Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
@2clicker o tried the clapton outer and micro coil inner and it worked okay...
I ran into the same problem as you, the leads were a little too big for the posts
It also took the massive .22 ohm coil a while to heat up, when they did it was beautiful, but it also made the battery experience huge drops with every dab.
So...i took it off and did a solid micro coil center with 24g ti wire and did a twisted coil with 22g wrapped around the outside.
...it was a tight fit, but fit alot better than the clapton and it reads at .18 ohms so it heats up alot faster
Works fucking great! Huge dabs and great taste!
I want to try some more builds but I'm out of wire and need to order some more. I was getting mine from kidney puncher, not sure of the quality though...works for me.
I lost my fc 2000 wicks or I would have liked to still throw one in the center for 'shits and giggles'
I ran into the same problem as you, the leads were a little too big for the posts
It also took the massive .22 ohm coil a while to heat up, when they did it was beautiful, but it also made the battery experience huge drops with every dab.
So...i took it off and did a solid micro coil center with 24g ti wire and did a twisted coil with 22g wrapped around the outside.
...it was a tight fit, but fit alot better than the clapton and it reads at .18 ohms so it heats up alot faster
Works fucking great! Huge dabs and great taste!
I want to try some more builds but I'm out of wire and need to order some more. I was getting mine from kidney puncher, not sure of the quality though...works for me.
I lost my fc 2000 wicks or I would have liked to still throw one in the center for 'shits and giggles'
2clicker
Observer
took a while to heat up? that doesnt sound right. mine got to temp almost instantly. it should vape a large dab within a sec or two.
were you running it in TC mode? what was your wattage?
also you shouldnt see much dif if at all regarding the battery hit when working with .22ohms vs .18ohms. i dont think you would be able to tell a dif at all actually. something wasnt right im thinking.
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
Maybe...maybe all the leads weren't in. It took about 5 seconds to get red hot I was running it at up to 75 watts Om tc mode, that's all I use.
2clicker
Observer
did your Ti actually glow red? if so what temp were you on? what device is this again...? sigelei 75W? on both my TC devices i cannot get a Ti coil to glow even when maxed at 600F.
when i say:
i mean that getting to the 400-500F range (prime vaping range for a mod) should only take a second. when you say 5 seconds to red hot... now that i think about it more it sounds about right. accept for the fact that you can get a coil to glow in TC mode. ive never seen this, but i have only tried 2 TC devices. anyway, the oil is going to vape off of clean Ti wire starting at temps right around 380-400 (from my experience with the devices ive had access to).
honestly it sounds to me like both coils should have performed about the same. your twisted version i will have to try, but just from theory the clapton version SHOULD provide more surface area and in turn vape the dab faster. both have about the same amount of wire on them so i am unsure as to why your clapton'd version did not perform so well. or what the dif was. something was off. either way it sounds like you have found an easier way of constructing this coil. i didnt even think about trying a simple twisted wire instead of the clapton. good shit. the dif in surface area between the two may be little to negligible at best and the twisted version is easier and a less time consuming build for sure. can you post a pic?
@2clicker are u using ti for claptons? I just got my sigelei 150tc a week ago and havnt even touched joules mode cause all I have is 22g kanthal.
I know ive seen wickless coils with I nickle core being used for tc, but it would be nice to use ti wire and make a wickless coil. multi strand core with clapton around that, but im unfamiliar with ti resistance... I may just be stabbing in the dark at nothing.
I know ive seen wickless coils with I nickle core being used for tc, but it would be nice to use ti wire and make a wickless coil. multi strand core with clapton around that, but im unfamiliar with ti resistance... I may just be stabbing in the dark at nothing.
2clicker
Observer
no you are right on. this is all Ti. i make a micro coil that has ZERO space between the wraps. essentially making a cylinder. then i wrap a "loose clapton" around that and twist the leads together. by "loose clapton" i mean when making the clapton wire... that you leave space between the wraps over the core wire. that space allows for a larger dab to be loaded w/out loss to the deck. when you fire it it the outter coil starts to vape. then the rest of oil goes to "wick" it gets nailed by the inner micro coil. the oil has nowhere to go except hit the heated Ti surface. its trapped in an electrical cage like some crazy backyard wrestler shit. the coil IS the wick.
unfortunately my only experience with this coil was one fat ass dab. i stopped using it because the wire was questionable. once i get new wire in (still gotta find it and order it) i will build it again and post pics. if it works as well as the one dab i did have then maybe ill shoot a video. i can say it was easily the closest i have ever come to a true dab... on a portable rig. so good in fact id say it was as good as any dab i have ever had.
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where did you get the questionable wire so I can avoid it?
I found some 30g ti wire but it doesnt state the purity.
2clicker
Observer
its from Unkamen Jewelry supply. lots of ecig heads use their wire still, but if i cannot get it clean enough to use then im not using it.
im looking into Gallium Source now... i think they have good clean wire. the spider silk shit is good, but its so marked up.
Got my stubby and steel mesh tonight. Did not expect the mesh to be so fabric like.
1) 2clicker, I see what you mean regarding hole size - there is very little room for leads. My backup plan was to use the screw at the top of the post, but HEX??? There is no flange to bite the lead. Does anyone happen to know the threading on a stubby? Those hex screws gotta go - if for no other reason that they are just inconvenient relative to Phillips et al.
2) A pure mesh burning platform does not appear to be feasible given the above constraints. Didn't have a ton of time, nor much success. My best attempt began as a T shape of mesh - the vertical part about .5in wide by 2in tall, the horizontal part maybe 2in wide by a couple millimeters tall. I started rolling a tube from the horizontal part of the T. This section became the leads. I continued rolling through the vertical part of the T until the end. The final result was a mesh cylinder with leads coming out of the center. The resistance was around .75ohms, and mounted easily enough. BUT... once I sparked it up the center of the cylinder received very little heat while the ends near the leads were glowing red. With larger openings/flanges in the stubby there would be more options, but I am putting this idea to rest until I either drill out the holes or get some new screws.
Well that's it from me for a few days - going away for a long weekend, then have a test when I get back to prep for. By then some more gear (and wax) will have arrived. Until then the 2clicker-2coil sounds like the way to go.
Oh yeah 2clicker, I double checked and my Ti wire is coming from GalliumSource (arriving tomorrow when I'm flying, naturally). I have learned that Ti wire can be sold "clean" or "black". You got black in your first go, which obviously means the compounds used in manufacture are still on the wire. Hopefully GalliumSource will send out clean. Maybe you can confirm with vendors which type they have before purchase. I'll know on Monday or Tuesday.
1) 2clicker, I see what you mean regarding hole size - there is very little room for leads. My backup plan was to use the screw at the top of the post, but HEX??? There is no flange to bite the lead. Does anyone happen to know the threading on a stubby? Those hex screws gotta go - if for no other reason that they are just inconvenient relative to Phillips et al.
2) A pure mesh burning platform does not appear to be feasible given the above constraints. Didn't have a ton of time, nor much success. My best attempt began as a T shape of mesh - the vertical part about .5in wide by 2in tall, the horizontal part maybe 2in wide by a couple millimeters tall. I started rolling a tube from the horizontal part of the T. This section became the leads. I continued rolling through the vertical part of the T until the end. The final result was a mesh cylinder with leads coming out of the center. The resistance was around .75ohms, and mounted easily enough. BUT... once I sparked it up the center of the cylinder received very little heat while the ends near the leads were glowing red. With larger openings/flanges in the stubby there would be more options, but I am putting this idea to rest until I either drill out the holes or get some new screws.
Well that's it from me for a few days - going away for a long weekend, then have a test when I get back to prep for. By then some more gear (and wax) will have arrived. Until then the 2clicker-2coil sounds like the way to go.
Oh yeah 2clicker, I double checked and my Ti wire is coming from GalliumSource (arriving tomorrow when I'm flying, naturally). I have learned that Ti wire can be sold "clean" or "black". You got black in your first go, which obviously means the compounds used in manufacture are still on the wire. Hopefully GalliumSource will send out clean. Maybe you can confirm with vendors which type they have before purchase. I'll know on Monday or Tuesday.
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
My Ti wire does glow red, it all depends what temp I have it set to. I have seen it glow with temps as low as the 300 ' s depending on what I have built on it...
I never thought about that much until now. Maybe there is something wrong with my device?
When I press the button to fire it takes about two seconds for the dab to start producing vapor and then I start pulling, it most vapes it all but sometimes I will find residual oil on the deck.
I have a segeli 75w, yes.
2clicker
Observer
looking forward to hearing about your wire.
here is a pic of the coil build...
My Ti wire does glow red, it all depends what temp I have it set to. I have seen it glow with temps as low as the 300 ' s depending on what I have built on it...
I never thought about that much until now. Maybe there is something wrong with my device?
When I press the button to fire it takes about two seconds for the dab to start producing vapor and then I start pulling, it most vapes it all but sometimes I will find residual oil on the deck.
I have a segeli 75w, yes.
thanks for the pic of the build. looks good, but i am stumped how your are getting glowing coils on your device in TC mode. IMO this should not be happening. in fact that is part of the reason for TC. to eliminate your coils from getting too hot. and glowing red is way too hot.
how long have you had the device? i would ask the vendor if you can exchange it. glowing at 300F does not sound right to me.
gladthaturaglide
Active Member
Hey guys, finally got all of my supplies in the mail. Got a stumpy clone, bunch of Ti wire and fc-2000's. Right now i only have a TC mod that will support nickel and I'm broke as shit for now so I'll only be building with nickel for a couple weeks lol. Gave it a go last nighT. I had a spaced coil at about .175ohm 30g ni200 wire wrapped around the fc2000 and fire at about 27.5 joules at 420f. First dab got me very medicated and seemed to actually completely vaporize. There was little to no mess in the deck but there was very little cloud and muted flavor. The second and third dabs were almost just wastes in my opinion. It vaped but there was a ton of spillage and I think I'm back to the drawing board on this one. Not going to waste my whole supply in a sub par build. It just didn't seem to hold the dab at all really. I am thinking of trying the method I saw In This thread where two or three fc2000s are wrapped together between wire. Hopefully this will stop my massive spillage. I just want more cloud and flavor. I want to feel like I'm actually getting huge hit. I feel like I got better results from my seego disposable compared to what I got last night.
Also to the guy saying he can get his coils to glow red in TC.. Is it a dim red where you need to almost dim the lights or strain the eyes to see it? Or is like the entire coil glowing bright red like when you are building a micro coil with kanthal and trying to get the coils hot to pinch them and close any gaps?
When I first started messing with nickel I didn't realize that you had register the new coil on the device when the atomizer is completely room temp. I would register it at first and then quickly after hitting it a couple times re-register the coil when it was at a higher resistance, because it was raise after being hit a couple time. So what is a.065 coil I would register It On the device at .085 or whatever. I didn't realize this was completely killing the point of the temp control. I didn't do this often thank god, and I learned quick this is not how temp control works but I do remember being able to make my coils glow a dim red in the center when I would do this. The whole coil would never glow no matter what but the very center would start to glow a little if you fired it enough. I don't do this anymore. Haha.
I'm going to give this thread a re-read this weekend and try to figure out some type of build I can do with 28 or 30 g nickel wire to prevent so much spillage into the chamber. Any ideas or advice would be great. thanks guys. Happy Friday.
Also to the guy saying he can get his coils to glow red in TC.. Is it a dim red where you need to almost dim the lights or strain the eyes to see it? Or is like the entire coil glowing bright red like when you are building a micro coil with kanthal and trying to get the coils hot to pinch them and close any gaps?
When I first started messing with nickel I didn't realize that you had register the new coil on the device when the atomizer is completely room temp. I would register it at first and then quickly after hitting it a couple times re-register the coil when it was at a higher resistance, because it was raise after being hit a couple time. So what is a.065 coil I would register It On the device at .085 or whatever. I didn't realize this was completely killing the point of the temp control. I didn't do this often thank god, and I learned quick this is not how temp control works but I do remember being able to make my coils glow a dim red in the center when I would do this. The whole coil would never glow no matter what but the very center would start to glow a little if you fired it enough. I don't do this anymore. Haha.
I'm going to give this thread a re-read this weekend and try to figure out some type of build I can do with 28 or 30 g nickel wire to prevent so much spillage into the chamber. Any ideas or advice would be great. thanks guys. Happy Friday.
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
That is set to 410°f with 65w and a 6 second button press...normal?
Set to 350°f I get a 'low glow'
I have had the device for about a month and a half, I contacted the vendor (ecigaretteempire) and also will contact sigelei when they open...hopefully if it IS defective I can get it replaced!
What is the best tc box to get, just in case I have to replace this one?
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jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
My guess is that your Sigeili(sp?) is designed to do TC with Ni200 wire not Ti?, It(Ti) can work in Ni mode, with a temp offset. Regarding the Unkammen Supplies Ti gr1, I have read over in the e cig forums, that it is the best?, remember Ti is not typically shiny, a good iso rub, or I've heard of people washing wire with Dawn dish soap as well......
2clicker
Observer
yep. every time you install a new coil the mod must know so it does not assume youbare using the last coil. otherwise you are essentially tricking the chip inside your mod. and will get way inaccurate performance.
That is set to 410°f with 65w and a 6 second button press...normal?
Set to 350°f I get a 'low glow'
I have had the device for about a month and a half, I contacted the vendor (ecigaretteempire) and also will contact sigelei when they open...hopefully if it IS defective I can get it replaced!
What is the best tc box to get, just in case I have to replace this one?
not normal. have you reset the coil resistance on your mod? basically take it off, let it cool to room temp and re-install it. then set the resistance. if that isnt the problem then i would def look into a replacement. sounds like you may have a defective device. dont worry about finding another mod. lots of people are getting great performance from their sig 75w.
My guess is that your Sigeili(sp?) is designed to do TC with Ni200 wire not Ti?, It(Ti) can work in Ni mode, with a temp offset. Regarding the Unkammen Supplies Ti gr1, I have read over in the e cig forums, that it is the best?, remember Ti is not typically shiny, a good iso rub, or I've heard of people washing wire with Dawn dish soap as well......
the unkamen stuff is not the best. in fact dont use it. i cannot get mine clean enough. after soaking in ISO for over a week its still dirty as hell. i installed it and when i fired it... it off gassed like crazy. bad news.
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
Yea, I figured out the resetting resistance thing after getting weak performance the first week.
Ecigempire is giving me the run around.
Sigelei said they will replace, but it takes a week and I have to pay for shipping both ways (wtf??!?)
Interestingly they told me using ti wire could have messed up the chip because they state it's not designed for it...is there any truth to this?
2clicker
Observer
well i know lots of ecig users use Ti on their nickel designed TC device, but you have to drop the temp around 100 deg to get similar performance.
so whatever your favorite temp is with nickel wire... drop it 90-100 and then run Ti wire.
could this be your problem? if so then your device may be working properly.
regarding shipping both ways... seems to be the nature of the beast with these china mod mfgs.
Hyphy
Karma
Here's some inspiration for wickless coil ideas:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Coilporn/
Some crazy ones:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Coilporn/
Some crazy ones:
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
I was thinking that the temp difference was the reason they were glowing, but if you can get yours up to 600°f...mine shouldn't be glowing at 350!
Also it takes the dab about 2 seconds to start to vaporize...which is also weird because you guys are saying instant heat ups.
They do have a version coming out that boasts ti wire compatibility, maybe I should be thinking upgrade?
What atomizer are you going to stuff those in???
Here's some inspiration for wickless coil ideas:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Coilporn/
Some crazy ones:
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2clicker
Observer
Here's some inspiration for wickless coil ideas:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Coilporn/
Some crazy ones:
whos got time for that shit! lol
Detonator
Well-Known Member
so I want to try this again now with a tc device and fc2000 wicks....
I see the fc2000 wicks at kidney puncher - http://www.kidneypuncher.com/fc-2000-ceramic-wick-1-8th-3-pack/
and it says they are 1.75 in long...
So I was wondering if this is the best place to get them ,,, and How do I cut them into coil size pieces?
Does this work good with Nickle wire? or should I get Titanium?
I was not happy last time with kanthal and stainless mesh I didnt get good results..
I see the fc2000 wicks at kidney puncher - http://www.kidneypuncher.com/fc-2000-ceramic-wick-1-8th-3-pack/
and it says they are 1.75 in long...
So I was wondering if this is the best place to get them ,,, and How do I cut them into coil size pieces?
Does this work good with Nickle wire? or should I get Titanium?
I was not happy last time with kanthal and stainless mesh I didnt get good results..
2clicker
Observer
kidney puncher is a great place to order them from. and they simply break. it doesnt take much force to break them. nickel or Ti is your call. most here seem to be using Ti. there was a video posted a while back demonizing nickel wire and it sorta scared me off of it. then again any wire could be harmful we just really dont know. oh and i think Ti tastes better.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Gallium Source? The guy is very nice, and he deals in various metals, he's been around the block. But I didn't like the wire anywhere near as well as the Spider Silk. It was hard to clean, the thickness wasn't as constant. Spider Silk has a lot of drippy BS in the promo, like no acids used, as if that mattered, but they do deliver a clean and "to spec" wire.
@2clicker Whatever happened to the ceramic donuts, have they lost favor for some specific reason, or is it just harder to create a wick-reservoir with them, compared to wire weaves?
@2clicker Whatever happened to the ceramic donuts, have they lost favor for some specific reason, or is it just harder to create a wick-reservoir with them, compared to wire weaves?
