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I honestly don't think the filter is stopping much wax, I feel like the wax gets melted and pushed out because the puck is really tight and hard after. I think rosin gets a lot of wax in the extraction no matter what filter you use. But I hope I'm wrong. The day I have enough material to test...

From experience, I would argue that there is less wax in bubble rosin than flower rosin. Based on the amount of reclaim after dabs. Bubble rosin is so clean, in fact I leave less residue than a lot of my shatters. It could be those shatters where not as dewaxed as possible, but I can show...

bubble rosin nation represent, welcome! My avatar is the bubble rosin hotness, white berry.

I haven't tried 7g at a time in a while on it, so maybe it was more do do with the strain at the time. I'm going to try again soon and report back. it just felt like I wasn't getting the puck down like I could with 3.5 That being said, the bottle jack in the NS is WAY stronger than this...

economically rosin from flower will get the greatest "yields" although doing a concentrate first (bubble/sift) and then pressing that will of course be a much cleaner and more potent product. However you do lose flavor and yield this way. Ideally if you have large amounts, you can bubble it...

I would avoid this thing unless you only want to press hash. If you wantt to do flower, this thing is good for 1 or 2 grams max at a time. Maybe 3 but you'll start to lose yield. Electric is garbage unless you have big $$.

Even my nugsmasher mini with 2000PSI is not up to doing more than 3.6 grams of flower at a time. Trust me, this POS electrical pressie will not be great in the long run.

fascinating stuff, thanks!

awesome stuff! is it possible the vibrations are breaking the sound barrier at their peak and causing the same effect you see jets in the air?

Also, I notice your filter method. With those long plates you could use just the front half of the plates and get if off them quickly with the method I posted above in my album. Here's a snippet of it;

Nice! and ya there's rarely a reason to go over 170f with bubble. Even 160f is good and fairly standard.

You can always get a small press and attache these plates to it since the heaters and plates should work no matter what press you attache them too. I'm not sure that thin metal on top of the plates can handle real pressure through, might want to remove that somehow.

So good, whiteberry rosin. I posted the rest of the album in the rosin thread.

NugSmasher Mini in full effect. In the lab hitting 10gs of almost no melt full spectrum WhiteBerry bubble pressed through 25u filters. 60% yield, and it's REALLY hitting hard. https://imgur.com/a/ouLwC

ya but it's decarbbed, it's already been heat degraded enough.

ahh ok, I see what you are saying. I've washed rosin chips a few times and did not even attempt to correlate the amount of wax I stripped to do with how pucked it was. You'd have to show me a little more evidence of a correlation. I can provide detailed numbers on yields under both methods...

the temp and cure time are the primary factors in both consistency and color, agreed. No one is arguing that. You just said above that your "pre-puck" rosin is half wax, and then you say the pre-pucking is removing wax? Can you explain this a little better, I'm a bit confused. I believe you...

it's bad nose season! dry and cracking just inside the tip, ouch!

just try it yourself. Press the same stuff with a filter and no prepress. Then press the same stuff pucked to hell. The amount I've pressed at this point is staggering. This is also why slug.33 rosin is so dark, you have to press it through itself.

The more hard packed the puck the darker the resulting rosin. That's just experience. Now maybe it's because we have to up the pressure and time, but the result is what matters. I also don't consider the amount of wax part of the quality, it's not winterized so it's going to have wax. The...