Recent content by gostavs

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    Killing zvs boards

    I mean the heating of the vapcap, it’s still a bit to quick from cold to click at 12.6 to 12V.
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    Killing zvs boards

    I may have got this sorted. The solderingiron was too weak I think, and generally of bad quality. The new station is digital and have 60W, and it was night and day in difference! Getting wet solders is a breeze now, it is so much faster. I measured all the diodes on the fried modules, almost...
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    Killing zvs boards

    i don’t know for sure :hmm: but the stock ones blows as well and they are rated for those voltages
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    Killing zvs boards

    Im buying the boards from china, no idea how to check if they are knockoffs. They are cheap so they might be? My replacement fets is: NTD5865 N, 60V 46A They are bought locally and have no indication of being fake. I noticed the last ones I replaced I had cold soldered, the solder iron is...
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    Killing zvs boards

    Okay thanks for your time and effort! I’ll order another batch of zvs boards and hope for the best with those. It’ll take a month for them to arrive so I’m getting a break from the IH projects for now. Maybe I’ll get a chance to complete either either a lathe, a forge, tools, or other ideas all...
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    Killing zvs boards

    Here’s todays build:
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    Killing zvs boards

    Yes 50c rate lipo can delinger som power! Rescued another board today, new fets and subassembly again. I installed a 10A fuse before the board to see if that could save it if it shorted, it did not. The fet didn’t explode to pieces like before, but still fried. But at least now I can maybe...
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    Killing zvs boards

    569w and 51A later the board is toast to say the least. I checked the surfaces and table with a metal detector to rule out nearby metal! Nada. Everything looks exactly like the first test. No components touching. Measured across several points to look for shorts, nothing. I barely...
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    Killing zvs boards

    And it was! This was the first test, I’m scared to push the button since it has blown so many times :lol: https://streamable.com/l77ej3 Amazing! I was stunned that it finally worked! Then I moved it, changed nothing else. Flipped the main switch, not the fire button, and...
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    Killing zvs boards

    Thank you, that was exactly my thinking the first 15 times. I thought Id maybe just did a little mistake here and there, so i tried to change the trace cut, move a wire/button/positive/negative, change coil placement/thickness length/turns etc. Still trying to do things different and be mindful...
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    Killing zvs boards

    Grid pattern is isolated, no other metal close by. I replaced a pair of fets with salvaged ones that had alright numbers on a “fried” board. It doesn’t fire, only lights up the led when fire button is pressed. Doesn’t draw any current at all. Will try another board and pair of fets tomorrow.
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    Killing zvs boards

    Thank you guys, you are the masters here. When testing them in stock configuration they draw 1.3-1.5A at idle. The coil with 10.5 turns draw >~5.1A, the 13.5T draws >~4.5 with the VC inserted. These links/pictures might work better: Here you can see the left fet has actually blown to pieces...
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    Killing zvs boards

    I’ve practiced a lot..
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    Killing zvs boards

    I cut the trace just below where the centertap wire is. I cut the trace through the copper and remove it so the white pcb shows. The caps legs go through the hole and is well connected on the other side. Fire button is added between positive centertap in and the original positive in hole. I...
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    Killing zvs boards

    Being an idiot is doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results. I’ve tried and fried the half pint about 20 times now, I guess I’m an idiot! Can someone spot something I’ve missed or fucked up? I’ll attach a few examples. They all have been tested in stock configuration...
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