Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
That's a clean, simple build. For all of the imaginative coils discussed in this thread, you really can't go wrong with thirsty wire.
Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
That's a clean, simple build. For all of the imaginative coils discussed in this thread, you really can't go wrong with thirsty wire.
Edgedamage
Well-Known Member
Yes seeing how claptions soak up three to four, drops of eliquid they are perfect for concentrate. I use a rice grain size piece, pulse the fire button and watch it soak into the wire. When taking a hit I fire at 11 watts and release the fire button when I start to taste the hit. Its straight to the point no torches nothing. Cleaning is easy I glow the wire a dull red around 20 watts, and dip the coil in running water or a glass of water. The pics I posted are not fresh builds, each has been used about five times each.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Thought they were fresh - do you clean after each dab? Kanthal?
Fused claptons seem to be one of the most popular wires among vapers. Have you tried aliens?
Still working up to the Mohawk alien wire. In the meantime, liking vertebraid. It's child's play to make (not figuratively), and the larger spaces plus 3D shape work well with concentrate.
Inspired this high-performance topless build with with first vertebraid. A 0.3 Ohm tangle of 30G SS316L that ramps up very quickly and evenly. Soaking in with gentle 200F pulses works as well as complicated tops without sacrificing flavor. (Maybe a stove-top in parallel for cold-loading.
)
Try this, it's fun! Don't saw off your fingertips.
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Edgedamage
Well-Known Member
Yes I clean after each dab, it takes a few seconds and its always ready. I used to wind my own fused captions, but this misslabled wire for under $7. Can't be beat: https://www.fasttech.com/products/4581506Thought they were fresh - do you clean after each dab? Kanthal?
Fused claptons seem to be one of the most popular wires among vapers. Have you tried aliens?
Still working up to the Mohawk alien wire. In the meantime, liking vertebraid. It's child's play to make (not figuratively), and the larger spaces plus 3D shape work well with concentrate.
Inspired this high-performance topless build with with first vertebraid. A 0.3 Ohm tangle of 30G SS316L that ramps up very quickly and evenly. Soaking in with gentle 200F pulses works as well as complicated tops without sacrificing flavor. (Maybe a stove-top in parallel for cold-loading.
Try this, it's fun! Don't saw off your fingertips.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Had been getting pre-built 316L from Advanced Vape Supply but am beginning to DIY.
Dragon skin. Clapton 32G around 22G. De-core, stretch 2X and thread with 26G. Twist three lengths together and spiral to create scale effect.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Have to try this dragon skin as wickless squonker for nic juice. Very slow heat up and cool down.
Just found this - the holy grail. Parallel Mohawk aliens (might try mounting vertically as dual build). Tantalizing. You have to get it in one shot.
Just found this - the holy grail. Parallel Mohawk aliens (might try mounting vertically as dual build). Tantalizing. You have to get it in one shot.
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Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Forgive excitement (and triple-post). 
Such pretty colors from first successfully built, wrapped, mounted and fired coil.
Don't like "Mohawk" alien - the three cores are stacked instead of flat. They're wrapped with a stretched, de-cored clapton. Maybe relaxed alien?
Got this short stretch with last of 100' 36G. Prep is excruciating. Clamping the drill to the table helped. The loose, de-cored clapton twists, creating tension and potential tangles as you go. But you can't stop (or even move, really) to fix it. Ooh - maybe a cord managing product.
Such pretty colors from first successfully built, wrapped, mounted and fired coil.
Don't like "Mohawk" alien - the three cores are stacked instead of flat. They're wrapped with a stretched, de-cored clapton. Maybe relaxed alien?
Got this short stretch with last of 100' 36G. Prep is excruciating. Clamping the drill to the table helped. The loose, de-cored clapton twists, creating tension and potential tangles as you go. But you can't stop (or even move, really) to fix it. Ooh - maybe a cord managing product.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
What's everybody up to?
At last, an inception coil wrapped with Mohawk alien wire.
A top performer. Still can't get a decent parallel chimney build. They fire easily, but aren't especially pretty or easy to use.
The wire above uses 34G instead of 36G, easier to work with and less fragile. Maybe a little slower ramp-up.
Also using the micro coils wick-less for nic juice with the squonk mod. The Mowhawk wire holds enough juice for three or four drags between squonks. Gonna try it with this stove top in the mesh. (Not very pretty - freehand with second-rate wire, but should still soak up the juice.
Next up: dual-core stitched, alien Mohawk (hopefully, a more forgiving wire to build.) Also, staggered fused claptons. Wanna try it with three cores in a triangle.
LuckySeed777
Well-Known Member
Great thread. I'm really new to ecigs but want to step up from my pen style that doesn't work well. The ccell cart works fine, it's just the battery. I'll be making ejuice using ejmix and rosin or qwet for the time being so I'd probably use a tank until I feel a bit more comfortable building my own coils.
I was looking for recommendations on a good but inexpensive box mod and the best place to buy it?
I was looking for recommendations on a good but inexpensive box mod and the best place to buy it?
just_the_flu
they say im crazy but i have a good time
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Couldn't find these pre-made in all SS, so learned yet another frivolous skill. It's a fun and therapeutic activity.
Tonight's effort.
Squalien (square alien) wire, four sides instead of three: 28gx4/38g + 44g. Seriously soaks up the shatter.
Happy to drop a coil in the post for you, PM.
Love the EHPro Fusion Mod. This is part of an unusual kit paired with an independently regulated, two-chambered RDTA (featured a few pages back). It temp regulates almost anything, and it's easy to use. If you want features and programability, maybe a DNA. Don't have a preferred vendor.
Keep in mind, most of these are one hitters. It can be a dab-sized hit, but then you need to reload.
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Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
coil game has improved @Accept
Thanks! Shouldn't have resisted for so long.
Have you done much with ribbon wire? Haven't tried yet. Seems like it might gunk up too quickly.
Glow shot of a squalienception coil.
Also, started a thread with zero interest on the other forum.
EDIT: Getting down-voted on coilporn for mentioning shatter!
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I have been using this setup for a long time now I didnt know there where this many people doing this as well. New to this site.
I have 24 gauge fuse Clapton 5 wrap around 3mm rod in my velocity rda. I folded over ss mesh and clamped it in between the forth wrap to create a cup like coil. the junk you see in the rda is from 4-5 grams of use.
I have 24 gauge fuse Clapton 5 wrap around 3mm rod in my velocity rda. I folded over ss mesh and clamped it in between the forth wrap to create a cup like coil. the junk you see in the rda is from 4-5 grams of use.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Welcome aboard, @DMBVapes! Need some new ideas to steal. Can't see your pics.
Not much new to report. Set up glass and SiC nail to taste new shatter, but like this method better. Mohawks and squaliens work great and aren't that difficult once you get the hang of it.
Tried a couple of parallel Mohawk builds, but these aren't worth the considerable effort. Very difficult to wrap.
Definitely have not got the hang of ribbon builds. So, bought some 316L fraliens from KP. Re-wrapped one to get this Dali-esque creation.
Doesn't TC, sort of pulses. Might need to adjust the TCR. The other fralien is soaking up nic juice and is a remarkably flavorful vape.
Not much new to report. Set up glass and SiC nail to taste new shatter, but like this method better. Mohawks and squaliens work great and aren't that difficult once you get the hang of it.
Tried a couple of parallel Mohawk builds, but these aren't worth the considerable effort. Very difficult to wrap.
Definitely have not got the hang of ribbon builds. So, bought some 316L fraliens from KP. Re-wrapped one to get this Dali-esque creation.
Doesn't TC, sort of pulses. Might need to adjust the TCR. The other fralien is soaking up nic juice and is a remarkably flavorful vape.
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Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pics! Do you oxidize the screen? You might not need it. Never lose concentrate with vertical builds, but use mainly bottom airflow.
@2clicker recommended TC, and you can get great flavor at low temps.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Been working on optimizing loading for new, single-dose, 25 mg shatter BBs.
Mohawk inception coils work great, but wrapping the coils point inward works even better. They're triangular and usually wrapped on a flat side with a point sticking up (like a Mohawk). To get the point inward, wrap around a #2 wood screw. Then, twist the wire 1/3 and wrap the outer coil normally. This makes a nice deep well at the top for loading.
Also, been using 26 g to wrap the alien (with 36 g) and 28 g for the cores to produces a more pronounced "S" shape with more metal on the outside. To compensate for the larger alien core, it needs to be stretched a little less.
The result is a very effective coil that couldn't be easier to load.
Mohawk inception coils work great, but wrapping the coils point inward works even better. They're triangular and usually wrapped on a flat side with a point sticking up (like a Mohawk). To get the point inward, wrap around a #2 wood screw. Then, twist the wire 1/3 and wrap the outer coil normally. This makes a nice deep well at the top for loading.
Also, been using 26 g to wrap the alien (with 36 g) and 28 g for the cores to produces a more pronounced "S" shape with more metal on the outside. To compensate for the larger alien core, it needs to be stretched a little less.
The result is a very effective coil that couldn't be easier to load.
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Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Thanks, @Vapology! The best video is the one already posted, above. It's a long, live build where you can really learn what's going on.
Mohawk alien wire is actually the easiest type of alien wire, especially with a stitch (also demonstrated in the video). Alien is a type of clapton, with an extra step. First, you make some regular clapton. Then, you de-core that clapton and stretch it like a spring. This stretched clapton is what you use to fuse your cores, creating a wavy effect.
Mohawk is basically an accident that sometimes happens when your're trying to make flat tri-core alien wire with an under-stretched clapton - the cores collapse into a triangle. While not the best for nic juice, it works especially well with inception coils and shatter. Some just think it look cool.
You already know how to wrap inception coils. Considered making a tutorial for WeedTube, but don't have much of a studio.
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Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
To reply to @Vapology more substantively...
Been working on alien tsukas. Not yet ready for prime time.
Find ribbon wire difficult to work with. This is rectangular wire, generally 0.1 mm thick and up to 0.8 mm wide.
A tsuka can be like the Mohawks above, except the regular clapton in the first step is wrapped with ribbon wire. 0.1 mm x 0.2 mm is easiest.
The very end of first tsuka Mohawk attempt. The Mohawk is the middle pattern. The pattern on the left is a regular alien. The pattern on the right is useless - probably the result of under-stretching the tsuka decore.
This one had enough Mohawk to get two wraps.
Which pattern is tighter? This one has a stitch that could be getting in the way, but not sure. Have to try again without.
This is how it goes with this ridiculous hobby. A little more each day, until you get enough to work with.
For e-juice, ribbon wire can be stacked, like the fralien above or the simpler framed staple (without the alien). These builds produce remarkably dense, flavorful clouds, and so far, work well with shatter. Haven't mastered these, but Advanced Vape Supply now offers perfect framed staple wire by the spool at ~$1/ft.
Still, framed staples are flat, but like 3D wire for shatter. Maybe a cube of ribbon wrapped in a tsuka?
Been working on alien tsukas. Not yet ready for prime time.
Find ribbon wire difficult to work with. This is rectangular wire, generally 0.1 mm thick and up to 0.8 mm wide.
A tsuka can be like the Mohawks above, except the regular clapton in the first step is wrapped with ribbon wire. 0.1 mm x 0.2 mm is easiest.
The very end of first tsuka Mohawk attempt. The Mohawk is the middle pattern. The pattern on the left is a regular alien. The pattern on the right is useless - probably the result of under-stretching the tsuka decore.
This one had enough Mohawk to get two wraps.
Which pattern is tighter? This one has a stitch that could be getting in the way, but not sure. Have to try again without.
This is how it goes with this ridiculous hobby. A little more each day, until you get enough to work with.
For e-juice, ribbon wire can be stacked, like the fralien above or the simpler framed staple (without the alien). These builds produce remarkably dense, flavorful clouds, and so far, work well with shatter. Haven't mastered these, but Advanced Vape Supply now offers perfect framed staple wire by the spool at ~$1/ft.
Still, framed staples are flat, but like 3D wire for shatter. Maybe a cube of ribbon wrapped in a tsuka?
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You guys got me thinking ... how about making the cup out of pyrex? It is very resistant to fast, big heat variations and could have thinner walls which heat up faster. It could either be cylindrical or have a bottom hemisphere if you were to cut off the upper part of a test tube. The curved one is best but it might not be that easy to find it unless someone is making pyrex test tubes. Then you wrap one continuous winding from the top all the way down to the bottom of your tube and then make it conform to the bottom hemisphere by hand winding it ito the right shape.
That arrangement will make it easy to heat the liquid evenly avoiding any hotspots that might scorch it. Then the second issue is how to figure out the optimal heating current. That is an age old engineering problem that has been solved. However, its really a lot easier to figure it out empirically. A candy thermometer should work for sure. After all, it only needs to be accurate to within 5 deg. C. Mount the mod, your test heater and the candy thermometer on some kind of a vertical rack so you can lower the candy thermometer into the tube without it touching the sides. Add a bit of baby oil to cover the probe tip and simulate the hmp oil (don't want to be experimenting around with $100 per gram oils just yet!!!).Then you set up your mod to ramp up from low power to high power over 3-4 seconds. Then you tinker with the mod settings until you get it to ramp up to the target temperature with minimal overshooting. You might have to wait a few seconds for the thermal mass of the tube and oil to get up to temp. because you and your rig, like everyone else, are subject to the laws of physics. Then the steady state temp of the mod at the end of the ramp is your hold temperature. How fast you can get it to ramp up depends on the weight of the tube, its contents and the efficiency of your coil and of the thermal coupling between the coil and pyrex. It might be a great idea to then try this with a bit of PG and actually inhaling it. That way you won't be getting too out of it to complete the procedure. LOL. If that works, it's off to the races!
Good luck! It is great to see some people searching for the perfect solution. I wish I had more time or I'd tinker with it myself.
That arrangement will make it easy to heat the liquid evenly avoiding any hotspots that might scorch it. Then the second issue is how to figure out the optimal heating current. That is an age old engineering problem that has been solved. However, its really a lot easier to figure it out empirically. A candy thermometer should work for sure. After all, it only needs to be accurate to within 5 deg. C. Mount the mod, your test heater and the candy thermometer on some kind of a vertical rack so you can lower the candy thermometer into the tube without it touching the sides. Add a bit of baby oil to cover the probe tip and simulate the hmp oil (don't want to be experimenting around with $100 per gram oils just yet!!!).Then you set up your mod to ramp up from low power to high power over 3-4 seconds. Then you tinker with the mod settings until you get it to ramp up to the target temperature with minimal overshooting. You might have to wait a few seconds for the thermal mass of the tube and oil to get up to temp. because you and your rig, like everyone else, are subject to the laws of physics. Then the steady state temp of the mod at the end of the ramp is your hold temperature. How fast you can get it to ramp up depends on the weight of the tube, its contents and the efficiency of your coil and of the thermal coupling between the coil and pyrex. It might be a great idea to then try this with a bit of PG and actually inhaling it. That way you won't be getting too out of it to complete the procedure. LOL. If that works, it's off to the races!
Good luck! It is great to see some people searching for the perfect solution. I wish I had more time or I'd tinker with it myself.
