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they don't break....just like that, ..... after a few years they seem to chip-off (i guess from the heat-stress), small pieces will break, until nothing is left to hold the cooling unit..... but that can take a while..... my first one "chipped" the first bit after almost 2 years, then the heater...

the shell/case is the only (spare) part missing to make this vaporizer future proof. I'm already missing bits of plastic around the bowl..... so yea I'm definitely interested !

i don't think such a thing has been invented yet.... :leaf:

when everything has been chipped off, ...or almost, i'm thinking of grinding flush what's left around the heater, and mount/glue (will see) a metal plate or something, on each side. this will be in place of the plastic that has been removed (chipped off).

it started again..... after 2 years. this is a replacement of the original one which had the same issue. (also lasted 2 years) it will get worse of cause, and i'll do a mod for it.....if i don't find a replacement housing.

go get a cheap copy from aliexpress and change the housing..... that is what i'm gonna do when the time comes. (i may even get one in advance.....) this idea gave someone in this thread a few pages back. (thank you) my old mighty broke some fins but had warranty so i got it replaced. the new...

I welcome all these upgrades, but really i am not impressed. i don't think they will release a "real new one"..... (did S&B ever?) more like an increment update... like Android,(marshmellow,oreo ,pie,etc ) every newer version is almost the same with only minor changes mostly cosmetic...

20% more money lol ... ...sorry i couldn' resist.

great idea for when the shell/housing breaks, and the internals still work. too bad there aren't any spare housings for sale. (i asked)

that is what I do.

my "findings" the last few years with the mighty, are these, regarding your questions: cooled down and re-heated material is not as potent as original. for comparison, the 4th hit from a fresh bowl is ok. but the 4th hit from a heated, cooled down, and re-heated bowl, is as the 7-8th hit if...

I have opened it to change batteries, under the filling chamber is a about 3cm diameter aluminum pipe ,and a 1cm in diameter cylinder shaped metallic heater in the middle of the pipe, with clearance in between, that's the air path. it is possible to clog it, but highly unlikely. maybe some...

I know what you mean about efficiency....,but for me it is all about draw resistance. ….and know that I think about it, it may not be possible to get these kind of hits with less material.

that is exactly why I retired the solo on day 1 of the mighty.....and never looked back.

if you have any links for spare casing replica or whatever, please post!!!

I after some research I bought the "Sony Konion US18650VTC6" 3120mAh. about 15 bucks for both locally. (Europe) don't forget to buy the ones with solder tabs.

no 3D model...… I have asked for a housing @rachet who creates 3d printed accessories and stuff, -no luck, and if he doesn't have it, sadly nobody will.... with all broken/chipped housings I thought there would be a aftermarket replacement or something by now.... but no, not even as a spare...

the pcb with the screen is mounted with screws ,on the lcd side (front). you need to unscrew the pcb to get to the lcd. hope this helps...

remove sticker. (blow with hair dryer ,to soften glue ) remove torx screws (under sticker) important: do NOT lift both half's, but slide them in opposite direction one up/one down , there are 2 "holding tabs " on top which will break otherwise (don't ask how I know) repair unit, change...