The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

popitup said:

How are y'all busting your screens? Are you on half-bowl?

I use a bebowler like below and scrape the screen sometimes. The CCD in my Dani didn't last one mistake in that thing, but I'm still on my first Tempest screen. Then I give it a toot toot to blow out leftovers. Once in a while I swab the inside and outside. Gotta keep your threads clean!

https://imgur.com/P4NUGEf

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I use the reload, sometimes I am probably over rough and push through (has happened once) but generally they just seem to wear out and get flimsy. I use a wand to heat and use a good combo of hash,weed, concentrate in it. I regularly do 4 or 5 basically back to back full bowls in an evening. I am lazy on cleaning and don't do that too often ( and never a full iso soak yet).

Genuinely not sure, I will say that the tempest does get heated up from pretty cold temps pretty regular (think ~-10C) and I tend to flave chase with it so temps are like 525F.

Maybe you got a particularly good screen?! Or its me/some of the factors I mentioned above. I do note that your de-bowler is more rounded than the reload, because the reload is also a screwdriver for the ball screen, could be a factor over time also.


Edited to add: I am on the full bowl.

Some notions anyways

Anyone wanting to join the club should check the site.
Seeing those green ones go up really makes me wish it was final already.

On the topic of a debowler. Call me whatever, but most of the time at my base/desk here, I use a Dynavap Cap to debowl with my screen at the half position. I'll use the one in the reload when out & about though.

Singularity Walker said:

Anyone wanting to join the club should check the site.
Seeing those green ones go up really makes me wish it was final already.

On the topic of a debowler. Call me whatever, but most of the time at my base/desk here, I use a Dynavap Cap to debowl with my screen at the half position. I'll use the one in the reload when out & about though.

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Just checked the website for fun and yeah, there's some available. I do just wanna double check it's still gonna need me to add the click discs later? I ask cos that place holder text has been there a while. And if it is the case still, I might hold off given its so close to the full launch...

Feyd2blak said:

I was smoking my reclaim today as well, entirely by accident. Had disassembled and fixed my VI so had heated empty right to the max to test the indicator, once done I dropped it in my heatsink to cool. Noticed a big puff of vapour coming out the mouthpiece, and a 2nd time, the air being forced through by the narrow heatsink. Gave it a wary and gentle taste and tasty vapour! The super hot air was roasting the reclaim in the whole unit, not even that dirty tbh, there was some gunk on the mesh. Could the Tempest be self cleaning....
Definitely trying honeybadgers technique though, looks well nice

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Just a minute! Are you suggesting ... the immaculate vape!? It's a miracle!

PossumMD said:

Just checked the website for fun and yeah, there's some available. I do just wanna double check it's still gonna need me to add the click discs later? I ask cos that place holder text has been there a while. And if it is the case still, I might hold off given its so close to the full launch...

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Based on what Brenyo said just this past Sat, no click discs still.

I don't have pics because I panicked and went to work to fix it as soon as I realized, but I just wanted to say be careful connecting the bowl to the stem so you don't bend the connecting neck of the bowl!

I've noticed sometimes the tempest cap would look uneven of I was spinning the Tempest and only today realized the gaps between the fins were much smaller on one side... Apparently it doesn't take an excessive amount of force to bend that section, so make sure you use something to lubricate the o rings with something decent before you reconnect it.

I was able to relatively easily straighten it while it was hot after emptying a load, but prior to that the bend had become significant. I have some concerns about the durability of that part over time if it continues to get bent little by little by someone who has no idea but this has really been my only complaint this far.

I used the grease that MH includes in the orders today after disassembling to fix and it works much, much better than saliva like I was used to with Dynavaps and the Revolve. Saliva worked great for putting it on, but was non-existent when it comes time to disassemble and I think that's where the bend was occuring.

Singularity Walker said:

Based on what Brenyo said just this past Sat, no click discs still.

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Sweet, I did look but must have missed it. Haven't been keeping up with this thread like I did initially, too many posts hahahaha (which is a good thing for Brenyo, should equal a good amount of sales!).

mcscruffy said:

I've noticed sometimes the tempest cap would look uneven of I was spinning the Tempest and only today realized the gaps between the fins were much smaller on one side... Apparently it doesn't take an excessive amount of force to bend that section, so make sure you use something to lubricate the o rings with something decent before you reconnect it.

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mcscruffy said:

be careful connecting the bowl to the stem so you don't bend the connecting neck of the bowl!

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I really don't get which part got bent or which o-rings should be lubricated to avoid bending?
Do you mean that a part of the stemtube deformed just from being hot during assembling/disassembling? Can you show on a picture which part you mean exactly?
Are you sure it wasn't just seated crooked thus looking offstraight?

666Honeybadger said:

I really don't get which part got bent or which o-rings should be lubricated to avoid bending?
Do you mean that a part of the stemtube deformed just from being hot during assembling/disassembling? Can you show on a picture which part you mean exactly?
Are you sure it wasn't just seated crooked thus looking offstraight?

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Think it’s the very bottom flange or lip that holds the first oring from sliding off. It is pretty thin metal there. If cap/bowl were to lean suddenly with force ..yea. That first o-ring of mine probably needs a swap.

666Honeybadger said:

I really don't get which part got bent or which o-rings should be lubricated to avoid bending?
Do you mean that a part of the stemtube deformed just from being hot during assembling/disassembling? Can you show on a picture which part you mean exactly?
Are you sure it wasn't just seated crooked thus looking offstraight?

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I rushed to share without getting some pics which sucks, but the space where I have the arrow drawn is where the fin was lower on once side from the bowl being bent. The two o rings on the bowl section just above the arrow inside the stem in that picture are what I was referring to lubricating with something better than water or saliva.

Edit: I am 100% sure it was bent. Once I removed it you could easily see the piece was bent. After my next bowl I emptied and got something to insulate my grip and it moved back with moderate force... Hard to quantify but it did not require much exertion to straighten again and can easily be done without tools. I did try to straighten when it was room temp first, but it was much harder and didn't move much.

mcscruffy said:

I rushed to share without getting some pics which sucks, but the space where I have the arrow drawn is where the fin was lower on once side from the bowl being bent. The two o rings on the bowl section just above the arrow inside the stem in that picture are what I was referring to lubricating with something better than water or saliva.

https://imgur.com/a/8r7kDMH

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Wow?!?

You are sure it had nothing to do with the little indents on the bowltube/connecting part of the stem not being seated properly?
It can look a bit crooked when these are not aligned and it doesn't sink in completely.

I mean ok, it's thin metal but i find it very hard to understand that you would bend the metal unknowingly and that you would just be able to bend it back into shape while being hot(ish)?

Are you the Hulk?

666Honeybadger said:

Wow?!?

You are sure it had nothing to do with the little indents on the bowltube/connecting part of the stem not being seated properly?
It can look a bit crooked when these are not aligned and it doesn't sink in completely.

I mean ok, it's thin metal but i find it very hard to understand that you would bend it unknowingly and that you would just be able to bend it back into shape while being hot(ish)?

Are you the Hulk?

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It's because I usually disassemble it when it's still warm to hot from my final bowl before putting it in an iso soak every few days. Pulling the bowl piece from the stem takes a significant amount of effort if you use something like saliva or water that will evaporate long before time to remove so the bowl ends up sticking in there with a ton of grip. The action of removing the bowl from the stem section while it's hot is where I'm convinced the bend is happening. I'm going to start letting it cool down before disassembling moving forward in addition to using something more appropriate on the o rings.

Hi,
Some questions about the tempest for the people that have one.
How is the air flow ? As thight as the revolve ?
Is there adaptator that work to use it on a bubler without the stem ? If yes, how is the airflow ?
What is the size of the bowl compare the one from the anvil ?

mcscruffy said:

It's because I usually disassemble it when it's still warm to hot from my final bowl before putting it in an iso soak every few days. Pulling the bowl piece from the stem takes a significant amount of effort if you use something like saliva or water that will evaporate long before time to remove so the bowl ends up sticking in there with a ton of grip. The action of removing the bowl from the stem section while it's hot is where I'm convinced the bend is happening. I'm going to start letting it cool down before disassembling moving forward in addition to using something more appropriate on the o rings.

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Sorry about that! It should go in easily without any lubrication if the stem and the o-rings are clean. It shouldn't take too much effort to pull out either, normally. Did you ever remove those o-rings? The one that slides into the stem first is a smaller 5x1mm; only the other one is 6x1mm. If you want less grip, you can also use 2x 5x1mm. Please send a picture of the bend if it happens again; I haven't seen that one before.

Also, try to lube the o-ring under the heat shield so you can push it into its place properly. There will be a new o-ring in the upgrade kit that'll make it much easier to slide it over later on.

Alligator427 said:

How is the air flow ? As thight as the revolve ?

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Yes, it's pretty much the same.

Alligator427 said:

Is there adaptator that work to use it on a bubler without the stem ? If yes, how is the airflow ?

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Any Dynavap compatible adapter should work, there will be more airflow

Alligator427 said:

What is the size of the bowl compare the one from the anvil ?

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0.085g ~ 0.15g / 0.5cc - 0.8cc

Hello, I see the tempest available now. Is the click now fixed, or I have to manually set it up? I am thinking of ordering one today if it is final or near final.

ljstavy said:

I truly appreciate the help guys! when looking at this device in the forums at first I was over in the Revolve forum haha then found this one like last week. when I first saw this forum and the 153 pages my jaw dropped haha.

i appreciate the help even if these topics get repetitive for you guys.


after watching that video my stoner brain activated haha now I wonder if using a spare dynavap tip to push those mesh screens in would be easier since the diameter of the dynavap tip is wider it evenly pushes the mesh screen into the groove.

it looks relatively easy though even with those mesh screens with the way you are doing it. It has me intrigued. I don't plan on disassembling mine unless the screen gets clogged but it's good to know it can be removed. I like long-term vapes like how my dynavap has been. this reminds me of a dynavap with the all titanium build which means it will last it isn't like a battery vape with non-removable batteries or other issues with some handheld vapes.

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Yea, I have the best success using a m+ to push the Tempest screen into half bowl place.

lluther said:

Yea, I have the best success using a m+ to push the Tempest screen into half bowl place.

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M+?
Oh! You mean the DynaVap tool for Tempest screen setting? Yes! A lovely accessory, I guess they were working in collaboration with MH on that, to get them out so quickly?

OMG! Just had that knock on the door, opened to find a stork with my bouncing baby blue 'pest all ready and waiting it's adoption and christening!

To quote the film:
"Absolutely badass!"

Thanks so much for such great and personal service from MH! If only all companies ...

Oh, I've not heard any mention of burn off's. Any advice before I put bud to bowl? Thanks.
Found the manual! Doh!

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Hmmm, that's concerning! I specifically ordered and paid for factory seconds - T'pest and reload. But these look nigh on perfect! Where are the marks and damage and such? I've paid for them! Outrage!!
(they are bloody lovely is what I actually mean, I could barely tell they're seconds! And I love the presentation stand for the mantlepiece! It looks like it could also be used as a funnel for the reload! )

Quick question slightly off topic, though not really. I have been cleaning the balls in my tempest along with the head, just by soaking it in ISO and rinsing it out with hot water. I see some suggesting that ISO may not be the best method of cleaning the balls and I have heard recommendations for something called Sugar Soap that I have not heard of before. Is this a high powered resin cleaner that I'm not aware of, or is it just another alternative that works about the same? I just bought a small tea strainer for pouring the balls into and cleaning them more directly, which I have not yet done, and I am wondering if this is better tool for this job.

No idea about that discussion - sugar soap? Last time I heard that name, it was for cleaning down walls to prepare for painting over, as I recall. No idea if it's the same thing, doesn't sound like it.

If you are using iso and not dismantling the head, one possible trick is to immerse fully in iso, preferably in a thin tube (rather than a wide beaker or similar, then in a flame free environment (including electrical items etc - flammable vapours!) and use a mug or similar sized container full of freshly boiled water, to dip the tube in and heat up the iso, if possible until it boils. This will make all the gunch and shite in there more likely to dissolve into the iso. Give it a few minutes like that, replace water if it cools too quick, then see if you can tell any colour change (for future reference, may indicate how dirty it was, and how much is removed, loosely) then drain as much out as possible, and replace with some clean iso and repeat.
The purer the iso, the better it will work. Try to avoid introducing water at least until you think you've removed as much crap as possible.
Personally I'm not convinced that adding water at the end will help any if it's been properly washed in iso (or another suitable non-polar organic solvent) since little of the reclaim is water soluble.

Caveat - all the above is without regard for the Tempest itself. It's just experience working in an organic wet lab. Dismantling the head will always be the most efficient and effective way, but an effective technique like above (assuming that method works fine) makes the hassle of dismantling rarely necessary for most people, I'd imagine.

But maybe wait to hear from those with actual experience cleaning it?

I got recommended torching the balls on a spoon to get them clean. Moving the spoon so the balls circle around while torching them until white clean. Worked nicely and fast, shiny white color results, like new. Feels they get white even faster if you give them a quick iso shake&rinse before torching. After torching I rinse them with hot distilled water.

Handling balls is very handy using mesh baskets like on pic below...

Finally managed to secure a tempest! Been waiting months, and I got the Lime Green Kit with a factory 2nd lime green reload gen 2 Can't wait. Can anyone speak to the shipping times? I'm from Hawaii.

I was very tempted to pick up one of those green ones but I decided I would wait and let everybody get their first one before I got my 2nd one...

Actually, when they become available I'm more likely to just get a second head so I don't have to keep taking it apart to use it on glass.

cybrguy said:

Quick question slightly off topic, though not really. I have been cleaning the balls in my tempest along with the head, just by soaking it in ISO and rinsing it out with hot water. I see some suggesting that ISO may not be the best method of cleaning the balls and I have heard recommendations for something called Sugar Soap that I have not heard of before. Is this a high powered resin cleaner that I'm not aware of, or is it just another alternative that works about the same? I just bought a small tea strainer for pouring the balls into and cleaning them more directly, which I have not yet done, and I am wondering if this is better tool for this job.

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I used to be a cleaner years ago, sugar soap is used in diy for helping to remove wallpaper etc. It's superb for cleaning, one of the things that's it's always been really good for os removing cigarette smoke stains from walls etc, I know that's gross, but if it gets that horrible crap off, it'll remove anything.

Anyway I'd long forgotten about the stuff and someone in another group reminded me of it a few years ago.
So now, if ISO doesn't do the job, it gets a soak in sugar soap.

I have tried a tea strainer as well, the balls had soaked in the soap for a few minutes and I then sort of rolled them around in the strainer and that did help, just make sure to do that above a container or at least a surface they won't bounce on if they jump out.
Make sure you give it a good rinse after.

Sugar soap comes in crystal form, which you mix up, I've never used this, and a liquid, which is a fluorescent yellow.
It's not sugar though. It's only called that because in the crystal form it resembles sugar.

Sorry, this is probably the most boring post here. I'll get my coat.

HaggisHunter said:

Sorry, this is probably the most boring post here. I'll get my coat.

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Or it’s a very helpful informative post. Thank you. It just doesn’t help the vas, now I need sugar soap, a metal tea strainer, and a selection of 2.5mm boro and ruby balls for science.

HaggisHunter said:

I used to be a cleaner years ago, sugar soap is used in diy for helping to remove wallpaper etc. It's superb for cleaning, one of the things that's it's always been really ...
Sugar soap comes in crystal form, which you mix up, I've never used this, and a liquid, which is a fluorescent yellow.
It's not sugar though. It's only called that because in the crystal form it resembles sugar.

Sorry, this is probably the most boring post here. I'll get my coat.

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Not boring at all (for sad sods like me anyway). Thanks for confirming I had heard of it and it's not dementia (yet!).