Search results

Whatever devil applies.. Again, letter proportions are not the same as spacing between them. Find some literature that precisely states that the distance between letters needs to be maintained.

Playing devil's advocate here, there is no statement as to the spacing requirements of the logo, the website states: "The CE marking must consist of the initials "CE", both letters should have the same vertical dimension and be no smaller than 5mm (unless specified differently in the relevant...

I cant exactly ascertain. It sounds to me like the thermosensor might need to be desoldered to even access the bulb underneath. But as you say, without clear photos or somebody with big ass balls ripping theirs apart, its pretty hard to know what exactly is happening under there.

YLL is a hard nut to crack on this. I have been told that the bulb is not soldered, but some (isolated) delicate wiring for the thermosensor is, and that is why he doesnt want people yanking it apart, because its a tricky assembly (implicitly). I'm not really willing to pull mine apart to...

From the internal diagram, the air appears to pass first through glass, then by food grade silicone, then the ceramic bulb socket, then the bulb. All wiring and solder for the thermosensor is isolated from the airpath according to YLL. I'm not overly concerned, but thats absolutely your call...

No offence personally, I have loved ones afflicted by bad OCD/Germaphobia and I just felt compelled to speak. I appreciate your response, thank you.

Yeah, you can fit a thin tool down around the side of it, I just tried it. @YLLVAPE OFFICAL: Some knurling on the articulating piece that holds the glass is a great suggestion by @Goatts. EDIT: Unfortunately, I have to agree with @Texus. Reading the constant, hyper-critical, quick-to-accuse...

OCD is a very real condition and a mental prison for some. You'd do well not to belittle people over it.

Totally fair and tbh you've got me a little curious about the profile. Ill try it out and report back.

It would, no problem, but I fail to see why anybody does whole nugs, kind of goes against efficiency.

Oh for sure, easy. Just slide a tool down the center of the mouthpiece and raise it up.

I spent my first evening with Angus last night and the first thing I'll say, is this device can fuck, and fuck hard. I'm personally finding performance without the dosing caps to be much better than with them; clouds off the hop rather than whispy pulls as you wait for it to bring the extra...

The top screws? There could be a dab of threadlocker on the screws to discourage folks from trying to open it. Bit of heat will break that; hold a solder gun to the screw for a minute or so, should come out easy. EDIT: The top screws are T5 size Torx (not the tamperproof type, standard...

There are many valid reasons not to cheap out on 18650 battery cells.

Thats where I got mine yep, just shipped this morning. CP says next Tues for delivery... god willing.. 🙏

Multiple reports from owners here now that the battery heating is a non-issue. I have one otw, I'll help confirm or deny in a few days.

Got the go ahead from Mike to post this internal diagram of the Angus, which may answer some people's questions regarding the airpath, bulb and ball placement, etc. And just as a reminder, Angus will be available for order in Canada at soothingvapours.ca starting next week...

Actually yeah, I've managed to heat Dani with my Apollo II with the glass cylinder removed; it's not great but it works if it's in there long enough. I misspoke in that citation, as well, Dani's tip and cap are 316SS, not 304.

CLR will clean the cap like new. Just be damn sure to rinse it to high hell, after.

Yeah that doesnt sound right. Weird though because the ones I used are same dimensions (12mm od, 6mm id, 3mm thickness), and it doesnt take a screwdriver to get em over the tip. Also, while snug, they do push into the mazepipe no prob, though I do use a twisting motion in the direction of...