Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
fernand
Well-Known Member
It sort of looks like the Kraken, not exactly, but yes it's definitely a Genesis type. I use 2 rolled stainless steel 400 mesh wicks in mine. They always use vertical wicks and make powerful clouds with glycerin ejuice. The VG wicks well up the SS tube. It could work with ejmix'd c-juice. If you have the funds to work with many ml of wasted c-juice. My complaint with the Kraken is that it leaks like a mofo if given ANY opportunity.
Regarding nickel coil and chest pain, no idea. It happens so far only with huge lung hits off that one clone Stillare RDA with the copper screws. Maybe just the only atty I have with such lung hits.
Regarding nickel coil and chest pain, no idea. It happens so far only with huge lung hits off that one clone Stillare RDA with the copper screws. Maybe just the only atty I have with such lung hits.
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ArchVape
Princess of the Biscotti Republic
The only thing I worry about with copper and brass is glyco corrosive. But no resouce or test done on it becuase every ejuice company react differntly. And the problem his not show up in community yet.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/copper-and-e-liquid.288096/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/how-do-you-feel-about-copper-in-contact-with-your-ejuice-is-it-safe.161259/
http://www.ecigadvanced.com/forums/general-vaping-discussion-f12/copper-eliquid-t9956.html
10% of the world population his a nickel allergy 1 out 10. One of reason TC/TP is heading over to tit and the new stainless steel 316L and 317L hallow wires. The hallow SS 316L his a TCR rating of .001. Nickel is .006 tit .004-.003. NO TC chip as of right now can see it yet. Need better nickel Purity setting in TC mods to read SS right. Very Soon!
http://www.vapordna.com/UD-Stainless-Steel-316L-Wire-30-Feet-p/ud316l.htm
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/copper-and-e-liquid.288096/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/how-do-you-feel-about-copper-in-contact-with-your-ejuice-is-it-safe.161259/
http://www.ecigadvanced.com/forums/general-vaping-discussion-f12/copper-eliquid-t9956.html
10% of the world population his a nickel allergy 1 out 10. One of reason TC/TP is heading over to tit and the new stainless steel 316L and 317L hallow wires. The hallow SS 316L his a TCR rating of .001. Nickel is .006 tit .004-.003. NO TC chip as of right now can see it yet. Need better nickel Purity setting in TC mods to read SS right. Very Soon!
http://www.vapordna.com/UD-Stainless-Steel-316L-Wire-30-Feet-p/ud316l.htm
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fernand
Well-Known Member
@ArchVape what do you mean "glyco corrosive"? I'm having trouble understanding your post. I guess you're saying that stainless steel, once the TC chips can read its temperature coefficient, will be a safer material?
In relation to erl, we have very specialized needs on small volumes of a "liquid" which is not perfectly handled by Kanthal and standard mods, so trying TC Nickel builds makes a lot of sense.
My problem wasn't with erl, it was with VG e-juice. I'm testing everything with VG first. And I'm just wondering what happened.
For the mainstream VP/PG vapers Kanthal in a decent watt-regulating mod works just fine. And we have a lot of experience with Kanthal, it's probably reasonably safe. For me, given how much of my 95% VG-based juice I vape every day, and given how well say a Mini VF works with kanthal on a buck/boost mod, I'm wondering if taking any chances with more exotic metals is even worth risking in that context.
The one vape that was striking me as so WOW it was worth trying riskier materials is a Rebuildable Dripper with VG juice and Nickel coil(s) on a TC mod. The monster clouds and the way you can't burn the wick is SO COOL. That's why I was sucking lung on the Stillare 1.5 clone with a nickel coil and the copper screws.
I have never had the lung pain reaction I had with that Tobeco Stillare clone, and it wasn't suggestion or illusion, my left lung was killing me. I spent $$ on diagnostics. The chest Xray was negative. Cardiograms negative. Blood work negative. Treadmill test negative. It wasn't the heart. And nobody knows what it was. It went away as soon as I stopped lung hittin' on that RDA. When I tried that RDA again, the pain started coming back.
Frankly, I've been a bit out of the loop this last year with respect to new Tox findings with Vaping. I just saw a documentary on AlJazeeraAmerica, and they panned Vaping something terrible. A whole series of innuendo I'd already heard, like Formaldehyde, unreliable nic levels, etc, but the one thing I haven't seen the "research" on was the heavy metal particle allegations. Anybody got a good reference on that subject?
In relation to erl, we have very specialized needs on small volumes of a "liquid" which is not perfectly handled by Kanthal and standard mods, so trying TC Nickel builds makes a lot of sense.
My problem wasn't with erl, it was with VG e-juice. I'm testing everything with VG first. And I'm just wondering what happened.
For the mainstream VP/PG vapers Kanthal in a decent watt-regulating mod works just fine. And we have a lot of experience with Kanthal, it's probably reasonably safe. For me, given how much of my 95% VG-based juice I vape every day, and given how well say a Mini VF works with kanthal on a buck/boost mod, I'm wondering if taking any chances with more exotic metals is even worth risking in that context.
The one vape that was striking me as so WOW it was worth trying riskier materials is a Rebuildable Dripper with VG juice and Nickel coil(s) on a TC mod. The monster clouds and the way you can't burn the wick is SO COOL. That's why I was sucking lung on the Stillare 1.5 clone with a nickel coil and the copper screws.
I have never had the lung pain reaction I had with that Tobeco Stillare clone, and it wasn't suggestion or illusion, my left lung was killing me. I spent $$ on diagnostics. The chest Xray was negative. Cardiograms negative. Blood work negative. Treadmill test negative. It wasn't the heart. And nobody knows what it was. It went away as soon as I stopped lung hittin' on that RDA. When I tried that RDA again, the pain started coming back.
Frankly, I've been a bit out of the loop this last year with respect to new Tox findings with Vaping. I just saw a documentary on AlJazeeraAmerica, and they panned Vaping something terrible. A whole series of innuendo I'd already heard, like Formaldehyde, unreliable nic levels, etc, but the one thing I haven't seen the "research" on was the heavy metal particle allegations. Anybody got a good reference on that subject?
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WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
Hi all, was wondering if this would be an adequate box to get for the purpose of (strong) dabs on the go...my brother has one that he wants to sell me, before I do I want to make sure I'm NOT getting something useless
https://m.fasttech.com/product/1918100-authentic-sigelei-100w-variable-wattage-apv-box
https://m.fasttech.com/product/1918100-authentic-sigelei-100w-variable-wattage-apv-box
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ArchVape
Princess of the Biscotti Republic
Glycol corrosion is when PG/VG contact with copper for long period of time. You should get some SS screws for the Stillare rda. I been vaping for 4years use to smoke cig for 20years. My lungs feel so much better. I no longer cough black shit every monring. Don't smell like shit. The only thing 100% I'm sure of, is that ecig are much safer then cigs, I'm proof. I didn't trust any reports when billions of USD tax money come into play. Every state is fighting to get senate bill pass to class ecig and ejuice as
tobacco product. Then they can tax the shit out of it. Thank God SB140 didnt pass last week in CA.
http://casaa.org/ Please add your testimonials. Weed/BHO vaporizers will also fall under this new class of tobacco products.
I find it funny that Cigars are not label as tobacco products and is not tax. It class as luxury good. The rich had to get their way.
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fernand
Well-Known Member
@ArchVape please don't misunderstand. I too quit 2 packs a day cigs 5 years ago thanks to vaping and feel a thousand times better. All the more reason I was surprised at the chest pains with the nickel coil on the Stillare clone with copper screws. I mentioned it here because we're testing new technologies for erl. Will in fact try SS screws. Thanks.
2clicker
Observer
sure thatll work great. just know it doesnt have temp control and if you lay on the button your coil will get hotter than you want it. you will want to "pulse" the button. after some use you will find how to operate it w/out burning your dabs. my vote is to set it at the lowest wattage setting until you find your sweet spot.
a temp control mod will keep your coils from getting that hot. makes more sense for dabbing, but a reg vv/vw device will work also.
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
Thanks! What type of rda is good? And coil build and type? I am a complete noob at this btw...will take to advice to a ecig shops to help get started if needed. Thanks for all your help too!
fernand
Well-Known Member
@WakeAndVape the issue frankly is that without temp control it's yesterday's news. Within a few weeks all the new mods will have Wattage and Temp control, and people will be dumping the oldies because you can do more with a smarter mod. You can use the better of the current TC crop in Wattage or Temp Control with no disadvantage. Besides, for vaping erl, you're not likely to be using 100 watt settings, it's just another battery to worry about. Honestly, I wouldn't touch an old Wattage mod with a ten dollar pole.
So it it just me or is this ni200 wire kinda wierd.
If you let this wire glow, does it then change all your power/temp settings?
Is the trick to glow first and see where it is at or just not ever let it glow?
After I let it glow, it would no longer make good vapor @570. Even at 600 it was weak. ?
If you let this wire glow, does it then change all your power/temp settings?
Is the trick to glow first and see where it is at or just not ever let it glow?
After I let it glow, it would no longer make good vapor @570. Even at 600 it was weak. ?
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
Do not let nickel wire glow!! It's not good for you!!
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
You are not supposed to let Ti glow either. I know they get the kanthal coils glowing but all I've read says not to get nickel or to wire red hot.
2clicker
Observer
honestly its not good for ANY wire to glow. how bad this stuff is for you is still debatable, but if you can eliminate it altogether why wouldnt you...?
@Joel W. sounds like by letting the Ni wire glow you are changing it somehow that limits its performance after. sorta like the dif between annealed vs tempered perhaps...? Ni and Ti are both meant to be used with temp control only. so neither should get so hot that they glow. if its glowing then the TC is not working properly. a glowing coil will burn cotton and that is the point of TC to begin with. to eliminate the burning.
@Joel W. sounds like by letting the Ni wire glow you are changing it somehow that limits its performance after. sorta like the dif between annealed vs tempered perhaps...? Ni and Ti are both meant to be used with temp control only. so neither should get so hot that they glow. if its glowing then the TC is not working properly. a glowing coil will burn cotton and that is the point of TC to begin with. to eliminate the burning.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Nickel is soft. It can be "tempered" to make it easier to work with in making coils.
We're used to dry burning Kanthal, that's different, since it can glow within the range of voltages we normally apply, or on a mech-mod, though when immersed in liquid it's kept cool.
The Nickel, Titanium and other wires that change resistance with temperature are not meant to be used on a mech-mod. They aren't supposed to be dry-burned, and there's some talk of toxicity, though it sounds very confused. I wouldn't heat them up like that without a lot more info, and they definitely change in many ways when you do. The tempered Nickel I got became permanently floppy soft after I tried a butane torch on a piece.
With e-juice the temps we use are definitely below the 536 F that glycerin decomposes to Acrolein at. It seems like 400 F is OK. With erl, the range of boiling points is from 246 to 482 F, with only a rather esoteric Flavonoid called Quercetin evaporating above 450, at 482 F. So there should be no need to ever go over 450-480.
BTW, I found this under $30 Temp Control mod with integral battery. It looks like a similar chip to what's on the Mini VF.
http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_193409.html
We're used to dry burning Kanthal, that's different, since it can glow within the range of voltages we normally apply, or on a mech-mod, though when immersed in liquid it's kept cool.
The Nickel, Titanium and other wires that change resistance with temperature are not meant to be used on a mech-mod. They aren't supposed to be dry-burned, and there's some talk of toxicity, though it sounds very confused. I wouldn't heat them up like that without a lot more info, and they definitely change in many ways when you do. The tempered Nickel I got became permanently floppy soft after I tried a butane torch on a piece.
With e-juice the temps we use are definitely below the 536 F that glycerin decomposes to Acrolein at. It seems like 400 F is OK. With erl, the range of boiling points is from 246 to 482 F, with only a rather esoteric Flavonoid called Quercetin evaporating above 450, at 482 F. So there should be no need to ever go over 450-480.
BTW, I found this under $30 Temp Control mod with integral battery. It looks like a similar chip to what's on the Mini VF.
http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_193409.html
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2clicker
Observer
looks like a rebranded eleaf
fernand
Well-Known Member
It sort of does. But there are enough differences that it can't be the same board. No idea which is better, all the little box mods now will have TC & WC. The Micro USB charging connector is accessed from the botton because it's wave-soldered to the board. They are all very fragile.
If Origin Vapes is stateside, I'd try them first.
I ordered a $55 Mini VF stateside on e-bay, only to discover the Arkansas location was an outright lie. I'm still waiting for it from China, there was no tracking info at first, and when it appeared it listed China Post. The SOB has the gall to tell me it's not here yet because it's in transit from China.
These operators claim to have the goods in the US, but they drop-ship from China. That practice really sux, may as well buy it cheaper from China.
If Origin Vapes is stateside, I'd try them first.
I ordered a $55 Mini VF stateside on e-bay, only to discover the Arkansas location was an outright lie. I'm still waiting for it from China, there was no tracking info at first, and when it appeared it listed China Post. The SOB has the gall to tell me it's not here yet because it's in transit from China.
These operators claim to have the goods in the US, but they drop-ship from China. That practice really sux, may as well buy it cheaper from China.
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MikeInMiami
Well-Known Member
I'm just waiting for the DNA200 to come out before I jump into the temp control game, then it's all downhill from there 
fernand
Well-Known Member
I'm curious why DNA200? The wattage or some other spec?
200 watts?? I can't imagine. I just tried to pulse my 1 ohm kanthal coil for a teeny fraction of a sec in WC mode at 50 watts and got a taste of waste, gas from the dragon's ass. That coil would have to be sitting at the bottom of a pool, otherwise I can't see 200 watts on anything but a demon barbecue for Armageddon
I figured under $40 may as well, and I'm glad I did. This isn't like a Rolls Royce ProVari LOL, the only one I'm gonna order. It's just another landfill gizmo. When I get to wherever I'm going, some archangel's gonna dump a HUGE burlap sack full of cruddy rusted chargers, dead batteries, shorted out atties, eGo carts, cracked clearomizers, spools of Kanthal, Nickel, Titanium, piles of tools, leaking half-empty juice bottles - ALL that junk, every little bit of it - and a booming voice will sound: "You wanted 'em, you got 'em, so FIX 'em or restore them to The Earth".
200 watts?? I can't imagine. I just tried to pulse my 1 ohm kanthal coil for a teeny fraction of a sec in WC mode at 50 watts and got a taste of waste, gas from the dragon's ass. That coil would have to be sitting at the bottom of a pool, otherwise I can't see 200 watts on anything but a demon barbecue for Armageddon
I figured under $40 may as well, and I'm glad I did. This isn't like a Rolls Royce ProVari LOL, the only one I'm gonna order. It's just another landfill gizmo. When I get to wherever I'm going, some archangel's gonna dump a HUGE burlap sack full of cruddy rusted chargers, dead batteries, shorted out atties, eGo carts, cracked clearomizers, spools of Kanthal, Nickel, Titanium, piles of tools, leaking half-empty juice bottles - ALL that junk, every little bit of it - and a booming voice will sound: "You wanted 'em, you got 'em, so FIX 'em or restore them to The Earth".
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The dual coil AC runs about .8 ohms and seems to work good on the Evic and most box mods with TC that I know of.
Most TC mods list temp control modes between .1 -1.0 ohms that I have seen so the AC is on the top end of that usable scale.