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Thank you! Im with you and Im not done yet ;) I should probably have mentioned I live in Europe and we may have a different prices here compared to at least NA. Yes people can still buy the YLL or Wand, but with taxes, custom and shipping fees its quickly getting close or above 200$. Sad to see...

Its an induction heater made specifically for Dynavaps, but it would probably work with anvil and fmjs as well. Flip the on switch, insert your device and push the top button. I made a batterymeter that activates when the bottom button is pushed. The batteries are installed by the user. Thank...

Price will be around 200$ depending on what options are added. But I wont be able to mass produce them. They are very much hand made and I have a regular job and a family to take care of. I love making these so I will be doing as many as I can without it overtaking my other priorities. But its...

Thank you! I have not decided yet on weather to create a website or using existing seller platforms like etsy. I wanted to share it here and see what people think first. I have many other colors and new designs in the works, here are a few earlier test units, not the best finnish on some: edit...

I’ve been working on this induction heater for a while. It began as a simple diy project and kind of developed into a minor obsession. The idea was a compact, high capacity, and safe device. My focus was on build quality, user friendliness, repairability and more while trying to keep it as small...

Which cap and tip combo pulls the most amps from a IH? I would like to test devices with the heaviest combo

I mean the heating of the vapcap, it’s still a bit to quick from cold to click at 12.6 to 12V.

I may have got this sorted. The solderingiron was too weak I think, and generally of bad quality. The new station is digital and have 60W, and it was night and day in difference! Getting wet solders is a breeze now, it is so much faster. I measured all the diodes on the fried modules, almost...

i don’t know for sure :hmm: but the stock ones blows as well and they are rated for those voltages

Im buying the boards from china, no idea how to check if they are knockoffs. They are cheap so they might be? My replacement fets is: NTD5865 N, 60V 46A They are bought locally and have no indication of being fake. I noticed the last ones I replaced I had cold soldered, the solder iron is...

Okay thanks for your time and effort! I’ll order another batch of zvs boards and hope for the best with those. It’ll take a month for them to arrive so I’m getting a break from the IH projects for now. Maybe I’ll get a chance to complete either either a lathe, a forge, tools, or other ideas all...

Here’s todays build:

Yes 50c rate lipo can delinger som power! Rescued another board today, new fets and subassembly again. I installed a 10A fuse before the board to see if that could save it if it shorted, it did not. The fet didn’t explode to pieces like before, but still fried. But at least now I can maybe...

569w and 51A later the board is toast to say the least. I checked the surfaces and table with a metal detector to rule out nearby metal! Nada. Everything looks exactly like the first test. No components touching. Measured across several points to look for shorts, nothing. I barely...

And it was! This was the first test, I’m scared to push the button since it has blown so many times :lol: https://streamable.com/l77ej3 Amazing! I was stunned that it finally worked! Then I moved it, changed nothing else. Flipped the main switch, not the fire button, and...

Thank you, that was exactly my thinking the first 15 times. I thought Id maybe just did a little mistake here and there, so i tried to change the trace cut, move a wire/button/positive/negative, change coil placement/thickness length/turns etc. Still trying to do things different and be mindful...

Grid pattern is isolated, no other metal close by. I replaced a pair of fets with salvaged ones that had alright numbers on a “fried” board. It doesn’t fire, only lights up the led when fire button is pressed. Doesn’t draw any current at all. Will try another board and pair of fets tomorrow.

Thank you guys, you are the masters here. When testing them in stock configuration they draw 1.3-1.5A at idle. The coil with 10.5 turns draw >~5.1A, the 13.5T draws >~4.5 with the VC inserted. These links/pictures might work better: Here you can see the left fet has actually blown to pieces...

I’ve practiced a lot..

I cut the trace just below where the centertap wire is. I cut the trace through the copper and remove it so the white pcb shows. The caps legs go through the hole and is well connected on the other side. Fire button is added between positive centertap in and the original positive in hole. I...