Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

[2clicker]

Very nice patina and very interesting to hear about the ti wire. Made myself a bucket coil the other day and it works very very very well. Heats up very slowly. 10 secs before i start noticing some redness in the bottom of the bucket.

Also have you seen this tip? 510 drip tip Glass Percolator

that drip tip is cool, but not sure id want in attached to my setup. is there a carb?

 

[Hashassin]

so i got my Ti wire yesterday. and i gotta say... im confused as shit about it! haha

basically i will need to keep testing before finding what works well. the resistance is lower than that of kanthal so a 28gauge Ti coil is considerably less resistance than a 28g kanthal coil.

also, something that sort of worries me... i made a couple of wickless coils of this stuff to see how it performed in regards to how fast it heats up. one of my test was to force hot spots and see how it reacted. it did NOT react well. basically the wire gets red hot VERY fast and oxidizes. the oxidation left behind is colorful. and it seems the color is determined by the temp. at first the wire turned a really nice blue. then i really let the coil have it and it was so bright red. when i let off the wire was yellow and brittle. upon removing the coil the wire easily broke and i noticed that the oxidation came flying off in powder form. def not something we want to be inhaling.

another thing i noticed was that the wire comes dirty with machine oils from manufacturing. the wire i bought def needs to be cleaned before vaping off of it. i plan on using ISO for a quick cleaning after i take a length off the spool.

i am not giving up yet. i did make a coil that i could not even get red hot. of which is appealing to me. the testing continues!

sorry i haven't been here much lately, i'm super busy. just caught up on most of the posts quickly.
i've done a lot of looking into certain things lately, titanium wire among them.

i'm holding off on using titanium anymore because of your exact issue....titanium dioxide, that weird white shit that forms during heating. it's carcinogenic in humans when inhaled and in lab mice causes other problems as well during testing. i don't have any reference links handy but even wikipedia lists ti02 health issues.

i'm not saying titanium is bad....and i still use ti wool for a wick sometimes, but i am holding off on purchasing any titanium wire for my builds until i see some more information on how it really stacks up for vape use. for now, i'm sticking with good ole kanthal. it isn't perfect, but it's pretty dern good.

now some people will say kanthal is bad for ya too because of the chromium, but my jigger pokery indicates my kanthal doesn't get hot enough to off-gas much chromium whereas we can visibly see a layer of titanium oxide building on the wire.

nice patina by the way, i like the effect you got. how ya liking that derringer? mine should be here any day now. i have a slow trickle of packages that hopefully will start arriving today or tomorrow. china likes to delay my packages forever though so we'll see.

i really need to get a dremel and some ceramic blocks. the rba available that have ceramic decks or cups are disappointing. i'm just gonna carve out my own to fit into some rba i like for other reasons but lack the ceramic i want to insulate everything and contain the splatter/drip of the errl. i have been giving it a lot of thought lately. just need to scrape up the spare cash and sadly i don't have the tools laying around.

 

[MuushuPork]

Hey guys! Just wondering if someone wanted to suggest a basic set-up for dabbing once in a while when I go on a driving trip with the wife. I use an Aspire K1 and a Vision spinner mini 2 with ejmix for portable/stealth. What I'd like is something for a beginner who most likely will never need to use it outside of a hotel room every few months, also I don't want to invest to much just to find out if I will like it. I use an enano and a fc-710 with ss wool for dabbing at home and just want a simple portable desktop alternative. I guess if I could get a video link I would be able to figure it all out though. I am a visual/kinetic learner. Anyway thanks guys!!!

 

[2clicker]

sorry i haven't been here much lately, i'm super busy. just caught up on most of the posts quickly.
i've done a lot of looking into certain things lately, titanium wire among them.

i'm holding off on using titanium anymore because of your exact issue....titanium dioxide, that weird white shit that forms during heating. it's carcinogenic in humans when inhaled and in lab mice causes other problems as well during testing. i don't have any reference links handy but even wikipedia lists ti02 health issues.

i'm not saying titanium is bad....and i still use ti wool for a wick sometimes, but i am holding off on purchasing any titanium wire for my builds until i see some more information on how it really stacks up for vape use. for now, i'm sticking with good ole kanthal. it isn't perfect, but it's pretty dern good.

now some people will say kanthal is bad for ya too because of the chromium, but my jigger pokery indicates my kanthal doesn't get hot enough to off-gas much chromium whereas we can visibly see a layer of titanium oxide building on the wire.

nice patina by the way, i like the effect you got. how ya liking that derringer? mine should be here any day now. i have a slow trickle of packages that hopefully will start arriving today or tomorrow. china likes to delay my packages forever though so we'll see.

i really need to get a dremel and some ceramic blocks. the rba available that have ceramic decks or cups are disappointing. i'm just gonna carve out my own to fit into some rba i like for other reasons but lack the ceramic i want to insulate everything and contain the splatter/drip of the errl. i have been giving it a lot of thought lately. just need to scrape up the spare cash and sadly i don't have the tools laying around.

from what i have read... Ti wire is the safest wire we can use. i do find the oxidation a bit concerning though. i can say that if the wire does not get super red hot, that no oxidation is visible.

also, kanthal oxidizes as well. just because you cant see it doesnt mean its not there. i have read that any wire, if allowed to glow red hot, is producing harmful stuff.

i need to do more research on it. would love to get some more in depth discussion on the subject here on FC. maybe start a new thread for it...?

 

[Hashassin]

i'm well aware kanthal oxidizes, but unlike the ti02 the oxidation off kanthal isn't a known carcinogen. it isn't about whether or not i can see it, it's about its toxicity. could it be bad? yeah but i haven't seen anything to indicate it is thus far. in fact i oxidize all of my coils that use SS mesh as wick to prevent shorts using a torch.

i oxidize most of the rest of them too but that's just a side effect of torching to temper the wire a bit.

i've never actually noticed white oxidation on the one atty i had titanium wire in personally. (kiss 2 ti cart)
my friend broke it after having it for less than a week though.
i've seen it on ti nails but just scrubbed it off and didn't worry much at the time.

yeah i'd be down for a thread on wire/metal safety.
if ya start one please pm me and point me to it. i'm not on a lot lately and might miss it otherwise.

 

[2clicker]

this is exactly why we need that thread started. ive got some ecig heads telling me that any oxidation, even from kanthal, is bad. how bad remains to be seen, but they claim bad news.

i would start the thread myself, but im not sure im a good fit as i am far from an expert on the subject.

where are all of our scientists at?

oh and btw.. @Hashassin... i LOVE the derringer. it has small negatives, but so far its my fave to date. flavor is amazing in this little thing. i have also just started playing with a CapItAll Rogue RDA and its damn nice also.

 

[Hashassin]

hehe, got my derringer a few hours ago. first impressions have me really happy with it. first build is a .5 ohm parallel coil of 3 twisted strands of 30 awg. just about the right size to take advantage of the single airflow opened all the way up. could have positioned it better but i was all excited and didn't take my time, wound up with legs too short too adjust it much. i'm getting a pleasing blend of cloud size and density with flavor, and i'm feeling pretty comfortable with the draw i get airflow wise.

i'm no expert on wire/metals either but i'm learning a lot. i'm a pretty heavy vape enthusiast and i spend a lot of time fine tuning my experience. wire is something i'm getting deeper into, partially because so many friends of mine express health concerns both in the cannabis and ecig worlds. hardly a day goes by i don't get an email or have an in person conversation about some new concern over vape safety.

minimizing health risk is certainly of interest to me, cuz i vape a LOT and intend to forever or until something better comes along. i'm definitely done with smoking. i'll eat the stuff before i smoke it.

 

[assman]

I've been stalking this thread for a while. conveniently I've actually got a derringer sitting around I don't use much and ive just placed my order for some readyxwick 2mm. Couple questions:

1.What gauge kanthal are you feeding through the readyxwick?
2. How many full wraps /turns does the stove top coil have and what resistance does that equate to.
3. Do you think their would be enough room in the derringer to do a stacked dual stove top coil on the single coil side of the deck? thinking this may be the best for massive rips and minimal waste.

Thanks guys!

 

[assman]

Looking at the derringer you would almost have to put one stove top coil floating above the deck and towards the single coil side then one directly below to to make it fit. I dont think their is enough height on this rda to make it work.

@2clicker mind sharing or linking to a write up on how you forced that petina? Looks amazing.

 

[2clicker]

I've been stalking this thread for a while. conveniently I've actually got a derringer sitting around I don't use much and ive just placed my order for some readyxwick 2mm. Couple questions:

1.What gauge kanthal are you feeding through the readyxwick?
2. How many full wraps /turns does the stove top coil have and what resistance does that equate to.
3. Do you think their would be enough room in the derringer to do a stacked dual stove top coil on the single coil side of the deck? thinking this may be the best for massive rips and minimal waste.

Thanks guys!

you can use any gauge wire you want. thicker wire is easier to work with. i find 28 to be my ideal gauge, but have been playing with some 26 lately. anyway, there is no correct wire size for a stovetop or DBC. nor is there a correct amount of wraps. experiment with both and find what works best for you. i find my DBCs to have about 2 full wraps making it about 3/8" in diameter.

and yes you could do dual stovetops on one side of the derringer. it would be a tight fit, but could be done w/out much hassle i would think. they stovetops would have to be on the small-med size tho.

regarding the patina... i basically just googled "how to patina copper" and read like the first five links. all basically saying the same thing. its pretty easy to do. i plan on trying it some more.

 

[jpdnkstr]

All this wire talk..... has anyone tried Ni-200(nickle) wire? I just received my roll of Ni-200 26awg, built a 8-9 3mm wrap (estimated), in my Subtank mini RBA, came in at .077 Ohms. I'm just beginning to experiment with temp protection on my new SX mini m class, but am confident that this will be a game changer(at least for e-juice) I haven't tried this set up with extracts yet but I will as soon as my other RDA arrives.... Quick question.... my SX mini maxs at 580 F, should this be hot enough for BHO, I know some of the e nails are set around 700 F.

 

[Puffers]

All this wire talk..... has anyone tried Ni-200(nickle) wire? I just received my roll of Ni-200 26awg, built a 8-9 3mm wrap (estimated), in my Subtank mini RBA, came in at .077 Ohms. I'm just beginning to experiment with temp protection on my new SX mini m class, but am confident that this will be a game changer(at least for e-juice) I haven't tried this set up with extracts yet but I will as soon as my other RDA arrives.... Quick question.... my SX mini maxs at 580 F, should this be hot enough for BHO, I know some of the e nails are set around 700 F.

I think that should be more then enough for an oil rda. I think some of the e-nails run higher to compensate for thermal mass and the big ol honkin helmet go-pro'd YouTube style dabs. I see some guys settin their e-nails in the 550ish range for normal sized lower temp dabs.

 

[jpdnkstr]

Preliminary testing with Ni-200 is going well, Temp protection seems to work with BHO, I need to implement some SS mesh, maybe a second coil... Need my larger deck to get here.

 

[2clicker]

Preliminary testing with Ni-200 is going well, Temp protection seems to work with BHO, I need to implement some SS mesh, maybe a second coil... Need my larger deck to get here.

temp control seems like a great feature. i just cant pony up the cost for one. the pricing on them is out of control.

i was going to get a temp controlled piece, but i prefer the simplicity of mech mods are ideal for me. not a lot can go wrong with a mech.

i do expect to see temp controlled devices cloned and prices dropped soon tho.

 

[negan]

They have already been cloned, but not sure now well they work. If you can solder, it is pretty simple to build one using a chip. I got the chip authentic for $60 and the hana modz box clone for $24 IIRC and it came with everything you need (wires, buttons, etc). Save even more cash and get a project box and buttons yourself. If you go with the hana box clone, I would get a different 510 as the one that comes with the kit is pretty jank.

Preliminary testing with Ni-200 is going well, Temp protection seems to work with BHO, I need to implement some SS mesh, maybe a second coil... Need my larger deck to get here.

I doubt you'll get ni and ss mesh to play well together. I have tried and it just doesn't work well with the dna temp circuit. Even just having contact coils seems to give issues. You might be able to do that one build where the mesh is wrapped around the wire (like a clapton) and then space your wraps so they aren't touching.

 

[2clicker]

They have already been cloned, but not sure now well they work. If you can solder, it is pretty simple to build one using a chip. I got the chip authentic for $60 and the hana modz box clone for $24 IIRC and it came with everything you need (wires, buttons, etc). Save even more cash and get a project box and buttons yourself. If you go with the hana box clone, I would get a different 510 as the one that comes with the kit is pretty jank.



I doubt you'll get ni and ss mesh to play well together. I have tried and it just doesn't work well with the dna temp circuit. Even just having contact coils seems to give issues. You might be able to do that one build where the mesh is wrapped around the wire (like a clapton) and then space your wraps so they aren't touching.

yeah i know they have been cloned... well some have. im a stickler for small device. none of the small options i was looking at have been cloned yet.

i know i could mod something together, but with the proper resisted coil... i really dont NEED it ya know?

ill be interested when they can make a temp control module for mechs... something like the kick, bit for temp control. otherwise ill keep waiting for my ideal box mod. havent seen it yet tho.

 

[jpdnkstr]

Rolled up some SS mesh...(not sure of size, I believe 50 micron,150 mesh?, old BHO screen).. torched it to oxidize, slid through a .089 Ohm, 9-10 wrap approx 3mm Ni-200(26awg) coil on my Igo-W(small deck) set temp control to 550F, power output to 25 joules(SX Mini m-class)... Loaded approx .07g BHO onto coil/SS mesh by pulsing power, once soaked in...BLAST OFF! No burnt taste, huge cloud, exquisite flavor, enough for 2 puffs... then... dry coil warning(this is a good thing, it means reload!)

Yihi hit it out of the park with the SX-350J(chip in the mod) which is also available solo(for all you modders)

Disclaimer: I am in no way, shape or form affiliated with Yihi... but I know a good vape device when I see one, FC is the reason I stopped smoking(everything), and like to share good findings! This is one nice mod for anything that is 510 threaded.

 

[2clicker]

Rolled up some SS mesh...(not sure of size, I believe 50 micron,150 mesh?, old BHO screen).. torched it to oxidize, slid through a .089 Ohm, 9-10 wrap approx 3mm Ni-200(26awg) coil on my Igo-W(small deck) set temp control to 550F, power output to 25 joules(SX Mini m-class)... Loaded approx .07g BHO onto coil/SS mesh by pulsing power, once soaked in...BLAST OFF! No burnt taste, huge cloud, exquisite flavor, enough for 2 puffs... then... dry coil warning(this is a good thing, it means reload!)

Yihi hit it out of the park with the SX-350J(chip in the mod) which is also available solo(for all you modders)

Disclaimer: I am in no way, shape or form affiliated with Yihi... but I know a good vape device when I see one, FC is the reason I stopped smoking(everything), and like to share good findings! This is one nice mod for anything that is 510 threaded.

man i have tried SS mesh quite a few times and get the nastiest taste from it... yet i read online every now and then that others are getting great flavor off of it... what gives?

 

[djshew12]

temp control seems like a great feature. i just cant pony up the cost for one. the pricing on them is out of control.

i was going to get a temp controlled piece, but i prefer the simplicity of mech mods are ideal for me. not a lot can go wrong with a mech.

i do expect to see temp controlled devices cloned and prices dropped soon tho.

What do you guys think about these?
DNA 40 Box with Temp Protection
I've ordered from this site before (couple months ago). Fast shipping (to Midwest) and the derringer and smpl mod clones I got were superb!

 

[jpdnkstr]

man i have tried SS mesh quite a few times and get the nastiest taste from it... yet i read online every now and then that others are getting great flavor off of it... what gives?

I'm not sure, as this is the very first time working with it for this purpose. Time will tell, but so far so good today.

 

[2clicker]

What do you guys think about these?
DNA 40 Box with Temp Protection
I've ordered from this site before (couple months ago). Fast shipping (to Midwest) and the derringer and smpl mod clones I got were superb!

well it seems like a nice device. just too large for my liking. im used to my Prime mod and derringer of which is 20mm x 100mm. a very short setup in 18650 mode. there are some really small box mods available, but none with temp control. they are just VV/VW.

and yes focalecig is a great vendor. great selection and great service.

 

[Procit]

Hey, so I made a few adjustments to an Aspire Atlantis cartomizer, and loaded it with ejuice made from dissolved CO2 extract. 1g + 1.5-2 mL ejmix = 1 full reload. The only downside I can possibly think of with this design is everything getting clogged. Only time will tell since I've been using this setup for only 2 days.

For Atlantis modifications, I took the air flow selector ring off, and I removed the factory coils and put in my own. It now functions like a single-coil RTA, and functions much better than the stovetop coil for dabs. Each reload lasts for 100+ hits, and it takes around 3 draws to get the same effect as a dab. I also flavored it with strawberry since the oil isn't that great quality and tastes slightly burned.

For dissolving the concentrate, I use EJMix which is a blend of mainly PEG 400 with some PEG 200, 300, and PG. Apparently the viscosity and density of PEG 400 is ideal for dissolving concentrates. They recommend to heat the concentrate up, but I've been using purged oils which dissolve within 5 minutes of mixing at room temperature.
http://www.amazon.com/Bloomsdays-EJmix-50ml/dp/B00HG01FI8
(As a side-note, there was a lot of propaganda against polyethylene glycol when vaping was starting to gain popularity, citing that it is used in anti-freeze. It is true, but that's like saying there is sodium in certain poisons, and in excess quantities, can have adverse effects on the body. Studies were shown that the amount needed to cause any harm is like chugging a bottle of the stuff.)

 

[2clicker]

so i have decided to test the vv/vw waters before jumping fully into Temp Control. i have decided to get myself a clouper mini. this thing is tiny, and allows for quick battery changes.

my plan is that if i like what it does, and plan to go TC, that i will buy the new Yihi chip ($80) and transplant it into the clouper mini box.

anyway, for those of you using a vv/vw device... what exactly are you doing to the coil when regulating wattage and voltage? are you keeping it from receiving a certain amount of power resulting in the coil only getting so hot? or are you just slowing down the time it takes for the coil to get red hot?

can i use a vv/vw (not TC) device to keep my coils from getting red hot?

sorry for the newb question. i have zero vv/vw experience.

EDIT***. so i ordered the cloupor mini in black and a silicone skin in grey. the mini is shipping from WA so hopefully will arrive by Wed/Thurs. the skin is coming from china so who knows.

im really hoping the adjustability of this mod will produce the results i am after.

pics and review to come

 

[215z]

Sorry guys, i've been so busy dealing with taxes. Hopefully I can post something useful tomorrow with lots of photographs. I have 24ga gr1 28ga gr1 30ga gr1 evolve dna40L in the house. 30g is working great on my mech mods BUT the wire is brittle as hell. I have popped all the test 30ga and 28ga coils i've built so far, either by dry burning or manipulating the coil physically. Fucking pisses me off. I am NOT getting the white powder residue other people are talking about. My coils have that "motorcycle exhaust titanium patina" look to it. I'm starting all my work with the mech mods because I am hoping to stick with mech mods. That said, once I'm done helping people file taxes it is going to be DNA40 testing time. I am very excited. Sorry for the lack of punctuation and paragraphic delimitation.

edit: @2clicker with VW there is no way to prevent your coils from glowing red, other than using a thermal sink. like, stuff your coil with cotton soaked with water, and your coils won't go far past 212F until the wick starts to dry out. I take it you want to test your coils without any thermal sink, like we would with a d-nail. Not possible with Ti/Ni/Al(kanthal) wire. PTC ceramic elements are inherently TC'd via voltage, so you could heat them with a VV device, without them glowing red. But those aren't the "coils" you are thinking of. Sorry I can't be of more help. I am not an EE but I am shocked that nobody has come up with a solid state analog power supply where the power is cut when the circuit reaches a certain resistance. It would cost alot less than this Evolve board and will be far more reliable. I have some Cloupor non-TC devices gathering dust in the closet, I would have sent you one to play with if I had known what was on your mind.

edit2: I'm going to snort lines of TiO AlO CrO NiO and FeO until you guys start the metal safety thread. i get plenty of shit at ECF on account of my titanium fetish.

 

[2clicker]

Sorry guys, i've been so busy dealing with taxes. Hopefully I can post something useful tomorrow with lots of photographs. I have 24ga gr1 28ga gr1 30ga gr1 evolve dna40L in the house. 30g is working great on my mech mods BUT the wire is brittle as hell. I have popped all the test 30ga and 28ga coils i've built so far, either by dry burning or manipulating the coil physically. Fucking pisses me off. I am NOT getting the white powder residue other people are talking about. My coils have that "motorcycle exhaust titanium patina" look to it. I'm starting all my work with the mech mods because I am hoping to stick with mech mods. That said, once I'm done helping people file taxes it is going to be DNA40 testing time. I am very excited. Sorry for the lack of punctuation and paragraphic delimitation.

edit: @2clicker with VW there is no way to prevent your coils from glowing red, other than using a thermal sink. like, stuff your coil with cotton soaked with water, and your coils won't go far past 212F until the wick starts to dry out. I take it you want to test your coils without any thermal sink, like we would with a d-nail. Not possible with Ti/Ni/Al(kanthal) wire. PTC ceramic elements are inherently TC'd via voltage, so you could heat them with a VV device, without them glowing red. But those aren't the "coils" you are thinking of. Sorry I can't be of more help. I am not an EE but I am shocked that nobody has come up with a solid state analog power supply where the power is cut when the circuit reaches a certain resistance. It would cost alot less than this Evolve board and will be far more reliable. I have some Cloupor non-TC devices gathering dust in the closet, I would have sent you one to play with if I had known what was on your mind.

edit2: I'm going to snort lines of TiO AlO CrO NiO and FeO until you guys start the metal safety thread. i get plenty of shit at ECF on account of my titanium fetish.

so if lowering the wattage doesnt keep it cooler, would lowering the voltage do that? wouldnt that lower the wattage output at the coil? basically i just want to slow down the "ramp up" time.

i got the 30w device (cant see myself ever wanting to use anything higher than 10w personally, but i am thinking about a TC device and wanted to play with an adjustable device first.

my plan is to transplant the new Yihi board into this cloupor mini when im ready.

then ill likely be using nickel wire.