Divine Tribe atty's

[PPN]

Yes, enjoying this V3 with large doughnut very much, best Rosin experience so far!

I love the pure taste of Rosin terpenes, it's so clean with these attys and a box mod, and I'm a newbie numpty with this stuff, can't wait till I get to grips with the settings, it'll be taste heaven for sure.

I also love the way low temp THC medicates me, hits my disability square in the face, without being too couch locked on CBD.

I'm sure the delivery mechanism affects the way the chemistry works.

This is by far the best ceramic doughnut atomiser I have tried, and have already retired my Dr Dabber Aurora.

Just wish I could get hold of more Rosin, damn UK prohibition!

For me the V3 is a lot smoother than the Dabstorm 2.0, can I get your opinion please?

 

[Actual Dinosaur]

New poster here, long time thread lurker. Just got my black v3 in the mail a couple of days ago! I'm a big fan of my v2.7, and I'm pretty impressed with the new design.

I did notice that my donuts also seem to need a pretty high TCR to function at all. Mine are also the ones with the new style 'squiggle coils'. Wonder if the two are related? I have my TCR set to 300 on my ipv5, at 390 degrees. I get an acceptable vape off it, but I can't help but feel my v2.7 punched a little harder. Am I doing something wrong? Turning up the temp, TCR, or wattage from that point seems to offer diminishing returns. Clicking over into Ni200 mode at 280-ish. degrees seems to wake it up a little.

I do have a DNA 250 mod coming in soon though, I'm really looking forward to tinkering more on that!

 

[fernand]

@Actual Dinosaur Sounds like you're doing things right. Yes, the squiggle wire on the big donuts is associated with the high TCR, even 300 can be a bit shy.

But I would disassemble the V3 and check the connection. Personally I don't like the screw-down, because
1) The thin lead on the donut is too easily crushed as you tighten the screw. It's really delicate.
2) The connection isn't all that great. The screws loosen.

One way to try to remedy this if you have some ordinary stranded wire, like lamp cord, is to cut a half inch length and pull out the individual little wires from the insulation. Loosen the contacting screws all the way. Stuff a few little wires straight into the well where the donut lead goes, and cut so they're flush, THEN stick the donut leads in, after GENTLY straightening them.

You have to see how many of the little wires will share the space with the donut lead. The idea is to create a fatter connection, less likely to cut the donut lead. Then tighten the contacting screws with the donut tits all the way into the well. Very GENTLY test that the donut is held in place. I've broken one lead off so far, just aligning it.​

If you don't have the wire or don't want to bother, just very GENTLY tighten the screws, pay attention to the magic point where it's tight enough to hold but doesn't cut/crush the donut lead.

The way the V3 pulls air in under the donut is not my favorite way. If you pull in air fast it over-cools the donut. So (ironically) you might have to toke slower.

Running the donut hotter can overcome that, and then you're quickly out of TC mode and into e-nail territory. But you can't see what's going on, or pre-heat before you dab to flash-sublimate the oil with a carb cap like on a Titanium nail.

The medium donut works better for me, it acts more like a bigger V2 with good Temp Control.

 

[looney2nz]

Yes, enjoying this V3 with large doughnut very much, best Rosin experience so far!

I love the pure taste of Rosin terpenes, it's so clean with these attys and a box mod, and I'm a newbie numpty with this stuff, can't wait till I get to grips with the settings, it'll be taste heaven for sure.

I also love the way low temp THC medicates me, hits my disability square in the face, without being too couch locked on CBD.

I'm sure the delivery mechanism affects the way the chemistry works.

This is by far the best ceramic doughnut atomiser I have tried, and have already retired my Dr Dabber Aurora.

Just wish I could get hold of more Rosin, damn UK prohibition!

1DMF,

I'm confused... CBD vaporizes below THC, and I've never experienced couch-lock from it.
CBN and perhaps a terpene (was it myrcene?) are related to couch-lock from what I recall.

looking forward to trying the medium cup and 10mm donut.

have been laid out enough lately, I wish I had one of the low-profile tanks with the ceramic donuts that I'm brain-farting on who was crafting these... cool stuff. But I've got my Herbie

 

[AVENTUS]

 

[divinetribe]

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check out my ebay auctions for killer deals!!

 

[looney2nz]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=172409212284&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

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Hey Matt!

It LOOKS like the new v3 kit contains the medium cup and the 10mm or 7mm donut?

I don't mind having a backup v3, but I DO want the medium cup and 10mm donut, so...
just want to make sure I'm moving in the right direction.

 

[looney2nz]

[/QUOTE]

yeah, I've seen this graphic, I posted a text file of boiling points some time ago.
when I scanned it, I saw this (so color me confused, I'm going to go check stuff out in a moment):

I tacked on the boiling point chart for most of the main cannabinoids (I think around 85 of them, mostly lesser cannabinoids),

but there's 400 compounds in the plant (terpenes, flavanoids, etc.)

Phyto-cannabinoids, their boiling points, and properties
(the vapor points are lower than the listed boiling points)

-=-=-=- argh!!!

I just discovered the fly in the ointment, oh my lord is it violently stupid!!!

I cruised through a BUNCH of 'reference sites', almost all these temperature charts are referenced at an incredibly low atmospheric pressure! (it appears to be some kind of Merck standard?)

almost a vacuum! and that shifts the actual boiling points SIGNIFICANTLY say at sea level...
ALL of this stuff needs to be recalculated, resampled and analyzed and a chart created that shows the actual boiling points at various altitudes. (water boils at a lower temperature when it is at a lower atmospheric pressure) The new chart should also include the temperature range that compounds vaporize at (using sea level as a real world standard)... saw one or two charts in my 'cruise' that showed a percentage of how much THC at various temps, which was useful and informative.

So the graphic chart above and the text chart below are both SEVERELY flawed
It gives A reference point, not necessarily a useful one.

∆-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)
Boiling point: 200°C / 392 degree Fahrenheit (Merck) but vapor point is 254° F

cannabidiol (CBD)
Boiling point: 160-180°C / 320-356 degree Fahrenheit

Cannabinol (CBN)
Boiling point: 185°C / 365 degree Fahrenheit

cannabichromene (CBC)
Boiling point: 220°C / 428 degree Fahrenheit

cannabigerol (CBG)
Boiling point: MP52

∆-8-tetrahydrocannabinol (∆-8-THC)
Boiling point: 175-178°C / 347-352.4 degree Fahrenheit

tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV)
Boiling point: 220°C / 428 degree Fahrenheit

Terpenoid essential oils, their boiling points, and properties

ß-myrcene
Boiling point: 166-168°C / 330.8-334.4 degree Fahrenheit

ß-caryophyllene
Boiling point: 119°C / 246.2 degree Fahrenheit

d-limonene
Boiling point: 177°C / 350.6 degree Fahrenheit

linalool
Boiling point: 198°C / 388.4 degree Fahrenheit

pulegone
Boiling point: 224°C / 435.2 degree Fahrenheit

1,8-cineole (eucalyptol)
Boiling point: 176°C / 348.8 degree Fahrenheit

a-pinene
Boiling point: 156°C / 312.8 degree Fahrenheit

a-terpineol
Boiling point: 217-218°C / 422.6-424.4 degree Fahrenheit

terpineol-4-ol
Boiling point: 209°C / 408.2 degree Fahrenheit

p-cymene
Boiling point: 177°C / 350.6 degree Fahrenheit

Flavonoid and phytosterol components, their boiling points, and properties

apigenin
Boiling point: 178°C / 352.4 degree Fahrenheit

quercetin
Boiling point: 250°C / 482 degree Fahrenheit

cannflavin A
Boiling point: 182°C / 359.6 degree Fahrenheit

ß-sitosterol
Boiling point: 134°C / 273.2 degree Fahrenheit

 

[fernand]

Another detail is that in a complex mixture like our oils, the boiling/vaporizing points are complicated by interactions. For instance, azeotropes can be formed, where unexpected boiling points of specific mixtures develop. For instance in distilling moonshine you can't separate out the last 5% of water, even though alcohol has a lower boiling point than water. It gets complicated fast.

So in reality, although we can sort of separate components by adjusting vaporizing temperature, it's nothing as clean as a table of individual boiling points suggests. It would take a lot of testing with lab gear to find out what ratios get vaporized at specific temperatures. And here we are struggling with even just accurately measuring our heaters' temperatures! Not to discourage anyone, on the contrary, it's small tokes that can make giant discoveries. But a good reason not to believe people who say they know what they're doing when they add in "natural" terpenes.

 

[looney2nz]

Another detail is that in a complex mixture like our oils, the boiling/vaporizing points are complicated by interactions. For instance, azeotropes can be formed, where unexpected boiling points of specific mixtures develop. For instance in distilling moonshine you can't separate out the last 5% of water, even though alcohol has a lower boiling point than water. It gets complicated fast.

So in reality, although we can sort of separate components by adjusting vaporizing temperature, it's nothing as clean as a table of individual boiling points suggests. It would take a lot of testing with lab gear to find out what ratios get vaporized at specific temperatures. And here we are struggling with even just accurately measuring our heaters' temperatures! Not to discourage anyone, on the contrary, it's small tokes that can make giant discoveries. But a good reason not to believe people who say they know what they're doing when they add in "natural" terpenes.

You provided a great example! I'd be happy if this new chart at least delivered up to that point, it would still be vastly more useable and relatable information. I agree it will take a bit of testing and following a specific methodology, but it is by no means impossible... I think it's eminently doable.

I defer to George Bernard Shaw here: "Some men see things as they are and say why.
I dream things that never were and say why not."

 

[1DMF]

Not been vaping lately, serious case of food poisoning from Lidl on Saturday and I'm still having to sprint to the toilet!

I never used to smoke when ill either, well till I gave up , even though I've had some shitty, sleepless nights, I still don't feel like vaping

As for temps, I'm not sure on the chemistry, I was just under the impression that concentrates were higher in THC and THC was at lower temps, I'm sure it's the THC giving me that trippy head buzz, that lifts me and not the body couch lock I get when vaping (or when I smoked) herbal dope.

Dabbing is definitely different and I enjoy the way it affects me.

For me the V3 is a lot smoother than the Dabstorm 2.0, can I get your opinion please?

I've retired my Dab Storm since getting this v3 (sorry vapefiend). The cup on the DS2 heats up far too much and unevenly, the oil gets too hot, too quickly, tries to hide from the heat in the centre and I just get a burnt flavour on second draw. The whole device get ridiculously hot and you need oven gloves to handle it!

It's ok for micro-dosing, taking only a smidgen of oil and only expecting one hit from it, but I prefer these doughnuts, which seem to give a clean taste for multiple draws and you can put it down, go back later and it still tastes divine, which is what I got from Dab Storm 1.0 - which incidentally were ceramic doughnuts!

So far I have purchased...

Dab Storm 1.0
Dab Storm 2.0
Yocan Evolve
Dr Dabber Aurora
Divine Tribe V3

...and I have to say these Divine Tribe v3 atty's are so far my favourite. I also am finding I need to set the M=300, and as mentioned, I'm a bit low on product, not just because I'm skint, but the current herb I have is one of the lowest yielding concentrate when squished I've ever had, which is really annoying when I have honed in a decent setting on my press

I assume all buds are equal when pressing in terms of 180F-200F temp and as much pressure as you have?

Perhaps I need to look at some rehydration system which I have seen mentioned something about Bodeva and adding moisture back to the plant?

Anyway, off topic for this thread.. so as far as my V3 Divine Tribe atty experience goes... it's the best rosin experience to date and am looking forward to feeling better and having more concentrate so I can start experimenting more.

Oh well a forced t-break is still a t-break and I better be sitting down the next time I try the DTV3

 

[herbivore21]

Another detail is that in a complex mixture like our oils, the boiling/vaporizing points are complicated by interactions. For instance, azeotropes can be formed, where unexpected boiling points of specific mixtures develop. For instance in distilling moonshine you can't separate out the last 5% of water, even though alcohol has a lower boiling point than water. It gets complicated fast.

So in reality, although we can sort of separate components by adjusting vaporizing temperature, it's nothing as clean as a table of individual boiling points suggests. It would take a lot of testing with lab gear to find out what ratios get vaporized at specific temperatures. And here we are struggling with even just accurately measuring our heaters' temperatures! Not to discourage anyone, on the contrary, it's small tokes that can make giant discoveries. But a good reason not to believe people who say they know what they're doing when they add in "natural" terpenes.

This is so true, finer and more precise fractional distillation can be achieved with appropriate lab equipment. Sometimes some chromatography may be enlisted to achieve the desired result. In either case, the appropriate equipment is far more sophisticated and finely calibrated for the purpose of getting the exact vapor temperatures/elution required than our vaporizers can hope to achieve with their nominal temps measured arbitrarily in the vapor path/heater.

The warnings against buying 'natural terpene' products from any old 'extract artist' are also important in the above post that I quote. Terpenes are terpenes, but you need to be sure that all that was added was just terpenes, and that the terpenes added have not been put into the material in unsafe quantities.

Edit: Wow, this v3 ceramic RBA looks interesting too!

So is this a nothing-but-ceramic design in the vapor path? Are there any wires in the vapor path (either beneath the dish between the external air intake and the bottom of the dish or in the cartridge?).

How does it taste compared to the w9tech KISS AC V2 carts?

Has anyone done full melt in one of these, if so how was it? Is this like most donuts (ie: takes forever to get good clouds and by the time you get clouds the flavor is not so good)?

If it gets good clouds in a reasonable time and good flavor throughout the hit and especially if it works with full melt, without anything questionable anywhere in the vapor path then I might have to try one out!

 

[Steven]

For those who Matt sent the revised medium and large cups, do you guys notice that the airflow is a bit restricted with the revised cups. I think the new cups have smaller lead holes and raised air holes so they are actually closer to the bottom of the donut than the older model. I didn't really experience any clogging or leaking from the air holes in the older model but seem to experience some clogging and leaking in the newer cups. I am getting a bit more lazy and have been letting the v3's gunk up a bit before cleaning. But since the air holes are so close to the donut, it has a better chance of touching the reclaim buildup under the donut. It also creates air restriction due to the smaller gap and it increases greatly once there is any reclaim. I notice this because I normally cover the v3 outer air holes up to 80%, but I feel as though air holes fully open is not enough air flow with the new cups

 

[Tranquility]

While I've gone through the thread for a while, I must admit there have been times I read the words as Charlie Brown hears the words of adults. (Wah-wah, wah-wah-WAH-wah-wah.) I just ordered the v3 and the dry herb (DH cost me $19.20 rather than the $24 listed.) atomizer. I have a DNA 200 device. (Hcigar VT133.)

What settings to I use?

I know there are many suggestions here. But, they always seem to hedge a bit and, to me, seem to have some fuzzy concepts not fully defined. Here's my current plan for when the devices come:

v3:

TCR 245
22 watts
350-400 temp​

Dry Herb:

this guy needs 25- 40w you need to hold the button down the whole time (let off before 10 second shut off on most batteries and press again)until about the third hit then start pulsing

Please use at 40w or below, let the unit heat up slow like a oven, do not broil the herb, it is the same concept.
​

Any suggestions to improve things before I try the above?

 

[arrr]

Can someone help me out. I have a v3 for a few weeks but I can't seem to get a large hit. I am using the eleaf 40 watt and am not using TC because I can't set the watt in TC mode. I started off at 12 watts and got good taste but little vapor and effect I gradually bumped up to 22 watts and still get little vapor and effect. the entire Unit gets hot but the donut is does not glow red. I feel as if I am wasting my bho. coil reads between .58 and .61 ohms Any advise?

 

[Steven]

While I've gone through the thread for a while, I must admit there have been times I read the words as Charlie Brown hears the words of adults. (Wah-wah, wah-wah-WAH-wah-wah.) I just ordered the v3 and the dry herb (DH cost me $19.20 rather than the $24 listed.) atomizer. I have a DNA 200 device. (Hcigar VT133.)

What settings to I use?

I know there are many suggestions here. But, they always seem to hedge a bit and, to me, seem to have some fuzzy concepts not fully defined. Here's my current plan for when the devices come:

v3:

TCR 245
22 watts
350-400 temp​

Dry Herb:

this guy needs 25- 40w you need to hold the button down the whole time (let off before 10 second shut off on most batteries and press again)until about the third hit then start pulsing

Please use at 40w or below, let the unit heat up slow like a oven, do not broil the herb, it is the same concept.
​

Any suggestions to improve things before I try the above?

Personally I think your initial v3 settings are good and pretty much what I use half of the time. Honestly, I say stick with those settings for a little bit until the unit gets broken in. You can tell once vapor really starts to form. Once the unit seems to be working, I really suggest playing around with the tcr. Try tcr 170-180. Or even tcr 235 or 225. You have 3 slots for tcr inputs so I would load tcr 175 m1, 235 m3, and 245 m3. You can play around and use 3 different tcr. I find tcr 245 to be heavy hitting with tons of vapor. I mostly use this to hit and clear out reclaim left in cup or for heavy hits. Tcr 235 is a tamer more flavorful version of tcr 245 and is what I use mostly. Tcr 175 is a vape hit with decent vapor but tons of flavor and smoothness. I use this when I have been taking too many heavy hits and want some smoothness

@arrr are you using temp Control or tcr? Try using what I just mentioned. Just note that there IS a breaking in period where not too much vapor is produced. I actually find super heating the donuts initially helps break it in. For large donuts I use 20-21 watts in power mode and ride the power and led the donut glow red for a bit. I say new units really start to shine after qtr-half gram

 

[fernand]

@OldNewbie I have seen enough variation between V3 big donuts that I'd personally start out with a lower wattage like 18 watts at first. You can then raise it if you're not getting a fast enough rise.

On my old V3 a TCR of 125 was good. But I guess they're all the squiggly internal wire type now, and on those new ones 280-300 worked for the two I tested with temps around 375. The medium are entirely different, 165 works on mine.

For anyone new to this, maybe think of the target temp as the cruising speed on the cruise control, the wattage as how hard the gas pedal is pressed by the cruise control to reach speed. And TCR calibrates the system, so if it's incorrect the cruise control will reach a higher or lower actual road speed than desired because the speedometer is off. If the TCR is wrong, the car is cruising, the speedometer says 65 MPH but in reality it's 50 or 90 MPH.

@Steven I'm not sure what you mean by Temp Control OR TCR. Temp control IS using TCR and target temp and a wattage limit to control how fast it heats to target. Wattage mode is a separate operating mode that doesn't use TCR or Temp, just wattage, is that what you meant?

Or do you mean another way to run which is to leave the temp at say 380 deg F, and fiddle with the TCR instead of changing the temp? A higher TCR raises the actual target temp even though the display still says 380. And a lower TCR will make it back off before it hits 380. But we're not all that accurate anyway. So whatever method works for you.

Personally I prefer to set the TCR so the display Temp is close to the actual temperature, and then I can adjust Temp, and leave TCR alone.

The main thing is that in Temp Control mode the mod does the button releases for you, it causes the mod to back off when it reaches target temp, and so it limits how hot it gets so you don't burn the oil. Even if the TCR is wrong, it will still limit, just at a different temp. That's better than just using wattage mode, which will keep heating until you release the button (or the 10 second time-out) (or the donut cracks).

 

[Steven]

@fernand I was asking @arrr if he is either in tcr mode or in temp Control mode. As in the temp Control mode for nickel. He just said he uses wattage and never specified anything else. I think Matt uses his v3 in temp control ni mode. Yea they both use temp Control, pretty obvious. I just call the temp Control mode for the different wired temp Control modes and I just call the tcr mode tcr for easier labeling. People love technicalities here

 

[thisperson]

Can you tell me what, specifically, T-C-R stands for. I'm still a bit confused.

Is it just a more general term for Temp Control only without the designation of wire type?

 

[waxdab23]

Can you tell me what, specifically, T-C-R stands for. I'm still a bit confused.

Is it just a more general term for Temp Control only without the designation of wire type?

Quick read and will answer all your questions: http://www.tasteyourjuice.com/wordpress/archives/10076

 

[thisperson]

Quick read and will answer all your questions: http://www.tasteyourjuice.com/wordpress/archives/10076

TY that did explain that.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

I'm back! Or am I?

@fernand, @whatavape, great work with the TCR research and doing your best to teach it to the newbs!

Nice to see lots of people new to the DT donuts trying them out. And for those of you that have tried several other ceramic dabbing attys, and saying you like the DT v3.0 more than the rest of them, that's great!

It's informative to guys like me who haven't tried lots of other ceramic dab attys, although I wouldn't expect any of the others to come that close to DT's performance.

But...to be fair to the others, have you run them in temp control modes like with the DT 3.0? Regarding taste, any ceramic atty, no matter how well designed and medical-grade, will make shitty, hot-tasting combusto-hits if run at a high enough wattage to make decent clouds, without TC. You'll either be button-feathering at high watts (still less vape) or sipping tiny wispy vapes with low watts that can't combust your oil.

Regarding the medium donuts:

I actually yhink the even space around the outside perimeter of you donut to the housing is a good thing. I think @Vape Donkey 650 is overthinking that situation. I have noticed with donuts in the past that crooked placed donuts with no empty outside Ridgeline
Causes crusting and easily lets loaded vape touch the side walls which doesn't get vaped. I vote to keep the empty space around the donut.

Steve, I'm torn on the gap in the cup for the mediums.

On the plus side, it gives you plenty of space to work a small dab tool in there and scoop up all the oil that's on the ridge and doesn't get vaped up normally. (cant reach this space as easily on the 13mm donut) Then you dump it on top of the donut, or I smear it around the outer circumference, and it will get vaped up, next puff.

On the down side, when I load up a 10mm donut, wether it's new and clean or broken in with reclaim, I can get usually ONLY 2 good hits (really 1 great and 1 decent) using modest loads around 20-40mg. But after those 2 hits, I look at the cup and I see a good amount of that melted oil remains around the outer ridge of the cup. Maybe 30-40% of what I just put on there.

So I scrape the ridge, put it on the disc, re-vape, get 2-3 hits, look down, I see more oil on the ridge, scrape again, repeat. Several loads after a cleaning, I can repeat this way too many times before the cup is almost clean and isn't giving vape. Load, vape, scrape, vape, scrape, repeat..... kinda of annoying.

How are the rest of you guys dealing with this? Maybe some of you guys are just burning / vaping up this side touching oil with much hotter, above combustion level temps? So the hotter donut can vape the oil touching the side cup? Or maybe some guys just keep reloading and don't care about this? Then your cup and donut can be immersed in a pool of oil...it will hit hard and repeatedly, but it's messy, flavor suffers and that leads to more easy leaking

But with the heated crucible cups on the horizon, like you said, maybe this won't even really matter soon? Either way, I still favor the mediums alot more than the large donuts, scraping aside. I like how you can put small, v2 sized loads on it and get big vape clouds with a quicker warm up time. The 13mm disc takes a bigger investment in oil to coax large hits (and more heat?) and much more oil gets caught up in inaccessible cool spots, which is another way of explaining how fernand calls it "inefficient"

Have you noticed the new donuts don't have a perfect circular inner coil? It's like a squiggly, hairpin curving inner coil for the new donuts. That's probably why it's so inconsistent? Or am I the only one that got these wierd new donuts?

Yes, it seems all of us with the black V3s have these presumably inferior donuts on the new kits. I didn't get any more white v3 kits with my last purchase. Can anyone that got a white V3 kit (not from the initial release) confirm if those kits have the squiggly-heater, high-TCR 13mm donuts too?

I haven't even tried using these new large donuts, but when I test fired one in VW to see it's heat pattern, it got cherry-red very easily, and on 1 side it had the squiggly circle coil, with one strand of that heater working to the other end of the donut. And that's it. The cool side of the donut seems to have much less resistive material inside and will have a huge cool spot on it if vaped with.

Aren't you guys using the high-TCR 13mm donuts seeing big cool spots on your donuts after use, like a small pool of reclaim or semi-melted oil will remain on the cool spot after use?

I'm on my third V3. Ordered white upon release, then black because I noticed it was new, then another black today because I just cracked the black base over tightening a screw maybe. I just looked back and noticed it chipped off. I have been using it 99% of the time without screws and just went back. I will start using less torque and continue using my band around the base of the atty. I use one of those atty rubber bands and learned the other day it's great at retaining the screws of they start to loosen.

There's so much more to state but I'm due here in a minute. This product has changed my life, literally. I'm 100% combustion-free since the V3 release and feel great. I can't imagine a daily routine and life any different. Thanks Matt and FC!!!

Doh cracked ceramic body on the black V3. It may not necessarily be your fault, however. I have 5 black V3s, and it seems the ceramic housing on them is much more brittle than the white V3s.

One of them, I removed the body screws when taking it right out of the box, (to switch to medium cup and donut) and i heard a SNAP crackle sound from the body. Took the screws and body off, and some black ceramic fragments and shrapnel fell out. It cracked off from around the screw hole on the bottom. Overall, it's still intact and holds the screw, but one screw hole is much bigger now, so I'll have to be more careful with this one...

Also, one of my black mouthpieces has a "polyp" inside of it. Like a big circular lump inside the MP. I think the glazing / painting process weakened some of these V3 ceramic parts. Also, the black mouthpieces seem more snug and tight with the O-rings. The whites were already tight, and maybe the black glaze adding ~0.05mm (?) more thickness made it too tight now? Speculating...

Careful here, lad, those tubes aren't 'plastic' but almost certainly PTFE (Teflon). Well suited to the job, routinely used in electronics. In fact the standard 'bench test' to be sure it's not thermoplastic (Polyethylene I think?) is to hit it with your 700F soldering iron tip. PTFE doesn't melt even there.

Yes, those teflon insulating tubes are also used on the v2.5/2.7 attys. Also, (steve) putting a lighter flame underneath one and burning it will not inform you if they're suitable to be used on these vape attys. The flame on your lighter is many-multiple-times hotter than your donut during regular use, and still alot hotter than a cherry-red donut. Also, we have a slight distance of separation between the semi-hot wire and the much hotter donut. My only concern for this tiny teflon tube might be if it's too close to the donut when it's being burned cleaned. It might help with the leakage issue, but somehow, I don't think it would be the best solution

Not that it really matters in a results oriented game like here, but you can restore TC to it I think if you bump up the VW level just a bit then lower the set temperature until you can go into protect mode before timeout. That puts TC active again, but hopefully 'a bit too hot'? You can then 'adjust' the displayed (target) temperature down and the TCR m value up as needed to reach say 400F?

Or not.

Yes, with all this talk of different TCR #s, this basic parameter is being overlooked, I think. I'm not the only guy that adjusts my temp with the same TCR #, am I? Using the 10mm donuts more now, I've widened my temp range, all the way to 370-430F (wider than 380-420 I used before)

The form or texture of my concentrates determines what temp settings I use. Using a different TCR # will just make my screen numbers less accurate while having to press more buttons to do the same thing.

I usually start at 390, but some of my dry crumbles were ripping especially hard at that temp, and I found I can back down all the way to 370 and still get very satisfying clouds upon a fresh reload, then I can bump to 380-390 to finish off that load before a reload. Most shatters and live resins are fine at 380-390, but some of my lighter, less viscous CO2 oils were making unsatisfactory clouds at 390 and 400 even. I think they're too slippery and fall to the bottom of the cup, even with my watt settings that are more aggressive than most others: 28w, TCR 220 for medium donuts. Some co2 oils don't bind to the heating donut that well, so I'm using all the way up to 410, 420F to vape fresh loads of co2 oil, then finishing at 430. Presuming those temps to be somewhat accurate, I'm reluctant to go higher than that.

And I must re-affirm what OF says: If you're on any TC mode, and the mod never hits "protection" and throttles down the wattage, you are essentially running on VW mode: a single set wattage for the whole hit.

If you have your temp target or TCR too high, or your wattage too low, you will not reach protection. If you actually like it this way, you might as well save yourself the fuss and just run on wattage mode.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

1) The thin lead on the donut is too easily crushed as you tighten the screw. It's really delicate.
2) The connection isn't all that great. The screws loosen.

One way to try to remedy this if you have some ordinary stranded wire, like lamp cord, is to cut a half inch length and pull out the individual little wires from the insulation. Loosen the contacting screws all the way. Stuff a few little wires straight into the well where the donut lead goes, and cut so they're flush, THEN stick the donut leads in, after GENTLY straightening them.

You have to see how many of the little wires will share the space with the donut lead. The idea is to create a fatter connection, less likely to cut the donut lead. Then tighten the contacting screws with the donut tits all the way into the well. Very GENTLY test that the donut is held in place. I've broken one lead off so far, just aligning it.


If you don't have the wire or don't want to bother, just very GENTLY tighten the screws, pay attention to the magic point where it's tight enough to hold but doesn't cut/crush the donut lead.

This is the main Achilles's heel of the V3. I've broken the wires off 1 medium and 2 large donuts by over-tightening the screw in the post so that it pinches the wire and makes it brittle and snaps off when you try to straighten it. I recommend to not over-tighten any more than you need to, and when removing the donut to clean and then re-inserting into the cup, use needle-nose pliers to crush the lead wires nice and straight again. I can't seem to bend them straight using just my fingers.

I like your ideas here, fern. Can you elaborate on your wires that you're stuffing in the post terminals to protect the donut leads? Not sure what "lamp cord" exactly is. What kind of metals would be good to use here? Copper, SS wire? Maybe even some of those volcano liquid pad SS mesh...can try to unfurl it and make a little pillow to narrow the hole inside the terminal post and protect the donut lead?

I was also thinking of a conductive metal "crush sleeve" that you can wrap around the lead or string it through, like the PTFE tube? But where can I actually source this? And if it wasn't tight enough, the donut can be pulled up through the cup or make poor contact if you're touching the donut when you're loading / scraping it.

Wrap the leads with a small patch of aluminum foil? But that's not conductive enough, is it? Wrap it tight with a super thin-gauge steel sheet metal?

Hey Matt!

It LOOKS like the new v3 kit contains the medium cup and the 10mm or 7mm donut?

I don't mind having a backup v3, but I DO want the medium cup and 10mm donut, so...
just want to make sure I'm moving in the right direction.

Have you e-mailed your boy yet? I don't think Matt will respond to your requests by posting them here. I hope you already solved this by now, and have the 10mm donuts, or they're on the way. The supply is limited but I hope he still has some of these to pass around, because most everyone agrees the 10mm's are better overall.

have been laid out enough lately, I wish I had one of the low-profile tanks with the ceramic donuts that I'm brain-farting on who was crafting these... cool stuff. But I've got my Herbie

You're not talking about this thing are you?

The herbie is cool for sure, but I don't drag my volcano with me when I'm walking down the aisles at safeway either

Edit: Wow, this v3 ceramic RBA looks interesting too!

So is this a nothing-but-ceramic design in the vapor path? Are there any wires in the vapor path (either beneath the dish between the external air intake and the bottom of the dish or in the cartridge?).

How does it taste compared to the w9tech KISS AC V2 carts?

Has anyone done full melt in one of these, if so how was it? Is this like most donuts (ie: takes forever to get good clouds and by the time you get clouds the flavor is not so good)?

If it gets good clouds in a reasonable time and good flavor throughout the hit and especially if it works with full melt, without anything questionable anywhere in the vapor path then I might have to try one out!

Nice of you to join us over here, @herbi! No one answer your ?s yet? Let me try:


1. in the "vapor path" is nothing but ceramic, stainless steel, copper, a bit of high-heat silicon, a nichrome wire, and some silver solder. Really, all that stuff besides ceramic is really peripheral to the air path. Only ceramics are really acting upon your oils, not the wire really, so this makes for the best flavor possible. Plus, all those other materials are not heated up nearly as much, and we know them to be safe for off-gassing at the temperature ranges we subject them to. That's why @divinetribe is trying to get this device tested and deemed medical-grade. Who else is trying to do that?

I really think DT donuts are the best device you can use to vape concentrates that doesn't need to plug into a wall, and it's the only device I use for BHOs

2. Taste-comparo to that, I haven't tried that one, but you can run a ceramic donut in that, right? So the taste would probably be about the same, if you can run it in temp control. I think many of us like the DT v3 because it is even more cloud-generating, servicable, rebuildable, and tweakable, even if we run into little quirks sometimes

3. Yes we've ALL DONE fult melts in them! That's what these DT donuts are made for! That super duper ice water melt that you make would sing and scream inside this atty!

Regarding warm up time, which I think you're referring to: we solve that problem by using a variety of high performing temp control box mods to control our atomizers. Mods made by joyetech, eleaf, and using the DNA 75/200 chipset are some of the best and most popular. The beauty here, is by setting a max-wattage to control the warm-up of the donut, you can choose between a slower or quicker warm up time.

Using a low wattage (for a medium disc) you can probably go as low as 10, 12w and get vapor, but it will take a long time to get to temperature. Or more moderate wattages, 14, 16w, the advantage here is that you will minimize the over-shooting of the max temperature, it will be a little more steady and fluctuate less, and might improve the flavor a wee-bit. Downside: it takes long to heat up And during this heat-up time, your oil may fall to the floor, and not be vaped up.

I don't favor those low-watt settings, though most users appear to. I favor a fast-warm up time, to make my donuts hit more like a "wax pen" I use 28w on the mediums now (I backed down from 32w) and it takes a measly ~2.5 seconds to warm up - I already pull vapor after waiting 1 second after the button is held down and I start to vape the light fractions before all the rest of the actives' jump into the vape stream.

The downside to a higher watt TC mode, is that it will overshoot the max temperature a little bit more, but we get overshoot with more moderate settings as well, there can be alot of variables, so I'm not sure how much worse I'm making this? My low-temp, high watt TC works great for me, life is too short to let your oil fall to the floor! We all might have alot less time now, due to what happened last week! Enjoy the time we still have and vape up my friends!

Can someone help me out. I have a v3 for a few weeks but I can't seem to get a large hit. I am using the eleaf 40 watt and am not using TC because I can't set the watt in TC mode. I started off at 12 watts and got good taste but little vapor and effect I gradually bumped up to 22 watts and still get little vapor and effect. the entire Unit gets hot but the donut is does not glow red. I feel as if I am wasting my bho. coil reads between .58 and .61 ohms Any advise?

This is the large donut here right? And are they the newer, squiggly-heater core large donuts?

I would just go ahead and run it in TC-Ni mode. Unfortunately, that's the only TC mode you have. It's a pretty crappy mod, IMO, very little adjustability, and a very slow "refresh rate" that overshoots temp protection very bad, every time, but it does work. With the eleaf 40w, just keep the temps very low, well under 300F. I've run my large donuts at 40w, it takes about 3-4 seconds to reach protection, and it's very reliable. It makes very nice clouds, but I feel I get bigger, easier clouds with the 10mm donut with the same amount of oil.

Edit: maybe I take back my suggestion of TC with the eleaf 40w and the high-TCR large donuts? It seems they need less wattage and heat up quicker than the "OG" large donuts. Might be a hazard to blowing them out in TC mode on the istick. But like I said, life is short, donuts are cheap and repleaceable now? Might as well give it a try, I'm sure it will vape better than VW mode. Start at 200F if you dare. But I would humbly suggest you obtain a more up-to-date TC mod, if you can do that?

 

[looney2nz]

This is the main Achilles's heel of the V3. I've broken the wires off 1 medium and 2 large donuts by over-tightening the screw in the post so that it pinches the wire and makes it brittle and snaps off when you try to straighten it. I recommend to not over-tighten any more than you need to, and when removing the donut to clean and then re-inserting into the cup, use needle-nose pliers to crush the lead wires nice and straight again. I can't seem to bend them straight using just my fingers.

I like your ideas here, fern. Can you elaborate on your wires that you're stuffing in the post terminals to protect the donut leads? Not sure what "lamp cord" exactly is. What kind of metals would be good to use here? Copper, SS wire? Maybe even some of those volcano liquid pad SS mesh...can try to unfurl it and make a little pillow to narrow the hole inside the terminal post and protect the donut lead?

I was also thinking of a conductive metal "crush sleeve" that you can wrap around the lead or string it through, like the PTFE tube? But where can I actually source this? And if it wasn't tight enough, the donut can be pulled up through the cup or make poor contact if you're touching the donut when you're loading / scraping it.

Wrap the leads with a small patch of aluminum foil? But that's not conductive enough, is it? Wrap it tight with a super thin-gauge steel sheet metal?



Have you e-mailed your boy yet? I don't think Matt will respond to your requests by posting them here. I hope you already solved this by now, and have the 10mm donuts, or they're on the way. The supply is limited but I hope he still has some of these to pass around, because most everyone agrees the 10mm's are better overall.



You're not talking about this thing are you?

The herbie is cool for sure, but I don't drag my volcano with me when I'm walking down the aisles at safeway either



Nice of you to join us over here, @herbi! No one answer your ?s yet? Let me try:


1. in the "vapor path" is nothing but ceramic, stainless steel, copper, a bit of high-heat silicon, a nichrome wire, and some silver solder. Really, all that stuff besides ceramic is really peripheral to the air path. Only ceramics are really acting upon your oils, not the wire really, so this makes for the best flavor possible. Plus, all those other materials are not heated up nearly as much, and we know them to be safe for off-gassing at the temperature ranges we subject them to. That's why @divinetribe is trying to get this device tested and deemed medical-grade. Who else is trying to do that?

I really think DT donuts are the best device you can use to vape concentrates that doesn't need to plug into a wall, and it's the only device I use for BHOs

2. Taste-comparo to that, I haven't tried that one, but you can run a ceramic donut in that, right? So the taste would probably be about the same, if you can run it in temp control. I think many of us like the DT v3 because it is even more cloud-generating, servicable, rebuildable, and tweakable, even if we run into little quirks sometimes

3. Yes we've ALL DONE fult melts in them! That's what these DT donuts are made for! That super duper ice water melt that you make would sing and scream inside this atty!

Regarding warm up time, which I think you're referring to: we solve that problem by using a variety of high performing temp control box mods to control our atomizers. Mods made by joyetech, eleaf, and using the DNA 75/200 chipset are some of the best and most popular. The beauty here, is by setting a max-wattage to control the warm-up of the donut, you can choose between a slower or quicker warm up time.

Using a low wattage (for a medium disc) you can probably go as low as 10, 12w and get vapor, but it will take a long time to get to temperature. Or more moderate wattages, 14, 16w, the advantage here is that you will minimize the over-shooting of the max temperature, it will be a little more steady and fluctuate less, and might improve the flavor a wee-bit. Downside: it takes long to heat up And during this heat-up time, your oil may fall to the floor, and not be vaped up.

I don't favor those low-watt settings, though most users appear to. I favor a fast-warm up time, to make my donuts hit more like a "wax pen" I use 28w on the mediums now (I backed down from 32w) and it takes a measly ~2.5 seconds to warm up - I already pull vapor after waiting 1 second after the button is held down and I start to vape the light fractions before all the rest of the actives' jump into the vape stream.

The downside to a higher watt TC mode, is that it will overshoot the max temperature a little bit more, but we get overshoot with more moderate settings as well, there can be alot of variables, so I'm not sure how much worse I'm making this? My low-temp, high watt TC works great for me, life is too short to let your oil fall to the floor! We all might have alot less time now, due to what happened last week! Enjoy the time we still have and vape up my friends!



This is the large donut here right? And are they the newer, squiggly-heater core large donuts?

I would just go ahead and run it in TC-Ni mode. Unfortunately, that's the only TC mode you have. It's a pretty crappy mod, IMO, very little adjustability, and a very slow "refresh rate" that overshoots temp protection very bad, every time, but it does work. With the eleaf 40w, just keep the temps very low, well under 300F. I've run my large donuts at 40w, it takes about 3-4 seconds to reach protection, and it's very reliable. It makes very nice clouds, but I feel I get bigger, easier clouds with the 10mm donut with the same amount of oil.

Edit: maybe I take back my suggestion of TC with the eleaf 40w and the high-TCR large donuts? It seems they need less wattage and heat up quicker than the "OG" large donuts. Might be a hazard to blowing them out in TC mode on the istick. But like I said, life is short, donuts are cheap and repleaceable now? Might as well give it a try, I'm sure it will vape better than VW mode. Start at 200F if you dare. But I would humbly suggest you obtain a more up-to-date TC mod, if you can do that?

I did indeed e-mail him, and they should arrive tomorrow (I think).

So are we close on the heatable cups?

Yep, I was WAY out of it when I wrote that and couldn't pull your handle out of my brain at the time, but that would be the baby. Wanna build me one?

p.s. 'lamp' cord, is multi-strand 'zip' power cord.

 

[whatavape]

For those who Matt sent the revised medium and large cups, do you guys notice that the airflow is a bit restricted with the revised cups.

I'm confused as to whether the large cups were ever revised. All of the large cups I have are identical. The donuts differ, but the 4 that came with my black v3s (2x2) and the 12 that came with my white v3s (2 from the first batch and two from the "new" batch) are all the same. I don't see a difference at all in post hole size or airflow hole size or location.

I have a DNA 200 device. (Hcigar VT133.)

What settings to I use?

I know there are many suggestions here. But, they always seem to hedge a bit and, to me, seem to have some fuzzy concepts not fully defined. Here's my current plan for when the devices come:

v3:

TCR 245
22 watts
350-400 temp​

Dry Herb:

this guy needs 25- 40w you need to hold the button down the whole time (let off before 10 second shut off on most batteries and press again)until about the third hit then start pulsing

Please use at 40w or below, let the unit heat up slow like a oven, do not broil the herb, it is the same concept.
​

Any suggestions to improve things before I try the above?

If you cruise back a few pages, I posted some of my settings on my Hcigar vt75. Just a less powerful version of what you have, but my settings should work for you. I'm happy to share my custom material profiles with you too, if you'd like.

Sorry that I can't offer any help with the DC - but I don't own one. I will probably grab one when the rebuildable version is available.

I use a modified TCR 176 or TCR 190 depending on which donut I am using. I have not tried the new large donuts with my curves much, though, as I am using the medium donuts on my vt75.

Can someone help me out. I have a v3 for a few weeks but I can't seem to get a large hit. I am using the eleaf 40 watt and am not using TC because I can't set the watt in TC mode. I started off at 12 watts and got good taste but little vapor and effect I gradually bumped up to 22 watts and still get little vapor and effect. the entire Unit gets hot but the donut is does not glow red. I feel as if I am wasting my bho. coil reads between .58 and .61 ohms Any advise?

I bought the iStick tc40w from Matt on eBay with one of the v3s with the new squiggly donuts. I don't use it in VW, I use it in Ni mode. The old donuts required a temp of around 260-270F in Ni mode to get good temps on the donut of around 200C (392F), and with the squiggly donuts I need to go up to at LEAST 340F to see any vapor.

Steve, I'm torn on the gap in the cup for the mediums.

On the plus side, it gives you plenty of space to work a small dab tool in there and scoop up all the oil that's on the ridge and doesn't get vaped up normally. (cant reach this space as easily on the 13mm donut) Then you dump it on top of the donut, or I smear it around the outer circumference, and it will get vaped up, next puff.

On the down side, when I load up a 10mm donut, wether it's new and clean or broken in with reclaim, I can get usually ONLY 2 good hits (really 1 great and 1 decent) using modest loads around 20-40mg. But after those 2 hits, I look at the cup and I see a good amount of that melted oil remains around the outer ridge of the cup. Maybe 30-40% of what I just put on there.

So I scrape the ridge, put it on the disc, re-vape, get 2-3 hits, look down, I see more oil on the ridge, scrape again, repeat. Several loads after a cleaning, I can repeat this way too many times before the cup is almost clean and isn't giving vape. Load, vape, scrape, vape, scrape, repeat..... kinda of annoying.

How are the rest of you guys dealing with this? Maybe some of you guys are just burning / vaping up this side touching oil with much hotter, above combustion level temps? So the hotter donut can vape the oil touching the side cup? Or maybe some guys just keep reloading and don't care about this? Then your cup and donut can be immersed in a pool of oil...it will hit hard and repeatedly, but it's messy, flavor suffers and that leads to more easy leaking

I am also noticing this exact issue. 2-3 hits on a fresh load, then it needs more. Believe it or not, I am just loading more. On a clean donut, I load 4-5 loads of 0.05g, or around 1/4g taking my 2-3 good hits on each load. Then, each load after this gives 5-10 good hits. Essentially I am letting this corner buildup grow just enough so that any additional loads are forced to stay on top of the donut. When I go to clean, i just scrape it out. The only negative I see to this so far is that I've broken a medium cup with my ceramic tweezers. One of the airflow hole lips cracked off.

Yes, it seems all of us with the black V3s have these presumably inferior donuts on the new kits. I didn't get any more white v3 kits with my last purchase. Can anyone that got a white V3 kit (not from the initial release) confirm if those kits have the squiggly-heater, high-TCR 13mm donuts too?

Yep, my two new white v3 kits have the new donuts. I got two v3s from the initial run and those are the only ones with the old large donuts (~.45 ohm).

Doh cracked ceramic body on the black V3. It may not necessarily be your fault, however. I have 5 black V3s, and it seems the ceramic housing on them is much more brittle than the white V3s.

One of them, I removed the body screws when taking it right out of the box, (to switch to medium cup and donut) and i heard a SNAP crackle sound from the body. Took the screws and body off, and some black ceramic fragments and shrapnel fell out. It cracked off from around the screw hole on the bottom. Overall, it's still intact and holds the screw, but one screw hole is much bigger now, so I'll have to be more careful with this one...

Also, one of my black mouthpieces has a "polyp" inside of it. Like a big circular lump inside the MP. I think the glazing / painting process weakened some of these V3 ceramic parts. Also, the black mouthpieces seem more snug and tight with the O-rings. The whites were already tight, and maybe the black glaze adding ~0.05mm (?) more thickness made it too tight now? Speculating...

If these are anything like the v2-alikes, it is not a black glaze. They are made of black ceramic, so to say, not just alumina, but alumina with some impurity (likely a carbon) to add the black color. I haven't broken a black v3, but if the center is black (is black all the way through) then this is the case. My mouthpiece end is seemingly made this way, but maybe @divinetribe can chime in here and help.

Edit: If they aren't black glazed, but instead black alumina, that would explain why they are more brittle. Any impure ceramic is not as strong. The eBay seller who provided my v2-alikes even noted that the white ceramic is stronger on those than the black for this very reason.