Anvil by Vestratto

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
Man, one of my o-rings on the condenser snapped. Kind of dreading having to buy new ones. If anyone knows the size of those rings on the condenser, I'd appreciate the help. Or if you know where I could order some in the US. I'll go ahead and search the thread for o-ring info when I can.
Per their site (the Jan 30 Sunday Post):
The o-rings in the Users edition are
Viton metric 5 x 1 (5mm id 1mm cross section) - 3 each on the condenser.
Viton 6 X 1 - 2 each on the stem.
Viton 8 x 1 - 4 each on the airflow valve.
Nitrile 12 x 1 - 1 each on the heat shield.
 
Went ahead and preordered the new XL case cap along with the XL mouthpiece, XL bowl, and an extra heat shield just for fun (carbon). Figured I’d grab everything in one go and only cry about the shipping once. :)

John also let me know they would refund me $20 for the cap since my order was over $50 and included the XL mouthpiece. Nice. For some reason I assumed that offer only applied to those who purchased the XL mouthpiece previously. Good to know that’s not the case.
 
Last edited:

3xFantasyChamp

Well-Known Member
see this post. these are all you need for the Anvil. The minimum for the heatshield one is 12 so the quantities will give you 12 full sets. best bang for the buck and dont worry about the 5mm being out of stock, its incorrect on the site and they will ship in a few days. i have bought 3 full orders already.
Per their site (the Jan 30 Sunday Post):
The o-rings in the Users edition are
Viton metric 5 x 1 (5mm id 1mm cross section) - 3 each on the condenser.
Viton 6 X 1 - 2 each on the stem.
Viton 8 x 1 - 4 each on the airflow valve.
Nitrile 12 x 1 - 1 each on the heat shield.
That's what I'm talking about right there. Thanks @androponic and @Jill NYC. Looks like 12 sets of o-rings is on the menu!
 

recursive

Member
Went ahead and preordered the new XL case cap along with the XL mouthpiece, XL bowl, and an extra heat shield just for fun (carbon). Figured I’d grab everything in one go and only cry about the shipping once. :)

John also let me know they would refund me $20 for the cap since my order was over $50 and included the XL mouthpiece. Nice. For some reason I assumed that offer only applied to those who purchased the XL mouthpiece previously. Good to know that’s not the case.
Grabbing everything in one go is my logic as well haha. It hurts the wallet more at first but overall it’s cheaper. Nice to hear you got the refund as well!
 

Whiff

Vestratto Brand Ambassador
Company Rep
Thanks for the advice, but I'm confused on one point. Why do you close air natively and open when going through water? wouldnt it be the other way around (you need more air/cooling native - you dont need that cooling when going through water). Am I missing something?

I think I've just perfected riding the line (and other roasts) for my situation. Light pack, airflow fully closed, FireFox flame max flame, go to the second click, then count (Copper Battery - 5 seconds, Nicely Roasted - 6 seconds, Terpy Hit - 7 seconds) depending on which copper ring I place the flame. Maybe its my altitude or something but the FireFox really low flame was not enough to get decent extraction? The Vestratto blog post about using a 1.25cm flame is a little misleading. Mine had to be over 3cm's.

Edit #2: Holy shit I am in love, this is a heavy hitter. Once you find the right workflow for yourself, this thing is a monster.
If i try to finish the chamber in one hit natively i will open the airflow fully to help cool but i prefer half closed as i can take a bunch of smaller dense hits, TBH i mostly leave my airflow set to half unless im using the XL which then im just wide open

i set my inner blue flame to be the length of the oven and battery maybe slightly larger and that gives me around a 30 sec thermal battery click

 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
Started to get the infamous oven wobble, despite keeping the airflow valve all the way in which has helped minimise it previously.

I’m a little concerned as the oven now feels like it can fall off, it’s that wobbly

I’m guessing O-ring wear is the culprit? Anyone got any good UK sources for replacements?
 
My_50p_worth,

Ganjora

Well-Known Member
that's concerning.
how long have you had yours and how much use etc does it get?
 
Ganjora,

fiixed

Well-Known Member
How often are you peeps cleaning your Anvil in iso? I know I was hitting it pretty hard yesterday but I already need to clean the stem it seems, its covered in like a tar.
 
Last edited:

caliganja420

Well-Known Member
How often are you peeps cleaning your Anvil in iso? I know I was hitting it pretty hard yesterday but I already need to clean the stem it seems, its covered in like a tar.
Unfortunately with this type of vape, with such a small and narrow air path, cleaning must happen every other day at a minimum. I have found that I don’t really have to clean the bowl as much as it doesn’t really get dirty
 

vaporculture

Well-Known Member
Every week or so, I heat up a bit of milk in a small saucepan, hold the various internal parts over the pan with tongs and slowly pour boiling water through them. Once there are enough gobs of black oil floating on top of the milk, I stir thoroughly and add a couple of bags of Chai tea and let it simmer for 5-10 minutes.

I recommend not planning any consciousness critical activities for later in the day -- it is a real trip.

Makes the 95% Everclear go farther and stay clearer when soaking the parts afterward to get whatever remains.
 

fiixed

Well-Known Member
Every week or so, I heat up a bit of milk in a small saucepan, hold the various internal parts over the pan with tongs and slowly pour boiling water through them. Once there are enough gobs of black oil floating on top of the milk, I stir thoroughly and add a couple of bags of Chai tea and let it simmer for 5-10 minutes.

I recommend not planning any consciousness critical activities for later in the day -- it is a real trip.

Makes the 95% Everclear go farther and stay clearer when soaking the parts afterward to get whatever remains.
Love this, how much milk do you use?
 
fiixed,

vaporculture

Well-Known Member
Love this, how much milk do you use?
4-6 oz perhaps. Enough that it has a chance of absorbing most of the oil when you stir it up. Bring the milk (slowly) up to the point where you start to see wisps of steam, but not any boiling, before you start pouring boiling water through the parts. The liquid reduces a bit when you simmer it on low for 5-10 minutes.
 
vaporculture,
  • Like
Reactions: fiixed

fiixed

Well-Known Member
So I've combusted a few times over the last few days. Having some issues cleaning the condenser. Its been in Iso for about 7 hours and is still black (the side with the filter, not the o-rings side). Any idea how I can remove the black and make it look newish (or at least remove the black). I put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with iso for about 20 mins with no luck. I am using 70% iso, would bumping it up to 90 or 99% iso help?
 
Last edited:

ibnganja

Well-Known Member
So I've combusted a few times over the last few days. Having some issues cleaning the condenser. Its been in Iso for about 7 hours and is still black (the side with the filter, not the o-rings side). Any idea how I can remove the black and make it look newish (or at least remove the black). I put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with iso for about 20 mins with no luck. I am using 70% iso, would bumping it up to 90 or 99% iso help?

yah, bumping up the ISO to at least 90 will help!

I been putting my anvil parts in a small ziplock, putting a bit of 99% iso, filling the ultrasonic with warm water, and letting it run for like 5-10 minutes.

after that, I pour boiling water on em and swish it around in the water for a bit

then let it dry

and that, my friend, is how I clean my anvil
 

recursive

Member
yah, bumping up the ISO to at least 90 will help!

I been putting my anvil parts in a small ziplock, putting a bit of 99% iso, filling the ultrasonic with warm water, and letting it run for like 5-10 minutes.

after that, I pour boiling water on em and swish it around in the water for a bit

then let it dry

and that, my friend, is how I clean my anvil
I need to try and find some higher percentage of iso. That must have always been my issue with things not cleaning that well either!
 
recursive,
  • Like
Reactions: fiixed

VegNVape

Increase the Peace
Company Rep
Having some issues cleaning the condenser. Its been in Iso for about 7 hours and is still black (the side with the filter, not the o-rings side)
Not particularly nice stuff but Magic Eraser or any of the other brands of this type of sponge cleaner usually work great for cleaning up combustion tarnish. Tear off a small piece of the Magic Eraser, lightly wet it with a few drops of warm water then set to work. You'll soon find the condenser will be shining with minimal elbow grease & your piece of Magic Eraser will be somewhat disintegrated depending on how hard you worked it. Just be sure to give your condenser a thorough iso wipe & rinse afterwards to remove any Magic Eraser particles as these types of sponge are made from melamine & formaldehyde(!) so it is crucial they are not ingested in any way.

I've been using this method on the gold plated copper bowl of my Vapman & various other hard to clean pieces of vape kit for years with good results - & now it has my Anvil condenser looking like new. They're cheap and one sponge can last a long time - I've had the same sponge for more than a year by tearing off small pieces to use as needed.

Prepare for smug mode once you see that clean condenser :smug:

:peace:
 

fiixed

Well-Known Member
Not particularly nice stuff but Magic Eraser or any of the other brands of this type of sponge cleaner usually work great for cleaning up combustion tarnish. Tear off a small piece of the Magic Eraser, lightly wet it with a few drops of warm water then set to work. You'll soon find the condenser will be shining with minimal elbow grease & your piece of Magic Eraser will be somewhat disintegrated depending on how hard you worked it. Just be sure to give your condenser a thorough iso wipe & rinse afterwards to remove any Magic Eraser particles as these types of sponge are made from melamine & formaldehyde(!) so it is crucial they are not ingested in any way.

I've been using this method on the gold plated copper bowl of my Vapman & various other hard to clean pieces of vape kit for years with good results - & now it has my Anvil condenser looking like new. They're cheap and one sponge can last a long time - I've had the same sponge for more than a year by tearing off small pieces to use as needed.
I had not heard of this method before, thank-you I'll give it a go.
 
Last edited:

Whiff

Vestratto Brand Ambassador
Company Rep
Hey guys hope you all had a great weekend! Here's this weeks Sunday Post

 

justcametomind

Well-Known Member
Hey guys hope you all had a great weekend! Here's this weeks Sunday Post

-Which is better convection or conduction?
-“Yes!”.
Season 6 What GIF by The Office

:hmm:
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Hey guys hope you all had a great weekend! Here's this weeks Sunday Post

the copper is too closed to the herb chamber, and copper is like 20x times much conductive than stainless steel. this is not a convection device, more like conduction-hybrid with a good taste and great effects. the supreme/elev8r/tubo/tiny/logs use convection, herb chamber is not too close to the heater, there's no direct or almost direct heating (think about the elev8r, the bowl is set much far from the heater..)

the anvil has a lot of conduction but a lot of good taste, because, copper has a boiling point of like 2400C while SS has a boiling point of 1400C, it seems like there's a bit of convection because you don't heat the chamber itself,ok, but after few seconds it will be hot anyway... = conduction ..... the taste is good, but science is still science ;)
 
Last edited:

cx714

Unregulated Tendencies
It seems like there's a bit of convection because you don't heat the chamber itself,ok, but after few seconds it will be hot anyway... = conduction ..... the taste is good, but science is still science ;)
The debate continues, lol.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member

The debate continues, lol.
I would think this posts ends the debate except for understanding the details. He shows us pictures and explains how conduction happens and also how it's reduced, with evidence. Figuring out the exact proportions per avg heating or whatever would be interesting, but I bet John already has some idea of those proportions.

I guess we could just ask him. John @Vestratto , do you have a guesstimate for the relative proportions of conduction v. convection with the different bowls under avg use conditions?
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom