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Just straiten them up. Check for bad solders and such as they can need touch-ups. :science:

Almost guaranteed to be the issue. The work coil connections are critical and if one opens up, even for a millisecond, the drivers will likely short. And they love to smoke when they do... :science:

Correct. :nod:

Standby is zero amps. :brow:

Insertion depth is your only control. Having the tip close to the end windings is the longest click but also can be too hot if inserted too far and may combust before the click. If the depth is not deep enough, a long count after the click is needed and heat distribution will not be as even with...

Good idea! I've placed an order this morning for a cork sheet to experiment with. Good point about the cork flaking and jamming the switch mechanism. I'm going to try with the sticky back cork cut to the full tube diameter and remove the Orings and rhinestone. My thinking is that the full...

You could try removing the Orings and checking it to see if something is out of place or not centered. A small paper clip with a little bend for a hook or a dental tool can be used to snag and pull out the Orings. To re-insert, the top lid of a pen or sharpy will allow you to push evenly without...

This is only the second report of this since I switched out the jewel type rhinestone to the dome top type. The jewel ones had a hex-shaped flat top which left the edge marks on "some" caps. There were enough reports that I changed to the current type. This change was last April and 2 reports...

Without knowing the supply, a fuse wouldn't be a bad idea. There is likely an internal fuse in the supply but easier to change an external one if you accidentally short it out. Or even better yet if it has a self-resetting shutdown but can't be sure. Could always try and short it with a 10 amp...

19 volts is too high. Either of the 12-volt 13 amp outputs should work on that computer supply. :science:

The bare minimum would be a 10 amp fuse or breaker, 16 AWG wire or 14 AWG if running over 3 feet and a 5 amp push non-latching button switch. The fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. Also, solder the work coil instead of attempting to use those blue screw-down connectors. Any...

Please use the PM (private message) for Induction heater inquiries.

Hey guys, I'm back from a great Vacation. 4 days in 1000 Islands with my wife and grandson. Boat cruise tour, helicopter ride, Fort Henry tour and a tour of the old Kingston Penitentiary. A good fun few days. So a couple points here. First thing when one gets the PSM is to charge it. To charge...

I'm on holidays this week and may not be able to respond to PMs. Back on Fri Aug 30th.

There are 2 huge problems with that idea. The capacitor would need to be huge to hold the 80 mAh worth of energy required for even 1 bowl. 2nd, capacitors discharge linearly and voltage drops as they discharge. Batteries voltage have a long plateau so a constant current is maintained. Check it...

Please use the PM system for ailments. :tup: Since yours is over a year back now, please include a picture looking down the tube so I know what vintage switch mechanism you have. ;) TIA

PM me when you get the new tube and we'll figure out how to get the old one out. Looks like it's broken pretty deep into the coil. The Orings will need to be removed first then we'll see if there is a way to hook under the bottom of the tube to work it out. Worst case we can break the glass...

Your photos aren't showing up?

Please send me a PM for any ailments. We will get it sorted. The glass tube is just held in by the pressure of the coil. If enough glass remains that can be grasped with a rubber glove or similar, it will twist out. A drop of water between the tube and coil will help if stuck. However, when the...

This link is in the FAQ as well.