Yeah, it's crazy that we literally have to go through a minefield of fake and dangerous products out there but I definitely agree that it's better to be safe than sorry.
I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge on this thread as well as so many other people that have contributed to it. Yes, I use Mooch's website and he's really an expert on all things battery related.
Just a few thoughts that I'd like to share. For peace of mind in the future, I'll only buy Molicel batteries to avoid the hassle and uncertainity of having to deal with possible fakes. This company designs cells for vapes and sells them directly to authorized vendors, so this eliminates the doubt of whether vendors broke up battery packs or whatever to sell individual cells to customers.
What do you consider long term storage--one or more years? I read somewhere that it's not good to keep batteries fully charged even if they're not being used for a few weeks as this stresses the cells. From your experience, what's the best voltage to keep them at room temperature? Btw, that's a great idea to keep them in a special box--I need to look into getting a fireproof metal box.
I think you mentioned earlier that you have a SKYRC MC300 charger. Does this let you check the real mAh of your cells and can you check impendance too? Do you also use a digital scale to check the battery's weight?
I think that's everything for now. Stay safe everyone!
FROM POST #90:
“Long term, is when you have a lot you don’t think you will use in a year or two. I put some Sony VTC5 18650’s away for a few years in bottom of FRIG (not freezer), well wrapped. Took them out, let them warm, then charged, perfect. The shelf life of lithium batteries is about 10 years, so if you not using them for months, no problem. Most vapor users don’t need to do long term “cool” storage, unless you have more then you can currently use in a year or so. Also most specs on 18650 batteries will claim 300-500 recharge cycles. So, if you only used ONE battery, once a day, it could last 1-2 years. If you rotate more batteries, they all have longer life. BATTERIES = CONSUMABLES”
FROM POST #92:
“Indeed, I have a bunch in a room temp box that I’ll probably never use, but aren’t worth the effort or space for long term storage. I do keep records of my battery purchase dates, and log their specs when new so I have a baseline of them for future reference. It’s also a pain to try to manually charge or discharge a battery to the proper storage voltage of 3.8v, unless the charger has a “storage” preset, it’s doable, but you have to factor the voltage sag when battery is removed from charger. Much simpler to use them as designed....”
YOUR OTHER QUESTIONS:
I keep my vape batteries at FULL 4.2 volts off the charger at room temperature so I can easily swap them when needed. New batteries, extra stock, in sealed container in frig, NOT FREEZER, at 3.8 volts storage temperature. These will be good for years. That’s how I roll, others find their own comfort level.
The SkyRC MC3000, can read DC resistance in each slot, these kind of resistance readers built into even the best chargers are hard to get accurate readings due to the sliding connectors. Decent enough once you get a stable reading, to log batteries, and compare to some of Mooches DC RESISTANCE test results. The problem trying to compare to most published manufacturers specification sheets, is they use AC RESISTANCE. I bought a separate meter for AC readings.
That charger does calculate mAh, the most accurate way, is the charger DISCHARGES the battery to my set STOP VOLTAGE at 2.5 amps (the same as spec sheets), then the charger goes into CHARGE MODE to 4.2 volts, when finished, you get the TOTAL mAh of 1-4 batteries. You can then compare to spec sheets, or Mooch test results.
After all that, I don’t weigh the batteries, as I’m 99% sure I have an original battery. Weighing is not a bad idea, but there’s probably enough variation to make it the least effective method to detect fakes. Most fakes, even if they look proper, will most likely NOT have the same mAh’s, as the original. They may exhibit higher internal resistance as well. In use, they may exhibit a much larger voltage drop under load, as they are not high amp batteries! Just inferior batteries with BOGUS wraps and exaggerated printed specs.