Boden
Aspie polymath
Only thing I’ve noticed is I get really high.
Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Precisely!
2clicker
Observer
i like to have the option of sipping as well and cranking her up. wire builds and ceramic donuts can provide this.
@Accept you should be able to get the large high temp rip from a donut also. maybe not as fast as straight wire, but the difference cant be much. your tolerance must be really high if traditional dab temps do not medicate you. ive done a nice job of keeping my tolerance down despite only using concentrates for the most part.
my goal is to build a rig that can provide a flavorful sipper when called for, a high temp mind melter when called for, as well as a uptemp champ when called for. all should be attainable with wire or a donut. and no my low temp dabs dont have me coughing much unless they are looooong pulls. but like @Boden stated, hige rips are quite the waste. i tend to only desire those when ive been drinking. i prefer more smaller sips, absorbing more goodies, versus one giant rip where meds are exhaled and wasted. but i know that my rig is also capable of it if needed. thats my goal. idk i just dont get the pain you are trying to minimize.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
The "pain" is just the foul taste of this trim sap. Don't want to taste it, so just crank it up. It's not a huge rip ~15mg weak concentrate - and easier than a dab. When flavorful shatter from flower is available again, will switch back to TC.
Hoped T-break would have more of an effect. Afterward, first day or two were better, but already back up to pre-break dose.
Boden
Aspie polymath
Next time decarb the trim before making the concentrate. Makes a world of difference.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Sounds good, thanks. Also curing it this time.
Boden
Aspie polymath
Decomposing the chlorophyll in the trim during decarb will get rid of the funk.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Will try that with some freeze-dried fan leaves. Such healthy leaves - couldn't throw them away.
The new, simplified design with clapton wire. Just a level 2 with a loose wrap in the center for loading. Uses less wire, heats up faster, and eliminates spatter as well as the stove-top cap. A snap to wrap.
The new, simplified design with clapton wire. Just a level 2 with a loose wrap in the center for loading. Uses less wire, heats up faster, and eliminates spatter as well as the stove-top cap. A snap to wrap.
Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
one hitter quitter!
After some delay due to other vape projects, I got around to mounting one of these inception coils that Accept had sent over to me to try out in my RDA. I started with the level 3 coil
My glow shot. It's actually kinda tough to capture a good shot of this
So my overall impression agrees with Accept's general intended use and goal with these coils:
And it does that indeed, although I think I newbed it up in a couple of ways that could have improved my inception coil experience, but it certainly specializes in destroying small loads in a single pull
I wanted to use these coils in TC mode to avoid burning and to get the best taste from these coils, and that is possible, although Accept told me I might have to use a higher TCR # maybe 2x the default TC-SS setting, so I used TCR 200 with (meager) 35w and 380F for the first load...it vaped up the small dab super effectively, but my settings were too hot and burned the dab too
That was my bad for starting with a hotter setting instead of a more conservative setting, which goes against all common sense and my own experience with other atomizers in trying to tune in a good flavor / cloud balance 
(start low first, then go up 
)
The too-hot hit didn't help the flavor to start, so I burned the coil clean and tried again in TC-SS mode, and I was able to vape up small dabs again, 15-20mg or so, pretty much in one puff, with mere residual dribble puff for a second puff, and then burn it clean to repeat. At this point, I couldn't escape the metallic after-taste, though. It wasn't a huge after-taste, I was still tasting my concentrate more, but it's something I'm not really used to; I haven't used metal coils in a while, and this taste is absent on my familiar donuts
The other way I might have newbed it up is the random choice of this "obelisk" RDA to mount the level 3 inception coil. These coils are rather big and tall, and the big bulky posts on this RDA get in the way and make it difficult to mount properly. It seems this RDA is intended for more traditional, horizontally laying coils. I probably would have been much better off trying something post-less, like the VVM, pulse, meshpro, or several other possible RDAs.
It was a hassle to get it mounted in there right. I actually had to remove the positive post from the rda and mount the leads into the posts from the bottom then re-assemble it and secure the negative wire, because putting the inception coil's leads into the posts from the top (as intended on this RDA) made the whole thing too tall to clear the cap and drip tip.
Upon initial installing, I had to correct the coil for "hot spots" several times. (Because of my harsh installation probably) They look like little hot red-orange spots where the inner and outer coils contact (which they shouldn't) and you correct with ceramic tweezers, separating the unwanted contact. After moving & poking around at the coil several times, I finally observed the even, faint red glow in watts mode
And even when dry-hitting the clean coil after making it glow, i observed no taste at all, nothing metallic
That's weird that I notice a metal taste when I dab off it then. I wonder if this could have been avoided if I didn't use the higher TCR / temp by mistake when I started? Or would this off-taste be inevitable as I burn-off the coil to clean the residual gunk after a session anyways?
So now, I'm considering getting a better post-less RDA to try this again, I still have a fresh level 2 coil Accept sent me to try out too. I should be able to use this level 3 coil as-is still, but at what point should you discard the coil? What should I look for? Used motor oil color? I know it's just a bit of wire, but for all the effort into wrapping it, and my unnecessary trouble in mounting it, it's a shame it shouldn't be able to serve a bunch more sessions
Getting more familiar with the donuts there, that's weird that you're still having issues with both your mods randomly dropping into VW mode though. Are you not locking the coil resistance? On the DNA mod, are you using pre-set modes for TCR, or TFR mode, because that could make all the difference. I don't think there is a pre-set for NiCr, so if you use Ni mode, for example, it may work sometimes with an inaccurate temp #, but it could be finicky?
Even a custom-made, well-tuned TFR profile has been shown to be not much more accurate than TCR mode, and using a TFR profile requires much more effort and tuning. Even if you download someone else's .csv file, if the cold/base resistance of your donut is not the same as the other persons', you have to adjust all the values, negating the ease of just swapping in someone else's profile? (I think so, right?)
Have you tried just entering your own values on regular TCR mode on the DNA mod? None of the pre-sets are a close match, and with the high resolution and sensitivity of the mod, it could be more prone to dump to watts mode when the NiCr/alumina donut isn't acting like the Ni metal coil you're telling the mod it is
(lies)
As for the evic with stock FW, I don't know why it's acting weird still too. Just TC-Ni mode? Not using your own TCR #? I'm surprised you still haven't tried to put myevic/tubomyevic/AF on that mod. I know you don't hold the joyetech in much high regard, but those firmwares have helped alot in taming the weird TC behavior of some ceramic atty's like the DT dry herb atty. You can load 2 of those FWs even with your mac, it's pretty easy compared to escribe, worth a try
Nice solution with your tubing and RDA cap for your V3 body, but now I know why you were having problems with the ceramic top fitting too tight and rubbing and making that annoying noise.... black V3!
The black version certainly looks cool, and just looks right and matches the darker color on many mods, but the black ceramic version is the lesser version of the V3. I've found the fit to be much more reliable with the white V3s, plus the black ones are more brittle and prone to breakage. You have to be more careful when tightening the screws on the black V3 which can break / crack more easily compared to the white. And of 4 or 5 blacks V3s I use, the top caps on 1 or 2 do fit too tight and make that weird noise sometimes, while none of my white caps fit too tight. Not trying to be "DTV3 racist" here 
but the black additive they put to color the ceramic on the V3s compromises its strength somewhat It's been noted by others too
Interesting, so you made something pretty effective? Should taken some pics of this!
Perhaps the relatively smaller size and thin walls of the ceramic cup helped you? But the little divets and bumps and posts inside the cup will make your clean up not as convenient as a true flat, sealed cup. But maybe those bottom air holes also helped you produce vapor without a directional, top-airflow cap too? 
Way to go, maybe you could be a potential fan of the QQ as well if you like this experiment? You can also try to "source" other sealed cups to try out. They can be called "crucible cups" and you can find them in alumina and quartz, they are used in lab equipment.
After some delay due to other vape projects, I got around to mounting one of these inception coils that Accept had sent over to me to try out in my RDA. I started with the level 3 coil
My glow shot. It's actually kinda tough to capture a good shot of this
So my overall impression agrees with Accept's general intended use and goal with these coils:
And it does that indeed, although I think I newbed it up in a couple of ways that could have improved my inception coil experience, but it certainly specializes in destroying small loads in a single pull
I wanted to use these coils in TC mode to avoid burning and to get the best taste from these coils, and that is possible, although Accept told me I might have to use a higher TCR # maybe 2x the default TC-SS setting, so I used TCR 200 with (meager) 35w and 380F for the first load...it vaped up the small dab super effectively, but my settings were too hot and burned the dab too
That was my bad for starting with a hotter setting instead of a more conservative setting, which goes against all common sense and my own experience with other atomizers in trying to tune in a good flavor / cloud balance (start low first, then go up )The too-hot hit didn't help the flavor to start, so I burned the coil clean and tried again in TC-SS mode, and I was able to vape up small dabs again, 15-20mg or so, pretty much in one puff, with mere residual dribble puff for a second puff, and then burn it clean to repeat. At this point, I couldn't escape the metallic after-taste, though.
It wasn't a huge after-taste, I was still tasting my concentrate more, but it's something I'm not really used to; I haven't used metal coils in a while, and this taste is absent on my familiar donutsThe other way I might have newbed it up is the random choice of this "obelisk" RDA to mount the level 3 inception coil. These coils are rather big and tall, and the big bulky posts on this RDA get in the way and make it difficult to mount properly. It seems this RDA is intended for more traditional, horizontally laying coils. I probably would have been much better off trying something post-less, like the VVM, pulse, meshpro, or several other possible RDAs.
It was a hassle to get it mounted in there right. I actually had to remove the positive post from the rda and mount the leads into the posts from the bottom then re-assemble it and secure the negative wire, because putting the inception coil's leads into the posts from the top (as intended on this RDA) made the whole thing too tall to clear the cap and drip tip.
Upon initial installing, I had to correct the coil for "hot spots" several times. (Because of my harsh installation probably) They look like little hot red-orange spots where the inner and outer coils contact (which they shouldn't) and you correct with ceramic tweezers, separating the unwanted contact. After moving & poking around at the coil several times, I finally observed the even, faint red glow in watts mode
And even when dry-hitting the clean coil after making it glow, i observed no taste at all, nothing metallic
That's weird that I notice a metal taste when I dab off it then. I wonder if this could have been avoided if I didn't use the higher TCR / temp by mistake when I started? Or would this off-taste be inevitable as I burn-off the coil to clean the residual gunk after a session anyways? So now, I'm considering getting a better post-less RDA to try this again, I still have a fresh level 2 coil Accept sent me to try out too. I should be able to use this level 3 coil as-is still, but at what point should you discard the coil? What should I look for? Used motor oil color? I know it's just a bit of wire, but for all the effort into wrapping it, and my unnecessary trouble in mounting it, it's a shame it shouldn't be able to serve a bunch more sessions
Getting more familiar with the donuts there, that's weird that you're still having issues with both your mods randomly dropping into VW mode though. Are you not locking the coil resistance? On the DNA mod, are you using pre-set modes for TCR, or TFR mode, because that could make all the difference. I don't think there is a pre-set for NiCr, so if you use Ni mode, for example, it may work sometimes with an inaccurate temp #, but it could be finicky?
Even a custom-made, well-tuned TFR profile has been shown to be not much more accurate than TCR mode, and using a TFR profile requires much more effort and tuning. Even if you download someone else's .csv file, if the cold/base resistance of your donut is not the same as the other persons', you have to adjust all the values, negating the ease of just swapping in someone else's profile? (I think so, right?)
Have you tried just entering your own values on regular TCR mode on the DNA mod? None of the pre-sets are a close match, and with the high resolution and sensitivity of the mod, it could be more prone to dump to watts mode when the NiCr/alumina donut isn't acting like the Ni metal coil you're telling the mod it is
(lies)As for the evic with stock FW, I don't know why it's acting weird still too. Just TC-Ni mode? Not using your own TCR #? I'm surprised you still haven't tried to put myevic/tubomyevic/AF on that mod. I know you don't hold the joyetech in much high regard, but those firmwares have helped alot in taming the weird TC behavior of some ceramic atty's like the DT dry herb atty. You can load 2 of those FWs even with your mac, it's pretty easy compared to escribe, worth a try
Nice solution with your tubing and RDA cap for your V3 body, but now I know why you were having problems with the ceramic top fitting too tight and rubbing and making that annoying noise.... black V3!
The black version certainly looks cool, and just looks right and matches the darker color on many mods, but the black ceramic version is the lesser version of the V3.
I've found the fit to be much more reliable with the white V3s, plus the black ones are more brittle and prone to breakage. You have to be more careful when tightening the screws on the black V3 which can break / crack more easily compared to the white. And of 4 or 5 blacks V3s I use, the top caps on 1 or 2 do fit too tight and make that weird noise sometimes, while none of my white caps fit too tight. Not trying to be "DTV3 racist" here but the black additive they put to color the ceramic on the V3s compromises its strength somewhat It's been noted by others tooInteresting, so you made something pretty effective? Should taken some pics of this!
Perhaps the relatively smaller size and thin walls of the ceramic cup helped you? But the little divets and bumps and posts inside the cup will make your clean up not as convenient as a true flat, sealed cup. But maybe those bottom air holes also helped you produce vapor without a directional, top-airflow cap too? Way to go, maybe you could be a potential fan of the QQ as well if you like this experiment? You can also try to "source" other sealed cups to try out. They can be called "crucible cups" and you can find them in alumina and quartz, they are used in lab equipment.
Last edited:
Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
The 13mm is a tighter fit in the cup with a much tighter gap. To see it the other way, the 10mm donut/cup gives you a better gap to scoop up oil in the side of the cup with a skinny dab too, which you can't really do on the 13mm donut/cup
The other small advantage of the 10mm donut is that it can warm up to temp a little quicker, needing fewer watts. But we're only talking a 2-3 second difference at most, so it's not much.
They both make pretty much the same quality of vapor and act largely the same, just on a slightly different scale.No. The source terra 2 is actually a single piece, sealed alumina cup (no holes on bottom) with solder and tungsten wires, IIRC. The cup is self-heated internally, just like the ceramic donuts if it had walls and no hole. It is not heated externally by a seperate ceramic or wire heater held underneath it, like the puffco+, the QQ, top-airflow Sai, or many other heated-bucked atomizers. This is the just the type of heater we want to make the ultimate ceramic concentrate atty, but the right packaging / airflow haven't been perfected yet.
Was looking for a pic of just the heater without the metal casing to show you how it has the leads soldered in for a single piece heater, couldn't find it but i have seen it
Absolutely, but without getting very high. The terpenes from the first hit of flavorful shatter from a ceramic donut are intense enough to produce coughing. Sometimes use a ceramic donut as a taster with a new batch of shatter.
The goal is to avoid choking, right? With inception coils on power mode, get phenomenal effects with no choking. Could aid absorption. This is touched upon in @Boden's Why is wasting vapor on YouTube reviews so popular? thread.
Been using power mode again with some barely vapable trim sap. Just tastes foul, otherwise fine. So, why not crank it up and minimize the pain?
Gotta prep for popcorn bud QWET.
I agree, the goal is to avoid choking for me as well. I think 2clicks was just colloquially trying to make a point that the donuts can produce plenty volume of vapor too, not just great flavor. This can be achieved with hotter (but well under combustion) temps and longer-duration puffs. I take 12-15 second puffs easily on my DTV3's thru my dab rigs, while I only need about 4-6 second puffs with an inception coil, by comparision. The inception coil doesn't seem to scale up / down in small increments, it seems. (not the intended purpose?) Not much use in lower-temp (sub-400F) hits, it's more like finding the sweet spot in TC mode for "1HQ" where it doesn't burn, or just use power mode on the inceptions.
Accept, have you tried out some of the larger 10mm and 13mm donuts for your testing in RDAs? Because it seems like your experience slants towards the older, little 7mm donuts. They're pretty much the same thing, qualitatively, but maybe the larger donuts can adjust your expectations for the amounts of vapor that donuts can produce? Sucks that you don't like the flavor of your concentrates right now
so I can see why you might favor the inception coils on power mode at the moment, but the donuts can be run at 450-500F+ hot in TC mode too, to "cover up" that taste you may not like. I think that's what 2clicks was implying.yea..that's what he meant?
I personally like to take long puffs on the donuts, 10-15 seconds or so thru the dab rig, (but usually 6-8 seconds dry, through the MP) Such long duration puffs seem un-necessary with the inception coil, so that's one advantage perhaps. Also, the donut can yield many more puffs on a small load, but usually only the first 2-4 puffs will taste good, with potentially many more bleh-standard tasting reclaim puffs after that, to vape the donut and cup clean and empty and ready to swab up. For some people, this may be effective & efficient use and enjoyable / tolerable, for other people this may be annoying and drawn out, so inception vs. donut can be two very different styles with their own pros and cons ![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
But... I don't see what's wrong with drawing big clouds or not holding it in for a minute?
I know opinions are formed on this, and no one is probably going to change anyone else's mind on the topic, but I thought there were studies that show that your lungs are pretty much going to absorb over 90% of whatever you inhale within 2 seconds of expanding?If you hold in your clouds, big or small, I can see how you may feel like you can taste your vapor more, especially if you recycle your vape, exhale/re-inhale, french-inhale it, etc. The vapor can spend more time contacting your mouth, tongue, tonsils, so perhaps you can taste it more, but are you getting more high off it? I don't think so, just getting more high off not breathing more air
Another thing to consider is that many people (like myself) have taken up vaping to stop smoking, and have foolishly incurred significant respiratory damage from years of smoking. For people like this, holding in your vapor or playing with it in your mouth is only going to induce you to choke and cough more and irritate your throat, it won't make you absorb more active compounds. Quite the opposite, it will harsh out your whole respiratories and make them less capable of absorbing subsequent clouds due to the inflammation caused by trying to hold in that cloud.
So that's great if you guys haven't messed your body up nearly that bad through smoking, and you still have the ability to play with your vape and enjoy it in ways I can't. But perhaps you can reconsider how much more active compounds you're inhaling and really making bioactive?
Also, if I'm taking 15 second long duration inhale puffs, plus a few more seconds to clear out the rig, doesn't that mean I'm holding in most of my vapor cloud for several seconds anyways?
Last edited:
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the review, @Vape Donkey 650! Seems fair and thorough.
Tellin' ya - spring for a Tokugawa. Post-less decks provide ample build space, but lack bottom airflow. If you want to get something cheap, noticed the Sapor V2 is going for about 10 USD. This is a velocity-style, two post deck - but with plenty of build space and top and side airflow. (Currently, use the Sapor's tall cap with the Tokugawa deck, focusing air on the coil from all directions).
No - ceramic donut experience is mostly with W9Tech's Alpha Centauri. Haven't experimented with ceramic donut heaters in RDAs - just that one-off ceramic cup build.
Next project is wrapping mohawk alien wire.
The coiling gizmo is just a hand drill (plus rods) - helped overcome wire building inertia. The mohawak alien wire looks doable - three cores in a triangle (instead of flat) wrapped with de-cored clapton. Imagine interlocking inception coil levels for maximum wicking.
Tellin' ya - spring for a Tokugawa. Post-less decks provide ample build space, but lack bottom airflow. If you want to get something cheap, noticed the Sapor V2 is going for about 10 USD. This is a velocity-style, two post deck - but with plenty of build space and top and side airflow. (Currently, use the Sapor's tall cap with the Tokugawa deck, focusing air on the coil from all directions).
No - ceramic donut experience is mostly with W9Tech's Alpha Centauri. Haven't experimented with ceramic donut heaters in RDAs - just that one-off ceramic cup build.
Next project is wrapping mohawk alien wire.
The coiling gizmo is just a hand drill (plus rods) - helped overcome wire building inertia. The mohawak alien wire looks doable - three cores in a triangle (instead of flat) wrapped with de-cored clapton. Imagine interlocking inception coil levels for maximum wicking.
2clicker
Observer
@Vape Donkey 650 no im not locking the coil resistance on the DNA. youre not supposed to use the ohms lock on a DNA device. they detect resistance constantly and know what the resistance of the coil is even when hot. Evolv only recomends using the ohms lock feature if you have a loose connection or questionable build. and that had me fucked up when i came from joyetech. i always remember joyetech recomending to lock the resistance to get accurate TC. whats strange tho is that now since upating my joyetech chips neither of them need to be locked to work like they used to. they seems to work similarly to the DNA in that regard. an update perhaps...?
so i have now found that the 13mm donut IS working well in Nickel and Titanium mode on my DNA. the reason the DNA didnt like them before was because i was attempting to run them in too low of a wattage. the resistance wasnt rising fast enough to TC it. after speaking with @KeroZen i upped the watts to 17-20 and can consistently TC the larger donuts and haven’t experienced it jump out of TC yet. the 10mm donuts however seem to need a less aggressive tfr curve and must be run in the .csv file i updated. yes you are correct that because the .csv file was for a Sai donut that it wouldnt match the DT donuts. but it wasnt far off! it produced whimpy vapor and great flavor, but just kept bubbling the oil on the donut. i was able to look at the curves for nickel and titanium and compare them to the curves for the Sai donut that was TCing. then i adjusted the Sai .csv file to be in between the different curves and found a sweet spot. again this works well for the 10mm donuts. its underpowered for the 13mm donuts. since im getting a decent vape from the nickel setting on the 13mm... and a slightly underpowered yet nice vape in the Ti setting... i should be able to creat a curve in between those two and realy dial it in. in short after learning how to make curves in Escribe this shit is cake.
as for upgrading my evics to a better firmware... i want to, but need a PC. just havent gotten around to it yet.
so the source terra two cup... can that coil be cannibalized to get the cup out? will it have leads on it? ill have to ask @nosmoking about how his experimenting went with it. how could this not work unless its an airflow issue?
and yeah i was completely thrown off guard by how well the V3 donut cup worked as a vaping surface. considering what @Accept has posted and some random reddit posts i remember reading. im def going to do more experimenting. my experience with the DT cup has me so damn curious. i didnt take a pic of the DT cup build because it wasnt pretty. lol. in fact it wasnt even wrapped around the cup as tight as i wanted. i wasnt sure if id get any vapor at all. but it sure did!
which leads me to ask... you mention being able to find crucible cups in alumina and quartz? ive done some googling and cant seem to find much. can you link me to some sources? PM is cool if need be.
so i have now found that the 13mm donut IS working well in Nickel and Titanium mode on my DNA. the reason the DNA didnt like them before was because i was attempting to run them in too low of a wattage. the resistance wasnt rising fast enough to TC it. after speaking with @KeroZen i upped the watts to 17-20 and can consistently TC the larger donuts and haven’t experienced it jump out of TC yet. the 10mm donuts however seem to need a less aggressive tfr curve and must be run in the .csv file i updated. yes you are correct that because the .csv file was for a Sai donut that it wouldnt match the DT donuts. but it wasnt far off! it produced whimpy vapor and great flavor, but just kept bubbling the oil on the donut. i was able to look at the curves for nickel and titanium and compare them to the curves for the Sai donut that was TCing. then i adjusted the Sai .csv file to be in between the different curves and found a sweet spot. again this works well for the 10mm donuts. its underpowered for the 13mm donuts. since im getting a decent vape from the nickel setting on the 13mm... and a slightly underpowered yet nice vape in the Ti setting... i should be able to creat a curve in between those two and realy dial it in. in short after learning how to make curves in Escribe this shit is cake.
as for upgrading my evics to a better firmware... i want to, but need a PC. just havent gotten around to it yet.
so the source terra two cup... can that coil be cannibalized to get the cup out? will it have leads on it? ill have to ask @nosmoking about how his experimenting went with it. how could this not work unless its an airflow issue?
and yeah i was completely thrown off guard by how well the V3 donut cup worked as a vaping surface. considering what @Accept has posted and some random reddit posts i remember reading. im def going to do more experimenting. my experience with the DT cup has me so damn curious. i didnt take a pic of the DT cup build because it wasnt pretty. lol. in fact it wasnt even wrapped around the cup as tight as i wanted. i wasnt sure if id get any vapor at all. but it sure did!
which leads me to ask... you mention being able to find crucible cups in alumina and quartz? ive done some googling and cant seem to find much. can you link me to some sources? PM is cool if need be.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Sorry to discourage based on limited experience. It makes sense that some ceramic heaters are better than others. If it can get to a high temp quickly without cracking, that's all you need. Need to try the bigger heaters.
Grams of tasty shatter purging - won't be long now. This hexane-brine washed oil is vile.
2clicker
Observer
here is something i came up with to see if i couldnt cool the vapor just a tad by forcing it out and around a disc just before it leaves the rda. similar to the splatter guard in the DTV3 except it isnt needed here as a splatter guard. although it sure works as one as you can see this driptip already had a splatter guard. anyway just somethin i threw together. the need comes from using the donuts in my mesh rdas. the distance is very short from the donut to your lips. and when vaping at higher temps i experienced some warm hits. warmer than i like. so i had a buddy make me a SS disc with a small hole in the center. the disc isnt polished, but it serves it purpose well. anyway i just used 2mm hardware and tap from my old Igo-W modding days. i tapped the hole in this cheap 810 drip tip. although securing it with nuts is best it stays in place only threaded into the dt. then just two nuts to space the disc just far enough away from the bottom of the driptip so that it wouldnt block the airflow obviously but also so that it didnt contact the roof of the cap. or the sides. the last pic is a bit hard to see exactly, but thats the disc sitting just off of the roof of the cap. the disc isnt a perfect circle, but its close. and it does indeed seem to cool the hotter dabs a bit. more testing is in order tho...
tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
Could you shoot me over those files for the 10mm donuts
for the Lavabox M , I LOVE this thing.
Having too much fun for an adult, lol.
Any setting for Bubble HasH & what coils to use?
I get great hits , but it starts to burn a little at the end.
So Glad I got the Newer Tech along with the Evic Two Mini
So great to compare & use for diff atty's.
2clicker
Observer
i can def shoot them over. PM me an email address and ill get it over tonight.
about your bubble... is it full melt? im not sure about using the donuts for bubble. maybe @Vape Donkey 650 can help with that...?
Pimpslapper
Well-Known Member
Can someone tell me if these vape juices made with concentrate stink when you vape them?
Or is it odorless?
Thanks!
Or is it odorless?
Thanks!
Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
Hey my bad on the delay here; you could use your donuts for vaping bubble hash, although that's not really the type of concentrate it's intended for. You're going to be left with more crusty, plant-y crumbs and junk left on your donut more quickly and easily even compared to cheap wax. But that doesn't mean you can't get some good hits out of it first, as you probably found out already?
You might want to use slightly lower temp throughout the sesh to avoid the burned-out taste at the end.Vapes intended for flowers are better for bubble hash, mixing it in with a bed of flower, instead of straight conduction, 510-style dabbing atomizers, IME, but they both can work!
(if you have any of that bubble left by now 
)here is something i came up with to see if i couldnt cool the vapor just a tad by forcing it out and around a disc just before it leaves the rda.
wow...pretty crafty. when you find a problem, you attack it!
wow, you were trying to use less than 17 watts on the 13mm donuts? That must have taken at least 5 or 6 seconds to reach temp, so much oil bubbling and potential splattering as it warms up!
Were you using OF's old settings for the v2.5? The fact that escribe was having problems controlling the donuts with low watts speaks poorly of that software to me,
I can run my donuts at whatever ridiculously low or high wattage I want on my joyetechs, and they won't slip from TC mode for that reason (in TCR mode)At 17-20 watts, (or less) were you also drawing on the MP right away after firing the button, or were you waiting a couple seconds or so for the donut to warm up to temp, then starting your draw?
Also, 2clicks, your earnestness and assiduousness in tuning in the donuts is admirable, but I must ask again, why TFR mode? Have you tried inputting your own TCR figures into the mod instead of using the pre-sets? Why not?
Maybe you must convert it in the escribe program to the original TCR formula, so TCR "200" might be 0.200 in the program, but you must be able to do this? It would be poor if you cannot.
I mention this because my own experience and every account I've read says that using the donuts on TCR mode can TC just as smoothly & accurately as TFR mode, without the need for .csv files or fine-tuning dozens of reference points. Also, when swapping out to different donuts with a different base resistance, your .csv file can be useless, if it starts at a different valve, and you must load multiple files / profiles because one donut is 0.484 and the other is 0.515?
Just use TCR mode with your own values and none of that matters! plug & play!You've got the energy to make a custom splash guard for your drip tip but still haven't tried dumping AF or myev on your evic? Cmon man!
The heaters from the source terra cup can be removed and used in another atty from what I've seen, but I haven't worked with it myself, you should talk more to nosmoking about that if you're still interested in that path.
As for the crucible cups, I had been watching fernand's project with the V2.5 donuts and cups since he really wanted to keep it clean, and it seemed like the concept worked out pretty well, although I didn't really share his original premise for the project; of the donut being to messy to use directly, (although I do want a heated ceramic cup still) so I wasn't inclined to replicate his setup.
Try amazon, ebay, etc and search for "alumina crucible cup" "alumina oxide crucible" "alumina ceramic cup" etc, any combination of those terms. This is one that fernand found that fits well on the v2.5 donut
This one is larger and maybe can fit well on the 10mm donut
It's a good idea to re-read some of those old posts about the crucible-cup insert on the DT thread if that idea still has your interest. You can easily realize this concept "out of the box" with the top-airflow sai atty today also, but who knows which "cup method" works better or is more cost effective?
Unfortunately it seems that fernand doesn't come around FC anymore to get some advice from him on this topic
Last edited:
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
In recent years, this thread has focused mainly on vaping straight oil rather than vape juices, but early on there was some overlap.
If by "stink", you mean smell like cannabis, then yes, IME. It smells either like terpenes or hash. Of course, it's possible to mask the smell.
Pimpslapper
Well-Known Member
2clicker
Observer
@Vape Donkey 650 Escribe and DNA isnt poor software/hardware. they are the standard by which all other brands model themselves after. yes even still. and time after time the feedback by those measuring all this shit show they are the most accurate. any shortcomings of using my device with these donuts is certainly on me and not the device or its capabilities. you should check one out for yourself sometime.
Escribe doesnt control anything. its simply the interface used to adjust the settings on the chip of which controls the temp. i just found that adjusting the TFR curves, which is the same as inputting TCR numbers, very easy. adjusting the .csv file isnt tedious at all as you make it sound. there is only one reference point that needs to be adjusted really. even if you adjusted multiple reference points it takes like 30 secs. if that. and yes just inputting the “.200” for the tcr “200” like you sai would work. orrr i can click on the reference point and drag it up or down to “.200” or any value. pretty sure im doing what you are asking about. just in a different way. the TCR values just equal dif TFR curves from what i gather. and im not using the presets anymore. i used them as a guide and have adjusted them.
all i know is that i have figured out how to TC these donuts perfectly and have been getting very good performance from them. and the 8 different profiles available on my DNA device allow me to switch to different settings in two button presses. ive got two settings for the 10mm donuts and two settings for 13mm donuts. then ive got a “dry burn” profile that is just wattage mode. finally the stock SS, Nickel, and Ti modes are still on there. i have found both the Nickel and Ti curves to work well with the 13mm donuts. the Ti being a tad low powered, but provided amazing flavor. so one of the settings i have for the 13mm donut is in between the stock Ti and Nickel curve and its fucking beautiful.
i do not see an advantage to simply using a TCR setting when changing between donut sizes like you imply. you still have to adjust the settings on the device when the new donut is installed right? with my DNA i can already have multiple .csv files loaded on different profiles and can switch between them in two button presses. i would think this is faster and easier than having to go into the TCR settings on a joyetech chip and having to input new values. more button presses and you have to remember the different numbers. if they were set up as profiles instead you wouldnt have to remember anything. its already set up and waiting for that lower or higher resisted donut. plug and play
i also noticed that my joyetech devices wouldnt kick out of TC when running 13mm donuts in less than 17watts. but instead of thinking that it’s superior to a device being kicked out id be willing to bet its because the joyetech chip isnt regulating properly. of which we know is the case by how they designed the chip to work. no other firmware is going to make the chip better in this regard. again though many people love their joyetech devices just like in enjoy mine and have for years now. its a great performer here and is easy to use.
all in all the only issues i was having was because i hadnt wrapped my head around it all properly. probably because i came from joyetech and using the DNA is a bit different.
as for why i havent upgraded my joyetech devices yet... well honestly i just havent found the need to. one of them is old af and on its last leg. so its my dry fire beater mod when i dont want to subject my other mods to dry firings. the other is the backup the wife uses when im not home. and i havent upgraded yet because i find the stock joyetech firmware to work just fine for the donuts. i may be able to tune it in a bit more, but im using the DNA 99% of the time so it just hasnt been needed. i have a forced life chaging event coming in April. in regards to my career. because of this my time is spread VERY thin right now. another reason why i havent messed with it. i may or may not ever mess with it. btw a buddy made that SS disc for me. took me 3 mins to attach it to that drip tip.
good looking out on the links and advice for locating cups. i swear its like this shit is a secret. i googled “alumina crucible cups” and like the top hit was a manufacturer. i inquired the price for 5 small cups. i dont remember the size exactly, but it was close to 10mm w x 5mm t or something like that. they came back with a $600 quote!!! for 5 small cups!!! im like wtf? how can these vape companies be offering these for so cheap? does it come down to purity? and thats why the mfg i reached out to was so expensive? they claimed to be like 99.8% pure. i assume crucible like this are meant for science purposes. i find it odd that its been sort of difficult to locate, but i havent exactly been putting much effort into it yet.
i did speak with @nosmoking and he was kind enough to send some cups my way. included was one of the sourcevapes powered cups, but there is no heater in the bottom of the cup! only the walls/sides of the cup have heat traces in them. i assume then that this cup would then sit ontop of a small donut in its intended use. to heat the floor of the cup, but as far as pulling it out and using it in an RDA this is a no go. i tried it. and when i tilted the device, to direct the oil onto the heated part of the cup walls, it vaped well. but it was a pita. and when not tilted your oil just sits in the bottom of the cup not vaping. IF THIS CUP HAD A HEATER BELOW THE FLOOR IT WOULD BE FUCKING AMAZING. airflow was not an issue in my VVM rda.
i also recieved other alumina cups in a few dif sizes as well as a quartz cup. when these cups arrived i had the flu. i was out for about 4-5 days. then been working on getting ready to work for myself. so i havent had time to experiment with the cups but its comin. i will be attempting to wrap them in wire with a stovetop under the cup. ive got some 9mm dowl rod that i think ill be making a jig from. that way its smaller than the 10mm cup and when the cupnis inserted it will hold it tightly.
even if this deosnt work i am really enjoying the DT donuts. quick cleanup really is essential. i would like to see 13mm donut with walls of its own. so like a powered cup, but the hole in the middle is still there and also has walls. the walls would be heated as well as the bottom. and the walls would allow the user to tilt the device while using and still have surface to vape from. so imagine the current 13mm donut with walls on the outside and inside. would swab clean so easily. just gotta make sure the bottom and walls are heated.
Escribe doesnt control anything. its simply the interface used to adjust the settings on the chip of which controls the temp. i just found that adjusting the TFR curves, which is the same as inputting TCR numbers, very easy. adjusting the .csv file isnt tedious at all as you make it sound. there is only one reference point that needs to be adjusted really. even if you adjusted multiple reference points it takes like 30 secs. if that. and yes just inputting the “.200” for the tcr “200” like you sai would work. orrr i can click on the reference point and drag it up or down to “.200” or any value. pretty sure im doing what you are asking about. just in a different way. the TCR values just equal dif TFR curves from what i gather. and im not using the presets anymore. i used them as a guide and have adjusted them.
all i know is that i have figured out how to TC these donuts perfectly and have been getting very good performance from them. and the 8 different profiles available on my DNA device allow me to switch to different settings in two button presses. ive got two settings for the 10mm donuts and two settings for 13mm donuts. then ive got a “dry burn” profile that is just wattage mode. finally the stock SS, Nickel, and Ti modes are still on there. i have found both the Nickel and Ti curves to work well with the 13mm donuts. the Ti being a tad low powered, but provided amazing flavor. so one of the settings i have for the 13mm donut is in between the stock Ti and Nickel curve and its fucking beautiful.
i do not see an advantage to simply using a TCR setting when changing between donut sizes like you imply. you still have to adjust the settings on the device when the new donut is installed right? with my DNA i can already have multiple .csv files loaded on different profiles and can switch between them in two button presses. i would think this is faster and easier than having to go into the TCR settings on a joyetech chip and having to input new values. more button presses and you have to remember the different numbers. if they were set up as profiles instead you wouldnt have to remember anything. its already set up and waiting for that lower or higher resisted donut. plug and play
i also noticed that my joyetech devices wouldnt kick out of TC when running 13mm donuts in less than 17watts. but instead of thinking that it’s superior to a device being kicked out id be willing to bet its because the joyetech chip isnt regulating properly. of which we know is the case by how they designed the chip to work. no other firmware is going to make the chip better in this regard. again though many people love their joyetech devices just like in enjoy mine and have for years now. its a great performer here and is easy to use.
all in all the only issues i was having was because i hadnt wrapped my head around it all properly. probably because i came from joyetech and using the DNA is a bit different.
as for why i havent upgraded my joyetech devices yet... well honestly i just havent found the need to. one of them is old af and on its last leg. so its my dry fire beater mod when i dont want to subject my other mods to dry firings. the other is the backup the wife uses when im not home. and i havent upgraded yet because i find the stock joyetech firmware to work just fine for the donuts. i may be able to tune it in a bit more, but im using the DNA 99% of the time so it just hasnt been needed. i have a forced life chaging event coming in April. in regards to my career. because of this my time is spread VERY thin right now. another reason why i havent messed with it. i may or may not ever mess with it. btw a buddy made that SS disc for me. took me 3 mins to attach it to that drip tip.
good looking out on the links and advice for locating cups. i swear its like this shit is a secret. i googled “alumina crucible cups” and like the top hit was a manufacturer. i inquired the price for 5 small cups. i dont remember the size exactly, but it was close to 10mm w x 5mm t or something like that. they came back with a $600 quote!!! for 5 small cups!!! im like wtf? how can these vape companies be offering these for so cheap? does it come down to purity? and thats why the mfg i reached out to was so expensive? they claimed to be like 99.8% pure. i assume crucible like this are meant for science purposes. i find it odd that its been sort of difficult to locate, but i havent exactly been putting much effort into it yet.
i did speak with @nosmoking and he was kind enough to send some cups my way. included was one of the sourcevapes powered cups, but there is no heater in the bottom of the cup! only the walls/sides of the cup have heat traces in them. i assume then that this cup would then sit ontop of a small donut in its intended use. to heat the floor of the cup, but as far as pulling it out and using it in an RDA this is a no go. i tried it. and when i tilted the device, to direct the oil onto the heated part of the cup walls, it vaped well. but it was a pita. and when not tilted your oil just sits in the bottom of the cup not vaping. IF THIS CUP HAD A HEATER BELOW THE FLOOR IT WOULD BE FUCKING AMAZING. airflow was not an issue in my VVM rda.
i also recieved other alumina cups in a few dif sizes as well as a quartz cup. when these cups arrived i had the flu. i was out for about 4-5 days. then been working on getting ready to work for myself. so i havent had time to experiment with the cups but its comin. i will be attempting to wrap them in wire with a stovetop under the cup. ive got some 9mm dowl rod that i think ill be making a jig from. that way its smaller than the 10mm cup and when the cupnis inserted it will hold it tightly.
even if this deosnt work i am really enjoying the DT donuts. quick cleanup really is essential. i would like to see 13mm donut with walls of its own. so like a powered cup, but the hole in the middle is still there and also has walls. the walls would be heated as well as the bottom. and the walls would allow the user to tilt the device while using and still have surface to vape from. so imagine the current 13mm donut with walls on the outside and inside. would swab clean so easily. just gotta make sure the bottom and walls are heated.
Last edited:
nosmoking
Just so Dab HAppy!
@2clicker I don't recall the Terra cup sitting on a donut. From what I remember that cup wired directly into the atomizer. The atomizer was small and SS so perhaps it created more residual heat in the Source atomizer but I never thought it worked that well. Probably just didn't notice at the time that it was because the floor was not heating as fast as the walls. I thought the entire cup heated honestly, but thinking back on the way it was built, I can see you being right. The walls do look a little different from the floor.
Alumina ceramic crucibles and other likes of crucibles are used in jewelry making. When I was looking, I found several places with pricing like you mentioned. I found only 2 places that make the small crucibles and sell them for cheap. They were both on ebay.
Honestly, the only LAYG big hitter that I could use more than once without tasting last sessions leftovers and without burning my material is the Puffco Plus. I have gone without it for 8-9 monthes now and have not filled the whole since. I am heavily considering going back to this pen for LAYG hits. My only problem with the Plus is/was that you can only load so much which makes the biggest hit still pretty small. It also makes every load a one hitter for me because I can never load enough to choke me out and have leftovers.
I believe 2018 is going to be huge for this thread. Soon us macro-dosers will have a slew of one-hitter quitters that are manufactured by vaporizer companies rather than all the DIY we see in this thread. As I said last year, the crucible design is where its at for concentrates. Puffco has really done well with their Peak design. @2clicker they have a removable ceramic cup that is 2x larger than the Terra cup and can be torched clean. They only heat it with a ceramic floor plate as far as I can tell. Eternal has already made and tested quartz inserts and Josh from CCA710 has already said he will be producing Sapphire and Obsidian crucibles for the Peak. Then there is the Dr.Dabber Switch which also appears to have a SiC option as well others. I realize these are not pens in shape or size, however in form and function they are. The Peak really is just a glorified wax pen. Take the atomizer out and build a pen around it and your done son! Not sure about the switch yet as there is a lack of info out there, but if it is like the Dr. Dabber portable erigs then it shouldn't be anything more than another atomizer sitting on a fancy proprietary battery case.
Alumina ceramic crucibles and other likes of crucibles are used in jewelry making. When I was looking, I found several places with pricing like you mentioned. I found only 2 places that make the small crucibles and sell them for cheap. They were both on ebay.
Honestly, the only LAYG big hitter that I could use more than once without tasting last sessions leftovers and without burning my material is the Puffco Plus. I have gone without it for 8-9 monthes now and have not filled the whole since. I am heavily considering going back to this pen for LAYG hits. My only problem with the Plus is/was that you can only load so much which makes the biggest hit still pretty small. It also makes every load a one hitter for me because I can never load enough to choke me out and have leftovers.
I believe 2018 is going to be huge for this thread. Soon us macro-dosers will have a slew of one-hitter quitters that are manufactured by vaporizer companies rather than all the DIY we see in this thread. As I said last year, the crucible design is where its at for concentrates. Puffco has really done well with their Peak design. @2clicker they have a removable ceramic cup that is 2x larger than the Terra cup and can be torched clean. They only heat it with a ceramic floor plate as far as I can tell. Eternal has already made and tested quartz inserts and Josh from CCA710 has already said he will be producing Sapphire and Obsidian crucibles for the Peak. Then there is the Dr.Dabber Switch which also appears to have a SiC option as well others. I realize these are not pens in shape or size, however in form and function they are. The Peak really is just a glorified wax pen. Take the atomizer out and build a pen around it and your done son! Not sure about the switch yet as there is a lack of info out there, but if it is like the Dr. Dabber portable erigs then it shouldn't be anything more than another atomizer sitting on a fancy proprietary battery case.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
No real experience, but imagine some are more effective than others. Recommend trying one of the e-liquid threads.
2clicker
Observer
yeah the Terra cup only has heat traces (or whatever you want to call them) in the walls. the floor is nothing but ceramic. i shined a flashlight through the floor to confirm. nothing in there. how they thought that was a good idea is beyond me. this cup, if heated from the bottom also, would be a winner i think.
i guess i need to look at the puffco and dabbler stuff too. i dont know much about CCA710.
EDIT* just checked out the Peak. its a desktop device eh?
Last edited:
Edgedamage
Well-Known Member
Thanks to this thread, I now use fused claptions for quick hits. Out of all the vaping gear that didnt sell. I turned two attys into mini dab rigs, I love how the claption wire soaks up the rosin.
#1 derringer clone with velocity deck coil wrapped around 1.5mm post.
#2 Troll V2 with coil wrapped around 2.0mm post
#1 derringer clone with velocity deck coil wrapped around 1.5mm post.
#2 Troll V2 with coil wrapped around 2.0mm post