless of where they were sent, but I’m not an expert.
 

Squidge

Butane powered
Maybe the wraps in the uk are very different. In the us they look nothing like that, at least none of the batteries I have from 18650 battery store. I only ask as usually the wrap is a potential way to spot fake batteries.

Edit: https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/molicel-p26a is what I’m used to seeing. I guess I thought if they were authentic the wraps were supposed to be identical regardless of where they were sent, but I’m not an expert.
No, on my P28As I have both types of description. One on each side.
 

gordontreeman

Everythings coming up Milhouse!
No, on my P28As I have both types of description. One on each side.
I don’t have this recycling bin logo on my p26a or p28a. Mine all match the product photo from 18650 battery store. Seems they should match no? Do battery factories have region-specific wraps?
 
gordontreeman,

Squidge

Butane powered
I don’t have this recycling bin logo on my p26a or p28a. Mine all match the product photo from 18650 battery store. Seems they should match no? Do battery factories have region-specific wraps?
I suppose it's possible. The only difference between mine and @Md_Hybrid is mine have "or purse" added to the warning not to store in pocket and "supplied by www.fogstar.co.uk" underneath.
 

gordontreeman

Everythings coming up Milhouse!
They do buy their supply directly from Molicel so I don't see why they couldn't.
Do you have a source for this? I’m just curious. I found some thread from mooch that claims they are one of a handful of official distributors for molicel. I don’t really know the history of all of this save that mooch has tested many batteries. It’s just odd that a single anonymous person on the internet is the source for so many people buying one particular brand from a handful of vendors, you know?

Also for what it’s with according to fogstar’s about us page they might print it themselves: they reference needing to buy a special printer and collaborating with the uk gov to conform with some law and provide traceability from the source.
 
gordontreeman,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I only ask as usually the wrap is a potential way to spot fake batteries.

Some companies rewrap known brands and models, though often these can be from B-Bin runs, and cheaper in quantity.

I don’t buy REWRAPS because of the potential mystery. The biggest clue is often rewraps will have bogus HIGH capacity and amperage numbers printed on them, that most uneducated consumers think BIGGER = BETTER, which would be true, if not for the BOGUS numbers. Lying about these important specifications can be DANGEROUS, so your heath and property are not something these aftermarket companies care about, but I do.
 

Squidge

Butane powered
Do you have a source for this? I’m just curious. I found some thread from mooch that claims they are one of a handful of official distributors for molicel. I don’t really know the history of all of this save that mooch has tested many batteries. It’s just odd that a single anonymous person on the internet is the source for so many people buying one particular brand from a handful of vendors, you know?

Also for what it’s with according to fogstar’s about us page they might print it themselves: they reference needing to buy a special printer and collaborating with the uk gov to conform with some law and provide traceability from the source.

Fogstar have been in business for years long before Molicel were known of. I first found them (Fogstar) ages ago as I was part of the e-cig scene. Fogstar are very well regarded as a supplier of batteries in the UK.

Molicel appeared when other battery manufacturers (Sony/Samsung/LG) started to restrict availability to non-industrial sources (laptop manufacturers, etc. could still get them) due to fear of being sued after a number of media reports of people using mech mods and being injured because of them "exploding" whilst being used incorrectly or naked batteries were carried with keys/coins in pockets, therefore causing a hard short.

Molicel marketed their cells towards users of battery mods for nicotine vaping.
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I don’t really know the history of all of this save that mooch has tested many batteries. It’s just odd that a single anonymous person on the internet is the source for so many people buying one particular brand from a handful of vendors, you know?

Understandable, the brief history of Mooch, is from the early days of lithium battery ECig vape devices, often referred to as “mods”.
He began testing batteries as a hobby because of all the advertised over specification, dangerous and fakes on the market. He eventually made a web page supported by donations. Remember, nobody wanted to devote there free time to do time exhausting tests, buy EQ, then the batteries. We all know companies and corporations can’t be trusted on honest, real world product specifications, so there was a huge void in lack of battery knowledge.

As far as TRUSTING, well since this stuff is mostly science, it’s too easy to have your published results questioned.
For example, with the minimal equipment I own, I can test capacity, ohm resistance, very close to his oscilloscope readings. However, he often runs multiple tests on multiple batteries, and runs some longer tests. But basically I can see if his results are accurate.

The only battery parameter that I can’t test, and is probably the most important for safety and battery life and performance, is the HIGH AMP DRAW HEAT TESTING. The advertised AMP number hopefully printed on batteries or at least in the companies specifications sheet, is the LIMIT defined at a certain high temperature in the testing specs. To test the temperature at a high amperage load requires additional equipment, that if accurate, is not cheap. Mooch has always leaned toward being conservative in his AMP results, then the company specs, in regards to the temperature he records when testing at hi loads. So sometimes, lower, but safer recommendations of what the actual AMP limit a battery truly is. I’ll leave it up to him for those specs, but I trust him, he even answers emails.
 
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