18650 Battery Safety

[cybrguy]

Couple or 3 years at least. And it has been stepped on (not recently), the display is cracked. I have been thinking about the UMS4 as it's replacement but I wouldn't mind trying out a different vendor.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I have 2 Nitecore chargers, both D2 with digital display, one 2 bay and one 4 bay. One of the bays in the 4 bay has stopped charging which makes me a littler nervous about it's safety. I will be looking for a 4 bay to replace it. Anyone have any favorite 4 bay digital charger they would like to recommend?

Did you read my post above yours?

 

[cybrguy]

I don't recall pooping on anything, but if you mean that I should consider the SkyRC MC3000, I have considered it. Unfortunately I am unlikely to spend $130 on a charger even if I should. It IS among what I am considering. I am more likely, however, to get something under $50 unless some cash magically arrives. Crazier things have happened.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I threw one in my TM yesterday and used it up over the course of the evening. Didn't seem hugely different from the HG2s I have been using but it was just the first attempt.
Edit!
Nope, wrong TM. The one with the P28A is still giving me 5 buzzes. I will readdress this after I have used it up.

Did you mean four buzzes? My TM never gives more than four, so it goes four at full then three then two and then one is where I am still able to get a bowl thanks to these mollicell

Glad some of you took advantage of the availability of this upgraded version of the P26A, I had placed myself on the 18650batterystore’s “alert when available” email list, but I don’t need anymore right now, so I shared that link, somewhere else here.

Yes thank you so much for sharing that!

 

[cybrguy]

Did you mean four buzzes? My TM never gives more than four, so it goes four at full then three then two and then one is where I am still able to get a bowl thanks to these mollicell

I get 4 buzzes when I first put a battery in. However, when I start session mode I get 5 buzzes on a fresh battery. On both my TMs.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I get 4 buzzes when I first put a battery in. However, when I start session mode I get 5 buzzes on a fresh battery. On both my TMs.

Huh maybe that is particular to session mode then, which I hardly ever use

 

[cybrguy]

Try it please. I would be surprised if something was different about mine as it is both of them. I almost always use session mode as I use it on glass.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Try it please. I would be surprised if something was different about mine as it is both of them. I almost always use session mode as I use it on glass.

Yeah that is when I've used session mode as well, but I never do that anymore, so that must be the difference, I'll let you know when I try session mode again, been so long!

 

[RustyOldNail]

I don't recall pooping on anything, but if you mean that I should consider the SkyRC MC3000, I have considered it. Unfortunately I am unlikely to spend $130 on a charger even if I should. It IS among what I am considering. I am more likely, however, to get something under $50 unless some cash magically arrives. Crazier things have happened.

No that was the DV thread...

I bought the SkyRC MC3000 for $80.00, but if I had to decide on another, I would choose Xtar over Nitecore. Good luck!

 

[cybrguy]

VC4L or VC4S? Having a hard time sussing out the actual difference other than the USB connection and the L seems to work with more batteries.

 

[RustyOldNail]

VC4L or VC4S? Having a hard time sussing out the actual difference other than the USB connection and the L seems to work with more batteries.

Well I’m not a Xtar product rep., but I took a quick look at the two models you mentioned. Once I got to the description “auto charge settings”, I stopped as I could not recommend ANY charger at any price that does not allow the operator to set the charge rate. I just added that to my personal knowledge base, as I received a $15 charger in a deal on something else. Basically, it was thrown in on the deal. Now you know I’ve already upgraded to hopefully the LAST charger I’ll need in my lifetime... sure... (SkyRC MC3000) So I thought I would play with this little 2-bay charger. Long story short, it’s the 1st charger I’ve ever used, were the charge rate is picked AUTOMATICALLY!

Well if that technology was 100%, it would be great for battery newbies... BUT, I had one battery that needed a charge, normally I’d do 3-4 at a time. Lucky for me it was a small 900mAh 18350, the ones used in a Davinci Miqro. Why lucky, because I noticed the dial on the charger go to 1 AMP, that’s over twice the recommended charge rate of .4-.5 amps for this battery capacity. I repeated my steps, restarting, etc. The charger kept choosing the inappropriate higher rate.

So the manual was useless, but the internet had reviews that revealed this potentially dangerous design. It certainly is not good for the battery any way you look at it. And I see they continue to offer these AUTO detection chargers. For an 18650, this chargers 1amp charge limit would be fine, but as soon as you want to charge smaller batteries, this issue can appear. The claim is the AUTO CHARGE RATE is based on battery voltage and internal resistance, great if it actually worked and was always accurate. Having just learned this first hand, I just wanted to pass it on.

My advice on the current Xtar line from a quick search, is to buy their best 4-Bay charger, that does have 3 charge settings you choose, not the auto detection only on their cheaper models.
I believe this is still their best? “XTAR DRAGON VP4 Plus”

 

[purepotstill]

FWIW, my NItecore UMS4 allows to choose the charge rate from 300mA to 2A with 100mA increments. As I'm usually not on a hurry, I charge my batteries at the lowest rate.

 

[Texus]

I believe this is still their best? “XTAR DRAGON VP4 Plus”

Like the added multimeter capability on this model too.

I also see USB charging as a feature on some XTAR models. Should this be avoided? Trying to figure out what are key feature do's and don'ts.

For example the XTAR VC8 has adjustable current and charges via USB-C

 

[RustyOldNail]

Like the added multimeter capability on this model too.

I also see USB charging as a feature on some XTAR models. Should this be avoided? Trying to figure out what are key feature do's and don'ts.

For example the XTAR VC8 has adjustable current and charges via USB-C

I’m not totally sure what total load a USB-C connection can handle, obviously the small USB power supply, and proper cable play a roll. I tend to like chargers that use AC power supplies, as depending on specs, usually deliver the most power. This is less important if one has no desire for faster charge times, or being able to choose higher discharge rates. The USB way, may limit your chargers power choices. Charger specs can be difficult to read, but if you look for how many of the SLOTS are available at a given charge rate, many give a total amperage number, but that is usually divided by the number of slots, SHARING the total. Same with discharge amps. Just beware of these differences and choose appropriately.

Looking at the Xtar VC8, it does have the ability to set a manual charge current along with its AUTO CHG SETTING.
Below I’ve pasted the chart that shows how the USB-C power, is divided by the slots.

If you want a fast charge at 3 amps, ONLY one bay. 8 batteries, limited to .5amps.

 

[Texus]

I’m not totally sure what total load a USB-C connection can handle, obviously the small USB power supply, and proper cable play a roll. I tend to like chargers that use AC power supplies, as depending on specs, usually deliver the most power. This is less important if one has no desire for faster charge times, or being able to choose higher discharge rates. The USB way, may limit your chargers power choices. Charger specs can be difficult to read, but if you look for how many of the SLOTS are available at a given charge rate, many give a total amperage number, but that is usually divided by the number of slots, SHARING the total. Same with discharge amps. Just beware of these differences and choose appropriately.

Looking at the Xtar VC8, it does have the ability to set a manual charge current along with its AUTO CHG SETTING.
Below I’ve pasted the chart that shows how the USB-C power, is divided by the slots.

If you want a fast charge at 3 amps, ONLY one bay. 8 batteries, limited to .5amps.

View attachment 7524

Thank you for that very helpful reply!!!!

 

[RustyOldNail]

Thank you for that very helpful reply!!!!

U R welcome. If you get close to buying and have any questions, I’ll do my best to help.

I’ve owned a relatively few chargers, and after getting the SkyRC MC3000 Charger/analyzer on sale for $80, it better be my last. It requires some learning, and though it has a “dummy mode”, this charger was designed by users, so it shines with all the manual settings ability. Not for everyone, but these chargers with ONLY, an auto charge rate are the opposite end, and not something I would use or recommend. Many take hours, days and weeks to learn their vape devices, and spend little time, on learning about the power source, and lithium batteries can be dangerous....

 

[Momor]

Curious to hear you about these P28A. Mine suck, but I think I didn't buy them in the good store (old and/or bad storage conditions). Ordered some P26A from nkon (seems it's one of the best seller for EU).

I recently bought 4 Molicel P28A from a french e-cig vendor and they also suck. They perform below my 2 years old sony VT6 and LGHG2.
I use them in a Tinymight and FW7 and they deplete a loooooot faster than my old cells, they cut at 3,6V (my others at 3,5) and my vapes take longer to heat up.
I contacted the vendor and they allow me to return those P28A and propose me to exchange them for Vap Procell https://vapprocell.com/index.php/imr-18650-power-3500-mah/
CDR seems 17A
They seem up to the task wright ? Thsi vendor also have those that seem good:
- https://vapprocell.com/index.php/batterie-18650-power-3000-mah/ (same brand, bit less capacity but higher CDR)
- https://www.vapoclope.fr/accus/3856-accu-efest-imr-18650-purple-3000mah-35a.html
- https://www.vapoclope.fr/accus/4655-accu-mxjo-18650-imr-3000mah-35a.html
What's your opinion guys ? TIA

 

[oldfool]

What's your opinion guys ? TIA

For my money the VTC5A.

The Sony / Murata VTC5A is our best overall 18650 battery for 2021.
It offers a capacity of 2600mAh and CDR of 25A. Ideal for all applications
but the cell will show its true greatness in ultra high drain devices.

 

[purepotstill]

@Momor : I've just contacted the seller too, we will see what they say.

 

[cybrguy]

I recently bought 4 Molicel P28A from a french e-cig vendor and they also suck. They perform below my 2 years old sony VT6 and LGHG2.

That is kinda odd. I am getting better performance from my new P28As than any of my other batteries including the HG2s. I wonder if yours were fakes? Glad they took them back for you...

 

[purepotstill]

Not fakes, but probably old or/and badly stored batteries.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I recently bought 4 Molicel P28A from a french e-cig vendor and they also suck. They perform below my 2 years old sony VT6 and LGHG2.
I use them in a Tinymight and FW7 and they deplete a loooooot faster than my old cells, they cut at 3,6V (my others at 3,5) and my vapes take longer to heat up.
I contacted the vendor and they allow me to return those P28A and propose me to exchange them for Vap Procell https://vapprocell.com/index.php/imr-18650-power-3500-mah/
CDR seems 17A
They seem up to the task wright ? Thsi vendor also have those that seem good:
- https://vapprocell.com/index.php/batterie-18650-power-3000-mah/ (same brand, bit less capacity but higher CDR)
- https://www.vapoclope.fr/accus/3856-accu-efest-imr-18650-purple-3000mah-35a.html
- https://www.vapoclope.fr/accus/4655-accu-mxjo-18650-imr-3000mah-35a.html
What's your opinion guys ? TIA

Took a quick look at your links, never heard of those, so they are obviously RE-WRAPS, so unless you have the ability to test them on a battery charger/analyzer, you won’t know what they really are. Not all re-wraps are bad, depends on the “lot” they bought. It’s taken years in the USA for enough feedback from customers, for us to have a small list of trusted, and or authorized online battery dealers here. I suggest doing some research in your country to see if you can find trusted companies selling original brands. Good luck!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah my p28a is working fine, much like my p26a, need more testing to see if I'm getting any noticeable extra battery life from them though...

 

[Momor]

For my money the VTC5A.

The shop don't sell VTC5A but VTC6

@Momor : I've just contacted the seller too, we will see what they say.

I bought them from vapoclope.fr and they send they would send me a return label and exchange them for any of their battery.

That is kinda odd. I am getting better performance from my new P28As than any of my other batteries including the HG2s. I wonder if yours were fakes? Glad they took them back for you...

I know. I bought them because of all the good reviews of happy users like you but I got bad ones for sure. Thankfully Vapoclope CS seems on point.

Took a quick look at your links, never heard of those, so they are obviously RE-WRAPS, so unless you have the ability to test them on a battery charger/analyzer, you won’t know what they really are. Not all re-wraps are bad, depends on the “lot” they bought. It’s taken years in the USA for enough feedback from customers, for us to have a small list of trusted, and or authorized online battery dealers here. I suggest doing some research in your country to see if you can find trusted companies selling original brands. Good luck!

I usually go with nkon.nl from the netherlands, the only real battery seller I found in EU and not an e-cig one but they didn't have no molicell in stock when I "needed" to order.
If I want to take a chance with the Vapprocell, should I go with the 3500mAh and 17A CDR or the 3000mAh and 20A CDR ?

Yeah my p28a is working fine, much like my p26a, need more testing to see if I'm getting any noticeable extra battery life from them though...

And do you notice less batterie life from your P26A compared to your LGHG2 or VTC6 ?

 

[Shit Snacks]

And do you notice less batterie life from your P26A compared to your LGHG2 or VTC6 ?

No because the P26A have such high amps I feel like it makes up for the less MAH when using single cell, at least for TM and TP80 in my experience