Thx for the great advice!
I'll have to check out some of
@KeroZen's posts and your sig really sums things up nicely.
Read all the posts in this thread, it’s only 4 pages. If you truly want to learn about lithium battery safety, browse the link in my sig at your leisure. The Battery University site is a great source of info if you are willing to dig deep, and the information will be more accurate then most of the advice you get on public forums and strangers, like me!
EXAMPLE: Some like to baby their batteries, don’t fully discharge them, don’t fully charge them. And technically that advice for lithium batteries is CORRECT, if potentially longer battery life is your goal. But, in MY opinion, it’s chasing “fairy dust”. At $3-5 for a quality battery, I use them to their limits, as I’m not concerned with getting a few extra life cycles out of a inexpensive battery. The device will cutoff the voltage when it reaches its preset, usually 3.0-3.3 volts, depending on how the manufacturer programmed it. Battery capacity is usually tested by the manufacturer with a discharge down to 2.5 volts, these specs are usually published so you can check against the tests you do to confirm you bought an original. 2.5 volts is as low as one can safely go on a manual discharge on a charger/analyzer like a SKY MC3000. Any decent device will shut down when the low voltage cutoff is reached, so not something you have to even consider. Since I’m only interested in getting top performance from my devices, I charge them to the limit of 4.2 volts, though on my SKY charger, I can manually choose any voltage, and most any other available setting.
So, as you can see from the example above, you are presented with two opinions, and neither is wrong, choice is yours!
I don’t own the mod you use, but if the batteries are actually getting too hot to hold right after a session, that’s not a good sign. In my Davinci IQ2, they never get hot, just warm. The HEATER in the device is what WARMS them, they should not get hot by themselves when in use. This is one of the reasons it’s recommended to charge batteries on an external charger, the batteries are are air cooled during charge/discharge, not trapped in a closed device.
Battery basics: HEAT is the major ENEMY of a battery!
That’s the main reason HEAT in the MOOCH tests, that define how many AMPS a battery can SAFELY deliver. Look at his VTC-6 tests, the SAFE rating is a 15 amps, but 20 amps if the temperature of the battery does not go above 80c. Since most of use don’t have the special equipment to measure battery heat temperatures at 15-20 amps or higher, we trust an independent battery reviewer like MOOCH, as many of the published specifications as well as those printed directly on the batteries are either overly optimistic, or blatantly FALSE!
So..... BUYER BEWARE. For a minimal investment in a quality charger/analyzer, I can test for battery resistance, this is one of the main indicators that a battery is reaching EOF (End Of Life), and test for MaH rating = the actual capacity of a cell. The SKY MC3000 also monitors the batteries temperatures while charging. I can’t tell the temperatures of a cell at HIGH AMP DISCHARGE RATES, that requires more specialized equipment, but that’s the KEY in determining the safest amount of AMPS a battery can deliver. With the information I can get from my charger, I can at least determine with a fair amount of confidence, that I have an original battery, and not a fake or rewrap.
I don’t recommend chargers that are full AUTO charge settings, but I’ve posted the technical reasons for that in this thread already, sorry don’t have the time or interest to repeat the same info as it comes up repeatedly. If you have specific questions after learning the basics, I’ll try to respond. Good luck, vape SAFE!