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That is correct. Just a simple 2 prong lamp cord with the only two electrical connections shrink wrapped. That is all you need as well. My 110v unit is going to be VL tested. Vaporwriter Laboratories. All the same requirements as UL but the testing is more fun. Just because we don't have to...

I was waiting until photos were posted of the EV-2 to make this post, but that may take a while yet. Consumer safety is my number one priority. It should be the number one priority of every manufacturer. When a potentially fatal design flaw is discovered, a responsible manufacturer would...

I would not recommend trying to drill out the center tube of your UD. That is how I broke my UD which required me to fix it. I was using a 5/16" drill bit so that I could use 5/16" roasting tubes and I twisted the center tube which included the wires to the heating element. The center tube needs...

Thanks Jam, Vapinghole, Jeppy, and toros23. The core plate already has the holes in it. I just need to cut the hex. Here is another one I just finished. The HIPod. I purchased a Banksia Pod at the wood store a while back. Glad I waited for the new design to make it. Works very well and stays...

Here is a new design Redwood Burl HI I just made that will not be getting a bottom cap. Thought I would show everyone how it looks from the top and bottom. Not much to it. Works just as well without the bottom cap. The heating element is still replaceable, although not quite as easy as before.

Jam - Thanks for posting the great video. slowandsteady - Thanks for the suggestion. I also fixed the index file on the website so the home page now shows both the Toasty Top and the Heat Island. ubw - Having a tough time turning the wood you sent me. The red gum wood smells just like a...

Really like the look of the EOVA. Well done Wes. A very simple design. It should have its own thread for sure. I think it will become very popular. It is by far the safest electro dabbing rig I have ever seen. No exposed metal parts which could cause permanent scars / brands. Because accidents...

The air flow will generally be the best on the first draw and degrades after that. I almost always stir (unless I pinch and roll the silicone) so it is constantly being broken down to smaller pieces. I have been loading my stainless steel tubes about half full so there is just enough for two...

You are welcome. Glad to hear you are having luck with a cotton filter. I think it is the added air flow resistance that is causing more clouds rather than any atomization. Energy must be added to the process to get atomization. The temperature is hottest at the heating element and gets cooler...

Thanks Ace, Jam, and Vapinghole. This new design opens up a lot more possibilities. Keep watching for some more interesting units. Glad to have you on the list chib. Sorry to hear you are having to combust. Hope I can fix that. Here is a photo of the cotton filter in my Turbo Tube since it...

I will do my best to make you one that will get you very hi.

arf777 - Your JedHI skills improve each day. Try loading and grinding a little less for the SS roasting tubes. I am finding it works better for me that way. Another technique I am using is to angle the SS tip into the HI center tube so that you just hear air whistling. It provides for good air...

arf777 - Glad to hear the cord is working well with your VVPS. You have the force working very well with your Sith HIsaber. mvapes - Good to hear from you. All is doing well. Getting closer to your name. Jam - Great to hear you are finding just the right voltage with no combustion. Toros23...

Thanks Jeppy. I have been discovering some wonderful new fabrication techniques. The fine grind on my all glass 14mm GonG stems was always my least favorite task. It required a fair amount of luck to get the angle just right. Had ordered a $220 grinder head to do the task, but it is on back...

arf777 - Glad you are enjoying the size. It is very maneuverable. Vapinghole - Thanks for getting back in line. You will like using the new design. Yoshi - The beauty of this new design is the flexibility to make the bottom cap from so many different kinds of wood and other materials. I have...

Thanks sticks, jam, GV, and UBR. I haven't measured the difference in power usage but I do feel more heat rising from the new core. Heat that would be going into the wood with the old core. There is still more than adequate heat available for heating the air. arf - Glad to hear it arrived...

Have been waiting to use some redwood burl that I got a while back. I had to share some photos. Glad I waited for the new design. Also have a bunch of counter top material samples that were going to be thrown away. They work good for making yo-yos, but they also work great for the HI bottom caps...

I have noticed that the nasty smell after combustion is more in the glass tube than the silicone. A complete wash and rise with alcohol (then water) will remove the combustion taste. I have some silicone tubes that are over a year old. They just darken a bit from absorbing oil but still taste...

Thanks. There is not much movement of the glass piece. It is so light in weight that there is very little stress on the connection. It can be tightened back up if something does happen to dislodge it. I haven't dropped it yet, but should protect the glass pretty well. Great video Jeppy. Thanks...

The longer path will provide for more heat transfer but will also add more air friction. Turbulent air flow will strip more heat away from the heating element and center tube. A spin to the air with a corkscrew path would certainly help. Hot air spinning into the roasting tube should provide for...