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If it is heavier than balsa, it is probably 'bass wood' as described to me by one owner of a hobby store.

From a safety perspective, I suggest an on-off switch on the main power source. I know... I don't like extra parts but this is because a failed FET is a short. This could simmer for some time and never blow a fuse. When an IH is unattended, power should be removed from the ZVS inputs. Cheers.

The strip is a break-away piece from the ZVS PCB. It is part of the PCB fabrication process. Solder that coil on there, even if only temporarily, before ever putting power to it.

Push the VC into the heater hole and wait for the click. And the lights do a rainbox color wheel thing. The Brute is an excellent heater. Use one every day. This is a post, w/ video, about the HotShot which is the predecessor of Brute

A good momentary switch.

You might say that LOL

A simple nickel-iron with a little chromium thrown in for good measure. Thanks for posting that @OCDeeeznuts

@Severmore - Connect with Jeff. Cars can put out some excess voltage. May have had something to do with it with particularly hot caps. The FETs fried which might be replaceable if it didn't sizzle too long.

I too am very interested in a honest side by side review. I consider the Revolve to be on a whole different level but I also don't own anything with a big '$' on it. My long wooden stems cool wonderfully and it would take 5+" of stem to even come close to a Revolve's vape path-length.

Have you considered putting a piece of stainless steel foil in there to heat with an induction heater? Been wanting to try that for ages. Just curious.

FKM is Viton. Higher temperature compatibility than other o-rings. This is what DV uses as well. Viton is a very stable material that is used in vacuum chambers that are regularly baked to high temperatures with the o-rings in place. Fuming anything into vacuum chambers is a no-go for...

Protectionism at its finest. No one has this as a product and it is unique and novel. But ignore me, everyone does LOL I like it and yes, contact George at TeaTime and see if he would be interested in a collaboration. teatime@dynavap.com The contact will help protect your IP now that it is...

Yes

There is no reason you couldn't put a stainless steel foil inside of a Vapeonic to work with the Wand or other heaters with enough depth, @babunja .

Just one less metal in the vape path. Clickers are bi-metal and I'm assuming one of the metals is stainless steel. Not to mention, much easier to clean LOL Thank you for the reminder @Petetbay - I thought I dreamt that about Orion.

I think it fits in the Orion @Petetbay . DV/DT is working on a new IH that it doesn't fit at this time. They are fixing the glass to be compatible on that unit as well. Austyn went and showed it fit a lot of heritage heaters at TeaTime a week ago. Thank you @holdentrout for the...

George said at TeaTime that the clicker now has a visible indicator with the clicker visible as a new click indicator. I must have misunderstood that. Do you already have one of these armored caps @holdentrout ?

George confirms 12MM OD on the new cap.

Or the IH. I have noticed that digger always got hotter than the rest of the cap in an IH. That is what scorched my wooden sleeves in my IHs. What that does mean is that digger on the armored cap will take heat away from the chamber. What George accomplished was to get 'clicker' out of the...

The only thing that concerns me about the hot metal is the fact that you have to heat 'digger' to start with. Digger is a big heat-sink otherwise. Seems a set backwards.