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I'm very curious to the answers to this question too. It sounds like the protection is kicking in. As the metal's temp rises, so does the current so your experiencing hitting the limit of the protection. The caps I've experimented with, generally are an amp under the limit. Either, the Ti Omni...

Couple good questions. The reason for the FET is because of the current the device takes while in operation and the need to have a "easy effort" activation switch. Tach switches are typically low current so can't use as a direct "in path" switch. However, it is possible to eliminate the FET if...

Here are the specs for the indicator LEDs. L1 < 9 V L2 < 10 V L3 < 10.6 V L4 < 11.4 V L5 > 11.5 V Loosing 1-2 LEDs while dipping the VC is OK. If loosing more, I'd make sure the connections to the battery are in tight. Specially the two conductor red one, as unit will run on just the 4...

Super glue has many great uses but I'm afraid this is not one of them. It can make quite the mess and get into cracks that will cause any spring loaded mechanisms to seize up. JB Quick Weld, is my preferred method to fix or even improve connector reliability. Tack it from the inside by gobbing...

We for the battery gauge before I wired differently. Good eye. :science:

Thanks for the kind words mbr. The BMS, "Battery Management System" is a safety device and helps protect the batteries. -10 amp cut-off -over charge cell protection -under charge cut-off protection -cell monitoring and cuts out if unbalanced cell detected. IMHO, it's a couple well spent bucks...

Would apply to both when batteries are new. It's just good practice to fully charge any new battery before a discharge cycle. Although, I think many use new battery driven purchases right away until dead then charge. I have no idea on the actual damage or long term effect it has. Always kind of...

After the initial charge, no problem. You should give it a good constant first charge though. If completely dead, I'd let it charge for a few minutes before dipping to get the charge off the bottom end. ;)

I think what initially happened, was the BMS board went to protection mode when you inserted the batteries. Putting it on charge reset it. Also, yes, please charge batteries up full before you get to serious use. Glad you figured it out! :D

Yes, that was in fact, the first functional unit I made. Was for the concept and proved a worthy unit. Was replaced by the Jarhead. @cpk, the Portside Mini is the more portable unit.

This is not normal at all. Please PM me the details. Thanks.

It's normal for it to "buzz" while under full output charge. It quiets down as the battery tops up. ;)

Just letting you fine folks know that I now have inventory for car smart chargers as an optional accessory. $10 USD + any shipping alterations. Good for all the battery powered units I sell. Just let me know if your interested when I contact you that your unit is ready. :tup: :science:

Please ensure you give a good initial push as the first insertion can be very tight. (biting my tongue here....) This ended up being @MinnBobber problem.

Hey guys. Today was not a good day. A definite downside to the China business risk taking end of things. Also. a prime example of why I need to move away from those pre-made heater drivers. So today I started to make up some IHs using drivers from a new batch I got lately. Actually, two orders...

I think you need to have your facts strait before you get asked. It's just my IH tattoo needle sterilizer. :uhoh: Honest. :luv: Or it's an air-freshener device, did I forget my fragrance packs for it?... Dag-nab-it! Although this explanation is better fitted for an IH mounted in your car. :razz:

Yes, that BMS can be used. In fact, going to start using them with the Skellys and PS as well. A better match for the amps we use. Still figuring out how to physically mount it, but intend to use the same wire types to match the RC type battery. Basically making the battery holder into the same...

Plug the charger into the wall, and into the Mini. The led on the charger indicates if charging or not. Green is not charging or batteries are full. Red means it's charging. Power switch needs to be on to charge. Should be full in 1/2 - 1 hour. To get an accurate battery measurement, press the...

I'd say normal. The work coil will build up heat when powered up. This is why it should only be powered while actually using it. It needs a bit of a cool down period. Should not be a problem unless you have 10 people lined up to heat their VCs. In which case, I missed the invite........ :freak:

Cool quick testing setup. However, I hope that your not using as a permanent device like that. It has disaster written all over it. 1/You should have a non-latching switch for manual operation. 2/Cardboard is not a good enclosure for obvious fire risk reasons. 3/Need something under the coil so...