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Thanks, I thought I would stop in. Only Bamboo shoots and young stems, nothing that would work as a vapcap stem which requires mature wood. I'm glad my work still survives. while I don't make vape accessories anymore, I do think about what I've sold in the past and wonder how it is holding up...

I've been enjoying whole Black Kush nugs over candle light in my 4th gen Ti Omni. The flavour is incredible and the vapour is so smooth over the first three cycles. By the time I crumble for the finisher I'm already drifting away from my pains. This is a Claro Walnut Brass Core body.

Bamboo is not stable and highly prone to cracking if it's not dried properly. I found that I had to bind my bamboo stems with thread at the ends to keep them from breaking but it added a nice place to grip near the hot end anyways. Drying the bamboo as whole pole will greatly reduce the tendency...

it's much easier to just remove the vapcap from your mouth or the glass piece you're using. The amount of vapour in the vapcap will be so little that it's not a considerable waste. Plus it avoids burning your fangers and spilling your load on the ground. If you were really worried about waste...

He could be using the hot torch technique where you heat the cap halfway through to get a longer heat cycle. I do it ever so often. I don't recommend it though since the odds of scorching the load is high.

I've been packing my things to get ready to move. It's been a busy start to 2019 for me. Moving unfortunately means I'll have to leave behind the shop at my parents house and my woodworking will have to take a backseat. While I still have access to the shop, I won't be able to get as much done...

Let the bud dry or load less into the grinder at once.

Dynavap Vapcaps are a good contrast to the Mighty. Also portable

I doubt the resin/epoxy in CF is “safe”. human consumption, food safety and what not is unlikely to have been considered when making it.

10mm - 12mm dia magnets with at least 6mm depth should work just fine. I use axial magnets of this size and the cap comes off no problem.

It does but I like to block the airhole for the first few seconds then release it. This gets dumps a bunch of heat into the herb while the cap and tip are hottest. I figure that I can make a Ti or steel spring easily enough. It should also double as a pocket clip.

Since I started using my Omni again I’m finding that I want some sort of valve for the airhole. I’m always hunting for the airhole losing precious heat in the cap. I had the idea a while ago to have a flute/woodwind style valve but never made one. Perhaps when I get home I’ll see what I can come...

I sandwich a fine mesh screen between two SS CCDs to stop bits from coming through. It does clog faster but it’s usually time to clean the thing out anyways.

Try heating past the click for 2 seconds on the first cycle. Then heat to the click on the second cycle. This should get you a stronger first cycle and a similar second cycle. Alternatively you could heat 2/3 or 3/4 towards the bottom of the cap and get three cycles out of it.

I do have some chunks of blackwood and Ebony but it’s a very limited supply from George that I recieved a while ago. Like @Hogni said I deal mostly with domestic woods which I have a large supply of. I bought ebonite since it’s far more stable than black wood and comes in a wide range of sizes.

Buy china glass and save your money. There's good makers who have low prices for thick glass. It also stings far less when you break a $20-40 piece compared to a $200-400 piece.

I still make vapourizer stuff but have gone to private sales and custom requests via direct contact. Etsy didn't want any vapour accessories or parts on their site and no other maker sites support our hobby. If someone really wants something from me I am happy to make it.

I thought my vapcap abv would be pretty spent but like @Chandler said, it makes some very potent edibles.

I won’t be making long stems as ready to sell but I can still make them upon request. I can use paypal but it will have to be done carefully.